bobss396

I have one started (why finish ONE when you can start SIX more...) and am using a kit bashed 409 in it. And a chopped resin body. I;m close to assembling the rear, I have to look at another one on the shelf, the instructions are not that great.

I have both of those cars on the bench right now, the '67 is a little ahead. The '66 needs a ton of work to correct kit issues, but both have a very simple back half to them.

I'm looking to find a 3D source for NASCAR wide-5 modified wheels, the older style with the safety hubs. 4 bolts on the front centers and 8 on the rears (for floating axles). They could fit the existing PPP modified tires, or new ones could be made up. Lots of guys I know are looking for them. I have been cobbling some sets together from slush cast resin. I used to make a few sets when I had machine shop access, but 3D printing is the way to go.

Nice work on the rear. Other options are cutting the entire back half off and doing some extensive surgery. This is where at least for me they turn into Frankenstein projects. There is a guy on eBay, Juan4you that does a lot of 3D stuff. He has aback half that looks interesting. Possibly something in a Jaguar format too. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=juan4you&_trksid=p3618104.m570.l50838

VHT also makes a nice silver paint for wheels. Argent Silver, made for older Ford wheels and splash pans. Their Rollcage & Chassis black is also quite good. As a kid, most of us brush painted the silver on the interiors, we thought it looked GOOD. I did graduate to spray cans of Testors flat black to do the bulk of chassis painting.

Freddy was one of my favorite drivers back then. He took a break, tried to come back and definitely lost his groove. Other greats of the day were Paul Goldsmith (fast in the Pontiacs), of course the prophetic Fireball Roberts,Junior Johnson and many others.

The Salvino kits are supposed to be iin this format. However I have found them to be made for the Buick Regal bodies (like the GMP Buicks) and other bodies need work to fill in gaps between the body, firewall, etc. I have a Pontiac Lemans of theirs going and had to add a lot to make it presentable on the flip side.

I have "conversed" with Steve on his model builds on IG. He makes his own decals and is into AWB Mopars. I really hope he will be okay.

Some 1965 Impalas had the 409. There was an AMT kit with one, IIRC a convertible.

I'm doing a Richie Evans coupe as a consignment for a good friend. While I'm deep unto it, I'm also making items up for an upcoming '36 Chevy modified. I have the cage (from scratch) built, also made up a simple jig to build on. I need to get a CAD program on my new PC so I can make a better cage. The ones in the kits are not so great.

This is where I saw them first, around 1966 probably at Islip. By 1970 the coupes were slowly being replaced, by 1972 the Vegas and Pintos were all over.

I love that kit. I did a '66 NASCAR and laboriously swapped a '65 chassis under it, I clipped it actually. I wanted steerable wheels.

I follow his builds on Insta Gram. His TV shows on junkyards are amazing. I 1st heard of Steve when he went to work for HRM. If you have never seen it, look up his 500 Cadillac swapped into a Chevy Chevette. Like the prototype Road Kill project.

They have nice big blocks in the Revell kits. One of my slot car buddies saves kit parts and sells them, I'm always looking for a nice 427 to use.

We built one as a club project a couple of years back. I did the chassis and exhaust. It was eventually auctioned off among the builders, I missed that meeting somehow. It did build up quite well. Nice job on yours.

I have a few of those kits, nice detail to them. I have a resin '65 Biscayne I have plans for and have been putting parts aside for a while. The Revell kit will be essential. I'm dying to pick up the new '66 Impala as well.

CA glue is also tough to sand, not good if you need to do that. Especially with fine details.

Resin bodies are a challenge. The only saving grace if that resin sands easily enough. Now the 3D printed ones, they seem to be much thinner and require less work. BUT... I find the printed resins to be brittle if I have to drill on them. I tell friends at shows, do not let me buy any resin bodies... I have a slightly stalled '64 Fairlane stock car in resin that needed a ton of work. But the body is where I'm happy with it. Then a Flintstone '49 Mercury, also a mountain of work.

I did one recently, pretty much the same as yours. It takes a real man to chop up a 60 year old kit. I have to shoot some pix of it soon.

I likely built them all. I still have one I did MANY moons ago, the glue let go over time, it is fixable. The kits are a kit-bashers dream.

I have painted them on with great success. It helps to have a tire with a recess to border the acrylic paint. The old AMT blackwalls were good to use. I would wash and scrub the tires with hot water and dish soap. Then do the painting, sometimes it took a couple of coats.

Quite nice. My brother did one, someone in the club casted a few crew-cabs that were excellent. He scratch built the entire back, that made the model magazines. I really need to do one for one of my modifieds to sit on.

I may have combined the #1 and #2 pieces and left them intact. You can always separate them later.

I struck out with hex beads at Hobby Lobby, eBay has them in a 15/0. Since they are so brittle, I have to use them as-is. Which works for me.

I like to lay down the best clear coat as possible. I mentioned one I am not going to polish out. I usually go 2-3 coats of clear regardless. I'll even sand between clear coats.