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Dave G.

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Posts posted by Dave G.

  1. There hasn't been many models at Micheals stores in years here in the NE USA, least not of the three I visit.. I more go to Micheals because the wife and I do crafts and art painting. Hobby Lobby has much more for car models and once a week or every two weeks plastic models go on 40% discount for a day or two. The key is hitting the place on those days, who doesn't like a nice kit for nearly half price , even if to stash it if it's something you know you will be enthused to get to! But still not stocked like a really well stocked actual Hobby store. We have one of those in the area, he marks things up though, not down.

  2.  Rustoleum 2x decanted, thinned slightly more with lacquer thinner and airbrushed, comes out as nice as any hobby enamel I've ever shot. They may also have a safety yellow that may be good. But this assumes the OP wants to go the extra steps. If anyone is not willing to take any extra steps with any Rustoleum paint, then just stay away from the stuff is my suggestion.

    I've shot this stuff over Stynylrez primer which is a poly acrylic primer and sealer.

    What I'm not a fan of is trying to paint a model with Rustoleum 2x from the can. If you do that, heat the can in very hot tap water and shake liberally, repeat until the can remains warm to the touch. Now try spraying it. Rustoleum 2x settles, you gotta get the solids and resins all mixed in or the stem to the nozzle will hopelessly clog. There is nothing inherently wrong with 2x as an enamel paint as long as you use a primer sealer on the model. Of the two methods I mentioned, I much prefer the first. It's a thinner method,you can build on your coats and there is less waste with improved flow out.

    That said, I'm slowly turning over to Tamiya LP lacquers.

  3. 11 hours ago, peteski said:

    Not just any primer: WHITE PRIMER.  Unless of course the bare plastic is already white with no body work done to it.  Yellows, oranges and pinks (or any light color) are notoriously translucent, and white base coat will make the color "pop", while gray primer will make it look dull.

    Thanks, ya I should have included that info. Yellow can be fussy with what color is under it, in whatever iteration.Be that acrylic ( water borne), lacquer or enamel.

  4. Id use craft paint in a heart beat but then Im used to it, having worked with it airbrushing for years. One note, you need primer. Second note you, need a couple of light initial coats and flash them off fully before getting to the heavier coats. Createx thinner is a good choice, though I make my own knock off of it that works just as well. And the third point: you need to clear coat this stuff. Both for gloss and to seal it.

    On the other hand Chrome Yellow is very close and a one shot deal in a spray can. I imagine the Tamiya is fine, my experience was with Model Master enamel, no longer made. With MM, spray it you were done.

  5. I make my own green from craft paints. Really though, there are a few that are close enough from the bottle, especially if you add weathering. And unless you're building something off the showroom floor, it's going to be weathered. Not to mention the factory colors even varied some.

    As far as the red goes, weathered red flatheads were pretty faded. I doubt most hot rodders kept that. Pictures I've seen of hot rod flatheads in red are pretty much fire engine red. Testors bright red is fine in that case.

    • Thanks 1
  6. Ive decanted Rustoleum 2x , thinned it with lacquer thinner and airbrushed it over Stynylrez primer/sealer and it's turned out awesome. There are a few good colors or some basic colors mixed with their white that makes for some good classic car pastel colors. After thinning and airbrushing it comes out as nice as any model enamels do.

    The key to my statement above is " I've " past tense. With the advent of paints like Tamiya LP lacquers it's just less work and faster dry time to use those, with even nicer results. Those I've shot to bare plastic for small stuff or over Mr Surfacer otherwise.

    I already posted my sentiment on primers in another post, so I'm not going there. By the way, is the OP poster still in this thread or are we just conversing with one another here, minus him ?.

