bobss396

I like to paint with a shedding Angora cat on my shoulder too. I'm a big believer in washing my hands often when I'm into final assembly or paint work. I guess Windex would work fine too. Bob

Ed's a good guy. I always stop by to see him at shows. He's probably the best resin hood maker out there. I had talked to him about the new white resin a few years ago, don't know if he took my advice but he's using a lot of it now. I agree that he's a good vendor to deal with. Bob

Dave, I thought that EVERYBODY knew about it! A few LIARS made it, otherwise there was no one there that I knew. I'm sure the show for 2009 will be around the same time, check the Rumblers site for the exact date. Bob

It was right at the Metropolitan Ave exit, 32B. I mean the cars were right there as I went down the ramp. I crossed under the BQE, got a parking spot on Skillman, a 5 minute walk. Bob

http://public.fotki.com/BobSS396/rumblers_show/ Check the link to 108 pix from the Rumblers show in Brooklyn NY yesterday. Loads of cars, bikes, tattooed people were in attendance, a must see for 2009 if you're in the 'hood. You may have to cut and paste it if it doesn't open by itself. Bob

The LIARS monthly meeting is on for Thursday night 8/21 at 7:00-9:30 PM. We're always looking to add new members to the roster, so come on down! Dues are $25 for the year and you get the right to wear the signature black LIARS t-shirts and other apparel. The August theme is 1:1 rides on display in the parking lot. Remember: Bring a canned good or other non-perishable food item for the food pantry. Every little bit helps. The location is: Henrietta Acampora Recreation Center, 39 Montauk Hwy, Blue Point, NY. From the Long Island Expressway (495): Exit 62S, Nicholls Rd. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately a ¼ mile. Center is on the left-hand side just past the King Kullen shopping center. Directions from Sunrise Highway (Rte 27) are the same, grab Nichols Road and head south.

I had all 4 done in one shot in 1988 on a Thursday. I was knocked out for it, didn't feel a thing until the anesthesia wore off. Spent the next few days on drugs. On Friday, I built planters for my front stoop with POWER TOOLS. Saturday, I had rented a jack hammer, blasted a hole in my basement wall, broke up 15 feet of sidewalk and ran electric to my garage. All the while eating Percodans and Codein like they were penny candy. I had no bad after effects aside from one socket that refused to heal, it would up being a sliver of tooth that had to come up to the surface. Stock up on ice cream! Bob

I avoid paint-to-paint part attachments whenever possible. If I have to I'll use 5-minute epoxy, mix it up and wait until the 3-minute mark to apply it. Any excess wipes off with a damp cloth and won't attack the paint immediately like other glues. Another trick is to fabricate mounting tabs beforehand, before you do the primer. Then use the tabs as the gluing surface and the actual painted surfaces are not an issue. Bob

I like Model Car Garage mufflers. Scale Repros has a good set too. I would look at the MCG site as well as Detail Master. For exhaust tips, I usually make my own. Bob

Yeah, the TV show was a stretch to believe most of the time. Putting all the drama aside, he did turn out some creative cars. The shop was destined to fold up without strong leadership and a vision to keep the work flowing. Basically, no Boyd figure to run the show, no hot rods. However, the wheel shop is the proverbial cash cow. They have an established product line so that should be the easier side of the business to keep going. Bob

We were talking about hearses last night, I had my sister and brother over. I had mentioned earlier about a local funeral home family that was used a "work" vehicle to get groceries. The cars used to pick up "clients" from hospitals or homes are known as a "removal cars". My sister had a friend that worked in a funeral home and filled her in on that as well as other trade tidbits. Bob

All's well that ends, period. Sometimes it pays just to slug it out and finish it although it was a fight the whole way. Use it as a learning experience. It came out nice though. I'm not a big fan of resin bodies though, just too much work for my liking. Bob

The wild part of the saga is that the Big 3 and others making gas guzzling monsters didn't see the handwriting on the wall until they ran smack into it. I was looking for cars since January, trying to justify a nice V6 powered American car. In the end, I just was not able to do it and settled on a used 2.5S Altima last month. 4-bangers are the way to go if you want decent gas mileage. Hybrids now have a great market and I think we'll be seeing some turbocharged diesels within the next year or so. Bob

