kurth

Ok I just finished the torino in time to leave for NNL east tomorrow morning

I have been using bonsai wire as suggested by you kind folks to fabricate an exhaust system. . I have managed to make an ehaust system in 3 pieces, and CA works .. but the parts have come apart a few times while I have been working with them. I figured if I soldered it together it might hold together better. I have soldering irons and solder and have soldered wires in the past but I don't think I've tried to solder aluminum before. Thanks! K

Cool! thanks for posting this. I'm good for one or two '80 monte carlos

I found this at Michael's Is this the same as the automotive product but with a different label? Thanks

Just depends what your tastes are. I have quite a few of those kits. The newer kits like the williams FW-14 and the MP 4/6 are marvels. They have a few metal parts, and screws for some parts. Some parts, like the engine block defy injection molding technology. The older tools like the P34, the Renault RE-20 and the two ferraris were released between the mid 70s and early 80s and are also pretty amazing kits but not quite as amazing as the newer ones. there are many in current release, http://www.towerhobbies.com/plastic/listin..._car_model.html Many of these have been reviewed in the past few issues of that other magazine. I have the p-34, the Williams FW-14, The MP 4/6 and the RE-20. if you would like to see pictures of them i'll be happy to shoot a few. I have yet to build one of these, but I did build the Tamiya 1/12th porsche 935. Quite a challenge but very rewarding. Good luck. I hope you get one or more and enjoy them.

Ahh yes, good point. The testors Enamel spray cans are pretty much useless. The flats are usable, but gloss enamel...yeah I see your point. But they do airbrush very well. I checked the plasti kote website and they only seem to sell it in out of the way parts stores in my area. I'll keep looking.

I really like testors enamels. They really get a bad rap! I have used the grey primer, and have always liked it. It dries to a sort of semi gloss and gives a good surface to paint a gloss finish on. I only ran into problems with it under testors Yellow, the yellow just isn't very pigmented so I used "white primer" from the military colors line. Floquil has a nice primer in their enamel line. Tamiya's spray primers are also a good bet but those little cans get a bit pricey. I can't find plasti-kote in my area or else I would try it. DupliColor primer is great also.

Great news! Thanks for stepping up and taking this on. Any chance of seeing some of the airplane kits AMT did in the 90s? Best of luck in this venture.

It is now available at my favorite place for hobby supplies... Tower Hobbies http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...;M=KUS&P=SM Enjoy -Kurt

Thanks everyone. I have ordered some from amazon. It is anodized but i'll try the CSC, and get this model DONE.

I am working on a project where I need to scratchbuild the exhaust system. I know people bend solder, and this seems like just the perfect material but I can't seem to find solder of the proper diameter. I measured some kit pipes that I liked and they were 2mm. I have 3mm and 1.6 mm solder and I went to home depot and those were the only sizes they had. Home depot is probably not the best place to look for different varieties of solder though. I looked around and 12 or 10 gauge solid wire might be usefull too, but I didn't have my caliper handy to measure. I found a coat hanger that was 2mm but it's kinda stiff and hard to work with So My question is, what do you use? do they make a 2mm solder? If so where is a good place to get it? If not solder, what is a good alternative material? Thanks, Kurt

I don't know about the thread you are looking for but if I was in the market for a new booth I would start here http://www.pacepaintbooths.com/pace/

You have pretty much summed it up there Luke. Maybe some of Monogram's Big bomber kits, like the B-17 could come close to the nascar series of kits, as that kit has been in nearly continuous production since the 70s. I remember in the early 90s there were several new Nascar kits released each quarter. I really enjoyed building nascar models back then, and I build one or two a year these days. Thanks for the trip down memory lane

Well I don't have to be at work bright and early tomorrow, so I did some more work on the torino, Mocking it up to make sure it sits on all four wheels. I robbed the wheel backs, tires and metal axle from the AMT 1970 chevelle kit, then for the front wheels, I glued in some short lengths of brass tubing for stub axles after much fiddling with the driver side front wheel It sat square. The hubcaps are ModelHaus Items.. 1971 maverick Hubcaps. The torino was probably never equipped with these hubcaps, but they don't look too out of place. I don't think I like the black headrests on the seats, I'll probably repaint them Here I am mocking up the engine. It is a 351c from SMBC. after looking at this I had to fiddle with the fit of the alternator, it is no longer bent out of place as depicted here. Also I will have to fiddle with the fit of the carb and the air cleaner as the hood doesn't clear. The last thing I did was to chop up the radiator and fan shroud from the 1966 chevelle wagon to fit the torino chassis. I hope you enjoy seeing the progress

After several misadventures, including a clogged airbrush needle, finger prints in the paint and going down to pretty much the last drop of paint... I finally got the paint DONE on this Torino Here is a shot right after finishing clear coat.. Uhhmmm yeah ... we might need a little bit of sanding here... so I whipped out my handy dandy polishing kit and now ... Next up is BMF and finishing up the chassis.

I wet sanded the body today and put on a few more coats of paint. Now it looks much better. I will make sure nothing needs to be touched up and clear it this week.

This is Motor City Resin's 1972 Torino wagon. It just got some color. This is MCW Medium Metallic Brown It will need some sanding and some more paint to fix a few paint boogers, and to even up the paint coverage. It is a little darker then it appears in this picture.

I have the Fujimi BB512i ... It looks great to me... let me know if you want to see pictures of anything in particular

I would really like it if they were to re-issue the 1/16th dodge charger. the Richard Petty Version from the 70s is the one kit on my grail List I have yet to get. I'd be happy with the street machine version form the late 80s. I know 1/16th is not popular but that kit is really ripe for a reissue, as it has not been seen since the late 80s. Generic decals would be fine. I would buy at least two. That just leaves 4,998 more.

Looking good. Looks like you spent a lot of time getting the "look" right. The open holes in the wheels, and the tires really look great. Did you lower it a bit too?

I have just finished my latest model, Tim Richmond's Old Milwaukee Pontiac. These are powerslide decals and MCW paint. The model is mostly box stock, I lowered the ride height and ended up stealing parts from another kit after loosing parts to this kit over the years it was in my stash. I hope you like it. I'll do a Centerfold shoot later but here are a few pics on the bench as construction concluded

The white primer covered that well over dark gray? wow So what did I do on the way home today .. bought some white primer and super white. Hopefully I can get it to look almost as good as yours.

Typically I will try to put on some talk radio. I enjoy the chatter. The cable jack in my model Shoppe doesn't seem to work and i have never really felt the motivation to climb around the attic tracing cables and getting all itchy from the isultation, so I never put a TV in there. If I can't find any good talk radio I'll put on some CDs, streaming mp3s or put on the sound from the tv on in the model shop's stereo with the Zone2 from the receiver in the living room.

I built a different boxing of that 1970 Chevy last year It was a fun build and went together pretty easily. It's a good kit for a beginner. Have fun with it

First of all welcome to the hobby and this message board. If you are using enamel paint, you'll need something a little stronger to clean your brush. Testors sells "brush cleaner" in a 1 3/4 ounce bottle. I swish the brush around in the brush cleaner then wipe it off with a cloth or a paper towel. I also use lacquer thinner in an brush bottle with a cap. you can wash your brush with soap and water if you use acrylic paint. You might want to get some more brushes so you have some different sizes for different situations. I'm sure others can chime in with their suggestions. I've used enamel since I can remember. remember to stir your paint very well for best results. I use it because it is what I am used to, but I frequently use Acrylics and Lacquer too. If you have any more questions please post them ! -Kurt