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Boricua, That's a Beautiful cruiser. The color combo is stunning. I particularly love the wheels and the white letter tires in the back, blackwalls in front. It gives it a 70's flavor to it with a hint of performance, not just looks. Thumbs up! Thanks,

Hello, Back in the old days many of us included the date on the title of the posts so we could keep a project under the same thread. Now I can edit the contents of the post, but not the title. So my latest C6R updates still carry the early July date. If the title is fixed, can the sub-title (topic description) be modified? Maybe we can use that for dates. Worst case, can the date from the title in my C6R project post be eliminated? Thanks,

Small update: Modeling time has been so little recently due to my work traveling that I'm begining to worry about having this model done for the upcoming show in early November... Here is some little progress: The exhaust tips were too thick for my liking so I sanded them off and made new ones from aluminum tubing. The headers were painted MM exhaust and rust. Thanks,

Jamie, Welcome to the forum! I used to have that same problem when masking windshields and I was suggested to try BBQ lighter fluid. I worked like a charm! I dab a Q-tip in it and rub it in. There might be some streaking left that is easily waxed or polished away. It is safe for clear parts. Since in your case it is in a painted surface, test in a small area first. Also make sure the paint is totally dry. Hope this helps! Thanks,

Hello, I need this.... ...and the closest I have is this: Any suggestion? I think the Ferrari challenge wheels are the same ones in 1:1, as well as most LeMans and ALMS cars. If there is a street version, I can come up with something to hide the lug nuts pattern if needed. Pegasus has a similar set but I can't find it anywhere.... Thanks,

Can you mail them to yourself? Not that it is any safer, but I've had paints removed from luggage. Last time I had a few Model Master bottles inside a model box and it went ok. One or 2 bottles may go un-noticed, but 20+ will definitely show up at inspection. It's a gamble, but you may get away with it. Maybe mail half and take half? If you have any putty (especially Milliput white putty), make sure you DON'T take it as carry on. It may look like plastic explosives. Don't ask me how I know Thanks,

Hello, I've been trying for days but it seems to be dead...... Thanks,

They are all cool. I particularly like the import drag racer.

Hello Steve, Nice to see you posting here! I sent 2 inquiries online about some colors, but I was told you were having some computer issues. Should I send them again? Thanks,

Cool bug! I love the color... As for packaging and shipping, there is a thread about that topic when I shipped the blue Ferrari a few months ago. Basically, I tightly covered the model in flannel cloth, tissue paper and foam, inside a display case. The display case was taped close and centered inside a bigger box with bubble wrap and crushed newspapers. I think the only problem was that the hood and a wiper got loose in transit, but no damage. Thanks,

Stuart, Here is a link to a similar topic we discussed a while ago: Using an air tank for airbrushing The parts I show in that post are from Sears. Let us know if this helps or if you still need more information. Thanks,

Hi Len, Try this link. They sell top notch cars and the descriptions include great pictures. Pro Team Corvettes 1968-1972 Thanks,

That is a very cool truck! Nice job. Art has been working on something somewhat related (1920 Olds 1 ton truck I think) for a while now. Thanks,

Yes Jon, I actually used 3 straws and some straw "tubing" for rigidity. I plan to write a quick how-to eventually. Thanks,

Welcome to thew forum Jamie! You'll find a bit of everything and for everybody! That Hummer is looking good! I have done some work in diecast. My biggest concern has always been the big gaps in the doors hood etc. I add material to make them fit better. This is a diecast Ferrari 550. I stopped working on this when Fujimi released the plastic kit. Thanks,

Thanks for the update Andy. I'll try again in a few days. The product seems to be top notch. Thanks,

That's a great kit! Nice color choice as well! I finished mine a few months ago. My GT3 I gave up on Zero paints as I never got any response to several emails I sent asking about availability and shipping info Thanks,

I'm not into hot rods, but I think the front tires may be too big for that car, both height and width. (That would be a handful to steer in 1:1) I would rather use a bug catcher over the carbs but that's just a matter of personal taste. Thanks,

My sister lives in Chelmsford, only a few minutes from Hobby Emporium. Whenever I visit her I HAVE to stop there. It's a great hobby shop...

Hello, Detail Master has a set called interior junk (DM-2380) that has keys among other stuff. Many other kit specific PE sets also include keys. Here are some of my models with keys Thanks,

Personally, I wouldn't go with those starter kits for several reasons: 1: They are not consistent 2: You will not learn anything about airbrushing because they are single action external mix 3: You may get frustrated enough to forget about it 4: You'll spend a fortune in those cans However, you don't have to spend a fortune on a real setup. I bought a low cost airbrush (copy of a Badger 150) that is dual action internal mix, and a portable air tank with a Craftsman regulator. That was about 15 years ago and that is still my current setup. Only that instead of filling the tank in the gas station now I have my own compressor. I spent about $40 then. You can probably do that now for about $60 or so. Just my 2 cents... Thanks,

Hello, Resin is arguably the backbone of the aftermarket in this hobby. In short:Since plastic injection is a very expensive industrial type of thing, rubber molds are made from custom, modified or hard to find parts, and then the molds are used to duplicate the parts. The molds are filled with a 2 part mixture of resin and hardener. When cured you have a perfect copy of the part and the mold can be re-used. Of course this is an over-simplification of the process, as it is quite labor intensive. The resin is very hard and quite different from plastic. For starters, plastic cement does not work on them. Plastic cement works by melting the plastic on both parts and resin is totaly inmune to it. Superglue is recommended for resin parts. Since this is a very manual process, sometimes a bit of cleanup is needed. Parts may have some flash or some pinholes that need to be filled and sanded. Resin can be sanded, drilled, tapped etc. After the part is carefully cleaned, sanded and in primer, then it can be treated like any other part. It will take any paint etc. There are many companies (usually small, many times a one person show) that offer resin parts ranging from simple to extreme, form good to out of this world perfect, from cheap to the very expensive. Many of them are regulars here. We can write books about resin, but that's about it from 50,000 ft. Here are a few examples: From small parts like these Z06 air intakes from Perry's resin: to hoods like this from Time Machine resin: To bodies like this from Perry's resin: To complete kits like this from Aardvark and this one from Quick Skins to a million others. I hope this helps get your feet wet Thanks,

Hey! That's my neighbor's car! Cool color on a cute car. Thanks,

It looks beautiful! I know 1 or 2 resin casters that would be willing to do the seats, but that would take time. Email me if you want to discuss it. Thanks,

I updated the C6R thread but I can't find a way to modify the title to reflect the date of the update..... Can this be done? I can edit the contents but not the title. Thanks,