bobss396

I had met Bobby at a DIRT modified race at Flemington NJ in 1983, he signed a bumper sticker for me, I should still have it. His car was a Miller beer replica of his WC cars. I met Davey when I was running at Islip in 1984, I got to talk with him a bit. Too tragic that he is no longer with us.

I knew a few guys in my club some years back, they swore by Plastic Wood. I thought it was too coarse to use. Does it sand out smoothly? I'm using Bondo or 3M spot putty, less is more of this product. How much does the PW shrink?

I just read the whole thread. Nice choice on the chassis, I would never thought of using a WC chassis under a non stock car build. Making it up as you go along, that is the fun part.

I had to stop yesterday, my table was out of hand in a big way. I have 5 projects going at once... My main area is about 3 foot by 18", behind that I have supplies, projects boxed up. I cleaned everything off and went out to buy a bigger mat, 11" x 17" at Hobby Lobby. I have a smaller one I keep files and sanding sticks on. BUT... it is a vast improvement for me. I tend to build in total chaos. Just like my 2.5 car garage crammed with cars, parts, tools and machine shop equipment. I'm going to get a better (non leaking...) shed so I can move some stuff out to it. At work, my office was known for being a disaster zone. I always had a lot going on.

I will report back when they arrive. The 3D ones were too much like work to get them to be acceptable to me.

Mine took a dump on me a few years back. It is a Magic Chef, my brother found them at Walmart at the time. We did mine up first, got into the base and wired in a light switch type dimmer switch to control the heat. I just ran across the "schematic" I drew up for it back them. I know I can get a base on eBay. My brother made his shallower than mine, he used a piece of plastic scrounged from work and is about 6" deep. Mine I used 10" chimney flashing, pop-riveted at the seam and to the bottom tray. Lousy picture but you can see where I have the thermometer and the dimmer switch at the bottom left.

I had a real '67 SS in Nassau Blue. It earned me loads of tickets with the hot 327 in it.

I just bought these, just what I was looking for. PE brass with a decent .028" hole in them. I bought some 3D resin hooks on eBay, but they need a lot of work to look decent. https://stsupplyco.com/products/chain-hooks-photoetched-brass-5mm-long-x-2-5mm-wide-7mm-hole?_pos=13&_sid=79dabf754&_ss=r

I build phantoms too. I did a Mario Andretti one, blue and gold. Also a Terry Labonte MW Windows one.

Odd they would issue a kit with a rough body like that. I generally take my time with bodies, re-scribe panel lines, remove flash, give every outside feature a slight radius to they take more paint. Then I'll wet-sand with 2400 grit and wash with soap and water before I shoot any primer.

I used to talk to him at the NNL East, he is already missed. A truly great painter.

I like it over white lacquer, also it has a great effect over flat black, really like a nice satin finish. No polishing was needed with that. I also shoot it over flat metalizers I use on wheels.

I had BMF tarnish with a model I stored in the box, wrapped in paper towels. The towels yellowed and messed up the foil. I haven't tackled the bad foil yet, maybe it will come off easily with a little rubbing. BTW, the AMT '49 Mercury is one of my all time favorite kits. I built one in 1963 when I was 8 and painted it Testors yellow from the jar.

AMT makes some Good Year and Firestone wide oval tires that are quite nice, some with wheels, some without.

I have elcheapo Summit bars on my old Ford, yellow of course. They work well and most of my wheel hop on the 1-2 shift is gone. I saw the resin ones too and they look good. Make some u-bolts from .020" brass rod, or aluminum rod that Detail Master carries. And their #1 hex nuts and it will look real.

I use plain paper most of the time. I save some stuff off the printer to write on the back. Paper carries no static charge, so a win-win. I'll also spray away from the taped line whenever possible.

I have a lot of small hardware like 0-80 and 2-56 and it comes in handy. A 2-56 screw measures up at .086" nominal, an 0-80 is .060".

Very clean! Those Vegas are really tiny compared to Novas, etc.

Very nice, I did one a while back and the stripes were a challenge. Fitting it up before including glass is a must-do. I'm doing an AMT '66 Nova pro street now. The kit is riddled with flash, pin marks and fit issues. At the same time I am doing the AMT Chevelle pro street, night and day considering they were issued at the same time-ish period.

Nice paint work. What tape did you use? I tend to avoid 2-tone paint jobs.

I built the Revell Maxx Rat kit some years ago and am building an AMT kit now. The Revell kit, the rear bumper and lights needed work to look right. The rear suspension was far more fiddly. I did like the engine and interior. The AMT kit, I'm replacing the rear coils with some real springs. I have to relieve the chassis rails a but so the springs sit straight up and down. I generally make extra mounting tabs for the front and rear bumpers, I want them to go on easily at final assembly. Both cars I have opened the trunks and added a fuel cell and battery. Oh on the AMT kit, this is big. The headers hang down too low. I had to take my finished headers and remove about 5/32" of drop from them. I scribed 2 lines on them first before I sawed them apart. Put them back together, much better.

I like the pin idea myself. I have used CA glue, but sometimes it sets up in a few seconds. I did a front axle replacement on a '62 Ford kit, I used short pieces of 1/16" aluminum tubing. I did not want the axle thru the oil pan look. Mine are still not secured.

I did a mostly stock '34 coupe a while back and went with red-oxide primer. I liked how it came out. I covered the red primer with Dull Cote to give it some protection. Testors also makes a nice flat red that I still have a new can of.

I have to watch myself with old paints I have around. I blow through the gray Mr. Hobby cans, about 1 every 10 days. I just picked up some Tamiya white primer online. On the '34 body, I usually sand out that extra ledge around the side windows.

It will fog glass too. I use as little as possible and have little out on the bench. I put a dab into an old beer bottle cap (Miller works best, YMMV...) and toss the cap when I'm done. I'll use those little applicators or a toothpick.