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bobss396

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Everything posted by bobss396

  1. I thought the NNL East had a '32 Ford class a few years back. I'm still not sure what an "internet theme" is. But they're still popular to build, I have a Revell 5-window kit in the works myself. It's actually a pretty good kit with the Hemi engine, '40 Ford wheels, dash, steering wheel, etc. Norm has a bunch of resin goodies for it as well and more to come. If I finish mine in time for the show, I'll bring it. Bob
  2. I have a JPEG format car picture that I'd like to turn into a line drawing. Is there a way to do it by a program? Or am I out of luck? Thanks, Bob
  3. Almost anything will fit with some modification. The last 2 I did, I used the Y-Block Ford from the AMT '60 Ford and another using a NASCAR 351 from a donor stock car kit. I have one on the bench now, it has a Dodge 383 in it. The one in the attached pictures is the 351 in an AMT kit. Bob
  4. The final tally here was 26.3" of snow. A single storm record, so the papers say. I still had some clean up to do on Monday when I got home from work, but it was close to 39 degrees. I celebrated by cooking chicken on the gas grill last night. Someone clocked a car on my block that was parked on the street, glass and plastic all over the road. Be nice to wake up to that this morning. There's still a few cars in the ditch off the main roads, be a pretty penny to winch one of them out, it's down there. Bob
  5. We just got done digging out of 24" on Long Island. It can snow here anywhere from mid November to April. Snowfall can be anywhere from 2" to 200" per season. Some years we get lucky, some years, not so lucky. 2009 is going out with a bang. The drifts were as high as 5' tall. I had lots of things planned for yeaterday, but snow removal prevailed. Bob
  6. I use the metric conversion as well. For 1/25th scale, 1 inch = 1mm which is close enough to .040". So if 1" = .040, 2" = .080 and so on. I find this to be the easiest way to go and use it all the time. Bob
  7. Pretty aggressive section and chop, looks great though. Lots of sanding and tweaking to do, but it'll be worth it in the end. Bob
  8. Thanks. The scoop has chrome insert for it to. Ihave a couple of Black Gold greens (one is a pearl) in mind or possibly something from Duplicolor. Bob
  9. I finished 1, started about 6 others to add to the semi-done pile. I only bought about 8, so far. If I can get going on a roll, I could finish about 5 with little a effort. Bob
  10. Quite possible that its a play on words? Maybe Joe Riga owns the car. Bob
  11. It will be back more in the grille shell once it gets installed. It was a nicely cast piece that needed almost no clean up. Bob
  12. No skirts on this one, figured I'd try something different. Bob
  13. Thanks. The chassis was shortened a scale 8" between the engine and firewall. The oil cooler was cut off sn old NASCAR kit radiator. To those less "enlightened", it is in fact a NASCAR modified. Bob
  14. This is from the previous clean up. Basic set up is the same, the stove is gone and has a refrigerator in its place. Bob
  15. Flintstone resin body, AMT '66 T-Bird interior, '66 Bird scoop grafted to hood, Modelhaus wide whites, aluminum trim rings, '68 Chrysler 440, Replicas & Miniatures DeSoto grilll. Hope to have it done for the NNL East. Bob
  16. If the pictures show up, these are some of my '37 Chevy modified from LIARS member Andy Behrens Fotki site. Bob
  17. I started a stash of un-used kit lights that has helped me out quite a bit. Since I do a stock car now and then, the lights go into the stash. You might trying asking if anyone could save you some at one of the NASCAR builder boards, Randy Ayers is probably a goood one. Bob
  18. I just re-arranged around 300 kits of my own at home. I had to empty my storage area when I had a new heating system installed in the summer. Finally got things out of boxes and on the shelves again, even sprung for a new shelf unit at Home Depot. I also cleaned up the model building area and now I can work like a human being once again. Bob
  19. Scuff up the paint with something like 220 or 280 grit to crack the surface, of course keeping away from obliterating any detail. I swear by oven cleaner that I get at Big Lots, or any dollar store should have it. Skip the lemon scented ones and go for the full-strength product. Bob
  20. Mixing brands of paint is like starting the evening out drinking wine and switching at some point to scotch. The results are not always what you want. So get that scenario out of the way before it happens. Bob
  21. I like the thicker CA gels for attaching resin pieces. Sometimes the epoxy doesn't set up as hard and as fast as I like. Bob
  22. If I don't like what comes in the kit, I'll make one out of styrene rectangular stock for the tanks and Evergreen rail road siding for the finned area. I use either .030 or .040 stock back-to-back. It winds up looking like a Griffin aluminum radiator. Or I'll sometimes crop a NASCAR kit radiator into a smaller radiator, just add the tanks. Bob
  23. Real men paint outside year round. I need to get a spray booth going myself, just too much sh** to juggle when I airbrush outside. I saw a neat one made up from a cardboard box and a stove hood that actually worked. So I'd be living on the edge with sparks from the blower motor, crossing the street every day had some degree of risk. Bob
  24. "I'm holding them for a friend". Bob
  25. The annual LIARS Model Car Challenge is being held on Saturday November 14th at the Freeport Rec Center in Freeport, Long Island, NY. The address is 130 East Merrick Road in Freeport, NY 11520. This is a jugded show with at least 24 classes of awards for places 1-3. Also master awards for various categories. Very reasonable food on premises, lots of parking, plenty of vendors will be attending. Replicas & Miniatures of Maryland will be there. The show starts at 9am, the entry cutoff time is 12 noon. For directions, use your online map service of choice. Or go to the Freeport Rec site. The best way once you're on the Meadowbrook Parkway is: Take the Merrick Road (aka Route 27A) exit going West. Get into the LEFT lane as soon as possible, at the light make a left onto Mill Road, which may or may not be marked. Follow Mill Road South for about a 1/4 mile, the Rec Center will be on your right. Hope to see you there, Bob
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