bobss396

This keeps me off the street. A '59 Ford Custom 300 I picked up in Denver in 2014 as a shell. I put in a 355 SBC worth about 425 HP, Muncie M20, 3.89 locker rear. Underneath the car, everything is new.

I sell now and then at shows, but not 2-3 a year. You need to find guys like Len Feinberg and Dave Burkett (aka Model King). They do shows in the north-east. I know of one guy in my club that does shows, I'll ask him if he is interested. So far I buy your products on eBay, our few local shops stock almost no after market parts at all. And they have no interest in getting that going, they mainly do RC cars.

I talk with a club member who also prints, he says that scaling can be a big problem. So he has had to fudge some prints to get the sizing where he wants it. I have bought some masters and booster combos from VCG Resins that are quite nice. The GM ones take a .020" braided line nicely, the Ford ones are a little undersize and hard to drill out without breakage.

The last one I built got out of hand in a big way. Sometimes simpler is the way to go and the primer red looks killer.

I will have to try it. I have had some kit chrome (Salvino modified wheels) that oven cleaner, CSC, bleach wouldn't touch.

I find it too easy to blow through edges, etc using the thicker pads. They tend to wrap around things. I have a set somewhere... damned if I can find them.. which may be a good thing. I have a couple of DM 9000 kits, one unopened. I buy odd cloths like 1000, 1500, 1800 and 2400 since they are not part of the kits. Again, I cut them in 4 equal-ish pieces and mark them on the back. If they start looking funky, I toss them. The 8,000-12,000 cloths load up fast, so I tend not to use them at all. I go to 6000 and use a polishing medium from there,

Thanks, I will look on the Ron Coon site. I have to measure up some existing tires I have for comparison. I have used the ASA wheels before.

Norm Veber makes a nice crab-style distributor that wires up nicely. I have one done up ( in a '48 Ford build I have going, IIRC), I have to dig it out.

VERY cool, I like it a lot. I have do do one in a similar style. What are the wheels from?

I am on a pro-street bender myself, they are great kits to detail up. Well done.

Those cars were so ugly that they are actually beautiful now. Chrysler came out some gruesome stuff back in the day.

I saw this on IG last night, looks quite real. There was a '69 Mustang I saw for sale a while back, same rich color. I ran into a lady that also has a 2020 Mustang and hers was the same color, no custom order but I have yet to see another. Mine is Kona Blue, I have only seen 2 others in that color.

Sometimes simple is the way to go. It looks killer.

Nothing looks more like aluminum than... aluminum. On a couple of builds, instead of adding something raised like rivet heads, I crawled out to the garage and dialed off some small (.030" diameter) drill-points on my mill. It has to look very uniform to be a success. I tend to avoid CA glue on finished surfaces, but have to try it now I have seen your build.

Some sickos I heard collect model cars... wait... too close to home... Women get some odd fixations. Like those fake-flower buyers I get stuck behind in craft stores. Others to watch out for are Disney and clown collectors...

I saw one real '32 sedan and the owner used a Taurus station wagon roof on it. It had the right contour and ribs which added rigidity to it.

The red and black was always a good color combination on the '57.

The old AMT line of spray paints had a few that were not called metallics, they were called a "luster" finish. I would call them close to a pearl. Pearl paints are more subtle and may be what you are shooting for.

I did a stock car earlier this year, it was an old stalled build and I had to strip the old paint and decals off the body. I painted it with white lacquer, polished it to 8000 grit and went with toothpaste to polish it. SUPER smooth and I was proud. Onto the decals, I used some Polar Lights Leeroy Yarbrough decals... they all but slid right off the car. Got some JNJ decals, the same thing... back in the box it went. Maybe too smooth is not the way to go, will be watching this post.

A modeler's worst nightmare. I always make sure I have sufficient paint on the body, taking care to get the edges well covered. I start out with the body upside down to make sure the roll pans, etc have a good amount of paint on them. For me, lacquers are more forgiving than softer paints. Earlier in the year I had an issue when I was into the clear coat polishing stage and had to go back and carefully shoot the color coat in one area.

In the past I had used Spaz Stix chrome paint (found in a RC parts section of a hobby shop) and handling was an issue. I still have some and would like to try a clear over it, maybe a TS-13 or an acrylic clear like Krylon 1303. Lately I have been using Duplicolor chrome and I'm fairly happy with it.I did a set of '62 Ford bumpers that had horrid mold lines on them, right over primer. The last thing I did was some pro-street wheelie bars that I stripped the kit chrome from and cleaned them up. I had initially shot them with TS-14 black gloss over primer (Mr. Hobby) and the paint did not sit well. After an oven cleaner bath, back to square-one. This time, right over the primer and they came out well. I will look for the Revell chrome, I hope it becomes more available to us.

This is still nice to have. I need a stock car trailer tow vehicle and this may do the job. I used to see an old ambulance at the track now and then. I kick myself for letting a couple of Johan ambulance kits go some years ago.

Nice going, always good to come home with the loot. I had worked at a race car shop around 1978 and one customer had a 454 powered Vega pro-street that actually ran on the street. It came to us pretty much done, for some odd reason the owner kept the stock-ish Vega front end. We built the structure to stiffen up the front of the car, used a lot of 1" square and 1.5" round tubing. That took the flex out of it.

I opted out, had some dental surgery that went bad. I wasn't up to venturing that far. I will check the site however.

With lacquers, I will start at 1500, if that is not cutting it, I'll go to 1200 or 1000. With the Detail Master cloths, I cut new ones into 4 pieces and mark the grit on the back with a Sharpie. If one piece gets beat up, I toss it. Color sanding I always do wet, I add a drop of dish soap to the water, it lubricates and keeps the cloths cleaner. If you ever feel something dragging... STOP. You should look at the cloth or sandpaper for grit or other crud they pick up. I follow the same pattern across the body so I know where I had left off with the previous grits. I rarely go past 6000 grit, I use Meguiars or toothpaste to finish it off. At times, I may have to go back with a coarser cloth to get closer to an edge or crown line.