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John Clutch

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Everything posted by John Clutch

  1. ??? It's a model of a sheet metal intake. It's billet because that's how he made it. And you answered your own question, it has to do with pressure and area.
  2. The reasons why a blower works with 8 bolts is because the aluminum housing is thick and sturdy, where a sheet metal intake is not. If you ever seen an aircraft frame, it's made up of sheet panels rivited together, and the rivits are very close to each other. A sheet metal intake, with 30lbs of boost, will surely leak if it didn't have a lot of screws holding it together.
  3. Im a manager now, but a metal fabricator by trade. Most know Im new to this, considering its been 30 years since I built a model. So the fabrications is where its at for me. Im working on a 1/16 Charger and have been carving up the "lego" hemi block for a week now with a #11 and Im loving it! It might not be 100% correct but it looks better than what the kit came with, and Im pretty proud of it. I think alot of modelers enjoy making their own parts. Some might not have the skills or tooling to do what they really want, but Im sure thats a very low percentage of the community, which I feel a level 4 kit would be aimed at.
  4. When possible, I would like to use flat head screws to hold certain assemblies together that can be hidden later. Like holding radiator to the radiator support or something like that.
  5. Looking great Tim. And just for the record, your build and Pro Street's P/M build (and many others) are what inspired me to start modeling again after 30 years. Keep up the good work !!!!
  6. Any word when the website construction will be finished? Thanks Clutch
  7. Thanks Cato, I have a ton of dremel equipment and never thought of using the ball ends
  8. Im going to order some tooling, and I was wondering what you would suggest for countersinks. Single flute or multi flute? Thanks Clutch
  9. Thanks Mark. And its funny you mentioned the interior, because I just noticed that the seat bases doesnt fit the floor either. And you can still get this kit, so its never too late to give it a crack!!! Thanks Joe! Im having alot of fun with it so far. The planning and inspection on the kit will eliminate alot of last minute surprises, even though most of the kit will not be used lol
  10. Mocking up the motor location, I just realized just how big the elephant motor actually is. If I want all of the drivetrain within the frame rails so I can install a full belly pan under the car, the valve covers would almost touch the hood. I know it's a model, and I can squeeze everything in to fit and wouldn't matter, but I'm trying to hold real world tolerances for the build. And consider this is a b body with alot of room under the hood if you remove the sheet metal, I have a lot more respect for people who manage to shoe horn this motor into a Dart drag car now lol. Wow.
  11. I'm very happy atm. The firewall came out better than I thought. I lucked out and made it the exact height needed to get the door gaps right, without any preload. I'll add a little flash with a half round rod around the top edge. I thought I bought the rod, but apparently I bought a package of quarter rod by mistake.
  12. The top panel will also support the windshield and be the top section of the dashboard
  13. I have the firewall fixture made. If you plan to make a similar jig, for example to make a firewall with complex curves, make the jig a little smaller than your finished piece, and then apply pressure on the panel's edge, to force it into the fixture, as I have with good clamps and hardwood. The fixture should be built strong as overkill never applies to fixtures. Just make sure you have room to work around it. I will apply a little heat to the firewall to relieve some of the stress. A LITTLE HEAT. I'm not going to form the panel with heat alone. It will be braced until the firewall comes out of the fixture with its proper shape.
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