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execução incomum e excelente! muito bom! O'brigado,

Wow! It turned out beautiful! I can certainly appreciate your well documented efforts. While I was a bit disappointed in seeing so many issues with such a kit, it was rewarding to see you taking them as challenges and opportunities for improving it. Well done! Thanks,

Since I live in Puerto Rico everything is air mail. Apparently, nothing mail related is sent by boat anymore. At least here. Believe me, I've tried. I even contacted Fedex Hazardous Freight but I would need a special permit ($$$$$$$$$$$$$). I still haven't found a retailer willing to ship it to me. Thanks,

Hello, Like hunting for an elusive holy grail, finding a local supplier for Plastikote T235 has become an obsession for me. Sure there are other alternatives, and I am not going to stop building if I can't find it, but I don't give up. The search is part of the fun. After inquiring in many paint retailers, one of them requested it to the PK sales rep with no luck. I ended up writing an email to Valspar's customer service (Plastikote parent company). They referred me to a local PK manager who referred me to a wholesaler distributor. Long story made short, that simply does not exists in PR. However, I got a call from the distributor telling me they MIGHT be able to get T237. That's the same primer but in white. As I type there is a massive hunt going on now to find that case of T237 and the search for T235 continues Thanks,

The King is in the house! Welcome David!

Hi Len, That is not the case in this application. The Floorboards are carbon fiber but are coated. I'm not sure if it's primer or some sort of gelcoat. The core is balsa wood!!! Thanks,

Len, I can't find the pics online but this is what I did based on pictures, magazines, books and my own crawlings under some cars This can give you an idea. If I find the pics I'll post them. This is a C6 convertible (identical to a coupe) ...and this is the Z06. The main difference is that the floorboards on the Z06 are darker because of them been carbon fiber. The suspension craddles are magnesium on the Z06 and aluminum on the C6, but the colors look similar. I hope this helps. Will look for those pics online..... Thanks,

Hi Lyle, Sorry for hijacking the thread, but do you know if it works under lacquer like Cobra Colors, MCW, Rainbow colors? I stopped using DC back in 2005 when it lightly crazed the Revell plastic on a C6 Vette. Since Plastikote is now impossible to find (sob), I might need to get back at DC. Thanks,

ohhhhh!!! I like where this is going... Will follow up closely Thanks,

Cool project! I've never seen that car before, but that's not a surprise as I'm quite a Mopar ignorant. You are definitely on the right path. Great building so far! Thanks,

Four days? It takes me that long to sand ONE mold line, if I'm in a hurry Clean build by the way. Thanks,

RIMS: One of the biggest misteries of this hobby is why nobody has come up with these wheels, since they are widely used in ALMS. I'm building a C6R and went thru the same problem. There are some aftermarket Ferrari challenge rims that may look similar, but when you look close they they are far apart. Scale Motorsports is coming out with a detail set for the C6R that should include those wheels, but as far as I know the wheels are not available separately. And the set is over $100.00 !! Discussing it with Bob Downie and other experts I ended up ordering Fujimi BBS RE 19s from Hobby Link Japan. (www.hlj.com) I hope to get them in a week or so. While not a 100% exact match, they are the closest I could get. You'd need to deal with the 5 lug nut pattern. Beware there are some other similar wheels out there but they are too small. Hope this helps. Thanks,

That's cool. Great job on that. I love the color.

Great build of a great kit of a great car! That color goes very well with that car. Thanks,

Don't worry Dale, I should have been more specific. This is the particular case of car # 4. Car #3 (the one you did) uses de mirror image flag on the passenger side door, so are the cars from LeMans. I just happened to be building car #4 as it raced in Atlanta 2006. So you are good Thanks,

That's one of the best black paint jobs I've seen. Thanks,

I would recommend to use water base acrylics because they are easy to remove if something goes wrong. The paint needs to be dilluted. You can start 1/1 water / paint and go from there. (thinner if using enamels). The idea is to use a wide brush and kind of "lightly flood" the area, so paint will accumulate on the recessed areas. Let it dry and the paint will settle on the low area. Using a cotton swab or the tip of a paper towel you can remove any excess. Black is the preferred color for this because it adds contrast and depth. That's pretty much it for a wash. The most important thing is practice, practice, practice. Hope this helps. Thanks,

Hello, No, don't worry. This is not a political post and yes, it is the right forum section...... The C6R has prominent american flags on the doors. Each flag is in the correct orientation regardless of the side. But in the Revell decal sheet one of them is the mirror image. That is correct for the show car, but not for the race car. There were some choices: use it as is, make your own, steal one from another kit or fix it. I tried to fix it. This is the decal from the kit After careful planning and consideration: Measure once cut twice. Or is it the other way around? *GASP* Flip it Apply it as 2 separate decals and nobody will notice the difference! Hope this is useful. Thanks,

Hello, I believe in treating every subassembly as a model itself. Here is the C6R hood. Unlatched hood pins and about half an acre of SMS carbon fiber in the back. There are 11 separate CF decals in there. Yes, there is a yellow perimeter on the underside. What do you think? Thanks,

Welcome to the forum! That's an outstanding build! I love the AC Delco battery Don't worry about the language. English is a second language for many of us, but we all speak plastic and paint Welcome!

Len, Check with modelexpress.net and detailmaster.com I have purchased from both of them and they are both very good. You can also check with Ed Cervo in islandcollectibles.net and Kevin in Stradasports Hope this helps. Thanks,

Leon, No they are not I just hide them Seriously, I have to say I am where I am today thanks to you! My lacquer Zenzei Master! Thanks,

David, This is quite an IMPRESSIVE build. I'm enjoying the progress of it very much. Looking forward to see more of it! Thanks,

Hello, Body has been polished. I'll now work in the black trim plus all other million things on the body (lights,grilles,etc) before assembly and decals.... What do you think? Thanks,

Hello, That will depend among other things on how strong you need the bond to be. Each option has its ups and downs. Plastic to plastic, as you mentioned the best way is to scrape off the surface with a hobby knife and use plastic cement. It doesn't have to be a large area, just enough to create a bond. If that is not possible, you can use superglue. The advantage is that is in fast and strong, disadvantages are that it can fog the paint (bonding area looks white) and since it is fast, you will have little to no time for correcting the part positioning. Avoid using superglue straight from the tube, as it can be messy. I take a piece of thin wire, do the smallest loop in one end (or just bend it like a small U shape) and use it as an applicator. This will help you use just the smallest amount. Five minute epoxy is very useful as well. It bonds plastics and other materials and will give you some time for position adjustment. I personally prefer the clear one. But it requires proper mixing and you only have a few minutes to use it. But not every joint needs to be structurally strong. Sometimes you want to attach something small that doesn't require a lot of strenght. For those things, I use good old white glue! Yes, the same glue we used in school. I also use it for attaching clear parts as it dries clear. White glue is very safe but it is also very slow. By the way, never never, never, EVER use superglue to attach clear parts. Regardless of what glue you use, scraping the areas is always a good idea, provided it is feasable and safe. I hope this helps! Thanks,