bobss396

Definitely a cool kit, glad I salted a few away. I have one I started a few years back. I was at the NNL East when the Revell guys debuted the Merc kit. I told them that they screwed the pooch and should have done a '51 instead, they were far from pleased. It would be cool to see a '51-conversion in resin or 3D print.

I stripped an old Tamiya rattle-can job recently, used Castrol Super Clean and it was a chore. Wound up wet-sanding the rest off in a course of a few days. I'm not big on decanting Tamiya sprays. The cans work so well as is. I have a heavy hand with anything I paint, no mist coats here. For clear, the TS13 is good, again it sprays well and dries hard. The X22 is too soft for my liking.

Outside of my stash, I rarely see any Craftsman kits in stores. I see them at shows and eBay and the prices are up there. I just did an eBay search and the only truck kits are 1/32 scale for slot car bodies.

Someone on eBay prints the newer bodies, I'll see if I can link to one. I scored a bunch of Monogram truck kits at a close out years ago for $1.98 each... a shopping cart holds 40 of them. I still have about 12 left and some AMT kits. I did a phantom to the Pearson #17 car and Andretti's #11 car.

I finished a Vega kit for the NNL East, did a Pinto build as a consignment. The Vega got wayyyy complicated. I'm doing another Pinto now, promise to post some progress pix soon.

Why finish 1 when you can start 6 more? I just unearthed a stalled tow truck project from around 2001.

Another satin black I like is VHT rollcage & chassis black. It dries quickly too and takes handling well.

I have the gray and white, also a Tamiya I also like. I have to get a can of the black. I had been using Duplicolor DS104, ultra flat black.

I am looking for small nuts to use on some NASCAR modified wide-5 wheels. I have used Walthers 00-90 nuts and either 00-90 threaded rod or just .031 brass for the studs. But the flats on the screws are too big, .080 = 2 scale inches. There was a place that sold nuts and studs attached, called Galtran (Gallery of Transportation). They are out of business. I do have some that measure 1" in scale (.040" across the flats. Something with a larger nut like .062" might be a good compromise. Anyone have a source? That would be a big help. I'm going to order some brass or aluminum nuts from RB Motion for now to get me going. I can use brass or stainless steel pins with those. I have a bunch of 1/32" from McMaster Carr I use to pin parts together. Thanks all!

I built one of the OG kits. I messed up the BADMAN decals and made it into MADMAN, on the trunk lid.

Thanks, things are looking up. We very recently had a change of president, someone that has been around the club as long as I have. One very long time member recently left and we have someone new doing the monthly newsletter. I have been talking to some former members and they may be coming back.

I just picked up a few 3D printed ones from Pro-Tech on eBay, they look really nice.

I will look later to see if there are any. It is definitely not Modelhaus. Don had some "masters" for sale at the past NNL East.

I have seen some of his old "masters" recently over on eBay, not cheap either.

I like the wheels and tires, who made them?

I have a bunch of the AMT and Monogram kits. An outlet store had the Monogram kits for $1.97... 40 will fill a shopping cart. I blew out a bunch on eBay some years back. I'm down to maybe a dozen and 6 of the AMT kits.

Where I have had carbs hidden by an air cleaner, I have used a simple square block made from styrene stock. Paint it silver of gold, add a little plumbing and it was done. Sort of on the style of a Predator piece.

Ivan about 3 months old. He soon graduated to 24-pack beer boxes.

I have old stalled builds languishing in boxes for 20 years. I just took one out of hibernation. Fit quality is something I struggle with. Now I go through the assembly in the primer state, before I get to the finish paint and have little options. I look at the glass closely. I fit the interior tub less the dash to see if the tub hits the glass. Then pop the dash in, try it again. I also make positive mounting interfaces for almost any major part, so they go back together the same way all through the build. I make sure that the interior tub sits the same. I make up hidden features to aid this. Chassis to the body, I do the same thing. Everything is pinned with 1/32" brass rod or small dowel pins. Plastic rod works too.

I have been using Bondo 1-part filler from Ace Hardware. I use so little that most sands off after it cures.

I believe it has something to do with the recent formulation of the bigger cans. I have used the older small cans I have had around... no blush even at low temperatures. I did a '62 Ford back in the spring with one of their red pearls. I shot it outside in about 50-degrees, low humidity. Instant blush as soon as I came inside. I let it dry and scuffed it up, wet sanded with a DM 2400 cloth to break down most of the blush. I gave it another coat, in my warm laundry room... again... blush. I let that dry for a day and color sanded it from 1500 to around 3600 grit DM cloths. I followed that up with clear lacquer, SEM 1K HS clear, P/N 40903. That was the answer.

I save unused kit headlights. I have sanded off the texture and used that as covers. When I worked for a living, I was going past the punch press scrap bin, I found a bunch of round blanks that measures around .270", perfect for old NASCAR builds.

I'm doing a white build right now. It is something I started years ago. I have lately been using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, I have white and gray. Another I fould at Hobby Lobby is Mr. Surfacer 1000 in gray, P/N B-519Y. These cans spray very well and leaves a very smooth finish, highly recommended. I have used these under car lacquers with no problems. Tamiya white should be no problem.

The old Maxx Rat Chevelle from Revell had a decent set. I also have bought a slew of resin ones over the years. But the new 3D printed ones are the bee's knees in comparison. VCG Resins has some nice ones. Look around on eBay, I have seen some nice 3D printed ones there.

I agree with Mark. Maybe it wasn't cured completely. I had some tires from MCW in an old build I had in a box. They were fine when I put them on, they have sat for about 15 years and I found them to be sticky when I opened the box recently.