oldman23

Hi Everyone, I'm looking for 2 bucket seats and I'm not having any luck. I'm building a replica of a car and I'm looking for either kit seats or aftermarket seats without seat belts molded in. I already scrapped one seat trying to sand off the seat belts. The Styrene or whatever Model king uses sanded off like rubber. ANYWAY the picture below is the pattern I'm looking for. If nothing else I'll take 2 seats with just a vertical tuck and roll and I'll put in the Horizontal. Any help at all locating these would be nice I do have things to trade. Thank you Ernie

I agree with Treehugger Dave on this, I like to use flat black under blacks when I paint them and I use nothing but White primer for light colors. I was watching Chip Foose do a Chevelle in red. He used white primer but then he used bright yellow as a base coat. I've never seen this done before but it really made the red pop. I done a test panel the same way using model master acrylics and it really made the red brighter and deeper. Although I did screw up a body this week using white primer. I purchased it from Tower Hobbies, all it said was 10oz can white lacquer primer by Top Flight. It spayed on real nice and level and once it dried it turned into a real smooth gloss finish. I couldn't sand it because it is like Porcelain Enamel. Even Easy Off oven cleaner doesn't touch it. I sprayed it on a set of headers I made from solder after wiping them down with a tac cloth I spayed 2 coats out of the can. Today they are hard as a rock and smooth, They look like they just got back from the powder coater. Top Flight is for RC vehicles and I noticed it does say it is fuel proof. When I first read it I thought it said fool proof. Old age whatcha gonna do?

hey everyone If you want a copy of these decals I need your email address ernie ernie-p@cox.net MERRY CHRISTMAS AND IN GOD WE TRUST

Hi Everyone, I've been feeling kinda low lately with my Chemo treatments and such. I almost didn't make it last weekend I suffered respiratory failure and was rushed to the hospital but I'M STILL HERE. Allot of times I open a kit and find out they went all out with putting together great decals I can use to detail the engine and under the hood. But that seams to be a rarity most of the time. Most times you are lucky to get a license plate that is out of scale. I have been receiving my Chemo treatments twice a week now for the last few months and their isn't anything to do other then get sick while I'm hooked up to the I. V. So to keep busy I have been searching the Automotive restorers and Supply Houses for NOS, OEM, and Aftermarket Decals for full size cars. I have put a couple of sheets together and printed them out at home and after sealing them with Testors Decal Bonder they work good, You just have to cut close to the lines thats all. They are not the quality of a professional printing company but they look just fine. Also I had to print out two different sheets one on Clear Decal Paper and One on White Decal paper. I don't have the privilege of owning an Alps printer just an old HP 6122 Desk jet. I bought my Decal paper from Micro Mark for use with Ink jet and laser copiers and printers. The sheets are a full 8 1/2" x 11" and Office Max charged my wife $1.00 a copy for laser prints. They are fantastic every detail comes through. I didn't want to waste any paper so I had to fill them with decals. I have spent the last 2 months using Corel Draw, and Adobe Illustrator resizing the decals to scale. When I ran out of free ones I pilfered some from a few kits and cropped what I wanted. Like I said I put together 2 full sheets of decals and also 2 separate sheets that correspond to the decals to let you know what applications they are good for. I don't know how well the pictures turned out but Please take a look and if you would like a copy of the artwork, I'll be glad to email it to you with all the instructions on what you need and what your printer needs to be set at to print them. After printing is complete, I don't even bother to take the copy out of the printer for at least a half an hour so that the ink dries completely. I then let them dry over night before I seal them with Testor Decal bond. Their is over 2250 details between the two pages and I'm sure somebody out here is like me and likes to detail the chassis and under the hood area. If interested PM me or E-Mail me at ernie-p@cox.net This one I printed on White Decal paper This one I printed on Clear Decal paper Merry Christmas and Happy New Year Everyone For all you politicians out there repeat after me IN GOD WE TRUST.

