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Dave G.

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Posts posted by Dave G.

  1. 6 hours ago, wisco8 said:

    Thank you Bill. I think I'm going with the Mr color 76 which is a metallic blue and also use their GX 100 super clear III both can be thinned with Mr color leveling thinner. I have had great success with this paint.

    Kind regards, Steve

    I originally looked up some Mr Color blue metallic, thinking of your thread. I came to the same C76 conclusion. But do a few test shots over lighter base colors under it or light primers. It may render a bit dark but appears to have the right tonal range of blue, or hue, might be a better word.. It's hard to tell on a computer screen though, so didn't post the info.

  2. We're just stabbing in the dark here, trying to hit preferences of era etc. But I might as well put in a choice or two. The AMT 53 Ford pickup builds up pretty nice, it's straight forward. A second choice for me anyway, would be the Revell 37 Ford, which gives an optional hood and grill for a 38.

    I'd like to say from my nostalgia nerve, the AMT 60 Chevy, but the last time I opened a box to one was probably 1961. So I don't dare recommend it.

  3. So the search is on for the nearest spray can match. And let the airbrush vs spray can thread die. He said he is not interested in airbrushes and why.

    Duplicolor has the exact match, living with the flakes is the compromise. Beyond that, I don't know what Krylon might have. Tamiya has TS-20, play with undercoat color to put on first ( maybe black primer will check mark the box). And they have a darker green too. The color will be off, but it will be loose, in the ball park green.

    I just wanted to add, that there have been reports of Duplicolor being too strong/hot/aggressive for some newer kit plastic. Be it the primer or the color, crazing the plastic, I do not recall. Point being, test first on some piece from the kit you're building.

  4. 1 minute ago, Jim B said:

    Paint does seem to go all over the place with spray cans.  Especially if you're using Rust-oleum (assuming you can get it to work) or Krylon.

    Rustoleum 2X I use straight from the can for lawn furniture. It's gone in one session. But I have decanted certain colors, added a bit of lacquer thinner and airbrushed it. It comes out as nice as Testors enamels do.

  5. 1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    That is true.

    It’s one of the very few advantages that they have over an airbrush.

    But, when it comes to my desire to do the very best with my builds that I possibly can, the main advantages of a spray can, (ie easy, quantity and price) hold very little weight with me.

    Just my opinion.

     

     

     

     

    Steve

    Not to mention the wasted paint with spray cans. Clouds of paint goes off into the air.

  6. I've trimmed back my process using lacquers to where I just spray even a body into a kitchen sized trash can with a liner in it. There is no obvious over spray into the room of any significance. And any lingering fumes are gone in 10 minutes using LP lacquer. It's a bit different with acrylic because the pressure is higher, there is a slight sign of over spray around the can. Enamels I generally use the booth or go outside, because those I spray up near 30psi to get the kind of finish I learned to get over decades of use. But everything goes into a dehydrator to dry. I just close up the liner to the trash barrel after. I use an approved mask for any blow back mostly. Ten minutes after the paint session you wouldn't know I did it.

    Now I did some spray can paint in my upstairs bathroom yesterday with Zinzzer Bulls Eye, getting ready to paint the celing. It needed some stain blocked first. With a window wide wide open and fan going , two hours later it had enough smell that when my wife walked in the house an hour or more later, she could smell it. Plus over spray settled on things, including my old geans I was wearing. That's the difference between spray can and airbrush, if you have your airbrush system nailed down. I rarely use my booth with the airbrush. It's easier for me to grab the can and mask. Heck this spring I even shot enamel into my trusty can ( the wife was out for a rehearsal with the church trio she formed). But same thing, close up the liner, pop the model in the dehydrator and no fumes within a few minutes. Plus it was Testors enamel which isn't the strongest smelling stuff I've used. The paint came out beautiful.

