Dave G.
-
Posts
1,374 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Dave G.
-
-
Testors sells enamel reducer/thinner, comes in a red can and says enamel right on the can. I haven't used it since the early 1970's but they still sell it.
-
3 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Yup. I kinda seem to recall somebody said that earlier...
?
-
1 hour ago, Force said:
Today many or even most who builds hot street and race engines use MSD distributors and coils together with a MSD ignition box like MSD 6, 7 and 8 and on the digital programmable versions you can do your own ignition curves and lots of other stuff.
Indeed, that stuff was all coming in to mainline as I was getting out of racing. Be good to know the era being modeled here in the thread.
-
A lot of people mounted with rear distributor engines mounted Accel Super Coils on the firewall fwiw. Basically a yellow box looking thing. When I drag raced I used the Accel replacement coil mounted on the fender well ( Ford FE engine) which had quite a bit more than stock spark in itself, between that and Yellow Jacket wires, my own internally modified distributor and ignition was never my problem. I used the Accel cap and rotor too which were tan colored. The Accel system I'm sure would fire a street/strip blown small block.
-
Personally I'd look for a Minicraft sedan, it's all stock and 1/16 scale besides. Be careful you don't land a sedan delivery though, they made both. Just my opinion,.
-
Well you have plenty of paint, you could lightly scuff with the steel wool and see what you get. It undoubtedly will be smoother feeling but it may change the tone or make uneven tone though a smoother finish, I've seen that happen. In that case reshoot your color coat.
Last year I shot a 39 Ford sedan in craft paint in a build off with another guy from this forum. We really had a good time sharing back and forth in email too. Anyway, on my last coat of green this chunk of dirt landed right in the roof. Big ugly chunk of something. I stuck the body in my dehydrator and 30 minutes later sanded it out and shot two more coats of the green. And I'm glad in a way because those two coats while flat green paint turned out satin smooth. In a couple of days as time allowed I shot the clear Tamiya X-22 without incident. I never sanded that car, I went with Colgate tooth paste then Formula 1 scratch out. I still haven't waxed it actually.
-
Mike yesterday you said you didn't like the feel of the Createx finish on your Oldsmobile. In what way, is it lumpy or something ? Or do you mean the rubbery feel of the color coat ? Then you were going to scuff and put down another coat. I've done that with craft paint, adding more thinner for that final coat. It comes out pretty ready for clear coating with whatever clear. But that's craft paint, can't speak for Createx.
-
I can see this is a real struggle for you. If you steel wool and shoot another coat then what ? Or put another way, what are you trying to gain ? Base coat doesn't need to come out like top coat or clear, it needs to be uniform, smooth is always nice. From your photos at least, it looked pretty good as a base coat assuming the color is something you want.
-
53 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Well, I just don't know. Sounds daunting?
Maybe one of the Createx shooters has a better idea.
-
1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:
So did it come off fairly easy??
Once I figure the back side of a butter knife scraped the stuff right off and didn't dig up the plastic, no not hard at all. Prior to that was two to three days of soaking and buffing the thing with a tooth brush, that was a joke trying to do it with that foolish thing.
-
1 minute ago, TransAmMike said:
Kind of a tough decision for me on this one. But it seems all MY decisions are tough. Maybe I overthink too much?
I told you about the Mustang body I think. What I didn't tell you is the model was basically all built but the wheels to put on. Popped it apart, even got the glass out without breaking it and kasplush into the pond. ? Hey, the color was bugging me !
-
17 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:
Not sure I have it in me to tackle stripping all that paint off. Just getting the paint off the hood was a chore tho I didn't use the "purple pond" method.
Purple pond isn't all that powerful anyway, the stuff doesn't seem to be what it used to be.?
-
7 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
OK all you Guys' who have chimed in on this lengthy thread I started with your opinions and suggestions I think I have come to a drastically different conclusion.
After beating the Createx subject to death and looking long and hard at my Cutlass paint job, I've pretty much decided to go the Scalefinishes route.
I just don't like the look and feel of the finish and really don't want to clear it and have to deal with removing it if it still doesn't look good enough for me.
So my next question, can I spray the Scalefinishes base over the Createx acrylic (after sanding of course or steel wooling) or should I reprime it over the Createx??
I know there will be some interesting comments so bring it on LOL.
You're not gonna like my reply Mike: I'd strip it back to plastic and start over from primer on up and have done it myself so I know where you're at. I use the purple pond ( Purple Power) treatment but there are other ways.
Just me being me, my answers are never an easy swallow it seems ! The thing is if you leave the Createx on there you still have that rubber like base plus and you're building thickness too.
-
10 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
Good to know Dave. The guage is new and liquid filled so it won't wobble. I still think I wasn't payng attention to the pressure after the first release of air.
Ok Mike.
-
2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
"10/4" Dave. I'm thinking I was only paying attention to the initial pressure drop so most likely it was only dropping a very small amount while spraying. I still haven't figured out how to get a good thinning mix although I did try some Folkart black enamel craft paint mixing it with the Createx 4012 and 4030 and got a darn smooth finish on a spoontest. It actually dried to a slightly shiny finish, maybe a more than satin.
Unfortunately the weather here south of Nashville for net week is about to go downhill, highs in the mid to 30's so no painting in the garage next week.
As alwaysl, I look forward to your comments my friend.
You may have a wacky gauge or regulator. I've never seen a 10lb drop even shooting 1/1 with full size spray guns back in the day of shooting 60 psi. I'd be inclined to crank the pressure and run a line to a secondary regulator but I know you like to conserve money. I just happen to have a Point Zero on hand though.
