Bill Anderson

For better or worse, I settled on Tamiya Pearl White for the stripes. The pearl white should pair nicely with the metallic blue (or not).

In 1958 (I was 13-14) we moved to a house from the apartment behind our grocery store. I decided that my collection of Revell USN ships wouldn't make the trip. So I took them to the basement and set them up as target practice for my Daisys. We had a range down there (scary place), and I did archery and BB rifle and Dad would occasionally do some .22 target practice with Chicago phone books as back stops. Anyway, as best I recall, half the shots just went thru the hulls of the ship, but many would hit the base of a superstructure and parts would fly! That was the end of my ship building, and model cars and HO Railroad kits quickly followed.

While I'm not a "bow tie" guy, this thread is absolutely filled with terrific information. Two of my boys have Vettes, and this will help me get the appropriate model for them (I'll build them).

Its ironic, for there is nothing funny about "funny cars". The one's I saw in action were seriously mean machines! I've always thought the "funny" description came from the fact that the entire body was hinged to the chassis and could be easily lifted up for access to the motor, etc.

Ahh, and then we get into paints! It used to be fairly simple, but now there are so many types / brands to choose from. Testor's (for one) sells sets, but you might be better off buying individual bottles / cans of the colors you want to use. And if you can, but good quality brushes, and take care of them and they will last. One word of advice from a guy who has been building models since he was 11 (1955). Model building is a true skill, and it will improve with experience. And consequently, your level of "good enough" will definitely be raised as you go from kit to kit. I do wish you good luck and hope you stick with it. Model building is a wonderful hobby, one that you can continue for years and years (I'm 80). And the really good news is once you get your "tool set" in place, the hobby cost is minimal as compared to so many others. ENJOY!!!!

Can't speak to plane or ship kits, but I do recall a Richard Petty (life long fan) Plymouth (?) kit from years ago. It was just too big for me, and a bit pricey too.

I love it when great minds think alike! Yes, I will do the white first and follow up with the blue. Hopefully Hobby Lobby will have a white that will work - or if not - I'll hit Ebay. Thank you for your guidance!

Hi, I've been active on Ebay since 2000, both as a buyer and seller. I was a huge model train nut and bought hundreds of out of production car and structure kits. I soon realized that whatever I wanted would - sooner or later - be offered for sale. Yes, I waited literally a couple of years for some items, but they eventually showed up. In the last ten years or so I am back in the model car hobby, and found the same thing. - that sooner or later what I wanted would show up. So far I haven't paid more than $50 for a "new old stock" kit, although there were a few I would have liked to have but they were $100 or so. My point is, if it was made, sooner or later it will appear on Ebay.

Thank you for the guidance! I'm never too old to learn something.

Hi, I'm second guessing my plan for striping a 1966 Shelby Cobra. The body has not been painted yet. It will be Testor's Star Spangled Blue, and the two stripes will be a bright white of sorts. My thought is, should I paint the car entirely white and then mask off the stripes and spray the car blue? Or, should I mask the stripe area, spray the car blue, then mask the outline of the stripes and spray/brush the white? And lastly, while I will definitely spray the blue color, would it be best to brush (or spray) the white? Honestly, I find myself procrastination on the painting. I already have the motor and chassis and interior done, but now I find myself just stuck. Yes, I'm likely overthinking this. Anyway, your thoughts on the subject would be appreciated! Thank you!

Hi, I have not tried this but I'm pretty sure it will help, and if nothing else make them look "newer". I would try a dab of the various brands of proto tire "polish" or "dressing" as that should bring a nice sheen to the model tires. It won't hurt to try, and you may be happy with the results.

Wow, I've used Testors for decades and currently have about 20 cans on hand. But I've never had a problem with them and from what you all wrote, I've been pretty lucky. Obviously they screwed up in either the can's integrity and/or the amount of pressure contained. Because this isn't a food or serious safety issue, no one is going to get involved in a "recall". All said, in recent years I have switched to Tamiya paints (which was hard for me to accept) and find them a "better quality". In any case, its pretty sad that Testor's or Rustoleum denies any knowledge of the problem.