    With the trash can, I use whatever object will fit up inside the body with a loop of double sided tape on the end. I hand hold the body to whatever position I want, where I always shoot downward onto the surface. In this way you get the best flow out on the surface, and over spray shoots into the can liner. 18psi vs nearly 30 for enamel makes a big difference. And airbrush nozzles are way lower volume than spray cans. Spray cans indoors to me are impossible. I spray art work all the time, or when I don't brush varnish anyway, and do that outdoors. But yesterday would have been tough to move the bathroom ceiling outdoors lol ! But it was quick and done with. Just aired out the rest of the day.

    If you made it this far, just praise God, always worthy of praise !

  7. 4 hours ago, Jim B said:

    Mike,

    I've never hand painted car bodies, just parts.  The part I used the MCW Finishes Chrysler Blue on was the engine for my 1978 Dodge D100:image.thumb.jpeg.ace504946147c4c5cddad63f11684918.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.eadaf14312fdbac8119cad36338efd68.jpeg

    Didn't come out too bad in the end, but getting it there was a real struggle.  Paint just didn't want to cover.  Probably because it's designed to be airbrushed.

    Steve,

    I have been considering purchasing an airbrush & paint booth for quite a while now.  I should probably just "bite the bullet" and get them.

    Ultimately, it seems that's the conclusion most of us get around too. In my case it was 1975, after 15 or so years of rattle cans.

  8. 11 hours ago, Jim B said:

    Thanks,David. I was kind of suspecting that I'd have to go automotive lacquer. I'll have to hunt around. Guess we have Rust-oleum for canceling the Testors Model Masters line.

    A quick search online will get you the Duplicolor..  One place I saw listing your lighter green was Autozone. But the only thing with this route is often the metallic flakes are out of scale, making the finish appear metal flake in 1/25th. Just sayin.

  9. The One Shot sounds interesting. But honestly in over 60 years of building models, many of those years using enamel, I can off the top of head count on one hand how many times I fully clear coated a model. And most of those yellowed. Enamel comes out so nice without clear, and I build mostly really old classic cars, so not much need for clear. And my experience with clear enamel, is that yellowing.

    These days, I may or may not use enamel depending on mood. But I have to agree with the poster who suggests the LP lacquers. Awesome paints, right there.

    • Like 2
  10. I notice too that Hobby Lobby here locally, has cut down their selection of model kits. I would say 1/3 less or maybe even half, from a year or two ago. Also I don't see the 40% off on plastic models sign as often. Or else I've just hit it wrong. This is SE MA USA. We have a well stocked hobby store less than a mile away from HL, if you can stand his prices. But they have about every kit out there, currently in production from major brands.

    • Like 2
  11. 1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

    Me, I'd go black.  I just think the British Racing green is blackish. I've seen some models painted and it's too greenish.  Just my 2-cents.😊

    Well, Bill mentioned testing before painting the model for leaching red plastic. This thought you have is another reason to test shoot over various color primers. I shot Thicket Green for a build. The differences in test shoots were all over the place. In my testing I found black primer to produce the most faithful rendition.  I really wasn't expecting it either, as Thicket Green was quite dark already. White primer was impossible with that color, grey just wasn't right, black did it. Dark grey might have worked too but I never tried it.

    • Like 1
  12. You will very likely need a sealer of some sort to keep the red from leaching through to your color coat ( as mentioned above). The silver pre paint is one method. Some folks like a shellac based sealer like Binns, first. It's white. If you were shooting acrylic or enamel, I'd suggest Stynylrez primer, which is a  sandable poly acrylic primer/sealer. But some lacquers if hot enough can get sand scratch swelling with this. I don't know how hot SMS is..

    Anyway, you want to seal that red.

  13. You can expect clear enamel to yellow over white, so I'd keep the layers as thin as possible. If to use clear over the white and knowing the white is lacquer, I'd personally use clear lacquer if anything. With a little elbow grease, a couple extra coats of white probably could have been buffed up without the clear. But you're past that point right now, so keep the clear thin is my suggestion.