I spend around $35 per week and my wife does around $60 a week on gas, mostly going back and forth to work. I really haven't been buying that many models for the past few years, I'm well stocked. Trips to my LHS are for glues, paints mostly and other supply items. When I do go out on the road for shows, I car pool with my brother and we take a car that is good on gas. I save up for events like the NNL East and other big $hows. So far the gas prices haven't cut into my modeling funds. I have cut back on things that I really don't need for the most part. Bob

The hearse I was looking at needed work, it was purple with a white top and had "Plum Crazy" lettered in gold leaf on the rear quarters. It had a hangman's noose in the back window and purple crushed velour side curtains. This was during the 1974 gas crunch and my license was hanging by a thread anyway. Oh yeah, Cadaverllac, I made that up years ago, but you can use it. Got any pix of the hearse? Bob

When I was 19 I came SO close to buying a '62 Caddy hearse. I had the $600 in my hand too, but caved into family and my girlfriend at the time pressures. It was probably a good thing too. On a similar note to your story, years back I was at the supermarket and I saw the wife of the local funeral home's family putting groceries in her Buick wagon. It wasn't a hearse per se, but it WAS the car that they transported bodies from hospitals and homes to the funeral home. It was a dark blue with a vinyl top and had those little scrolls by the "D" pillars. So you're not the first to take groceries home in a "stiff hauler" or Cadaverllac. Bob

I had the original issue '40 as a kid and I have a built up original with the box and instructions that I got a couple of years back. There have been other changes to the kit as well besides the ones mentioned in earlier posts. The headers used to exit under the front fenders, or course there was that awesome 31A/G decal sheet. Tires and "custom" hubcaps have varied from release to release. I consider it a timeless kit in any form and have probably built at least a dozen (so far). The first one I did was close to the boxart as possible for an 8 year old. Bob

They were tossing out some shielded wire at work and I grabbed a couple of rolls. Once the outer jacket is stripped, it still has the wire inside (which helps hold the shape) and a tinned braid on top of that. I have it in .035, .050 and .060 diameters. Definitely good for radiator hoses, bigger fuel line, etc. It works well with Detail Master fittings. We also had some semi-flex cable that has an armored outer jacket. It looks just like flex exhaust pipe and measures .086 in diameter. Bob

I get Evergreen products at my LHS, he has a fair stock of almost anything. Check the link below, it has a tab for retailers, but I'm sure you can google it and come up with a place to get it. Bob http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/

Start out easy to see what works for you. I like to use .093 Evergreen tubing. You can add wire of smaller rod to attach it to the interior and to other cage parts, which makes it super strong. Or swipe a cage out of a NA$CAR kit and adapt it. I like to use .080 rod on them. Performance Plastics makes a good plastic roll cage which saves a lot of work and is very adaptable for other projects. Bob

There is more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. I tend to take all my parts off the trees, clean them up first. I'll drill holes (where it won't show) to give me a place to "spear" the part with a toothpick and paint away. You can also hold the parts on fun-tack (used to hang posters) and a toothpick. Double sided tape works well for painting parts that have one side that won't show. For mold lines on 2 piece assemblies, I'll glue them with Tenax or Proweld brush-on glue and sand the seams. Almost all my pre-paint assembly is done with the aforementioned glues. I save super glue and epoxy for final assembly where more control is needed on painted parts. I really hate painting dashboards and interiors. I usually spray paint the major pieces and do the detailing with a small brush (buy good ones!) and have been using acrylic paint lately. Hope this helps. Bob

I walked in last night and caught the game right in the middle. I really had no favorite in the series as I like both teams. It was a tough one to lose for Pittsburgh. But they'll be back in force in 2009 I'm sure. Bob

The putty is good stuff, very much like the professional 1:1 putty. And if you have to use more than a thin wipe, you're using too much. All of my putty work goes into the dehydrator, so shrinking is not an issue. Bob

Nice build, really captures the look. I always did line 'shine cars and HAVE to see Thunder Road soon. That should be great reference material, not as good as what you have access to. Bob

I know, how inaccurate is that? There's probably the risk of paying royalties to the Joe Catalytic Converter Company, Inc. out there. Bob