kurth

Nice work. And thanks for mentioning Evan designs .. I have had ideas for hypothetical Knight Industries cars but they never got any where as I had no idea where to start with the LEDs

Very cool model, and an interesting subject. I like the texture you achieved on the seats.

Thanks! It has been tricky finding pictures of the bottom of this vintage car. It is fun to do something different.

I am working on the recently reissued MPC 1986 Shelby Charger. I can not find reference pictures of the underside of a K car .. or other FWD Chryslers of the 80s. So does anyone remember how they were painted underneath from the factory? We had a Reliant Wagon and Plymouth Sundance back in the day, and while I did change the oil on the Sundance, I do not remember getting underneath it to see what color it was. Were they like 60s and 70s Chryslers with body color overspray over primer, or were they painted with a different process? Thanks!

I do not see anything I want, but I am curious where this batch of round 2 and Atlantis kits are from. Are they a special run, or leftovers? That is a lot of Trailers and USS Wisconsins in this one location.

From Stef's post above, I would love to see the stock Ford EXP, The Fiero, and 1982 + El Camino Red Alert. Maybe the 1982 Corvettes as well, I already have the ghost Rider Corvette, but everyone else needs a chance at one too. Hopefully the recently reissued charger does well enough to have Round2 consider more 1980s subjects.

I end up painting the hood separately because I often want to get the body color in the engine compartment, depending on the kit, and if the real car was painted that way. I might also paint it seperately if i want to get body color on the the underside of the hood. Ace-Garageguy's point about metallics is a good one I have not thought of, and It will cause me to re-evaluate my process. I might end up painting the underside of the hood and the engine compartment a day or two before the final body paint job to ensure an even finish.

The older issues of the Monogram Dodge Ramcharger, and the Chevrolet blazer, and Ford Bronco had Tracker AT tires . Newer issues of the kit have the sidewall lettering removed. The Bronco seems like the easiest of the three to find, it was issued more often.

The Sterling, VA Ollies has all the monogram kits of the recent batch, a few AMTs ... the GMC General, the Dodge ram D50, the 1972 Chevy Coke pickup and some others I forget in the front of the store. In the toy aisle there were several gurney Eagles. I did not think to take a picture. I grabbed a Camaro since it is one of my all time favorites.

I do not see an enamel paint product listed : https://www.mr-hobby.com/ja/product1.html Maybe some of the weathering colors, or the markers are enamel based, but I do not recall ever hearing of a Mr. Hobby enamel line. I mean maybe in the past, but none at present. Are you possibly thinking of Tamiya Enamels? Tamiya has a line of enamel paint which is available everywhere but the United States.

What about the Revell 1959 Corvette ? The 58 has been reissued several times, but If my recollection is correct, the 59 was only released once as the 2 in 1

Nice ride, and great job replicating it in scale 👍

Revell did a C5 kit, which was re-issued many times covering different model years and trim levels. I also see a C5 snap tite on scalemates. I do not know the C5 well enough to know if there were changes between the model years that are very noticable. I have the Revell 1997 kit and it is what you would expect from revell in the late 90s, It looks nicely detailed.

Nice system. I really like that dbx 3BX!

I have the "Wild Breed" boxing, and the badges on the body side say "SS" which is kind of weird. I agree with 1972Coronet, with some new parts this can be a much better kit. I would also sugggest the following if possible: remove the carpet like texture on the bottom of the chassis and the engine block. Then with decals for the instrument panel it would be a very serviceable kit.

That would be a neat one to see again.

They have the best prices on just about everything, but the drawback is they take a while to ship. They are very transparent about the shipping speed, so I guess it just depends what is more important, the best price, or getting it quickly. One place mentioned above has the highest prices on everything but ships immediately. It is all a tradeoff.

It is the same tooling, which dates all the way back to 1977 ... so it is going to be ... well a 70s kit. My thinking is that an original issue will have the least mold lines, and flash I also have an engine from the monogram 1984? Monte Carlo which looks busier and as I recall has more belt driven accessories. I also found this engine at texas3d customs.. a "2nd gen SBC" which also looks busy and has more accessories but I am not sure if either is an accurate place to start. The problem with building an accurate 1978 corvette is, all the kits appear to be from 1978, just before the renaissance of plastic modeling in the 80s. To bring this back on track ... definitely use the RoG decals!

It does say "Printed in Italy" so it is reasonable to believe they are printed by Cartograf. I bought the RoG kit for the decals, they are really nice. I think I will use them on an original issue Monogram kit, so I have the best, crispest, flash free kit, and the latest , modern decals. The only thing holding me back is I want to find a way to make more detailed grills with separate turn signals. I made several mistakes on my 78 corvette and I really want a re-do.

I Built George Jones' 1978 corvette - it is tan and brown , but the same paint scheme as the pace car. It was very difficult to mask that stripe. My process was essentially your option 1. It can be done but getting the contour around the wheel opening was tricky, and I did not get it quite right. I sure wish decals were available! I want to build the Revell kit again because those decals look so nice.

Awesome - I'll find it and try it. Thank you for the suggestion.

I use the Solarizer light from solarez . It is awesome, and cures other uv resins which never seem to set properly with cheap lights. When I can use the Colad putty, it is a real time saver. I can just keep going instead waiting hours for putty to dry, or the minutes it takes CA. Now UV curing CA would be perfect... it would stick to everything and cure immediately. CA cured with accelerator just is not quite the same as letting it cure naturally. This is an exciting time, with new materials available to help us work even more efficently.

That is interesting. I have been using Colad UV Putty Fine ... it works but it can peel off the plastic, it works well in seam where you do not have to feather it. The key was getting a higher power UV light. This product looks interesting, easier to sculpt.

It looks like it is venting directly out the screen door. Do the fumes waft back in the house? Nice re-use of something you had handy.

What kind of paint did you use?