    As to the green, the clear will yellow there as well but you will notice it much less. That said, I rarely clear coat enamel finishes, they come out awesome IMO, without clear. But then I don't build gassers with lots of decals. At least not anymore, I did back in the 1960's. That's when I learned about clear enamels yellowing. Actually in the early 70's I had clear coated a top fuel dragster with a lot of white decals over blue. Put away for a house move, I took it out about a year later to find a blue and yellow dragster, lol !

  14. You can mask right over the soft top panel lines. Recess them ( burnish if you will) into the groove using the back side of a plastic knife. Then cut the line using a new sharp single edge razor blade made for scrapers or the small box cutters. These are sharp but have the support on the back edge. You can buy these by the dozen or even 100 in a box for a few bucks. These are sharper than a #11, stiffer than a scalpel blade. Then just peel up the inner portion of tape. Just cut slowly, it takes little pressure and is easy to do.

    Now with that masked, paper off the rest and spray the panel. You will get a clean sharp edge..

  15. I saw a video on one of these where there were three settings for pressure, adjusted by a press of the on off switch to get to each increase in pressure. Seems to me something around 20 psi up to 31.. .3 needle seems common on them all. The videos I watched all use acetone for thinner and cleaning. They were nail polish kits.

  16. Enamel and acrylic have different dry/cure rates. You will want to be sure the enamel is well cured, as it's weeks or even months compared with acrylic. Before success gets etched in stone, it could be months or a year before you find a failure. So just be aware. I've seen acrylic top coat peel off of solvent based paints, like enamel or lacquer. And I've seen the entire finish wrinkle 2-3 months down the road. And I've seen all go well. Just sayin, I wouldn't make statements on this spoken with too broad a brush

  17. 46 minutes ago, Radretireddad said:

    How long have you found it takes for a dehydrator to fully cure one of your paint jobs?

    With Tamiya acrylic, I give it a couple of hours. Then to be sure, a couple of days in room air. It's usually pretty hard after that. Usually 106- 108F . If I just want to be able to handle the parts, 30 minutes will do.

    I can do pretty much what I want with craft paints after 30 minutes to an hour. 105f

    Enamels I do six hours for decent handling and it still needs days in the air to be fully cured. Some people consider it cure coming out of the dehydrator after 10-12 hours. I'm not in a rush, I just want it to be handle-able. It's enamel I do at 110F ( I had said Tamiya at 108-110 but no, it's enamel that gets 110. In fact if I've tested the plastic I'll go 112f.

  18. Much depends on the abrasive itself. In the model world it seems hard to find a standard. For instance, I use a version of micro pads. But to say 3000 is something standard seems optimistic at best. 3000 in my set seems more like 800 or 1000 in 1/1 sand paper. I'd never scuff Tamiya lacquer with it. Starting around 5500 or 6000 would be more realistic. I don't do much sanding of lacquer color coat if I intend to clear coat though. Just knock off any little dust nibs. Then put down about 5 coats of clear. Plus scuffing metallic before cleat coating can be something of a diminished return. However, if Tamiya lacquer goes on real nice, it will be very glossy if it's a gloss paint, I see no need to clear coat it on the classic cars I tend to build. Same for enamels, I've never seen the need to clear coat enamel finishes if put on right.

    Paints in lacquer, like MCW or Scale Finishes is another matter. These are automotive lacquer, much hotter than Tamiya and much harder surface. They also don't dry super glossy to begin with. Most folks just plan on clear coating that stuff. It's often used as a color coat/clear coat system, perhaps rightfully so.

  19. 8 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

    Well its sure is a pretty and unusual color. 

    You can make pink pearl by using pearl white with a little of that magenta in it. I'm planning that on a T Bird build. Supposedly my wife wants to build it, it's her kit. We shall see. She already built a yellow 1960 Bird, so ya. I sprayed two 60 T Birds with Createx, one yellow, one blue. They were the little 1/32 AMT curb side kits.

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