I understand the color (I think). But here is a question, after taping, would you brush or spray the stripes?

Beautiful model!!! The proto pics bring me back to that time, when NASCAR was about the race (a single race from start to finish), the cars (you could relate them to what's available at the dealer), the drivers (they were people, that drove to win). For the last 20 years its just evolved into a circus, with confusing race rules, cookie cutter cars, and drivers inclined to please their sponsors and public and observe "woke rules of racing". I'm sure glad I could enjoy it all from the beginning, but haven't watched a race in 15 years or so.

Thank you all! For this model, I will spray the body/hood the color of the stripes, and then tape the stripe area and spray the rest of the body the metallic blue. I did the sequence the opposite on the '49 Ford and it turned out okay, but I think it could have been better.

Hi, Everytime I work on a model I wrestle with the question with many individual parts - do I paint before partial assembly or after? Also, do I paint while on the sprue or after I remove and clean it up? Ha, there is just no single answer for this, as I find each situation presents that question. For motor assembly, I paint the parts and try not to paint where I know glue will hit. Easier said than done of course. For the chassis, I've done it a few ways. Some I've painted by hand (brush) and tried to keep paint from where parts attach. And some I took to the spray room (garage) and sprayed and later scrapped the areas where glue needed to be used. Honestly, I've been satisfied or unhappy with both methods - depending on the outcome. Of course, either way requires touch up afterwards, and I'm thankful I inherited a bunch of expensive small brushes from my Mother in Law.

Hi, I'm obviously late to the party, but thought I'd add as I was up close and personal with a number of carbs back in the late '50s, '60s and '70s. The colors ranged from a burnt white, grey, silver, bronze, burnt iron, and even more. Obviously, to be correct, you need to look up the specific vehicle (or a motor with the carb(s) in question) image and go by that.

Living here just north of Houston, I would guess that 1/3 of the vehicles out here are pick-ups. Have to add, the other thirds are SUVs and then sedans/sports cars. So one would think that there would be a market for late model pick-up kits, perhaps even more than other groupings. But they just ain't out there......

I'm surprised sitting on its side for even that long of time would warp it so much. I know (from experience) heat will do it, but maybe it was like that to begin with (factory goof).

I'm pretty sure we all have a wish list of kits we would like to see produced. When I left model railroading and returned to building car kits, I wanted to replicate my favorite vehicles that I had since my first one in 1961. I did manage to build a '57 Ford ragtop, a '75 Gran Torino, and a fairly close '80 5.0 Mustang (from a '80 kit). But there are a few left on my wish list: - a late model ('15 - '24) Ford F150, preferably a supercab. - a '95-'00 Ford Explorer Sport. - a '63 Ford Falcon - a '70 Ford Torino 4 dr HT - a '10-15 Ford Escape - a '13-'15 Ford Edge - a '90-'92 Ford Ranger supercab The vehicles on my list were fairly common, but obviously not on the kit makers list. I've researched as best I can, but maybe I've overlooked a kit or two that would work. But hey, that's my list, what is yours? ENJOY, Bill Anderson

OKAY, I like that. You also verified that what I thought was the "door handle" is in fact just that!

Yes, there really isn't much to them. Not sure if I'll paint it flat black, or scratch a panel with a pocket or two. Thank you for the response!

I'm building the Revel 1965 427 Cobra, and finished the motor and chassis and now I'm almost done with the interior. Well, it hit me, there are no interior door panels with this kit. Of course I then realized this model is built for racing, and door panels are just extra weight. That said, I want this to be "for the street" and was wondering if other cobra kits do in fact have door interior side panels. Sure would appreciate any info on this! Thank you Bill Anderson

Yes, and thank you! My plan is to "mix to please" - and will experiment with a bit of yellow or maybe a super light brown. I've been building models and scenery and structures (model railroads) since the mid '50s and never cease to be amazed at the varying shades of color. The palette is just endless.

Thank you! I assumed they were a bright white, but the pics I've pulled up could be more silvery. But, white it is (I like that) and that is what I will use. Again, thank you!