I use black FolkArt a lot, the color name is Licorice, I use it on running boards and stuff. But FA in general sprays nice, I make my own thinner I use in craft paints. It's good to hear the Createx thinners work in it non the less. I also use Aztek thinner in DecoArt, DA doesn't like alcohol very much so I make a blend of my own with the Aztek and that works well in DecoArt. The other day I took a metallic FA, thinned it with denatured alcohol, it sprayed awesome but it needs a bit of retarder because of tip dry if the airbrush sits for a minute. That was the multi surface stuff. So since it worked so well I mixed some up using DecoArt, no go.
My way of mixing craft paints is by viscosity, I go by how a drop of paint placed on the side of my mixing cup returns to the volume of paint in the cup. IE how quick it runs down the side. It should return steady in 1-3 seconds and leave film behind. If it just sits there barely crawling back to the bottom it's too thick. If it runs back like water is one thing but if it runs back like water leaving no film is another, one is a bit too thin, the other, well it's way over thinned. From there it's a spray test. It should be easy spraying, good natured.
-
Mike, My Paasche H will drop the pressure about 1- 1/1/2lb fwiw.. I use an 8 gal portable compressor. The key is whatever the drop is that it holds there, you don't want to see a continual falling off. You don't want a drop from say 21lb to 20 or to19-1/2 that only holds a few seconds and starts dropping more to 14, 12, 10. You gotta be able to maintain flow once the initial drop occurs. That's expected, it's called working pressure vs static pressure. Static pressure is what you set you gauge to before flowing air. Working pressure is what you get with air flowing. You should be able to set the gauge so you compensate for the loss by cracking the pressure up that little bit ( if you need to). If you can't then your compressor is inadequate or you got air leaks someplace.
I typically mix my paints to flow well at around 18-20 psi flowing. Enamel I might bump up a bit more and lacquer a bit lower, sometimes quite a bit lower. I shoot all my acrylics the same, I just thin them to flow where I like it. Thick paint obviously uses typically larger needles and higher pressure, thin paints smaller needles and lower pressures. Nuff said here, over and out.
-
1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:
I resprayed the hood I mentioned earlier and got it to match the rest of the body.
Congrats on that hood Mike !
-
Craft paints make a great base color coat option, I use them a lot. Just need the right thinner/ratio/type etc. Get that right and it sprays about like any other paint in my experience. Lots of colors, mixable, decent paint over primer and cheap. Most top coats go down to it fine. If it needs a little scuffing just use steel wool. Works for me. It's not all I use but since stock more than 100 colors here at the house between my wife with her ceramics and myself it's often a good option without going shopping. The problem right now with the kids out of school in many areas around here the shelves are pretty barren.
Makes a good base for clear candy paints or Tamiya clear colors too.
-
27 minutes ago, CabDriver said:
The problem is Donn is that he's almost TOO good - you could give him Modge Podge to spray and he'd probably get a show winning finish
So him getting a good finish with these doesn't necessarily mean I will too...
My skill level is considerably lower than his, so I'm hoping the good results I just started getting with Testor's enamels (right before they discontinued the clear I like) transfer over fairly painlessly, even without Mr Yost's considerable skill and experience. I'm excited to find out though!
You'll do fine.
-
I have MCW lacquer that sprays pretty nice but I have not shot the enamels yet. Someplace I found a video from Mike at MCW and he stated as people order these and he mixes them, the colors they ordered become part of the supply index going forward. That's probably why Donn in the video above said the 1500 mark would become a distant memory.
-
I haven't shot them yet but I'll link a video to Scale Model Techniques video who has shot them as a test with both MCW thinner and lacquer thinner. Here it is:
-
You need to paint the plastic, especially that it's white plastic. If not then edges and corners will always give up light in a way that renders it looking like plastic, clear coat will just give it shine. So it will be more realistic looking if you paint the white even though it will still be white. Yellow plastic acts the same way. It's the nature of styrene in lighter colors.. Put your parts up to a light and you will see what I mean. It's why nearly my first step in a build is to prime most of the smaller parts trees., immediately they take on more detail and realism. Even some dark styrene parts aren't fully opaque, you can see it first in any flashing that might be there..
If you think about it the very first thing you see in even 1/1 vehicles is paint. If you want to render realism then you need paint.
-
3 minutes ago, raisin27 said:
Applied with a 1/2 wide fine bristle brush. It is self leveling.
Well they came out great !
-
9 hours ago, TransAmMike said:
So based on Trevors post it seems that if all is true (not doubting any of it) Future is clearly (ha, no pun intended...or maybe it is?) not the way to go. There sure are a lot of clears available, its just a matter of what to decide on and using it. I of course and I'm sure a lot of people take and use the recommendations of the Guys' on this forum.
Yet others like it. The way you find out for yourself is by experience. For instance I think by photos at least that Mike raisin27 did a realistic job of it in his two models above. 9/10 of making a product look convincing is gained by really getting to know it's ways, not that it possess some kind of magic on it's own.. I'll say it one more time, lots of test shooting !
I'm not mentioning other products, did that at least twice in your Createx thread already.
Testors color shift paint type
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
At the web site it says if you want to clean the nozzle to use mineral spirits. This would indicate to me there is a chance it might be enamel paint. But you're right, they don't give out the secret of what the stuff actually is.
You might find that clear coating makes the color shift less lively. You may need more acute angle changes when viewing to pick up the shift. Maybe.