Anglia105E

Those photos of the Ontario plate ' Turbo 36 ' are nice high resolution images to work from Pat, and I was wondering if the Y-block turbo engine would have been part of the AMT kit, or is this an aftermarket addition ? David

Thank you Potaka . . . There are many interior fittings and furniture ready to go into their respective rooms, once the roof structure has been completed . . . David

Yes Paul, I am thinking that some landscaping would be good . . . This could be static grass, as I do have the materials and the applicator tool. Maybe some lengths of wooden fencing as well . . . David

I managed to fabricate a double bend in the downpipe for the side of the garage . . . This was done by cutting the tubing at an angle by eye, twice and somehow I got it right ! . . . The lower section was joined using super glue, which didn't seem to work particularly well with the Evergreen styrene tubing. For the upper section of the downpipe I used Revell Contacta adhesive and this did a better job . . . Harold had to bring out his ladder to get this downpipe sorted out properly. The downpipe joints have been left to set for a while, and then they can be given a coating of black marker pen, along with the next length of guttering. David

Here are some photos of the bungalow model, taken just inside the Velux window in the loft, showing the guttering and one of the downpipes . . . To make the downpipe mounting brackets I have used some short lengths of black cable tie, which is the type that has a strand of wire along the centre. David

These garage tools of yours in 1:24 scale feature a level of detail that goes way beyond anything that I have seen previously . . . You clearly have a good eye for this type of modelling work, and you are able to transform scale plastic models into something extremely realistic. These must surely be regarded as ' museum ' class pieces Charles . . . or even something higher if there is such a thing !!! David

I decided to reduce the depth of the fascia boards at the front of the gable end, because to me they appeared to be out of proportion and oversized . . . The reduction was from 10 mm to 5 mm, which looks a whole lot better . . . Once these have been painted white and glued onto the edges of the roof section, the process can be repeated for the gable end at the rear of the bungalow. David

The packs of Evergreen styrene parts arrived in the post today, and these include 3.2 mm half round lengths and also 3.2 mm hollow tubing lengths . . . I measured and cut a 6 cm length of white styrene tubing, which was then coated with a black marker pen. This process was repeated with a 5 cm length of white styrene half round, and after using a round file to prepare the top end of the downpipe, the two pieces were super glued together . . . You can see from the following photos that the downpipe is not yet held to the wall with brackets, so in fact there is nothing holding the pipe and gutter at all. The idea is not to attach this piping to the edge of the roof, because the roof has to be allowed to lift off completely at any time . . . I have added a photo from the design information by way of comparison with my photo of the actual model . . . David

The plan is to have guttering and downpipes (down spouts), and I hadn't thought of sewer vents . . . Do you mean like these in the following photo? The bungalow design that I am working from doesn't appear to have any sewer vents, unless they left them out for simplicity . . . David

Your figures definitely add a great deal to the realism of the diorama setting Anton, and I think you have achieved the right balance with the manager figure . . . David G. has made a good point regarding the concept of keeping the figures monochromatic, and using their natural casting colour or painting them in a neutral colour . . . As David has observed, the architectural models generally use this technique. Myself, I tend to paint figures as fully as I can, but the monochromatic idea has set me thinking along those lines too . . . David W.

Turning my attention to the fascia boards, and beginning with the front gable end at the left hand side of the bungalow, I first produced a pencil drawing of the fascia boards . . . This drawing was actual size, so the next step was to transfer this to sheet balsa using tracing paper (greaseproof paper). The pair of boards were cut out and test fitted onto the gable end, which are currently held in place with glue dots temporarily. Soon the fascia boards can be PVA glued into place, and then painted white . . . There is a second pair of fascia boards to be mounted at the rear gable end, but this is not the same size as the one at the front of the building. David

Looking good so far David, and the ballast inside the hull is a good idea actually . . . Here is a link to the Revell version of the Golden Hind kit . . . https://www.internetmodeler.com/2001/january/ships/golden_hind.htm David W.

After fitting the highest strip of ridge tiles, and also the longest strip, the remaining two strips of ridge tiles were fitted today, following some messy modifications. This involved using pieces of balsa as packing, to provide some rudimentary support for the final pair of ridge tile strips . . . All the gullies and ridges have been dealt with, and the roof structure is nearing completion. There will be soffits and fascias mounted at the outer edges of the roofing, which will be made from lengths of sheet balsa. Once these are in place, the gutters and downpipes can be added. Today I have ordered some packs of Evergreen half round and also some tubing in order to make the guttering and downpipes at some point . . . There is a chimney stack waiting to be fitted later. Considering this is a fairly complex roof structure in some respects, the overall result is pleasing to the eye, I think . . . David

You have your work cut out with that one David . . . What an awful kit, but if there's anyone that can do something with it, you are the man ! Good luck . . . and may she sail the high seas !!! David W.

Thanks a lot David G., and I am now 5 months into this project . . . The Rolls-Royce Phantom III project was completed over a 6 month period . . . David W.