Bill Anderson

Ok, I put the Ford GT back on the shelf and started the Revell '67 Corvette 427 Roadster. It's a pretty nice kit and "normal" as model car kits go. The color will be metallic red.

Thanks all for the input. Yes, I've done the YouTube videos and gotten some insight. But I confess I'm just not sure I can do it justice. I think not having a one piece body is a big part of my concern, but the instructions (at this point anyway) seem a bit intimidating. Funny, the only other model kit that I've had (since the late '50s) that "scared" me was a large wooden Constitution ship model. As I recall, it frustrated the heck out of me and I scrapped it.

Finally finished the Revell 1965 Ford Shelby 427 cu. in. Cobra today. Ha, I was 80 when I started it and I'm now 81! Here are a handful of pics, and I continue to be amazed at how the high definition camera highlights all my goofs. Honestly, it looks better in person. I made two mistakes with the model - one is obvious and the other only an old time Ford guy would see. The center stripe came out pretty nice on both the body and the hood (done separately), but the hood stripe is a bit out of alignment with the body. The other mistake was that I put the intake manifold on backwards, thus forcing the distributor to be located at the back (rather than front) of the motor. By the time I realized my mistake, the thing was solidly glued in place. I've tuned many a pre '70s Ford, and always appreciated that the distributor was up front and easy to work with (set points, etc).

I've found that Dawn (the blue stuff) dish soap works very well. Hey, if it can take petroleum oil off of birds, it can sure take mold release off of plastic.

Hi, I just completed the Revell Ford 427 Cobra kit (pics are in the works) and it looks like next in line is the Tamiya Ford GT (#346). In reviewing the instructions and parts packages, it is obvious I've never built a car/kit like this before. Since my first car models in the early '60s, they have all been front engine, rear drive, typical American vehicles (thru the '90s or so). So to be really honest, this kit looks pretty difficult and I'm questioning whether I can do it justice. I've seen the "real car" at Planet Ford, and it is one of the most beautiful vehicles I have ever seen. So obviously I wanted the kit, and it looks like it is my next project. Of course my question is, has anyone built this kit, and what was your experience and do you have any advice. Thank you all !!!

I was under the assumption that automotive lacquers would attack plastic. It sounds like this is not a good assumption. Can anyone elaborate on that, or on paints that would possibly attack plastic?

For most of my 70 plus years of model building, I've almost always used Testor's or Model Master's enamel paint. But since my "come back" to building auto models, I've used Tamiya and Testor's lacquer a few times - mainly because they offered the color I was after. While I used some acrylics on model railroad cars and structures, I have not used them on model cars. So my question is, what drives you to use enamel, lacquer, or acrylic paint? For me, its been the choice of color, but I'm sure you all have other reasons. Thank you!

I have not built this kit, but have seen my share of 55-57 Chevys back in the '60s. The black model looks pretty good to me, except for one thing. No one would put a cheap looking scoop like that on their car. Even a box shape would look more suitable. Hey, just my opinion, but what do I know - I've always been 100% Ford!

Wow, and I thought I had a lot of paint!

I have a wood two level shelf unit (48"x6"x 4" deep) that sits on the back edge of my work table. It's worked great for a number of years but gradually became "crowded". The paints are intended to be organized by base color. This has helped quite a bit. That said, I know there must be a few dozen bottles I've never used, and even some that are dried up.

Usually, I'll remove the chrome plating at the attachment point/pin, and the scratch the surface of the painted body where the part is to be attached. Using ACC sparingly, this has worked out well in the past.

Well, I finally got those wheels mounted. I took a small (1/8 x 1/2) strip of book binding tape and wrapped it around each axle. I then tested the fit of each wheel, and then removed them. I put a dab of "all purpose adhesive" inside the wheels axle hole, and remounted the front wheels. I used bottles of paint to square them up, and let set for several hours. Then, I came in and did the same with the rear wheels, and this morning they are all nice and solid in place. Ha, now if only I can get the body on without messing things up.

