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bobss396

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Everything posted by bobss396

  1. I'm doing a project now that's using the '29 Ford chassis and I cut out the front cross member, widened it and put it back in. I'm using a NASCAR Ford engine and wanted to get the headers between the frame rails. Bob
  2. I'm doing a project now that's using the '29 Ford chassis and I cut out the front cross member, widened it and put it back in. I'm using a NASCAR Ford engine and wanted to get the headers between the frame rails. Bob
  3. When my kids were little it was almost impossible to even THINK about anything model car related. I worked 2 jobs, my wife worked a few evenings a week and Saturdays. Between baths, dinner, reading stories to them, I was spent by 9:30 most nights, it only gets better from there! Bob
  4. The part in question is a surge tank. They came out on mid-1960's Fords due to the lowered hood line which dropped the radiator down. Lots of Ford kits have them, or you can easily make your own from scratch. Bob
  5. I chopped a '58 Chevy and of course the compound curve kit glass no longer fits. A simple "little off the top" won't make the grade for my case. From what I've heard, the only way out is to make up a wooden form, take some clear plastic and vacuform it to the form. I'm willing to spring for a vacuform tool, anyone have any other suggestions or a "how to" on a wooden or form made out of other materials? Thanks, Bob
  6. Welcome to the forum, there are some very talented modelers here and the atmosphere is very relaxed. There are some clubs in your area, check out the club section of the forum. If you can make the NNL East on 4/12, you will be meeting up with a who's who of the local modeling gurus. Bob
  7. I always designate a "safe" area for models that are in final assembly. It can be a box upside down on the table, or a spot outside my normal spatter zone that keeps the model safe from harm. Too bad you had to go through that. My beloved sister is one of those that is oblivious to things on chairs, a blob of ice cream on the table. She has no kids so she's not used to having to navigate various hazards about the home. I guess there are more like her out there. Bob
  8. So far, I prime with trusty Duplicolor, do the metallizer spray and leave it as is. I've been using their stainless steel and aluminum and it looks good. I'll have to try buffing it a little the next time I use it. Bob
  9. I also do a careful trimming but use BMF to do most of my chrome fixits. Bob
  10. I'm not big on putting clear right over the color coat, too much solvent too fast for my level of comfort. I do the color coat, toss it into the dehydrator and do the clear once it is dry/cured. I've broken every "rule of thumb" and have disregarded every "old wives' tale" about using the Tamiya sprays and have never had a bad result from doing so. Some would call it luck, but I have too many success stories to fall back on. Bob
  11. Very cool, very different too. I used to see those as a kid, usually not running next to gas stations! I see real ones on various auction sites now and then. Bob
  12. Thanks, that was during my "black" period. And finding a flat black that lays down nicely is a chore. Bob
  13. It looks good from here. As long as you learn something and take it to the next build and so on. I don't do factory stock builds, they never look right for me and somewhere I digress from what it should look like. But test fit, test fit and do more test fitting, with the glass in place! I'll trim the chassis so it fits without a fight, do the wheel wells and between the rear most quarter panels and it fits a ton better, you'll never see where you trimmed. Pin things in place rather than relying on the "factory" glue points. You use less glue and it will (should) be a guaranteed fit. Overall you're on the right track, what's the next project? Bob
  14. Thanks Frank, it was a relatively quick build. The paint was done in less than 24 hours of course for a show deadline. I should be there, but later in the day probably around 12:30. My brother will be going and I'll get him to take my cars for me. Hope to see you there. Bob
  15. I really don't know, I'd have to have a loose one to try in the Revell kit, maybe MCG has one for the Revell kit? Bob
  16. Good question, I've been workin' 65 hour weeks lately so it will be close. There's not that much to do though, just some minor assembly and get the windshield to look right. The achilles heel of the kit is the freakin' windshield as far as painting/foil and the installation go. Bob
  17. Yeah, but can you pull up to the drive-in window at DONKin' Donuts? Looks cool, where do you stash the step ladder so you can get out? Bob
  18. Very cool ride, nicely done. It sits just right. I have some Powerslide decals to try on a current project. Bob
  19. '40 Standard coupe converted to a Deluxe, a bit of work but came out ok. Used donor parts from the yellow '40 convertible kit. Lots of flattie parts from Norm and MCG, '53 Ford truck hubcaps, I made the coil and shifter boot from aluminum rod as well as the trim rings which were nickel plated and sets off the brown nicely. Paint by Duplicolor. Bob
  20. A few of my '39 Ford from last year. Engine and master cylinder stolen from the '66 Riv kit, MCG grille and other PE parts, Parts by Parks distributor, Modelhaus tires, '62 Pontiac wheels, black paint is Duplicolor Universal Flat Black and Tamiya Turquiose. Aluminum fabbed parts incluse the coil, radiator tank and gas cap. Bob
  21. Good show, I would have Googled, "Is it a full moon tonight or what?". Bob
  22. Ther place: The Freeport Recreation Center in Freeport NY, the same place as the November LIARS show. Free easy parking, access right off a major parkway, good eats on the premises. This show is put on by a primarily military model club, the Long Island Scale Modelers Club, aka LISM. They put on a decent show and we bring cars to bolster up the gene pool for the car fans. Depending on who goes, there can be anywhere from 15 to 50 plus cars on the table. Below is the link to their site. Hope to see y'all there. Bob http://longislandscalemodel.tripod.com/
  23. The LIARS monthly meeting is on for Thursday night 3/20 at 7:00-9:30 PM. We're always looking to add new members to the roster, so come on down! Dues are something like $25 for the year and you get the right to wear the signature black LIARS t-shirts and other apparel. The location is: Henrietta Acampora Recreation Center, 39 Montauk Hwy, Blue Point, NY. From North LIE: LIE to exit 62S, Nicholls Rd. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼ mile. Center is on the left-hand side. From the North Shore: Take Nicholls Rd. south. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼. Center is on the left-hand side. From South Shore: Take the exit for Nicholls Rd. South. Make a left onto Montauk Hwy and take it for approximately ¼. Center is on the left-hand side.
  24. That is exactly what I do. I use whatever I have laying around, something around .020 or .015 round stock works well. You still may have to do some body and fender work on the pillar after, but it'll be stable. Bob
  25. Get "Goo Gone". Any hardware aisle should have it and it works every time. Its a citrus based product so it will be safe for all finishes (so far for me). Dab it on, give it a few seconds, wipe it off and do a quick rinse and mild soap wash. Bob
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