Bill Anderson

Well, it ain't show quality but it works for me!

Well, so far so good...... spent significant time sanding the faulty paint, and got it to the point it was primer ready. Did a light coat, and didn't see any obvious imperfections. So that was followed by 3 light coats of a dark red from Tamiya (name/number in not by me now), and this morning I did a light coat of Tamiya Mica Red, and later I'll do a second light coat. Have to say, the result is pretty good - not contest quality but definitely acceptable. Gotta say, some lessons were learned and/or re-emphasized during this whole process. Thanks all!!!

Thank you both for the sensible advice! Like I wrote, this experience was a first for me, and I've been building models since the mid 1950s. I'm not placing blame (that belongs to me), but my nemesis was those two cans of Testors paint. Pretty sad, for I've never had a problem with them before.

Hi, I have Revell '57 Corvette w/427 kit. I finished the chassis, motor, and interior and IMO they came out nicely. So my next step was to paint the body shell. I used a Testor's rattle can and it was faulty, throwing out blobs of paint (subject of an earlier thread). So I cleaned it up (very little paint got on it) and ordered some Tamiya Mica Red. Yesterday I started to spray the shell with the Mica Red and it just wasn't covering. So I thought, what it needs is a primer. Not having any available, I foolishly decided to use some Testor's gold, which I had used successfully months ago on another model. Well, of course the gold covered with a fairly light spray, but when I hung it to dry I noticed the paint was bubbling in places! That is another first for me. Sooo, I scraped, sanded, and used thinner to clean up the shell. Then I ordered a can of Tamiya light grey primer. I "assume" the primer will cover nicely, but will the Mica Red lacquer cover over it? I've considered buying another kit for the body shell, but I'm hoping I can save the one I have. Honestly, I've had more paint problems in the last month than in all the previous decades of model building. Your comments are more than welcome!

OK, both are "TS" (ts87 and ts 39) which means they are lacquer. And nowhere on the cans does it say lacquer - at least not in English.

Got two cans of Tamiya delivered yesterday - Mica Red for the '67 Vette, and Titanium Gold for the "62 Vette. I have a question, and the answer may be staring me in the face. How can I tell if these are enamel or lacquer???

I went to the garage to spray a '67 Corvette, using a new rattle can of Testor's #1152 Metallic Red. I shook the can for some time (producing a solid rattle) , and gave it a test "squirt", and it seemed fine. My first pass was the underside of the hood, and suddenly the can is throwing out blobs of paint. I re-shoke the can and tried again, and the blobs continued to shoot out. I managed to clean the paint off with some thinner, and then threw the can away in disgust. I've been using spray cans (for all kinds of stuff) since the late '50s, and this never happened before. I just ordered a can of similar color from Tamiya, which should be fine.

Thank you! That looks like the best way to go.

That color sure looks right, but I need a "rattle can" and that is what I prefer. So my question remains, what paint would be closest that comes in a spray can?

Hi, I have the kit and will be replicating a '62 Vette from my JC years. It was "gold" in color, similar (same?) as what the Pontiacs had back then. I think that was called Sahara Gold, but that is questionable. Anyway, my question is, what Testors or Tamiya rattle can paint will come closest to the color I am after? Thank you all for your input! Bill Anderson

Ok, I put the Ford GT back on the shelf and started the Revell '67 Corvette 427 Roadster. It's a pretty nice kit and "normal" as model car kits go. The color will be metallic red.

Thanks all for the input. Yes, I've done the YouTube videos and gotten some insight. But I confess I'm just not sure I can do it justice. I think not having a one piece body is a big part of my concern, but the instructions (at this point anyway) seem a bit intimidating. Funny, the only other model kit that I've had (since the late '50s) that "scared" me was a large wooden Constitution ship model. As I recall, it frustrated the heck out of me and I scrapped it.