Have to add..... While I "smashed" the model railcar I screwed up, that was something I can't recall ever doing before. My "logic" at the time was that the messed up shell would be bugging me "forever", and by destroying it I wouldn't have that to worry about any more. Ok, that may not fly today, but at the time it seemed like the thing to do.

Yup, its all plastic. I'll likely end up wrapping a small piece of striping tape around the ends. Of course its "fixable", but it irritates me that a nice kit like this could have such an obvious screw-up. But, it is what it is...

This is the "new one", #07708. The box has a blue racing mode Cobra with orange stripes.

Here is a new one for me..... I've got the wheels/tires assembled and ready to mount on the chassis of the '65 Revell 427 Cobra. Well, the holes in the wheels - which I have NOT altered - are too big for the axles - which I also have not altered. This is supposed to be a quality kit from a quality company so this is really a surprise. I guess I could wrap striping tape around the axles, but was wondering if you all have any other ideas. Thank you!

Glad to hear the positivity about Tamiya kits. Once I finish the 427 Cobra (getting close), my next attempt will be the Tamiya Ford GT. This is my first Tamiya model, although I believe I've worked every other regular brand kit since I was 11 or so (I'm 81).

Sorry to say, but my vote is to trash it. As said, its a common model and your time could be much better spent working on a clean shell. Have to add, I suspect most long time modelers have at least one or two of those screw ups in our past. My most memorable one was a grey Canadian National refrigerator railcar (HO scale). After my multiple weathering attempts went haywire, I put the shell on the floor and stepped on it. That eliminated any future doubts as to what I should do.

To address the original question, I work one vehicle model from start to finish - albeit it takes longer these days than it used to. When I was heavy into HO model railroading, I would often build like rail car kits in an assembly line fashion. This method worked out really well, but I wouldn't attempt it with model cars due to the uniqueness of each.

Well, I have the need to share a story on myself that only a fellow modeler / craftsperson could understand. As mentioned elsewhere, I finally got the racing strips and body shell painted on a Revell 427 Cobra. IMO, the end result was acceptable, and after it set up a couple days I went to paint the underside of the shell. Yes, I could super tape up the model and spray it, but I wanted it to be a dark, non metallic blue. Anyway, I chose to brush it, using Testors #1111 dark blue enamel. Well, I have a couple shelves of model paint, and pulled all the bottles of blue, but non were what I wanted. Now I felt certain I had one, but "if it ain't there, it ain't there". Ok, I could get in the truck and drive the 6 miles to Hobby Lobby, but there was no assurance they had it. So as much as I was itching to finish the underside of the model and move on, I ordered a bottle on Ebay ($8) and waited a week for its arrival. Five days later it arrived, and I went up to start painting. As I sat down in the chair, my eyes caught some bottles of blue paint of on the end of the shelf. They were in plain sight, but I didn't recall going thru them earlier. So I pulled them down, and to my frustration (nice word), I found TWO (2) bottles of the Testor's dark blue - one unopened! While wasting $8 was no fun, the fact that I wasted 5 days that I could have been working on the model hit me harder. Funny thing, that was a week ago, and I still haven't painted the model underside. Ok, hopefully I'm not the Lone Ranger on this one. Does anyone else have a similar story to share?

I've found a modeler's mitre box (Micromart) works quite well for many cuts.

Well, here are a couple pics of the "untouched up" striping results. The paint is Testors Star Spangled Blue and Tamiya Pearl White. Still have details to add, but I'm pretty happy with the results so far.

Sonorandog, most excellent advice!!! I turn 81 next month, and can vouch for the very gradual loss of model building skills - Vision and Steadiness being the main culprits. I've been building models (cars, planes, boats, structures, trains) for over 70 years and it makes me happy that the joy and sense of accomplishment is still strong. But in my experience (4 adult kids, several grandkids), younger generations just are not interested in the hobby, although many do appreciate the results.

Dr. Cobra, Those are two beautiful models! Thank you for sharing.

I should have added in my original post..... I'm currently working on a Ford 427 Cobra, and this Ford GT is next in line. Have to say, the kit components (i.e. many body shell parts, suspension and motor) are different from what I'm used to in the typical Revell/AMT/Monogram American car kits.