m408

Thanks guys for all of the advice and it will be heeded. As for running before you walk, as I return to this hobby after many years, I'm just starting to crawl. About competitions. I only compete with myself. If my next build is better, in my eyes, than the last one, it's a success. I'm a 74 year old grandfather with some physical problems that haven't allowed be to partake of the activities that I used to. This is a great activity for me. Eats up a lot of idle time and has the bonus of instant gratification.

Thanks all. I think that I will experiment a little on some scraps and see what works best for me.

About to embark on a big project, at least for me, and want to get things as right as possible. Will be a 32 roadster. I need help on the following: 1- Will be using an MSD ignition box. Have no idea of where the wires should go (didn't have these when I was doing 1:1s in my youth). Also, fireing order for both small block and big block chevy engines. 2- Proper carb linkage set up, placement etc. May be single or dual 4 barrel. Also, what recommendations for a support for linkage attachment to pedal? 3- Any sources for master brake cylinder, I'm sure that the kit wont have one. (maybe ignition coil also, don't know if I need one with this new fangled ignition box). 4- Any schematics, wire, fuel, brake lines, etc would be greatly appreciated. I don't intend this to be of a class that you folks build, but just a project that I can take a lot of time to do right. Gonna spend a lot of time with my rattle cans and wet sanding pads.

Thanks a bunch Aaron.

I would like to try my hand at a "non typical" funny car. Are there any plans available for chassis, cages, etc that could be adapted to other than the usual body types?

How about compatibility with plastic? Mix and match as in resin carbs with plastic manifolds or resin hood scoops with plastic hoods?

Just received some wire looms and carburetor linkage parts from detail master. Don't know why I thought that I could actually use them successfully, but now that I have them I'll try. lots of questions though. 1- Instructions say to "glue" them in place. Engine block and carbs are already painted. Do I need to scrape a tiny spot off to glue? And, what glue? 2- What gauge wire to use for carb linkage and how to secure it in place? This the next step for me in super detailing. So far, have been happy to just run plug wires and battery cables! I have seen pictures of the models that you all build and just can't believe the detail. I now use a 2x illuminated bench light. Am I going to need more magnification?

Dupli-color light blue metalic over Dupli-color primer. Also used Dupli-color clear. I can see where polishing a solid color would get a good result, much as on a 1:1.

Just getting back into modeling and can't believe the bitching about kits, resin or plastic. If you want some real agrivation, try to build some 1:1s as I have. Smoothing out a few extra mm of plastic or resin is nothing when you have had to match a 49" cad eleceric sun roof to a 33" chevy sedan, or sectioning and chopping a 49" merc sedan. The scratch builders will know what I'm talking about. If you are not happy with a product that you have purchased, do what I do, don't re-buy.

Hit my big lots store right after seeing this. Product wasn't there. Guess the school kids were on recess.

Thanks gang for the info. I may have to "un retire" to pay for all of the good stuff that I have found so far.

I know, I'm getting to be a pain with all of my questions, but just trying to learn from the best. Just finished a paint job. Washed the body, slightly roughed it up and applied three coats of primer with a 24 hour wait before wet sanding after each coat. Applied three coats of color. Again with a 24 hour rest period between wet sanding the first two coats. Finished with a coat of clear right after the last coat of color. It came out great. Smooth as my old bald head and shinny as a new nickle. Might add a coat of McGuires car polish. Why would I need to take the time and effort to use a polishing kit? Am I missing something here?

I stumbled on Hobbylinc.com by accident and now use it for most of my kits and supplies. Are there other sources who provide on line catalogs? I am interested in every thing from kits and parts, resin and plastic, to supplies and tutorials. I would assume that many advertise in Model Cars and have subscribed, but my first copy has yet to arrive.

Thanks for all of the help guys. Recommend beginner brush set, compressor and tank sizes, and regulator? Remember, just starting with limited funds and no skill.

Not related to the model business, but to highlight the problems facing Revell and AMT. Years ago, IBM was notorious for eating up 90% of a suppliers capacity. Great for the supplier at the start, but not so good later. IBM would dictate thier own pricing and many small shops went out of buisness because they had no other customers.

Just getting back into modeling after almost 40 years. Have built a few plastic kits, not show quality, but good enough for me. I see a lot of talk about resin kits and parts but know nothing about this medium. How do they differ? Same glues and paints? better detail? Like I said, know nothing. Is there a tutorial available?

I would like to eventually get into airbrushing my models. I don't want to go to the expense of a full blown set up, double action gun, compressor, etc.. until I can become proficient at it, or not. I have seen some inexpensive starter kits for around $30.00. They use canned air supplies. Limited nozzles and jars. Worth a try?

Just a couple of ideas from a not so advanced builder. 1- As has been said, use the brushes for little parts. Spray cans aren't tough. If I can use them, anyone can. 2- Since the steps needed to do a decent paint job are so time consuming, as in drying time between coats, I try to get the body work and first coat of paint/primer on before I do anything else. Keeps the build going instead of watching paint dry. This also keeps me from getting antsy and rushing the paint steps.

Many thanks to all of you. I don't expect my models to ever be show quality but I know that now, they will be a little bit better. Hehe...my friends already think that I'm a bloody artist with my models (little do they know) wait until they see my new paint jobs.

Great tip, thanks.

Thanks, going back to the "good old days" when building 1:1 street rods, would shoot a coat of primer, drive the car for a week, wet sand, shoot another coat, drive wet sand etc again, repeat as required. Sounds like the same holds true for plastic models.

Thanks Bob, got 51 spoons from the dollor store, will try some different schemes.

I've been out of this for a good many years now and need some basic spray can painting help. I have some Dupli-color primer and clear coat along with Tamiya colors. Questions. 1- Are they compatible? 2- If so, how many coats of primer and "wet sand" between coats? If so, what grit? 3- How many coats of color? Again wetsanding between coats? 4- Clear coat finish. I have heard about applying clear coat right after last color coat to even the surface. Also heard about waiting until last color coat is dry before clear coating. Your thoughts? 5- Using Tamiya #TS-54 as color on one model. It is a light blue metalic. I would like a bit more depth. Would a coat of flat black over the primer do it? 6- Have some Testors spray enamel. Is this compatible with the Dupli-color? I know, lots of questions but I have seen some of you guys work and want to get as close as possible without the skills or expense of air brushing. Must be a bunch of forks out there eith the same questions but to shy to ask.

I think that I got it Ken, thanks. Now if I could only figure out how to bond metal wire to plastic.

Model shop paint cans are way over priced, at lease in my mind. I keep seeing people refer to "wally world" paints. I assume they are refering to Walmart. Are other sources, like OSH, auto parts stores, etc. workable? Do they have to be plastic specific? I know not mix enamals and laquers, but how about brands? Krylon and ??? etc.