Finally finished the Revell 1965 Ford Shelby 427 cu. in. Cobra today. Ha, I was 80 when I started it and I'm now 81! Here are a handful of pics, and I continue to be amazed at how the high definition camera highlights all my goofs. Honestly, it looks better in person. I made two mistakes with the model - one is obvious and the other only an old time Ford guy would see. The center stripe came out pretty nice on both the body and the hood (done separately), but the hood stripe is a bit out of alignment with the body. The other mistake was that I put the intake manifold on backwards, thus forcing the distributor to be located at the back (rather than front) of the motor. By the time I realized my mistake, the thing was solidly glued in place. I've tuned many a pre '70s Ford, and always appreciated that the distributor was up front and easy to work with (set points, etc).

I've found that Dawn (the blue stuff) dish soap works very well. Hey, if it can take petroleum oil off of birds, it can sure take mold release off of plastic.

Hi, I just completed the Revell Ford 427 Cobra kit (pics are in the works) and it looks like next in line is the Tamiya Ford GT (#346). In reviewing the instructions and parts packages, it is obvious I've never built a car/kit like this before. Since my first car models in the early '60s, they have all been front engine, rear drive, typical American vehicles (thru the '90s or so). So to be really honest, this kit looks pretty difficult and I'm questioning whether I can do it justice. I've seen the "real car" at Planet Ford, and it is one of the most beautiful vehicles I have ever seen. So obviously I wanted the kit, and it looks like it is my next project. Of course my question is, has anyone built this kit, and what was your experience and do you have any advice. Thank you all !!!

I was under the assumption that automotive lacquers would attack plastic. It sounds like this is not a good assumption. Can anyone elaborate on that, or on paints that would possibly attack plastic?

For most of my 70 plus years of model building, I've almost always used Testor's or Model Master's enamel paint. But since my "come back" to building auto models, I've used Tamiya and Testor's lacquer a few times - mainly because they offered the color I was after. While I used some acrylics on model railroad cars and structures, I have not used them on model cars. So my question is, what drives you to use enamel, lacquer, or acrylic paint? For me, its been the choice of color, but I'm sure you all have other reasons. Thank you!

I have not built this kit, but have seen my share of 55-57 Chevys back in the '60s. The black model looks pretty good to me, except for one thing. No one would put a cheap looking scoop like that on their car. Even a box shape would look more suitable. Hey, just my opinion, but what do I know - I've always been 100% Ford!

Wow, and I thought I had a lot of paint!

I have a wood two level shelf unit (48"x6"x 4" deep) that sits on the back edge of my work table. It's worked great for a number of years but gradually became "crowded". The paints are intended to be organized by base color. This has helped quite a bit. That said, I know there must be a few dozen bottles I've never used, and even some that are dried up.

Usually, I'll remove the chrome plating at the attachment point/pin, and the scratch the surface of the painted body where the part is to be attached. Using ACC sparingly, this has worked out well in the past.

Well, I finally got those wheels mounted. I took a small (1/8 x 1/2) strip of book binding tape and wrapped it around each axle. I then tested the fit of each wheel, and then removed them. I put a dab of "all purpose adhesive" inside the wheels axle hole, and remounted the front wheels. I used bottles of paint to square them up, and let set for several hours. Then, I came in and did the same with the rear wheels, and this morning they are all nice and solid in place. Ha, now if only I can get the body on without messing things up.

Have to add..... While I "smashed" the model railcar I screwed up, that was something I can't recall ever doing before. My "logic" at the time was that the messed up shell would be bugging me "forever", and by destroying it I wouldn't have that to worry about any more. Ok, that may not fly today, but at the time it seemed like the thing to do.

Yup, its all plastic. I'll likely end up wrapping a small piece of striping tape around the ends. Of course its "fixable", but it irritates me that a nice kit like this could have such an obvious screw-up. But, it is what it is...

This is the "new one", #07708. The box has a blue racing mode Cobra with orange stripes.