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Cool project! As usual, the engine looks great! However, isn't there an international law (part of the Godiva treaty) that specifies all Alpines MUST be blue? Thanks,

Hello, We have always heard that race cars don’t have show car paint jobs. From my experience, this is true. I’ve seen pro race cars with really bad paint jobs. I remember a particular IMSA GTP Jaguar years ago with runs in the paint you wouldn’t believe. However, that seems to be changing. Today, race cars are rolling marketing billboards. Sponsors want them to look their best, especially if the sponsor is the manufacturer of the car. Point in case: The C6R Corvette. While not exactly show car quality, these cars have decent paint jobs. I had the chance to look closely at one of the Aston Martins, and the door looked like my model paint jobs when I was 14 years old. The Corvettes, Ferraris and Porsches all had better quality paint jobs. However, they were still NOT show car or even showroom production car quality. I'm not talking about chips, dents or scratches, but rather orange peel, fisheyes and uneven finishes. This creates a dilemma in the modeler. This has been the center of many heated debates. Do you go for the best paint job on a race car? On one hand you know they are not supposed to be perfect, yet on the other hand, you don’t want it to look like a lousy paint job. Proper weathering on a race car is very hard to achieve. I’m going thru that now on the C6R. My reasoning is this: A scale model represents a car as you would see it from a certain distance. In order to see the “defects†in the real car, you need to get very close. But you usually see the race cars from a distance, and they look great. So, based on that I’m going to chase the “best paint job†path. After all, it will never be perfect and that is exactly what I am after, isn’t it? What do you think? Just curious. Thanks,

Hello, Inspired by Mark Jones and with guidance from him, I faced my fear of decals head on with SMS CF decals. There are easily over 20 small pieces of carbon fiber decals here. The logo and Corvette Racing decals are my own. This is the first time I successfully do my own decals. I also did all other sponsor decals I needed for this build (Klein tools, Katech, Hella, NCM, GCA, BBS, Michelin man, the 2006 ALMS logo etc) Anyway, after hours and hours (days) of "carbon fibering"..... Fully wired (plug wires, ignition modules electricals, fuel rail, air sensors, etc), cooling system plumbed, PE radiator, air hose to restrictor clamps, etc.. Still a few minor items remaining like hood pins and steering rack... Can you tell the difference? The box stock represents the show car. I'm doing the car as it raced in Atlanta 2006. Thanks,

OK, No more Mr. Nice Guy. Time to get serious. This is the last time you'll see the engine compartment "box stock". This, the belts and a crossmember in front of it is all there is in the kit. I already started hacking and whacking the intake for a correct racing setup. Thanks,

Hi Len, The C5R has the older style BBS that was used early in the C5R program. Those are the ones I have but the spokes are a bit different (smaller spoke split). That second picture is from the first C5R I built. That's what I'll use if I can't find anything closer. Thanks,

Jon, This is looking really Really REALLY good! I'm enjoying this project a lot! Question: Are those wheels part of a transkit or did you get them separate? Where did you get them? While not a 100% exact match, they look similar to the ones I need for my C6R. One more thing: Don't worry about modern cars not been the "cup of tea" of many. This hobby is about passion and passion is not rational. The "depth" of this hobby gives it variety and makes it GREAT! Besides, we'll leave all those old cars in the dust with our modern rides Thanks,

Hello, Sorry for hijacking my own thread, but are you Brendan Howden, the race/sports car modeler from the Cobra Colors gallery? If so, Welcome to the forum!!! You have to share with us your impressive work! Did you ever finish the McLaren and the IMSA 300ZX? You will love it here. If you are not, welcome to the forum anyways Thanks,

Gary, First of all, welcome to the forum. Second, there are no stupid questions There is no unique way to setup the equipment. The type and size of your moisture trap will help determine where to put it. There are big heavy glass traps that are better attached to the air tank's outlet. There are smaller "inline" traps that can be used in the airbrush air hose itself. I would recommend to put it just before the pressure regulator, and these 2 things close to the tank. In my case, I have a big trap at the outlet of the compressor and I fill a smaller portable tank. The brass reduction adapter you see in the picture came with my airbrush. I'm sure you can get it separately. I'm not sure if all airbrush hoses are the same thread. You may need to check the one you have to make sure. I hope this helps. Thanks,

