bobss396

I am looking for small nuts to use on some NASCAR modified wide-5 wheels. I have used Walthers 00-90 nuts and either 00-90 threaded rod or just .031 brass for the studs. But the flats on the screws are too big, .080 = 2 scale inches. There was a place that sold nuts and studs attached, called Galtran (Gallery of Transportation). They are out of business. I do have some that measure 1" in scale (.040" across the flats. Something with a larger nut like .062" might be a good compromise. Anyone have a source? That would be a big help. I'm going to order some brass or aluminum nuts from RB Motion for now to get me going. I can use brass or stainless steel pins with those. I have a bunch of 1/32" from McMaster Carr I use to pin parts together. Thanks all!

I built one of the OG kits. I messed up the BADMAN decals and made it into MADMAN, on the trunk lid.

Thanks, things are looking up. We very recently had a change of president, someone that has been around the club as long as I have. One very long time member recently left and we have someone new doing the monthly newsletter. I have been talking to some former members and they may be coming back.

I just picked up a few 3D printed ones from Pro-Tech on eBay, they look really nice.

I will look later to see if there are any. It is definitely not Modelhaus. Don had some "masters" for sale at the past NNL East.

I have seen some of his old "masters" recently over on eBay, not cheap either.

I like the wheels and tires, who made them?

I have a bunch of the AMT and Monogram kits. An outlet store had the Monogram kits for $1.97... 40 will fill a shopping cart. I blew out a bunch on eBay some years back. I'm down to maybe a dozen and 6 of the AMT kits.

Where I have had carbs hidden by an air cleaner, I have used a simple square block made from styrene stock. Paint it silver of gold, add a little plumbing and it was done. Sort of on the style of a Predator piece.

Ivan about 3 months old. He soon graduated to 24-pack beer boxes.

I have old stalled builds languishing in boxes for 20 years. I just took one out of hibernation. Fit quality is something I struggle with. Now I go through the assembly in the primer state, before I get to the finish paint and have little options. I look at the glass closely. I fit the interior tub less the dash to see if the tub hits the glass. Then pop the dash in, try it again. I also make positive mounting interfaces for almost any major part, so they go back together the same way all through the build. I make sure that the interior tub sits the same. I make up hidden features to aid this. Chassis to the body, I do the same thing. Everything is pinned with 1/32" brass rod or small dowel pins. Plastic rod works too.

I have been using Bondo 1-part filler from Ace Hardware. I use so little that most sands off after it cures.

I believe it has something to do with the recent formulation of the bigger cans. I have used the older small cans I have had around... no blush even at low temperatures. I did a '62 Ford back in the spring with one of their red pearls. I shot it outside in about 50-degrees, low humidity. Instant blush as soon as I came inside. I let it dry and scuffed it up, wet sanded with a DM 2400 cloth to break down most of the blush. I gave it another coat, in my warm laundry room... again... blush. I let that dry for a day and color sanded it from 1500 to around 3600 grit DM cloths. I followed that up with clear lacquer, SEM 1K HS clear, P/N 40903. That was the answer.

I save unused kit headlights. I have sanded off the texture and used that as covers. When I worked for a living, I was going past the punch press scrap bin, I found a bunch of round blanks that measures around .270", perfect for old NASCAR builds.

I'm doing a white build right now. It is something I started years ago. I have lately been using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, I have white and gray. Another I fould at Hobby Lobby is Mr. Surfacer 1000 in gray, P/N B-519Y. These cans spray very well and leaves a very smooth finish, highly recommended. I have used these under car lacquers with no problems. Tamiya white should be no problem.

The old Maxx Rat Chevelle from Revell had a decent set. I also have bought a slew of resin ones over the years. But the new 3D printed ones are the bee's knees in comparison. VCG Resins has some nice ones. Look around on eBay, I have seen some nice 3D printed ones there.

I agree with Mark. Maybe it wasn't cured completely. I had some tires from MCW in an old build I had in a box. They were fine when I put them on, they have sat for about 15 years and I found them to be sticky when I opened the box recently.

Thanks for the replies, just as I suspected. I have maybe a dozen cans around, new. Their Orion Silver was a great base spray. I just cracked open a can of their Nova Orange metallic.

I have a bunch of AMT versions. Some of the custom parts vary, but the stock-build options are there. I have the OG version from 1961 (?), another from around 1965, the Dick Tracy one too. I may have more in my stash.

My '49 Ford was shot at the NNL East, I have to look for the issue locally. I hope the car is in there.

The first is Chloe, we lost her to cancer last April. This cat was more human than most people I know. The little guy is Ivan, about 1.5 years old in the picture, he is now 7. He came to us as a feral rescue at about 6 weeks old.

I saw him at Westbury NY around 1983 or so, He put on a great act.

I would substitute their Aleve stash with Viagra.

I have a couple that come into my yard to snack on clover. I used to have more, but the fox keeps their numbers down.

We just lost former LIARS president Rich Argus a couple of weeks back, he had been in declining health for a while. He was exposed to Agent Orange during his Vietnam War deployment. Rich was known for his dioramas and was working on some recently on his good days. At the past NNL East I had learned that we lost Barry Fadden from the Classic Plastic NH club and Tommy Kortman from NJ.