Raul_Perez

I use the 1/8" wide ribbon. I bought white, black and red at the local craft store. I paint the white ribbon with a mixture of paint, white glue and water if I need a different color. 1) I stretch about 12 inches of ribbon out tight on a piece of glass and tape the ends in place; 2) mix and apply the paint/glue/water mixture, applying enough material so that it soaks completely into the ribbon; 3) once dry, I use a straight edge ruler and a new EXACTO blade to cut the ribbon to the width I need.

I was also a bit surprised the first time I used the Testors MM lacquer interior paints, thinking that there may be something wrong with the paint. I cleaned the nozzle, re-shook the can...same results...After noticing that it was a fairly even texture, I figured that it was supposed to be that way. I had two cans of their clear lacquer 2-part topcoat that did the same thing earlier in the year, but that's a different story... Maybe Testors should state on the label that it's a textured paint. Now that I know what it is I use it on all of my interior finishes, except for dash panels and parts that are supposed to be a smooth semi-gloss finish. Since I started using the 2-part Testors MM lacquer paints I've thrown all of the Testors gloss enamel spray cans, yes, even the unused ones, in the trash. All I kept were the flat colors since they dry well and I often use them for my military models.

Paul, Another great build!!! I also build dioramas, so I know what you mean by never really being finished. There's always something that you can add... This one looks great just the way it is. I really liked the air scoop!! Raul

Paul, Great build!! Those are the same exact body mods that I made to my Merc!! Oh well, so much for being unique. Where mine differs is in the interior, engine and wheels. I used the engine, tires, wheels, interior and mirrors from the '97 Mustang Cobra SVT. I painted mine Testors lacquer Plum Crazy with a light gray interior. I think that I'm going to use the Buick grill in mine. What a great kit!! Keep up the good work, Raul

Paul, That is too cool!! Great job with the detailing, weathering and close up pics!! It's quickly becoming "Rat-Rod" building weather in California and these photos inspire me to change gears from building glossy and glamorous models to outright DANGEROUS!! Keep up the good work and the posts, Raul

Good idea pinning the frame, Jonathan. That's something we typically forget to do while we're building, only to add it later during a repair. Thanks for the reminder and keep up the good work, Raul

My name is Raul Perez. I'm just a gray hair or two past 50 and have been modeling since AMT kits were $1.25. I remember riding my bike to the local Rexall Drug store in Sunnyvale whenever I had saved enough $$ to buy a new kit. Back then I only bought a new kit AFTER I finshed whatever I had been working on...what a concept... I was a professional autobody repairman for 10 years and have continued to do it on the side for about 25 years, which is probably why I struggle with not wanting to modify the body on almost every model I build. In my 20s I built almost all of the 1:12th scale Tamiya Formula One cars, switching off between building that same old Ford engine over and over by throwing in the occasional Ferrari and Matra. I also built a lot of the 1:16th scale Bandai classics that were rereleased under the ENTEX brand. Over the years I've traded them all away for more kits. Since I've been "married with children" for almost 25 years I've downsized my collection to mostly 1:24th and 1:25th scale. I dare say that I have too many Danbury Mint diecast cars, but everytime I do they come out with another great pro-street, hot rod, vintage classic... These days I've been building a lot of "Pro Touring" type of models like the one I use for my avatar. It's a 57 Chevy pickup done in a Corvette theme that I built for the '07 Santa Clara NNL. As I recall, Gregg and Steve really liked it. I know that Rex did. It'll be interesting to see how much you guys like the Revell '49 Merc that I'm building in a "Pro-Touring" theme. It's got the interior, engine, tires, wheels...from a '97 Mustang Cobra SVT with only very minor body mods. It's painted Plum Crazy with a light gray interior. Quite a radical departure from all of the other ones I've seen posted on the forum... Well, that's enough from me for now. Time to get that '49 Merc finished before the next NNL... Raul

Jarius, I think you guys have done a great job improving the magazine with each issue. I think that Roy did a good job getting it started as Plastic Fanatic, and that he's proud of what you guys have made of it. After 45 years of modeling, what I like to see most in the magazine (in my order of preference) are the: 1) model contest coverage photos, 2) Sketch Pad, 3) "how to" features, 4) articles that discuss which kits have which parts with comparisons, and, 5) kit reviews. As for the "Ask G&J" section, I browse through it, but rarely read the whole thing. Keep up the good work!! Raul

Jonathan, That's looking really good. The weather in CA is almost rat rod, military and Sci-Fi time, so I'll be breaking out the rat rod goodies pretty soon. I recently bought a couple of the Revell parts-pack Caddy engines that I want to build into a rat. Keep going an posting pics!! Thanks, Raul

Looking good, Lyle!! I just picked up one of these kits this morning. How well does the chrome trip fit? I'll probaly strip, apply and BMF it like you're doing, I'm just not sure when in the paint process to attach the trim. Raul

Yep...take a trip to your LHS and look for "how-to" books on weathering military and train models. You'll find some excellent tips and pictures. While you're there, pick up some of the pastel weathering powders in the train section. The stuff works great!!

