kurth

Nice system. I really like that dbx 3BX!

I have the "Wild Breed" boxing, and the badges on the body side say "SS" which is kind of weird. I agree with 1972Coronet, with some new parts this can be a much better kit. I would also sugggest the following if possible: remove the carpet like texture on the bottom of the chassis and the engine block. Then with decals for the instrument panel it would be a very serviceable kit.

That would be a neat one to see again.

They have the best prices on just about everything, but the drawback is they take a while to ship. They are very transparent about the shipping speed, so I guess it just depends what is more important, the best price, or getting it quickly. One place mentioned above has the highest prices on everything but ships immediately. It is all a tradeoff.

It is the same tooling, which dates all the way back to 1977 ... so it is going to be ... well a 70s kit. My thinking is that an original issue will have the least mold lines, and flash I also have an engine from the monogram 1984? Monte Carlo which looks busier and as I recall has more belt driven accessories. I also found this engine at texas3d customs.. a "2nd gen SBC" which also looks busy and has more accessories but I am not sure if either is an accurate place to start. The problem with building an accurate 1978 corvette is, all the kits appear to be from 1978, just before the renaissance of plastic modeling in the 80s. To bring this back on track ... definitely use the RoG decals!

It does say "Printed in Italy" so it is reasonable to believe they are printed by Cartograf. I bought the RoG kit for the decals, they are really nice. I think I will use them on an original issue Monogram kit, so I have the best, crispest, flash free kit, and the latest , modern decals. The only thing holding me back is I want to find a way to make more detailed grills with separate turn signals. I made several mistakes on my 78 corvette and I really want a re-do.

I Built George Jones' 1978 corvette - it is tan and brown , but the same paint scheme as the pace car. It was very difficult to mask that stripe. My process was essentially your option 1. It can be done but getting the contour around the wheel opening was tricky, and I did not get it quite right. I sure wish decals were available! I want to build the Revell kit again because those decals look so nice.

Awesome - I'll find it and try it. Thank you for the suggestion.

I use the Solarizer light from solarez . It is awesome, and cures other uv resins which never seem to set properly with cheap lights. When I can use the Colad putty, it is a real time saver. I can just keep going instead waiting hours for putty to dry, or the minutes it takes CA. Now UV curing CA would be perfect... it would stick to everything and cure immediately. CA cured with accelerator just is not quite the same as letting it cure naturally. This is an exciting time, with new materials available to help us work even more efficently.

That is interesting. I have been using Colad UV Putty Fine ... it works but it can peel off the plastic, it works well in seam where you do not have to feather it. The key was getting a higher power UV light. This product looks interesting, easier to sculpt.

It looks like it is venting directly out the screen door. Do the fumes waft back in the house? Nice re-use of something you had handy.

What kind of paint did you use?

I have been experimenting with UV curing clear resin. With a sufficiently powerful UV light I have been able to make a hard clear part. One member here posted the idea of using two part molding putty to make a mold. This works, but I have a hard time getting the putty into the grill without distorting it. I have been thinking about making conventional RTV rubber. Another idea I had, and have yet to try is to apply a decal to the chrome headlight, and put UV glue on top. I found headlight decals on ebay. This idea would work for models with a recessed square headlight, like the MPC 1980s squarebody, or the 1980 volare.

Is it safe to use something you are also using for food to dry paint?

I think Dave G already said it best, you have to get closer to the model and shoot it wet, which might be different than what you are used to.

That is very strange . Can you show us a picture? I have had really good luck with MCW Lacquer so I am curious about what happened to you. Not being able to tighten the bottle cap enough is also very unusual.

I build aircraft in addition to cars. I found the paints I use for other subjects also work great on car models. I use an airbrush for 95% of the things I paint. I really like Mr. Hobby Lacquers. Each 10ml bottle is typically under $3.00 I airbrush just about everything, and these paints are very forgiving when airbrushing. The thinner most commonly used is called "Mr Leveling thinner" which slows down drying slightly to allow time for the paint to level, ensuring a smooth finish. they have a Rapid thinner, and a "normal" thinner as well. Mr Hobby also makes a great line of primers called Mr. Surfacer . It comes in different grades, the Mr. Finishing surfacer 1500 is my favorite primer. Since this is a lacquer system, the paint dries fairly quickly. If you want, you can apply paint over Mr Sufacers in a few minutes. Tamiya Lacquer paint seems to be very similar, and available at a similar price point. There are also AK Real Colors which appear to be a similar kind of lacquer. I usually buy my paint from two very reputable sources: spruebrothers.com scalehobbyist.com Another great source is : megahobby.com The drawback is that these paints do not brush well. On the occasions I need to brush paint something I will usually use my hoard of Model Master, Testors small enamel bottles, Revell Email enamels, or sometimes Ammo of Mig acrylics. The thing I found with the dropper bottle acrylics is sometimes I need to remove the dropper and stir the paint to loosen up the pigment on the bottom, then shake it. After it is really well mixed it brushes well. If I want to paint a car body, I look for the color from MCW, or Splash paints. I have yet to use Splash paints, but I expect them to be pretty easy to use. I have also used Touch up paint from paintscratch.com and automotive touchup.com, which were pretty forgiving. If you are willing and able to shop at online hobby retailers, there are so many choices. If you are not ready for an airbrush, Tamiya spray cans are a great choice. I hope this helps to answer your question.

I am curious why the finish is different on the areas with under hood detail. Did you paint both the top and bottom of the hood? Is this paint so hot that it is softening the plastic or something? I am firmly in the camp of using an Airbrush and quality paints, but The chemistry and physics of what is happening with this paint is interesting.

I have finally tracked all of mine down, either through re-issues or through finding an old kit. If I stumbled across this one at a show (in one of it's various releases/manufacturers) I would probably scoop it up but I am not going to search for it: From what I have read, it is the best of the big Otaki cars. When I was a kid, the Countach was the coolest car in the world.

I was so focused on the 90s Chevy pickup when I was at the show I totally missed the 71 Demon, and did not hear about until I got home. I am interested in the Demon. It is exciting to get new kits from Round2.

That is a real shame, it looks like you did a great job on the paint, decals and chrome only to have that reaction with the paint. A lot of work ruined. I hope you are feeling better now.

How about 73-79 Corvette grilles for the 1/24 monogram kit? With a seperate part for the turn signal.

The Silverado kit is the one I am looking forward to. I hope the grille will fit the old 454SS kit.

That is a lovely satin finish, just right for suspension components.

I have airbrushed the white from that product line. I thinned it with mineral spirits. Since it is so thick, some modelers use it because it covers well. White in most model paints can be challenging to airbrush. It worked ok, it has been a while since I used it so I do not remember how long it took to dry. I also used it on the exterior of my house to touch up a spot, and it has been really tough.