  7. Rustoleum primer is basically enamel primer, various solvents to speed initial dry but still enamel. Enamels have a long cure process. I deemed it unusable for basing models. I tried a can, gave it one shot on a scrap piece and by smell alone I knew it was not lacquer. It smelled the same as every other enamel based primer I ever used and so returned it, since I told the hardware store guy ahead of time ( they have a return policy). You have to be careful what you spray over enamels, not to mention when you do it. Hotter Lacquer in particular wrinkles the stuff all up. I never use enamel primers.

    • Like 2
  8. I think it's just the perspective between the Cord and Packard, even in real the Cord is low and wide appearing compared to most of the bigger classic era cars. The Deusenberg seems narrow, long and high as well, when compared with the Cord ( I've built both though decades ago). I suspect the Packard is to scale.

    All those Monogram classics build up into nice models at any rate !

    • Like 1
  9. 10 hours ago, kymdlr said:

    Thread bump. 

    this is airbrushed splash paints lacquer base with a rustoleum lacquer rattle can clear. This clear is usually my go-to with no problems. The base was perfectly smooth. When I sprayed on the clear, it immediately started to wrinkle and finished with this. Any thoughts on what went wrong?



    The only paints I put Rustoleum clear lacquer over confidently is artist acrylics and craft paints. Never an issue, goes great. I wouldn't ever put Rustoleum lacquer over any enamel as hot lacquer over enamel is a well known issue, or even the hobby lacquers, as it's too vague as to what those lacquers really are. Or for that matter some of the hobby acrylics even. Certainly not without testing.

    The clear's solvents and carrier attacked your color coat, as has been mentioned. The color coat and Rustoleum lacquer are not compatible.

  10. 7 hours ago, Lunajammer said:

    Pretty much every general use, hardware store spray paint states it's safe to use on plastic unless it's a specialty, limited use paint. A quick search of every general use brand I can think of states it's safe to use on plastic. Yet here we are.

    The best I can say to that is there are many types of plastics. Household plastics vary but at that they probably/most likely are not like the styrene in modern models. The can says plastics but it's not specific, the first thing that comes to my mind is lawn or deck furniture or plastic trim pieces around the house,flower pots etc. Not model kits at any rate.

    Now that said, when my kids were young and we did a bunch of model train kits I used a lot of Krylon primers back then. But Krylon has changed formulation at least two times that I know of since then. Never had an issue with the old Krylon primers on kit plastic in model trains at any rate.

    • Like 2
  11. 11 hours ago, Monty said:

    In one of my early posts above I kind of explain that.  I'm just not a big fan of acrylics and don't have much experience with lacquers.  I've used enamels for almost all of my model building since I started the hobby, so suffice it to say it's a comfort zone thing. 

    Monty, If you're airbrushing enamels, I think you will find yourself just as comfortable with Tamiya LP Lacquers. Thin them with Mr Leveling thinner around  50/50. They go on beautifully, gloss paints retain full gloss when dry and dry time is minutes not days or weeks. Maybe give them a try and see for yourself. Try the gloss black on some old Model A fenders or something, amazing. My first test of the stuff was the black on 34 Ford pickup fenders. I shoot this stuff with a Paasche H, thinned like that I use around 18 psi.

    You can also use the Tamiya LT to thin them, just after your last coat load whatever paint is left in your cup with thinner ( even medium dry hardware store LT will work)and blow that right over the finish before dry, it will totally level right out. Just with Mr Leveling thinner you don't need that. Anyway, the nice thing about these lacquers is it's about impossible to make them run. Also any lingering odor is gone within a half hour or so. Any over spray melts right into the previous coat too.

    • Like 1
  12. Nah, it's simple if you don't do a deep dive: Nitro lacquer which is made from tree resins as the base. And synthetic which is plastic resin or acrylic. That's in the base. I just never thought of acrylic lacquer primers but I've shot plenty of acrylic lacquer colors in automotive refinishing and nitro in wood working.. Now I know. But I have no interest in molecular stuff, my brain is clogged up enough after 73 years of this world.