No problem, Lyle. They sent me the brochure after I bought the limited edition '34 Ford "California Kid" earlier this year. If you're interested, I can scan the "Duece Coupe" brochure and post it, but it should be listed on the www.diecast.org website soon. They're pretty good about posting images from the brochures until they actually review the model. I saw the 1:1 "California Kid" car with all of the movie posters at the Good Guys show in Pleasanton a few months ago. The Danbury model is spot on to the 1:1 car. Raul

Lyle, Did you know that Danbury Mint is making an exact 1:24th scale model of the car on the cover of the magazine you posted? They call it the "Little Duece Coupe". Per the brochure they sent me, it will be a limited edition for '08 only. It is supposed to be available some time next year.

Rob, I like the custom parts on the 50 Ford. I've used them on different versions of the 49 and 50 Fords that I've built. If you can, use the chassis from the AMT '49 Ford kit. It has separate exhaust pipes that are NOT molded to the chassis. Raul

Steve, Thanks for the pics!! Now I now what modern muscle car I'll try to build for the next Santa Clara NNL...

Fred, That is really cool!!! You have to finish that one!! It would be a shame not to... Raul

I threw all of my Testors gloss enamel paint in the trash after I started using their lacquer paints about 2 years ago. I only kept the flat enamels. They dry pretty well and I still use them for my military modeling. As a retired autobody repairman and painter, I’ve been impressed with and have had great luck with the Testors lacquer paints. I’m particularly impressed with how well and quickly all of the colors cover, including the yellow and the metallic colors. Unlike the enamel gloss colors, I also found that I no longer need to heat the can before I paint to get good pressure from the can and good flow of the paint onto the model. I use “BONDO†brand automotive grade primer from a spray can whenever I need a good sandable filler to prep areas of the model that I’ve modified. It comes in red oxide, (which is really brown in color), gray and black. The local True Value Hardware store carries it in my area. Good luck,

GREAT JOB, Daniel!! Is that the photo etched grill from Model Car Garage? Raul

Good job, Matt!! I hope that Revell quickly realizes how many models like this that they can sell when they focus on making a new, high quality product that everyone wants. I'm building one right now with a '95 Mustang SVT Cobra interior and engine. After that I want to build a Pro/Street and probably a salt flat racer version. Then a... Raul

That was awesome!! Thanks for the link. I was planning on doing a drag car version and that gave me some great ideas on where to cut the car for the front end. Thanks, again, Raul

That's what I need!!! A paint rack!!! And, a fully stocked one at that!! I tried to get one from a hobby shop that was going out of business a couple of years ago, but that was one of the few things that the owner kept for himself. I did manage to buy the wall mounted display that he had for my N gauge trains...

Virgil, I know that I'm a bit late to comment on the build, but what would Frankie be without 2 large protruding brass bolts and a set of jumper cables in the bed?? I also build derelict dioramas and often get the "it would look so much better if you..." type of comments on them as well, so I just couldn't resist the opportunity to comment on the finished product. Great job and keep up the good work, Raul

Yep!! BMF is the way to go. I did this to the headlight rings on the Tamiya 1/12 scale Lola T70 back before there were photoetched parts... 1) Use a pointed scribe or a small drill to mark/dimple the 4 areas where the retaining screws should be on the clear part; 2) BMF the outer perimeter of the lense; 3) Use a new #11 blade to carefully cut the half-round area around the retaining screws; 4) Attach a "spacer" that extends about 1/8" below the tip of your new #11 blade to get the same width all of the way around the lense. (You can figure out how far the spacer should be from the blade if you use a photo for reference measurements...or you can just approximate.) 5) Cut the perimeter area between the retaining screws. 6) Make sure that your perimeter cuts meet the cuts that you made around the retaining screws BEFORE you remove the excess. Good Luck,

Yes, another great issue...and...yes, I get pretty tired of waiting for it to arrive...but...all is forgiven as soon as I have it in hand!! These days I'd have to rate you guys as the #1 car model magazine out there for content, especially show coverage, and I get them all...some are just sooner to arrive than others. On that note, when is the next one scheduled to arrive???

Milt, You could still use this method, but you'd have to use a 5 minute epoxy when you glue the hinge to the underside of the hood. Here's how I'd do it: 1) Make the hinge as described and superglue it to the top or front of the radiator support; 2) Place a small drop of paint on the portion of the hinge that will contact the hood, tape the hood in place and turn the model upside-down. "If" all goes well, you should have a small drop of paint on the hood where the hinge will make contact with it. 3) Place a small amount of 5 minute epoxy on the hood where the paint drop ended up; 4) Tape the hood in place and turn the model upside-down for 5-6 minutes (depending on how well you trust that your 5 minute epoxy actually sets up in 5 minutes); 5) Turn the model back over, remove the tape and "slowly" open the hood. "If" all went well, you now have a forward tilting hood. If not, you have a small amount of epoxy on the inside of your hood that you can probably clean off, if all else fails. If it works, I'd probably add a small amount of superglue where the hinge contacts the hood as an extra measure of security. Good luck, Raul