Robert Myers

Welcome!! I hope you enjoy the build. We need all the "truckers" we can get!

All I have are the images I got from the Google image search. There is a real one that comes here every few months. I hope to get some pictures of it. If I do, I will post a thread and send anyone pictures.

It might be, but the white (yard sprinkler pipe) is so soft & flexible that you can flatten it with your hands, it just won't retain the shape. The heat is just needed to make the PVC hold the shape as it cools. The side wall thickness is no big deal, it gives a good glue surface for the ends. It is not heavy. I am working on a multi-tank tanker. It is made up of 8 small tanks bundled together. It is a helium tube trailer. Do a google search on helium tube trailer to see one. I am using 1 inch PVC for the tanks. It is a simple design, but should look very nice as a different built model. If any of you experienced builders like it, decide to get one going and get one done before I do (I am slow due to arthritis) please post it!!!!!

I thought I would post this on a new thread. You may find it interesting. On the survey thread we were posting about the lack of eliptical tanks for the back of trucks or for a full length trailer. This was my reply. You could use PVC pipe that is available in most stores that carry lawn sprinler system parts. It makes a great round tank, it is CHEAP and you can either make flat ends or build your own as fancy as you please. Just a note use an epoxy glue on the PVC, don't use model glue, it won't hold and don't use PVC cement, it will eat the plastic so fast the fumes won't have time to get you. OR TRY THIS..... Back in the mid-1980s Steve Port and I sold an eliptical tank. It was long enough for a replacement for the round tank on an AMT trailer or it could be cut down to any lenght for a straight truck chassis. Ours had flat ends (sheet Plastic). It was made from remolded white PVC pipe like you use for plumbing. You can do the same as we did. Go and get a steel pipe that will fit inside the PVC pipe. Take the steel pipe to a metal shop and have them reform it to the eliptical shape you want. Slip the steel pipe inside of the PVC, yes the PVC will bend, and dip it in a barrel of hot oil for about ten minutes. Take it out and let it cool (completely). When you pull out the steel pipe, the PVC will keep the eliptical shape. Prime it with Krylon or your favorite primer make some ends and you have the tank. (if you don't have a barrel of oil, you can use a BIG pan of water boiling on your stove, just increase the dipping time to 15 minutes) We sold hundreds at $9.00 each. I can't remember the issue, but there was an article in a model car magazine featuring our tank on a straight truck. It was in Quaker State Oil livery. The builder did a great job!!!!!!!

You could use PVC pipe that is available in most stores that carry lawn sprinler system parts. It makes a great round tank, it is CHEAP and you can either make flat ends or build your own as fancy as you please. Just a note use an epoxy glue on the PVC, don't use model glue, it won't hold and don't use PVC cement, it will eat the plastic so fast the fumes won't have time to get you. OR TRY THIS..... Back in the mid-1980s Steve Port and I sold an eliptical tank. It was long enough for a replacement for the round tank on an AMT trailer or it could be cut down to any lenght for a straight truck chassis. Ours had flat ends (sheet Plastic). It was made from remolded white PVC pipe like you use for plumbing. You can do the same as we did. Go and get a steel pipe that will fit inside the PVC pipe. Take the steel pipe to a metal shop and have them reform it to the eliptical shape you want. Slip the steel pipe inside of the PVC, yes the PVC will bend, and dip it in a barrel of hot oil for about ten minutes. Take it out and let it cool. When you pull out the steel pipe, the PVC will keep the eliptical shape. Prime it with Krylon or your favorite primer make some ends and you have the tank. (if you don't have a barrel of oil, you can use a BIG pan of water boiling on your stove, just increase the dipping time to 15 minutes) We sold hundreds at $9.00 each. I can't remember the issue, but there was an article in a model car magazine featuring our tank on a straight truck. It was in Quaker State Oil livery. The builder did a great job!!!!!!!

Did you enjoy the model build? If so, I don't care if it is metal, resin or plastic or whatever. Please post!!!!! I have a couple of diecast cars that I intend to modify a bit. Seeing someone else do it and post it is encouraging!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you

Yep, I have two. I got them back in the 1980s when the kits were still cheap and no one wanted them. I built one with a regular engine and kept the turbine out to display by itself. I have considered making a resin copy of it, but my resin skills are not that great. The other one is in the stash, I just look at it and worship it occasionaly.

After you strip it completely try using the white or grey primer as suggested above. ..... I use Krylon for a lot of my car and truck kits, it covers great and if you keep the can warm (in warm tap water, not heated on the stove) it will give an even better finnish. I have not had any of it orange peel on me. I always use primer. Krylon can etch the plastic.