Thanks Gregg! Let us know. And since you are so generous, do you happen to have the winning Lotto numbers for tonight? Thanks,

Boricua, That's a Beautiful cruiser. The color combo is stunning. I particularly love the wheels and the white letter tires in the back, blackwalls in front. It gives it a 70's flavor to it with a hint of performance, not just looks. Thumbs up! Thanks,

Hello, Back in the old days many of us included the date on the title of the posts so we could keep a project under the same thread. Now I can edit the contents of the post, but not the title. So my latest C6R updates still carry the early July date. If the title is fixed, can the sub-title (topic description) be modified? Maybe we can use that for dates. Worst case, can the date from the title in my C6R project post be eliminated? Thanks,

Small update: Modeling time has been so little recently due to my work traveling that I'm begining to worry about having this model done for the upcoming show in early November... Here is some little progress: The exhaust tips were too thick for my liking so I sanded them off and made new ones from aluminum tubing. The headers were painted MM exhaust and rust. Thanks,

Jamie, Welcome to the forum! I used to have that same problem when masking windshields and I was suggested to try BBQ lighter fluid. I worked like a charm! I dab a Q-tip in it and rub it in. There might be some streaking left that is easily waxed or polished away. It is safe for clear parts. Since in your case it is in a painted surface, test in a small area first. Also make sure the paint is totally dry. Hope this helps! Thanks,

Hello, I need this.... ...and the closest I have is this: Any suggestion? I think the Ferrari challenge wheels are the same ones in 1:1, as well as most LeMans and ALMS cars. If there is a street version, I can come up with something to hide the lug nuts pattern if needed. Pegasus has a similar set but I can't find it anywhere.... Thanks,

Can you mail them to yourself? Not that it is any safer, but I've had paints removed from luggage. Last time I had a few Model Master bottles inside a model box and it went ok. One or 2 bottles may go un-noticed, but 20+ will definitely show up at inspection. It's a gamble, but you may get away with it. Maybe mail half and take half? If you have any putty (especially Milliput white putty), make sure you DON'T take it as carry on. It may look like plastic explosives. Don't ask me how I know Thanks,

Hello, I've been trying for days but it seems to be dead...... Thanks,

They are all cool. I particularly like the import drag racer.

Hello Steve, Nice to see you posting here! I sent 2 inquiries online about some colors, but I was told you were having some computer issues. Should I send them again? Thanks,

Cool bug! I love the color... As for packaging and shipping, there is a thread about that topic when I shipped the blue Ferrari a few months ago. Basically, I tightly covered the model in flannel cloth, tissue paper and foam, inside a display case. The display case was taped close and centered inside a bigger box with bubble wrap and crushed newspapers. I think the only problem was that the hood and a wiper got loose in transit, but no damage. Thanks,

Stuart, Here is a link to a similar topic we discussed a while ago: Using an air tank for airbrushing The parts I show in that post are from Sears. Let us know if this helps or if you still need more information. Thanks,

Hi Len, Try this link. They sell top notch cars and the descriptions include great pictures. Pro Team Corvettes 1968-1972 Thanks,

That is a very cool truck! Nice job. Art has been working on something somewhat related (1920 Olds 1 ton truck I think) for a while now. Thanks,

Yes Jon, I actually used 3 straws and some straw "tubing" for rigidity. I plan to write a quick how-to eventually. Thanks,

Welcome to thew forum Jamie! You'll find a bit of everything and for everybody! That Hummer is looking good! I have done some work in diecast. My biggest concern has always been the big gaps in the doors hood etc. I add material to make them fit better. This is a diecast Ferrari 550. I stopped working on this when Fujimi released the plastic kit. Thanks,

Thanks for the update Andy. I'll try again in a few days. The product seems to be top notch. Thanks,