ismaelg

Hello, Progress has been very slow. Modeling time is really suffering these days. I was out of town for 2 weeks and now I'll be out of the country all next week on biz travel. But at least I was able to finish the interior of the C6R. It may need a touch up here or there but it is pretty much done. Quite different from box stock I want to eventually build a box stock to display next to it. I like to treat each subassembly as a separate model in itself. So I feel as if I finished one Air ducts, carbon fiber, toggle switches, mesh nets, machined shifter, cool can top and steering column, wiring, plumbing, Motorola radio, steering wheels detached, racing harness etc etc The separation line in the dash is correct. It comes apart for servicing. Photographing this was quite a challenge since everything is mostly black. This means nothing will be seen once the car is assembled Keep in mind these pics are actually larger than actual size. Thanks,

Hi, Not much to add to Bob's excellent response. But I want to share something close to the topic. Regardless of what you use: rattle cans, airbrush, enamel, laquers or unobtanium, the key to a good paint job is NOT to move forward until the current step is as good as it can be, and making the next step virtually not needed. HUH? What I mean is that no step can cover for a lousy previous step. Primer will not cover mold lines or bad body work. Paint will not cover rough grainy primer, and clear will not fix blotchy paint. On the contrary, problems are usually amplified by next step. It is tempting to shoot clear or color before been ready for it, but at the end you'll end up either with a less than desirable result or doing it all over again. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt Another benefit of doing it right is that you'll end up using far less material. Hope this helps, Thanks,

Hello, Using PE (photo etch) hardware is the best way to go. There are many options available. However, you can also made them with thin styrene plastic. Cut the part in a bell shape and then drill a hole in the middle. You can "square" the hole with a #11 blade. Then you can either paint it chrome silver or use metal foil. That's how I did this one a few years ago. As for the latch (or whatever the receiving end is called), I make a wedge shape using a flat toothpic and paint it. Then I add some red paint for the button. Keep in mind this picture is many times bigger than actual size. It looks better in person Hope this helps. Thanks,

Great looking car! Everything about it is cool: the conversion, stance, color etc. The conversion looks so natural! Welcome back to the hobby! Thanks,

Simon, About time! Looking really good. Here is a picture I took of that car before the teardown back in March in our BBQ get together : Thanks,

Hello, As Simon said these shows at Racer's that Abraham puts together are very nice and relax. Just models, snacks and drinks. Unfortunately I missed it because I was just landing from Florida. Thanks,

COOL!!! The Modena is my all time favorite Non-Corvette car! Based on what you did in the F430, this one will be a knockout. Will certainly follow up closely. Thanks,

LEON!!! All bow to the master! I miss you oh my lacquer Zenzei master black belt..... Thanks,

Hello, You may remember my post a few weeks ago about primers. I tested Nason 421 primer and initial results indicated it was a good replacement for Plastikote. Well, I did more tests with it and ran into a problem: I used Nason primer on a Revell Cadillac STS-V uptown body to test how it sands compared to Plastikote, which is a beauty to sand. When I was going to sand it I noticed it lifted in a small area. Curious, I taped a strip of masking tape across it and pulled: ALL THE PRIMER PULLED OFF. I thought it could have been improperly cleaned surface, so I cleaned it and sanded lightly, re-applied primer and long story made short same thing happened again. It did not happened in the C6 Corvette I tried first. I tried the tape several times on the Vette but it did not lifted. Why one of them and not the other one? I have no idea. So the Nason primer is now quarantined until further notice. It seems it doesn't bite into the plastic enough to stick. We may now return to our regularly scheduled programming, already in progress.... Thanks,

Very nice! The color is beautiful! I'm glad you were able to finish it despite the earlier setback. Well done... Thanks,

Like others have said, Tamiya tape is my favorite masking medium as well. The stripes on this car, both the big and the narrow ones, were masked and painted over the blue paint using Tamiya tape and plastic bags. Thanks,

Just a word of caution: Invisible tape is usually stronger than masking tape. I used it once years ago and when I removed it, it lifted the paint below. You have to be very careful taking it out. Thanks,

WOW That's cool! That engine alone will make this kit fly off the shelves...... hmmm how about a resin Corvette body on that kit?.... hmmmmm

Hi Antonio, I went to both JR and JB, but unfortunately for us, they are both mostly dedicated to RC. No aftermarket stuff, just a few kits. I only bought a Revell Corvette kit and a couple brass tubes... Thanks,

Cool project Darin! Looking forward to see its progress. Thanks,

Thomas, Those are GREAT pictures! Thanks! I saved them all! I see many subtle and not so subtle changes between chassis #3 and 4 (2006 cars # 3 and 4 respectively) and the current 2007 cars (chassis # 5 and 6). I was out for 2 weeks but I hope to resume working on this again pretty soon. Regards,

Congratulations on a job well done!! I love this build! Seeing all you went thru, it is even more inspiring. I'm glad you kept going at it until you win. Regards,

Hello everybody, I'm back after a couple weeks out of town. I have plenty of catch up to do! New forum format, hundreds od posts, a gazillion emails and so forth. It's good to be back..... Thanks,

Alex, Eu espero ver mais do seu trabalho.. Muito bom!!!! O'brigado,

A 599 Fiorano, a 250 GTO and a 365 GTB4 Daytona coupe and I'll be done with my non-Corvettes model purchases....

Started working on the interior. The Motorola radio is as important as the engine Communications, telemetry etc. Braided Radio Frequency cable. Eectrical lines to an electronic box, electronics wiring out Machined cooler can top and aluminum handle. I thought about leaving that bright and shiny but accuracy won over and it is now correct flat white. The can was blue in the #4 car. Central tunnel is gunmetal. This is only the begining..... it's gonna get busy.... Thanks,

Hey Gerry (Exotics_builder), let me know if, when and where you are "dumping" some of that stuff..... :wink: Thanks,

Hello, The primer/clear coat war may heat up. I just saw today at the local Advanced Auto Parts a can of Duplicolor lacquer primer, ready for spray. This is part of their Paint Shop line of LACQUERS. The have primer, several colors and clear in 1 qt containers. They were about $21. Did I mention they are lacquer? This is something I'd like to try eventually..... A qt is a lot so a bunch of people can get together and split it.... Other than primer and clear I saw Chrome yellow, Deep blue, Hugger orange, Performance red and Brillian silver. Interesting.... Thanks,

Beautiful! You really made justice to a great kit! I love all the pictures, but especially the ones of the interior from the passenger door... GREAT! Thanks,

I'm loving this build Jon. Looking forward to see it finished. Before final assembly, make sure every bottle of ANYTHING is far away from it :wink: Thanks,