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Everything posted by ismaelg
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Hello, I have to agree with Alain de Cadenet in his Victory by Design Ferrari show (DVD), where he says the Ferrari 330 P3 and P4 are among the most beautiful race cars ever built. There are several options if you want a model of this car. Model Factory Hiro produces several versions in 1/24 multimedia kits that are most likely the ultimate 330 kits. But at over $250.00 each, well, that's out of range of many builders. But if you are dead serious about it, that's the way to go. Fujimi, Heller, Protar and Union have released plastic models of this car in the past. I believe (But don't quote me on this as I'm not sure) the Heller, Protar and Union kits are related if not the same. The Fujimi kit is a curbside but according to some experts has the best proportions overall. Discontinued for a while now, it is not that easy to find. Fujimi has finally re-issued this great kit, but this time it is in white plastic. WOHOO!!! YES!!!! Like all current Fujimi releases, the package has a window showing the body. Included in the kit are decals and tire logos for BOTH Firestone and Good Year The photoetch parts are very nice and there is also templates and material for the belts. The wheels are in a darkish golden color. The sexy body looks to be very accurate. The rest of the kit is typical Fujimi. Past building reviews are very good. My intention is to build mine as the Ecurie Belge yellow car.... Thanks,
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Mercedes CLK-GTR Research/Info?
ismaelg replied to sledwood's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Hi Edward, Welcome to the forum! I did a google search and came up with quite a few hits. Are you loking for something specific? Here is an example of the links I found: http://www.autosalon-singen.de/Katalogfahr...p;languageID=GB http://www.autozine.org/strange_car/strange_40.htm http://www.allsportauto.com/english/merced...ace_version.php http://www.supercars.net/Search2?INPUT=clk...searchType=cars And of course: Something that made this car famous (or notorious): Going airborne at LeMans.... I hope this helps. Looking forward to see your work! Thanks, -
Clear Coat Question
ismaelg replied to Bruce Poage's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Do you have access to Tamiya acrylic clear (jar) and an airbrush? That's an alternate route. The problem with enamel clear is that it usually yellows over time. Enamel or acrylic over lacquer is not a problem. Lacquer over either one of those is a no-no. Thanks, -
Don't get me wrong. I hate 23" wheels in the 1:1 world as well. But in this case, they are 23 inches in 1/25 scale. When they are used in 1/24 scale they "look" more like 20s or so, even if by measurement they are 21 inches in 1/24. It's a matter of balancing the look and filling big wheel wells. These are 23 inches Phat Daddies: But in this big car they look the right size. In my mind, a high performance wheel in 1:1 can be up to 19 inches. 20 is borderline and more than that is just "bling". But in scale it is more about the overall look and balance. Thanks,
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Alex, I had seen some of the in-progress pictures of your work on this project. To say it is inspiring is an understatement. As a Ferrari lover myself: THANK YOU! Can't come up with any other words....
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I don't think I showed this before. The first body mod was to get rid on the molded grille. That tooth near the center is gone now. Wrapping up the body mods, the hood was also enlarged to fit snugly. Instead of adding material to one side, I added thin strips on both sides to keep it centered. It fits much better now. Notice that the molded hood pins are no longer there. I think we are getting closer to final block sanding and painting!!!!! WOHOO!! Thanks,
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Cool! If the Virage (or the Vantage for that matter) are 23" like the Phat Daddies, I see them under a Ferrari 599 Fiorano..... :wink: I used the Phat Daddies in my Ferrari 612 Scag with meatier tires and they fill the wheel well very nicely..... Thanks,
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Thank you very much Peter! I had a lot of fun writing it. I'm working on a few more. Yes, I'm very passionate about it Thanks,
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The other side had the same work done to reduce the gap at the top front of the door: Like Bill Geary would say: "Ahhhhhh That looks much better now..." Thanks,
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Looking good Efrain! Orange is a great color for that car.....
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Now WAIT A MINUTE! 8 hours? I am doing that kit in a similar color scheme as a "QUICK" build as well. It took me only a week to have the body painted but as Einstein said: It's all relative :wink: I would have never thought of those wheels for that car but it looks interesting. As usual your quick jobs come out looking great. I sure hope mine comes out that good. Thanks,
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Dale, yours is absolutely spectacular! I hope mine can get close to yours. Here is a bit more progress: Interestingly, the other side is not as bad....... See you next week! Thanks,
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I'm not an expert in motorcycles but I think there are 2 ways of doing it: Cutting the top frame tube right behind the fork support tube (vertical) and cut a relief in the bottom tube so the fork can be tilted back and increase the angle. OR, what I did in mine: I did not touch the frame. I did new fork support brackets and the lower one extends a bit more than the top one Keep in mind when you change the angle, the lenght of the fork may need to be adjusted as well to keep the frame level. I hope this helps! More pictures here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3224 Thanks,
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Panel lines deepened. Sink marks on hood fixed. First color coat: Cobra Colors Grigio Titanio Metallic over T235 primer. Opened grilles Foiled script Unfortunately I'm going out tomorrow (to Boston) for a few days so I won't be able to continue at least until next week. Thanks,
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Thank you all for your nice comments! Glad to see such a good reaction considering that the subject is not exactly the cup of tea of many in this modeling community. Robert: Yes, yellow is a tough color to work with, but automotive lacquer helps a lot. I wouldn't even think of trying it with hobby enamels! Thanks,
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Here is the explanation in case the pics sequence is not clear enough. I'm building the Revell C6-R racing Corvette. However, the kit represents the car as it was unveiled back in 2005. I want to replicate the car as I saw it racing in Atlanta back in October 2006. Some body mods are needed. First, the cooling ducts are part of the bodywork, but the kit has them separate. So I cut and blended them in place. Then the spoiler support is different as well as its location. That was also changed. Some more minor bodywork is needed before having it ready for color... Thanks,
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A Revell C6-R Corvette story without any written text :wink: :wink:
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Hello again: OK: This is the only thing I'll add to it :wink: plus I'll check the parts bin for wheels and tires. "I am NOT buying wheels for it", "I am NOT buying wheels for it", "I am NOT buying wheels for it" And this is something I'm "removing" from it: This is very Very VERY thin and delicate so I have to be very Very VERY careful with the Dremel from the back.
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Thanks Len. I had a lot of fun writing that. Actually I think it was Einstein that said "Quick model car building is relative" A quick build for me is anything less than 6 months :wink: Russ: I've seen pics of yours and it looks great!! Thanks,
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What to do with a $7 20-parts snap kit? You build it! I got this kit for $7. It has about 20 parts. 30 if you count the wheels, tires and axles. But don't let it fool you. It has potential. Let's see if I can make a quick build out of this....
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Cool. It has that 90's look :wink:
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Nice color. It goes well with that car.
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I'm not into hot rods but this is VERY NICELY DONE. It definitely stands apart from the crowd. The steel surfaces are very convincing. Thanks,
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Cool Jeff! It turned out great!