bobss396

I did a mostly stock '34 coupe a while back and went with red-oxide primer. I liked how it came out. I covered the red primer with Dull Cote to give it some protection. Testors also makes a nice flat red that I still have a new can of.

I have to watch myself with old paints I have around. I blow through the gray Mr. Hobby cans, about 1 every 10 days. I just picked up some Tamiya white primer online. On the '34 body, I usually sand out that extra ledge around the side windows.

It will fog glass too. I use as little as possible and have little out on the bench. I put a dab into an old beer bottle cap (Miller works best, YMMV...) and toss the cap when I'm done. I'll use those little applicators or a toothpick.

I mainly use Tamiya with the green cap solvent type. I have some Micro Mark too. I don't think Tenax is still made. For CA types, I use Gorilla Glue in small tubes or medium Zap-a-gap. Final assembly I'll use tape for hidden things like interior installs or 5-minute epoxy. CA glue can and will fog chrome and glass.

What about Frog Tape? I have a roll of it but never tried it. My brother also masks and shoots some parent body color along the tape-line. I have to ask what tape he uses.

I did a '66 Ford stock car and "clipped" the front of the chassis using the '65 front portion. A bunch of work but came out well. I have removed the exhaust from a '65 chassis before, a ton of work.

Glass is one of the very first things I look at, in final assembly it may be too late to have to do some surgery. We had one guy in the club, he would paint himself into corners with stuff like glass, he saved that for last.

Right now I have a few old kit boxes with general model parts, stock car parts and another with parts that I get from one slot car guy in the club. He sells off anything not needed in a slot car. I need to do it better. New parts, I have them in stackable plastic shoe boxes. I have them separated by hot rod, stock car, wheels and tires, stock car wheels and tires, decals, new and opened detail parts. Also started one with roll cage and chassis parts.

I'm on the fence about going, in the past it has been a good show. I come from Long Island and take the Orient Point ferry each way.

I had 3 of the '64 Fords over the years, one of the best looking cars of the era. You nailed the look and executed a great build.

There was an Esdel gasser kit MANY moons ago. It had an outhouse door for the front bumper. I built one maybe around 1970.

I have drilled holes in dashboards before and gave it the illusion that the tubing passed through it. I just let a scant amount of tubing go into the dash, sort of fiddly to fit together. I never bothered to add the legs down to the floor, but some dummy pieces could be made up. I did this on a '64 Fairlane late model I'm slowly working on.

I had one of our past club members Rich Manson show me how to flock at his dining room table. It was on a '58 Chevy custom I was doing. I used Testors jar paint and it looked good when done. But had to move fast. The white glue would give more "pot life" for sure. I still have a box with some flocking and the strainer in it.

I have one of those kits started, to replicate (sort of) my '20 Mustang. I forget where I got the Cobra-ish wheels from, going almost box stock and made red caliper covers for it. I found a close match to Kona Blue in Duplicolor.

The hood sets this car off. IIRC the OG '68 Barracuda kit had the same air cleaner and hood.

That is a great body style, I have a few of those in my hoard. I have the Benny Parsons Kings Row decals, also some Donnie Allison ones.

A bit older but good detail is the AMT '65 Ford kit.

I have a box of leftover cage parts. I pick up any I see at model shows too. I made a jig for the modified cages, I need to get a CAD program going to I can cut pieces that will fit together. I got the files and so far I like them. I would like some really small files, fairly hard to come across so far.

I like the air cleaner, dare to be different.

I find the later PPP cages to be MUCH cleaner than the older ones. The old ones had lines in the plastic, a chore to clean up. I narrow them if I have to. Files, a good subject. Most of my files are Nicholsons from my machine shop days. I have a nice tapered round one I use to fish-mouth the bars. I use almost exclusively 3/32" Evergreen tubing, stock #223. I'll have to check the HF ones mentioned.

I build on my dining room table, I'm single, just me and the cat these days. I may move up to my son's old bedroom and make that a dedicated modeling space. But I like being on the main floor, I can dash out the back door and shoot some paint quickly. I was on a building bender earlier in the year, I had over 60 cans of paint on the kitchen counters at one point, now I'm up around 45 or so. The table, I build on a 8.5" x 11" green mat, taped to the table top. I have another one I keep tools on. All my builds are in storage boxes, so they stay clean and dust-free-ish. I am getting better at organization. I have many plastic shoe boxes for new parts and use small plastic bags to keep in-process parts handy and clean.

Gotta have that hood medallion to make it legit.

Steering wheels were often wrapped with old fan belts and had friction tape over that, It was all about the grip.

Do you have a stock number for what you found? I'm on their site, sifting thru #15 beads, (54 pages...) nothing in hex. I did learn that anything round starts with an "RR". Thanks.

I am not going to mention names, but it was a BIG official at Islip. That was a great division. I was on a monthly bowling league about 12 years ago and ran into one of the former drivers, he was quite a bowler.