Thanks for posting the survey link. Went there and put in my two cents worth. I do agree that a kit enginered to build a day cab or connect to a number of sleepers would be great! I know the new molding machines can produce kits far nicer than anything we are used too. Maybe they could produce the truck as a day cab, with a removable roof and back wall Their cabs are already multi piece) and sell separate kits of just sleepers with the parts needed to connect them to the cab. I would buy a bunch of each!!!!!! Even a kit of a tank to fit a straight truck with frame extensions or a dump bed kit or an emergency command post kit or just an accurate wrecker bed kit or .... I dream to much.

No pic available, but you may have seen one in your rear view mirror.. My daily driver is a 1992 Chev Caprice, white, police car. Yep, it is big and ugly, but it is just stinking fast (believe me, I know fast...my last car was a 1969 SS396 Chevelle with a built 427 big block)! The cop car still has the high preformance chip, engine parts and the suspension to match. It runs on premium and needs speed rated tires....the only thing it won't pass is a gas station. I started driving back in the muscle car days when big blocks were king...but this fuel injected V8 with a suspension that actually allows it to turn a corner at speed convinced me. I would like my 1982 Vette back, but the old Caprice manages to fly under the speed radar a lot better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Impressive builds!!! They are getting the building juices flowing! I have to admit that I strayed to the dark side in 2007. I didn't build a truck, just cars, military aircraft and tanks. However, getting back active on this forum and seeing all of the great builds I may be turning the corner....a truck kit is coming off of the shelf. I think it will be a parts truck. I have a KW frame with torsion bars and an older COE cab. With a little work.........

Great information!!!! I am printing it and making notes so that my poor old mind won't loose it all. Warren gave me good information with his Pete kits. I was able to order wheels and othere parts to make the specific models and year ranges, with his advise. I did several builds from the mid 1940s to the mid 1950s of a couple different Peterbilt models. That was great. I know those resin cabs are still available, but I haven't dealt with the dealer yet. I don't know how much information he shares or if he is willing to taylor a sale to specific models or options. It must be a lot of work and time consuming to deal with all of the buyers. Robert

I enjoy building heavy trucks, but I know very little about them. I do know a particular model of truck can span several years with very little or no visible changes. Has anyone put together a list of what years and what specific models the AMT, Revell, Ertl and others represent. I believe most of the AMT/Ertl would be 1970 something just from when they were released. Then they try to confuse me even more. I have 7 different unbuilt IH cabover kits. I think some are 4050s and some are 4070s. I can see the differences in thos cabs but, the frames on the ones with the same cab are different length and even those have different suspensions on the same length frame. Is there any hope for us reality challenged?? I have built some of the older Peterbilts from Silverstate Specialties (I miss Him!!!!) and I really like to tell people the years they represent. I feel rather dumb when I have to say I don't know, around 1973 for the Diamond Reo, I think. And ....most important....I have several tractors that were made from the Kenworth mixer kit. Before you shoot me for messing up the kits, I bought them built with no mixers. What years did the Kenworths have the torsion bar suspension and were there many road tractors that used it? I reall like them because they are different. No I don't want to sell them..(I have already turned down rediculous amonts of money for them)...I like them because they are different. They are going to get total rebuilds. One is just a frame, I wonder if peterbuilt used a torsion bar??????? See I don't know much! I just got lucky and bought cases of kits when the trucks were cheap in the early 1980s and everyone was trying to unload them. Now I want to do some quality builds. Please feel free to add any knowledge you have, I am very curious. I am doing the research, but y'all can help a lot!!!!!

Thank you, I will check it out!!!

Nice lines! I would definitely build that one. I hope I don't miss out when you offer them for sale!!!!!!!

I am building a convertible 1970 Challenger. I don't do a lot resin, but this kit doesn't have the top cover or interior pieces to make the car look like a real convertible. Are there any quality covers/pieces available? I have one I could copy, but for the price of a beginers setup to cast resin and the mistakes I would make.....help! Thanks, Robert

I recently tried to register at a very interesting looking scale modeling site and was rejected because I listed my birth year as 1900. It was an obvious lie, but for a reason. Using such a obvious wrong date tipped off the admin. I knew it would. I could have said any more recent year and been accepted, But even in the lie, I felt the need to show some honesty. Please consider this when you give information out to a non-secure site. The information you give is out there for anyone to retrieve, no matter how secure the site claims to be. Unless the site switches to an (https) mode for you to send the information. I am not knocking the site, they have the right to ask. I am just sorry I will have to miss out on being there. If I put out my real birthday and day, month and year of birth along with my name (not to mention my e-mail address) ....I am helping anyone with a little computer savy steal my identity. I know the site I was looking to join is honest, but they lack the software to secure my information in transit. I am not paranoid, I work in law enforcement and see the results of poorly guarded personal information every day. What do you think?