Harry Corning

The only one I've needed outside the pre-mixed products is something to represent Dow7 on magnesium. In reality, there are endless variations depending on many factors, but generally, I've found a light single coat (transparent) of real-car self-etching spraybomb green primer (over a grey or fine silver or gold undercoat) to get me close enough.

Here's the first installment of that... http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/nmfcb_1.htm

Wow, and thanks. I had no idea...

Though they've been discontinued by Testors, their "Metalizer" line produced very believable bare metal finishes for aluminum, stainless, magnesium, brass, cast iron, "burnt metal", etc. They were used heavily by aircraft modelers because of their outstanding potential to achieve visual realism when applied correctly, and buffed if required. If you can find any, I suggest stocking up before they're gone the way of the Dodo. Alclad makes "metal" finishes, as do a few others. You can get useful information by searching the internet for people who have used all the materials and show their work for verification. Here's one such link: http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/nmfcb_2.htm

Nobody gets it right on the first try 100% of the time...not even "masters". But a master recognizes when things are going awry and it's time to start over.

A very accurate '70 Chevelle would be nice. All that I've seen have problems with the lines and forms on the sides, though there may be kits I'm unaware of.

Very nice concept work.

I've long wanted to build one of these. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.

Exemplary design and workmanship. Building with sheet brass takes a level of skill few master.

I owned and raced multiple Corvairs. No overheating unless the belt was loose, and occasionally they'd throw belts. Not a great design. Drivers would keep driving, then blame the cars. And yes, they had factory oil coolers inside the fan shroud. Very nice folded-fin Harrison coolers. Every air-cooled VW ever made also had an oil cooler. The Corvair setup was better because it didn't blow hot air from the cooler over one cylinder. Early VWs blew the hot air over cylinder #3, leading to early wear and dropped valves. The VW-specific Bosch distributor compensated somewhat by running slightly retarded ignition timing on #3. Later cars fixed the problem with revised cooling tin. The most common leak locations on Corvairs and VW air-cooled engines were the rubber o-rings on the pushrod tubes. Flywheel seals would get hard and leak, and valve cover gaskets would leak on poorly maintained engines. The little cars are much maligned. Usually hearsay.