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Everything posted by Bill Anderson
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Hi, Well, I have the chassis and interior complete and joined. I have the body complete with scoops and front/rear fascia attached and lights & glass installed - nicely painted in pearl black. My next step is a serious problem however - joining the body with the chassis/interior. I'm not a newbie, and I've played with it, researched YouTube videos (they overlook this step), and I'm getting pretty frustrated. Do you have any advice or guidance? Thank you all! Bill Anderson Spring, Tx
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66-69 Corvair differences
Bill Anderson replied to Oldcarfan27's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Being a car nut young guy in the '60s, I recall when the Corvairs came out and over their short run we (me and my car nut buddies) had really mixed feelings about them. The early ones especially, looked like underpowered boxes - especially the rear end. And they tended to collect black oil stains all over the rear. They appeared to be unstable but we didn't know that for certain. Frankly, we didn't think much of them. However, the Corsa version changed all of that. It was really nice. That change in styling - especially the rear - made (to us guys) a huge difference. -
Yes, I've come to that conclusion........... It's proven that the chassis Can be inserted into a bumpered body, and as you all indicated, painted with the bumper assemblies attached will make for a much nicer end result. I'm thinking I can get the bumpers attached and smoothed out today, and I already have the spoiler piece in place. So it should be ready to paint tomorrow or Monday. Thanks all once again. Kind of funny... I'm an old hat on the Kalmbach model train forum (since 2004) but still a newbie here. Ha, it's given me a charge to be more patient with the train newbies.....
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Hi again, I've come to the point where I'm ditching my quest for the Revell 07708 kit. For me, it just doesn't seem to be worth the wait and I'm not ordering one from overseas. So, my question is....... What is the "best" 427 Cobra kit that has a full windscreen, representative of a "street" Cobra, and made in white plastic? Sorry to be so anal about this........but I guess that trait is pretty common amongst us modelers.
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Well, I'm thinking I agree with the instructions......the radiator is affixed to the body shell first. I'd love to put the bumpers on first and "blend in" , but I'm concerned I'll have a serious hassle getting the body onto the chassis. I nice YouTube video shows one with the bumpers applied to the body first and then painted as a whole. But did the modeler have a problem getting it on the chassis? I know its a different world out there (compared to my car model building of the 60s-70s), but I do miss the WRITTEN step by step instructions. I think they are history, now that most (all???) kits are built elsewhere.
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Hi, I'm at a crucial build point with the subject model and am facing a couple of confusing points. The chassis and interior is complete, and the body is ready for painting (as soon as we dry out a bit here). - My first question is, is the radiator assembly glued to the chassis or the body - obviously before they are mated? - Are the front and rear bumper assemblys attached before or after the mating of the chassis/body? In reviewing some YouTube videos, and the instructions, I'm getting mixed signals. Thanks all for your input!
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What would YOU like to see as a model
Bill Anderson replied to JeroenM3's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Hi, I'm "late to the party" but may I add my wants to the list..... 1962-3 Ford Falcon Futura (I had a red '63 with buckets and factory 4 speed) 2015-22 Ford F150 (other than Raptor or Super Duty)... there are so many of these out there (I had two) and no model kits. -
Instruction sheet BLOOPERS
Bill Anderson replied to Vintage AMT's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
In the last few years I've gotten back to building the cars of my youth (50s-60s). I've found that the instructions no longer have the "step by step" verbiage and the exploded pics can be pretty vague as to what exactly goes where exactly. The kits are from all the major manufacturers (AMT, Revell, Tamiya, etc.), so its not just one company that "could do better" IMO. But then it hit me....all of these kits are made overseas, whereas the kits of my youth were all made in America - which again, IMO, would reflect a language barrier that has to constantly be overcome in preparing instruction sheets. That is certainly understandable, but it sure does give me (and others) a bit more of a challenge. -
Ha, the explanation of the rating system makes sense of things (for me). The one site originally said this new (?) version would hit our shores in July. The other day I noticed that "July" was replaced with a question mark. Well, I've in the middle of a '67 Shelby GT350 build, and have a Dodge Charger and the fancy Ford GT waiting for my attention. So I will work on them first and hold off on the Cobra decision for now. The one with the "metal flake" blue plastic sure looks good, but I'm leaning towards a regular white plastic (at this time). I really appreciate all your help, and the pics of your builds are really inspiring! Thank you!
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Thank you Can-Con! I honestly expected a flood of comments on this thread, given that the Shelby Cobra was so cool - and mean sounding - when they came out. I recall seeing a 289 and a 427 in the showroom window of a dealership on the NW side of Chicago back in the summer of '66 or '67. To the best of my recall, one had a sticker price of $6,600.
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Hi, I've read where Revell's kit 07708 - Ford Shelby 427 Cobra - was due in the US this month. While it currently is available in Europe, there is none readily available here. I have no clue, but suspect there are either some containers en-route or the production is delayed. Does anyone have the scoop on this? Also, is this kit worth waiting for - i.e. is there an existing 427 Cobra kit that is as good or better? Thanks for your time - and help! Mobilman44
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Finished a '57 Ford Ragtop
Bill Anderson replied to Bill Anderson's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks for the kind words! This was my first finished model post and obviously posted in the "wrong" section. Ha, I noticed the lens misalignment after they were glued in. There was no way to redo it w/o damage at that point. ENJOY! -
Hi, Months ago I posted a few threads about getting the kits/parts to replicate the '57 Ford Fairlane 500 (w/TBird 312 cu in motor). I ended up using two AMT/Ertl kits, and scratched the front "V" bumper attachment and the dual tailpipes. My thanks to member "ChrisBCritter" for graciously supplying the tonneau cover which he handmade. Oh, the last pic shows me at the wheel at age 19. It was taken in 1963, in Humboldt Park in Chicago. Hey, thank you all for the inspiration. Bill Anderson Spring, Tx.
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Not often, but yes I have. The most recent was for an auction of the 3 in 1 AMT 1957 Ford kit. Cost me $80 on Ebay and sourced the steel wheels, baby moons, and spotlights for the '57 Ford Fairlane Convertible I'm building using a different kit as the main source. The $80 was a lot to spend just for the parts I needed, but I figure I'll resell it and substitute mag wheels and other parts and should recover som of the cost. Now if only I could get a convertible top or tonneau cover.............
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After some hits and misses, I did manage to put together an acceptable bumper piece that works. I used three sprue pieces, and spent more time than I care to admit getting it to look right. I can't publish a pic as of yet (still working out the bugs on W10 and new PC) but expect to have that resolved in the near future.