Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

dmthamade

Members
  • Posts

    207
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Full Name
    don hamade

Recent Profile Visitors

2,101 profile views

dmthamade's Achievements

MCM Friend

MCM Friend (4/6)

  1. Pretty much says it all. Lots of people you could point your finger at, but not knowing how it got to that point you're probably going to be wrong with who the culprit is. Probably not one individual but a "committee" decision. I don't even worry how the vehicle got to the end product now. It's what we have to fix, it's what the customer bought so i'll take the work order/keys, and fix the car. Don Don
  2. Have to say, the big Ford/Lincoln/Mercury boats of the era were pretty nice cars. Didn't see a lot of problems with them, just typical stuff. The intakes were a problem, splitting open on the coolant crossover and puking coolant all over. Don
  3. I bought a can of this a while ago. Your description is spot on, sprays like a firehose. I think if you're doing a BIG project the spray rate ...would still be too much. It is flammable, so i often wonder what a spraycan flamethrower would be like.... I've been looking at different spray nozzles to try, (sprayed my shirt trying one of them) because with the lack of Tamiya sprays, i need to find something else. Vallejo has hobby paint sprays, i've tried 3 different colors, stuff works great!! Comparable to Tamiya sprays but limited colors. They come with two nozzles, the low discharge flow gives excellent control, never used the medium discharge nozzle. unfortunately the low discharge nozzle won't fit the clear can. Don
  4. Lots of dislike for the Aztek, always has been. Only complaint i have with mine is no parts, now. Have owned three beginning when they first came out. first two damaged due to mishaps, third still going strong. Have put pretty much all types of model paints through it, with no damage done. I clean the tips the same way, disassemble drop in appropriate thinner/cleaner, shake, rinse, reassemble start spraying. I use two different tips, grey and tan large and fine. Happy with the results. Seem you either love 'em or hate 'em. Don
  5. Like i said, not always necessary. FSM says to pull cover/grille, look around first. When we get a car in we've never done bulbs on, first thing we do is see if there is a workaround. Sometimes there is, sometimes not. Don
  6. Forgot the Vdubs. IIRC the first ones i remember doing were on Tempos and Taurus, mid eighties.... Don
  7. I worry about the stuff i can control. Design/engineering of vehicles, not my job. I'm at the service/repair part of it. What vehicle manufacturers produce is what we fix, same now as when i started, gravytrain or time killer. All part of the job. Don
  8. Meh. Not much shocks me any more concerning car repairs. Re+Re bumpers for headlight bulbs isn't too rare any more, though not always necessary. For the past while, i just shake my head and get to the repairs. End of the day, car needs to be fixed, no matter what. Don
  9. You guys are making me sad. Tamiya spray bombs are not available up here any more, my one and only go to for spray bombs....😢 Don
  10. I see the Ardun parts now. Is the green one behind it yours too? Can see the flathead parts at the front. Did see the Revell Chrome spray at the hobby shop last visit...$36.00 or $38.00 IIRC...put it back...have to think about that buy. Don
  11. Unusual motor!! Looks like a v-12 with an old school 6-71, dual mags. LSR Bonneville car or dragster? Don
  12. It seems to be easy to duplicate aluminum finishes, but chrome...i agree, chrome is chrome, bright mirror-like super shinee chrome. Or nothing. Have seen examples that would be ok, but they don't seem to endure or they are fragile to the point installing the part could be disastrous. Honestly, it's getting to the point i won't do a build with chrome, 50's-60's builds without chrome work done close to perfect just don't look right. Don .
  13. Ok, so back in the day, fords had wiring problems at the brake light switch. Wire would break right at the connector, disabling the interlock system. Like i said before, turn the ignition key to accessory position, this unlocks the shifter and you can shift the car into neutral. This lets you start car or roll it around if it's dead for other reasons. Have to say, most newer cars have interlock systems fairly easily bypassed, usually can be accessed in less than a minute. Knowing how is the issue... Don
×
×
  • Create New...