When it comes to spraying aluminum wheels and intake manifolds that I want to look like cast aluminum and unfinished, I use SnJ Spray Metals aluminum (now Hawkeye's spray metals). I've been using them for quite awhile and Hawkeye bought them out Now they have a complete line of spray metals and polishing powders to brighten them up. They cost less than Alclad and they have actual metal in them so you MUST wear a dust mask or respirator when using the polishing powders. Here is a link to Hawkeye's and you can watch the instructional video, which is pretty good. I like the dull just cast look of an aluminum intake manifold, it just looks right. Hawkeye's Hobbies

Hi Everyone I need a 1/25th scale big rig Truck battery for for a kit I'm working on could anyone help me out I have parts to trade Please Pm me or E-Mail me at ernie-p@cox.net Thanks Ernie-P

Thank You Very much Don Ernie-P

Hi Everybody I just received a Nesco Dehydrator from a friend and it has temperature settings from 95 degrees to 155 degrees and it also has a Fan the blows from top to bottom. How long should it take to dry small parts such as intake manifolds and motors, seats and dash? What temperature is best? These items have been sprayed with 1 light coat and 1 medium coat of Floquil Enamel paint and they are all 1/25th scale. Also how long and at what temperature would I use to dry a body painted with Automotive Lacquer? Same question but for Automotive Enamel? I don't want to ruin the bodies, I already trashed one real nice painted body that I worked on for what seamed like months. I painted it and set the car outside under a cardboard shoe box that has several 3/8" holes on each side of the box. I forgot how hot it can get inside an enclosed area. After 2 hours I ended up with painted mush and it was only 118 degrees outside. Thank you Ernie P

Hi Everyone, I know allot of us use embossing metal for crunch panels and for filling in wheel wells ans such. I was looking for something to use to fill in the gaps in the wheel wells on the car I'm building. I remembered I had a roll of Muffler repair tape so I asked my son to see if he could find it. He brought it to me and I never really noticed how heavy it is until now. It is chrome Tape but it is metal just like a heavy foil. It mic's out at .005" without the backing and the roll is 2" wide. You can emboss it, shape it, and form it but don't try to pull it off once you remove the backing and burnish it in place. The glue they use will stick to rust so imagine how it sticks to plastic. I sanded it and sprayed some etching primer on it and it blended right in. A roll costs under $5.00 at the auto parts and there is five feet on the roll. Give it a try, I used a piece on an old scrap model to foil copy the front fender, once I burnished it down it stayed and then I crunched it up like it got hit in the front, I then removed the part of the fender that I wanted dented in with a small saw, afterward I slowly removed the backing from the foil copy and applied it over the remaining fender. Wow what a time saver it was and I used very little putty to blend it all in. It looks natural and very real and it is surprisingly ridged. I would post some pictures but my Daughter Borrowed my camera for a wedding. Give it a try it does work Ernie P

Hi Everyone Can someone tell me where to buy slot car motors on line or Does anybody have a used HO or 1/43rd slot car motor that was too slow or just not right they would be willing to part with. I don't have any Slots but I will trade Parts or George Washington's with you Please PM me or Email me with any and all info and what you need in exchange for a motor Thanks in Advance for all the help Ernie P ernie-p@cox.net Reason for Edit: I added text

Hi everyone First off I know nothing about slot car racing or how the cars are built. what voltage the motors are and what RPM they run at I don't know what size they are but I need a small motor to power my robots arm. I know I'll have to gear it down and thats not a problem the size is and voltage. can anyone help me out with motor dimensions voltage for HO, 1/43 and 1/32 scale and shaft diameters I am also looking for used motors in the same scale to try out without having to spend allot of money. Does any body have a used HO , 1/43rd or 1/32 slot car motor that was too slow or just not right they would be willing to part with. Please PM me with any and all info and what you need in exchange for a motor Thanks in Advance for all the help Ernie P

Hi everyone If your a tool guy like I am you become accustomed to using the same tools especially your files. When they start to get dull many people just throw them out or grind them down for a knife blade. Files are pretty reasonably priced unless you want a good one then you have to pay good money for it. Why throw it out just because it's getting dull? Years ago files were really expensive and the men that made a living with them carried them from job to job. An old German machinist taught me this years ago and it works on all types of files. the only thing you need to buy if you don't have one is a file card or file cleaner as they are sometimes called like the one I posted below. FILE CARD Take your half worn out files and clean them first then find a tin can like an empty paint can or coffee can put your files in it and fill it with tap water. Set the files outside so they can rust. Once the rust starts building up on the file, Simply use your file card and brush the file along the angle of the cutting edge. That's all their is to it. Since a file is so hard the only way to sharpen them is to let nature do it for you. I was a machinist and Machine builder and I still sharpen and use my Grand Fathers Files dated to the turn of the last century.

