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Chris, It looks very good to me! Nice color choice for that car. I like it a lot! Thanks,

Wow, that's very cool. It carries a big visual punch. Nice!

Fanfan, I don't know about that specific model but I recommend this website. It has reviews and technical specs of digital cameras. It is a great source for comparison. It also has customer reviews and more. It may help. DPreview.com Thanks,

Hello! WOW! I'm a slacker! This is my first completed Corvette of this year. This is a replica of the #4 car as I saw it racing in the 2006 Petit LeMans race in Atlanta. Somewhere along the way, what started as a simple build of the rather simple Revell kit became one of the most elaborate projects I've ever done! And there is plenty more that could have been done but I just wanted to finish it before it was an old car. Anyway, here are the pics and more details following at the end. I hope you like it. Ohh, one of the drivers just pulled in in his Z06 Revell C6R kit. Cobra Colors Velocity yellow, Fujimi BBS RE wheels. Several acres of SMS Carbon Fiber decals. Studio 27 PE set.My favorite part is the wiper I just graduated from decaling 101. I'm disappointed at the wheels. They look good but they are nowhere near what the 1:1 look like. I won't hesitate to change them if the correct wheels are available. Box stock except for these Modifications: Body: Molded in Naca ducts (rear) relocated spoiler brackets license plate area opened tighter door gaps by adding material to doors and body Reshaped exhaust shield aluminum exhaust tips opened front grille molded hood pins removed hood extended to the sides and front for tighter fit door handles reshaped aerodynamics diffuser scratchbuilt Photoetch: spoiler brackets, front grille, mesh in license plate area, race position lights, body fasteners, hood pins Photoetch wiper with scratchbuilt base Added tow hooks (front and back) Added acetate full lenght windows removed molded in air connector Custom made decals for: Klein tools, front and rear skulls, Hella, Katech, GCA, GCA emblem, NCM, ALMS 2006 logo, rear marker lights, Michelin, Michelin man, BBS, safety arrows Wheels: Kit's OZ wheels replaced with Fujimi BBS RE. Not an exact match (shape or size) by a long shot but the best I could do for now. Engine compartment: Fully wired ignition system heavily modified split intake plenums engine top plumbing and wiring custom made decals for intakes fully plumbed cooling system Added cooling hoses Photoetch radiator added hood pins receptacles hose clamps liberal use of SMS Carbon Fiber decals as per 1:1 Interior: removed molded in seatbelt and replaced with photoetch harness machined steering wheel column wired electronics on steering wheel machined cooling can top and handle electronics wiring added Motorola radio transponder with RF cables molded nets replaced air ducts added custom built Carbon Fiber center console with switches machined shifter Thanks,

Beautiful job as usual Jeff!

The Ferrari 250 GTO is arguably the most significant Ferrari of all time. A true automotive legend. Only 39 were made and all are accounted for. In the collector car craze of the 90's, they reached over 10 million dollars, and rumor has it one was sold for 15 million dollars. Not surprisingly, model kits of this car are bound to be popular. Revell Germany has just released this kit. I've heard that it is the Protar tooling but I'm not sure. If it is, the Protar kit is regarded as a great kit. The boxart is very nice. A beautiful painting with the parts layout as the background. Even before opening the box, you notice 2 things: First: 202 parts. WOW that's a lot! Then you notice Skill level 5. Yes, FIVE! I opened it and my first impression of the body was: "WOW! That looks nice". The white molded body has separate doors, hood and trunk among other things. The molding looks clean with only minor cleanup needed. I am certainly not an expert, but the proportions look good to me. It is almost unfair to compare it to the old Monogram ex-Aurora body seen here in red. Once you layout all the parts it doesn't look that intimdating. Moldings are crisp and the sprues come in black, grey, chrome and white body. The clear parts, the tires and the chrome trees are all bagged separately. The decal sheet looks very sharp and crisp. The instructions are typical Revell Germany. There are over 43 steps in this one The wire wheels are worth noting. They are multipiece and seem to assemble into beautiful pieces. There are other kits of this car like Fujimi and the Hi Tech Gunze kit. I can't comment on how this one compares to those, but it looks like a great kit worth of a good effort. Thanks,

Hello, A simple answer would be paint before assembly. However, there are cases where it is advisable to do the opposite. For example, a subassembly that will get a lot of handling, may be better to do after. Also, if ther is any filling or modifications needed, then of course you need to paint after like for example engine halves. Use the "before" as a rule of thumb, but keep in mind there are going to be exceptions. AND let the paint fully dry before handling the parts. That's one of our most common mistakes. Thanks,