    What boggles my mind ( and it can stay that way) is water solvable oil paints, you can use linseed oil or water. And it's water clean up. Stranger than that, it works. And I can say that because I've used it, yup smells like oils, cuts with water or oil, It should be an oxymoron.

  13. 2 hours ago, peteski said:

    Well, today's lacquers aren't made from beetles - they use synthetic resins.  That is where this generalization modelers use that anything "acrylic" is automatically water-based and an enamel is not helpful.

    True lacquer to me is made from cellulose, IE nitrocellulose lacquer. Yes today it's synthetic, true. And there is acrylic lacquer, I just never thought of it that way for primers.

    The beetle thing sometimes called lacquer over seas ( mostly Asia) is actually what we see in our stores here as Shellac. It's made from the secretion of the lac bug.  That stuff coats tree limbs and is flaked off. Take that and mix it with alcohol, it melts into the liquid and you have shellac. I have never known of any model primers or paints made from this, though it makes a good stain sealer, so I guess in that sense you could call it primer or at least sealer.

    • Like 1
  14. 15 hours ago, peteski said:

    Surfaces used for paint compatibility testing:

    Yes, plastic spoons can be made from various plastic resins (yes all plastics are resins).  With the recycling push all over the world, you can easily tell what you are buying.  Look for the recycling symbol on the spoon packaging.  #6 is Polystyrene (which is as close to the kit's plastic as possible). If it is not #6, don't buy it.

    Bottles are usually soft plastic (soft drinks, medicine, etc). Again, they should all have the recycling symbol.  They will likely not be polystyrene, but are still useful for testing paint combinations to see what the finish will look like.  Soft  drinks bottles are usually PET (#1 or 2), and medicine bottles are Polyropylene (#5).

    Recycling symbol is your friend!


    This post runs on a bit but it's good info I believe:

    That's a great chart ! My amber prescription bottles are indeed pp #5.

    But here is an interesting fact for all, on the pp bottles, Stynylrez primer sticks best, better even than Mr Surfacer, both in terms of scratch and tape pull tests to pp #5, I've conducted. But on model plastic the roles are pretty equal if not leaning slightly toward the Mr product.. Here is an even better observation, Tamiya LP lacquer sprayed directly onto each surface with no primer fails badly on pp #5 but sticks like iron to styrene model kit plastic ( shouldn't be a surprise since it's formulated for kit plastic).  The only reason I see for the primer on the model plastic is color control, surface evenness  prep etc. Not so much adhesion.  And it's nearly the same result for Tamiya X series acrylics. Waterborne acrylics however need the primer to stick and with primer do very well at it. Without primer the stuff could flake off and has for many people unknowing of that fact.

    Anyway I have no qualms about using Mr Primer/Mr Surfacer or Stynylrez on models. Either is sufficient, however Stynylrez is both primer and sealer. That can have advantages when needing a sealer.

    Some folks may not know this, Mr Surfacer is not really a lacquer primer. Read the label sometime ! It's a very good primer though.

    Another tidbit: you can thin Stynylrez with hardware store medium dry lacquer thinner, close to 50/50 and in so doing you will get a crazy smooth satin finish from it. I learned that over in the FSM forums, so of course had to do it. Beautiful result. I use it on frames and water hoses etc as color coat in the black Stynylrez. And as a further note, Klean Strip brand hardware store lacquer thinner comes in two formulas now, labelled at the top of the front of the can. Fast dry and Medium dry.

    • Like 1
  15. 10 hours ago, Roadrunner said:

    Of all the great advice which has been offered here, and I appreciate all of it, this really strikes home. I use the spoons just to check various paints to achieve a color I like, but ever gave a second though to compatibility issues, as such. So, I intend to try a combination that already worked on a spoon, but try it again on a couple of parts from the same kit (Revell '32 Ford Sedan), that I know I'll never use otherwise, so thanks very much for that thought. I'll post the results here in a few days.