Hi Everyone Hi Gregg, Hi Harry, Could you please tell me what issue that Randy Derr's A.J. Foyt ASA Camaro was featured in. Thank You Ernie P

Hi Everyone Could anyone tell me if you know of some real simple snap kits. I'm looking for something simple for my grand kids to put together with my help of coarse. I'm not at all familiar with them and I'd like to get a couple with real low parts count Can anyone refer me to some ? Please PM me or E-Mail me direct ernie-p@cox.net Thank You Ernie

Hi Everyone Could anyone tell me if you know of some real simple snap kits. I'm looking for something simple for my grand kids to put together with my help of coarse. I'm not at all familiar with them and I'd like to get a couple with real low parts count Can anyone refer me to some ? Please PM me or E-Mail me direct ernie-p@cox.net Thank You Ernie

Hi Everyone, Does anyone know of an artist or someone that can draw pretty good. What I'm looking for is someone to draw up a decal for me . It's pretty simple stuff but I can't draw a straight line. When I was 15 my dad brought home a car for me to work on to get some experience. It was a 56 Chevy 210 2 door sedan. It was someone's old Super Stocker that they got rid of. On the rear quarter panel behind the tire well was a picture of Woodstock from the peanuts cartoon. It covered from the bottom to the top of the fender on both sides. Then along the entire length of the car was painted WOODSTOCK in log lettering you know like pieces of trees with the bark on it done in 3 dimension. If anyone knows of someone that can do this please let me know you can PM me or Email me at ernie-p@cox.net Thank You Ernie

Hi Everyone, does anyone know of an artist or someone that can draw pretty good. What I'm looking for is someone to draw up a decal for me . It's pretty simple stuff but I can't draw a straight line. When I was 15 my dad brought home a car for me to work on to get some experience. it was a 56 Chevy 210 2 door sedan. it was someone's old superstocker that they got rid of. On the rear quarter panel behind the tire well was a picture of Woodstock from the peanuts cartoon it covered from the bottom to the top of the fender on both sides. along the side of the car was painted WOODSTOCK in log lettering you know like pieces of trees with the bark on it done in 3 dimension. If anyone know of someone that can do this please let me know you can PM me or Email me at ernie-p@cox.net Thank You Ernie

Hi Everyone I just received the AMT 38453 --63 Ford 3 in 1 Advanced Customing Kit. The one with the retro box art. I opened it only to find the body in bad shape. The right rear Quarter panel Is wavy are they all like this? Ernie

Hi Everyone I said some of the kits were overpriced, if you see something you would like to have just PM me with a realistic offer I'm easy and I need the cash for medical expenses Thank You Ernie

Sorry guys I was editing the site and when I'm doing that it locks everyone out Ernie

Hi everyone As some of you know I am fighting with a bout of Cancer and it's hard to tell at this point who is going to win. Because of the cost of treatments I am selling all of my model kits. None of these are started. A Few I opened to get an idea what I needed to build them but most are Factory sealed. If you would like first shot at them Please go to my photobucket and see if their is anything you are interested in. I will be putting them on eModelCars shortly (as soon as I learn the program) and I am also posting them on EBay. You may see some of the prices are a couple dollars higher then you can buy them for somewhere else. I'm not trying to rip off anyone I took the prices off the web. While some of the old hard to find kits do cost more I don't feel the prices are out of line. Please think of it as a fund raiser to help a brother modeler beat Cancer. Who knows I may win after all and start begging for you to sell them back to me. If you are interested in anything please E-Mail me at ernie-p@cox.net or if you have any questions PM me and I'll answer them the best I can. Thank You Ernie http://photobucket.com/models_for_sale

Hi everyone As some of you know I am fighting with a bout of Cancer and it's hard to tell at this point who is going to win. Because of the cost of treatments I am selling all of my model kits. None of these are started. A Few I opened to get an idea what I needed to build them but most are Factory sealed. If you would like first shot at them Please go to my photobucket and see if their is anything you are interested in. I will be putting them on eModelCars shortly (as soon as I learn the program) and I am also posting them on EBay. You may see some of the prices are a couple dollars higher then you can buy them for somewhere else. I'm not trying to rip off anyone I took the prices off the web. While some of the old hard to find kits do cost more I don't feel the prices are out of line. Please think of it as a fund raiser to help a brother modeler beat Cancer. Who knows I may win after all and start begging for you to sell them back to me. If you are interested in anything please E-Mail me at ernie-p@cox.net or if you have any questions PM me and I'll answer them the best I can. Thank You Ernie EDITED: Hi Again I mentioned some of the kits were overpriced, if you see something you would like to have just PM me with a realistic offer I'm easy and I need the cash for medical expenses Thank You Ernie ***NEW KITS ADDED*** My Photobucket_models_for_sale ****IT'S FIXED....SORRY ABOUT THAT****

Well Mark They done a poor job on it. Ernie