JPL-ACE

I suspect the picture is an airbrush painting with a little upgrading for shock value. Blower looks so much more powerful. Note the detail is kind of blurry and the headers are "chrome" and the fire is kind of fake to me. I have that second picture and it is a metal plate. The website that makes it does not offer it for sale now. But they do custom ones and Gabin has the money to order one I am sure. Just a thought. You may be right. But it does look cool.

My 1st real car was a 57 Ford sedan just like the Galpin (but stock) Rebuilt a 312 with 3/4 cam and try-Y headers. Painted orange that looks pretty close to the photos of the Galpin. See the pic from 1968 below. I have a kit ready to build (along with 6 or so other cars I have had). I also have a metal print of the Galpin 3 with blower vice dual carbs from retrovisions.com. I hope Derick can get back to models soon.

Always good to have another kit basher Tom. I very rarely build kits as stock. In fact many are partials and pre-started ones from my brother or cousin. And as mentioned above, plenty of help and advice here. Hope to see your stuff soon.

It was an educational ride Mike. Thanks for the detail. I will check out the finals.

Lookin good Mike. Light at the end of the tunnel. Can I ask why you chose to use a flathead engine on a 1960ish vehicle? The detail makes it work but, why not a Shelby small block, say?

You really go out of the way with attention to detail. Thanks for the How-To. Nice technique to have in the toolbox. I just hack them off with an Xacto. Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut it off with an ax.

The metal bands really make it outstanding. I never used bmf since it did not exist for me in 50s and 60s. I guess I will have to be dragged into the modern age (kicking and screaming). Your a learning experience Mike. Loven it.

Tip for hoses. Get some electronic shrink tubing which is available to about 1/16" and then shrink to 1/2 size with heat (soldering iron, match, etc). Black looks like radiator or heater hose. Also available in many colors. Can get a little creative with a cheap $7 soldering iron heating (shrinking) part of the tubing. Also, to make stainless steel woven hoses for race cars (or show), look at the fine woven necklace thread in Micheal's jewellery makers dept. Just a suggestion. Fine work so far, Mike.

You keep surprising me with your intimate detail. Cool.

Mike, when I want to do wiring and tubing, I look at polystyrene solid and tubing, electrical wire and the insulation, and for really fine stuff (imitating wiring harness) I use transformer wire which can be VERY fine. Thicker copper wire is good for fuel lines is very bendable, and very tiny jewelry store beads make nice couplers. Just a suggestion. Looking good so far.

I just love your detail. Thanks for the fine detail update.

Your detail is just incredible. Keep it coming.

Nice job on the roof. It is really hard to deal with the casting marks. It is really one of the things that shows the dedication to detail for model building, IMHO. Quality work.

Yeah, keep em coming James.I got mine on Auto Art and will keep looking for the presentable ones to post.

This is just my kind of models work. Creative, detailed, artistic, etc. Very nice work and thank you for explaining things as we all can always learn more. I try to put little tricks in my works when I figure out something clever or at least out of the ordinary. Even if my talent is from 50 years ago. Thank you for your work Mike.