Andi, This is a lacquer based primer. It can be top coated with pretty much anything. Lacquers, enamels, acrylics etc. It is always a good idea to do a little test first just to be sure, but I don't think it will be a problem with those acrylics. Thanks,

Marc is a regular here. Send him a PM. His handle is Marc @ MPC Motorsports. Saludos,

Hi, The exhaust tips were painted with MM jet exhaust and flat black. Sorry for the crappy "in a hurry" pics. I cut the plastic tips and made new ones from aluminum tubing. Other than wheels, tires and brakes this is most likely the last remaining parts in what seemed to be an endless project. Thanks,

Hello, Last chapter: 6 cases, 6 cans each. 36 cans. 4 cars per can, 144 cars. About 5 cars a year: 29 years supply!!!!! For the local builders interested, I'll take some to the Plastic Model Store (Luciano) so he can sell them. Thanks,

Those look like 19 - 20 inch Rallie (Rally, whatever) wheels. I think Marc Nellis was casting them but I'm not sure. Marc, can you confirm? Thanks,

If you have access to Plastikote primer, particularly T-235 Gray primer, go for it. That's my favorite primer. It sands beautifully. Despite been a spray can, it sprays smoothly and nicely. It is lacquer based so it can be top coated with enamels, acrylics or lacquer. There are other versions like T237 white and T236 black, but they are all basically the same. Hope this helps. Thanks,

That's cool. I've always admired good decal jobs like this one. Thanks,

Entering the home stretch! The Fujimi BBS wheels I ordered to HLJ are not an exact match but that's the closest I could get. Since the Fujimi BBS come with ultra low profile street tires, I will use the kit's racing slicks. But the BBS don't fit properly and bulge the tire out of shape. So after some surgey, I'm using the front of the BBS and the back of the kit's wheel (seen inside the tire) so the tire would retain the shape. The BBS have been drilled in the center so a racing center lock (still pending) can be added. By the way, the tires in the back of the pic are untouched, those in the front were sanded. What do you think? Thanks,

Very nice! I particularly love the tailgate lettering. It looks great! Thanks,

Dave, Welcome to the forum! When you mentioned tin cans and enamel I thought you might be in Europe. One important aspect of airbrushing is using the right thinner for the type of paint you are using. For example: if you are using enamels, you can use enamel reducer or hardware store lacquer thinner. But if you are airbrushing say lacquers or acrylics , you will need a compatible thinner for it. The best way is to ask for the correct thinner whenever you buy the paint. Once you have the right thinner, thin it to a consistency of something like milk. You can start 50-50 and see how it goes. There are many variables to consider like air pressure, consistency, distance etc. You can practice by locking some of the variables like say: set the airbrush at 20-25 psi and play with the consistency. You can practice on cardboard spraying closer, farther, faster, slower etc. Check for runs or dry spots. As you get more comfortable you will start doing little changes until you find the best setup for you. Once you get a hand on it, you'll never look back Hope this helps! Let us know if you have more questions. Some of us may be able to help. Thanks,

Miguel, That'll be cool! I'm a huge Disney fan as well. They were very popular whenever they came to our engineering school for recruiting. We all dreamed about working with them. Thanks,

WOW! Beautiful!

Although I don't buy many kits, maybe 6 cars and 4 aircraft in a year, I try to get them thru my local HS even if they are a few dollars more. For online I buy from Dennis at modelexpress, 1 or 2 a year to HLJ and some on Ebay. Any faster and Dennis would ship my order before I place it I have received orders from him in 3 days. Thanks,

Having it been another weekend I might have tried to make it.... That will certainly be great! Thanks,

Hi Mal, For this project I used Velocity Yellow from Cobra Colors. That's the authentic Corvette color for the C6R. However, the yellow offered in C5 and C5R is Millenium Yellow, which is a hint more "orangy" than Velocity yellow. This is Velocity Yellow and this conv is Millenium yellow. Not much difference, and it is even less noticeable in pictures. I haven't used it but I've heard people using Tamiya Camel Yellow as a very close match as well. Hope this helps! Thanks,

Welcome to the forum! That's ELEGANT! Beautiful build! Thanks,

Marcos, It turned out beautiful! Love the stance and wheels. Are you coming down to PR in Nov? I'd love to see it! Thanks,

Now it's finished! Love the setup as well!