    I use the amber prescription bottles ( God knows I build up a collection of empties fast enough !), primer is a must for a couple of reasons to include that the amber color bothers the color output/rendition. But more than that I learned some time ago that tape pull tests will fail much easier on those bottles, as well as scratch tests compared to kit plastic. As Ace mentioned, I too use extra hoods or inside of body shells etc for my final tests.

    • Like 2
  16. On 10/31/2023 at 11:45 PM, Pierre_tec said:

    Interesting, I heard about glycerin but haven’t about dawn!

    I have try many times, doing te famous spoon test,but never achieved a nice result. I follow a great YouTuber also a fellow member called Stumpy Grumps Scale speed shop that he paint mostly craft paint with amazing results. 

    Glycerin works. Dish soap is quite old school but I like it. The key with any of this stuff as flow aid is don't over do it. Honestly I like the results I get with dish soap better than glycerin. But that's me, someone else might think otherwise. You can also add commercial flow aid, like Liquitex or Vallejo. Again carefully.

    The biggest key in the formula in terms of additives, I make up is the Liquitex slow dry fluid retarder. That stops the tip dry with craft paints and artist acrylics. Don't mistake Liquitex retarder medium for the fluid, they are two different products.

    • Like 2
  17. On 10/31/2023 at 11:37 PM, bh1701 said:


    Here is the recipe one of the members gave me for a homemade thinner for craft paints. Please note that his last sentence mentions that DecoArt paints don't do well with this recipe.:

    60% bottled or filtered or distilled water.

    40% 91 IPA

    For every 3 oz of this blend put 4-6 drops of Liquitex retarder. (The Liquitex retarder is their Slow Dry Retarder Fluid, not their retarder medium. The medium is not for airbrushing. I bought this retarder from an online store since neither Michael's or Hobby Lobby carry it.)

    For every 3oz of that blend put in a trace amount of Dawn dish washing liquid ( Just a trace amount, not even a drop from the bottle. Use the pointy end of a wooden barbecue skewer and just get a film on the end and mix that in), this breaks surface tension in the paint mix.

    This blend Works in most acrylic paints but DecoArt doesn't like the alcohol. And many craft paints come closer to spraying like solvent paints with this blend.

    I have not used this formula yet, but plan on trying it with the next kit I use craft paint on.



    Yes that's my formula. Works great with FolkArt, Apple Barrel, Anita's, And real well with Craft Smart. I have another blend for DecoArt. Works well with Createx but better with a small amount of denatured alcohol added, since Createx 4011 reducer is very close to the same formula.

    Here is a Mustang with basecoat Rose Gold Silver craft paint shot with that formula. This is out of the airbrush untouched. The second photo should be the same body with Tamiya clear blue over the craft paint unpolished.

    And is a 39 Ford sedan in craft paint with Tamiya clear over it un polished.

    49 Ford craft paint base and a combo of Tamiya Clear red mixed with a splash of Clrear Blue, 5 coats of the clear. This is not sanded or polished either.

    thumbnail_20191025_165950 base.jpg

    thumbnail_20191026_144602 top.jpg

    thumbnail_20191026_144615 top coat.jpg

    thumbnail_20190925_074454 39 sedan.jpg

    thumbnail_20191109_084650 49 Ford.jpgthumbnail_20191109_084650 49 Ford.jpg

  18. 4 minutes ago, espo said:

    They can be hard to find since I don't think they are issuing them anymore. The kit gives you the grills to build a '42 and the '46 and '47 as well. They also offered a two-door sedan and a sedan delivery. Excellent engine with a nice 3 carb setup and some chrome bits for the engine. There have been many pictures posted here in the past. Very tight parts fit and well detailed, you might want to look over the instruction sheet before starting.  


    Wow that looks awesome and sounds it as well !

    I found one at a hobby store listed online. Ebay is nuts on price for used but they do have a scant few listings.

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