JPL-ACE

I suspect the picture is an airbrush painting with a little upgrading for shock value. Blower looks so much more powerful. Note the detail is kind of blurry and the headers are "chrome" and the fire is kind of fake to me. I have that second picture and it is a metal plate. The website that makes it does not offer it for sale now. But they do custom ones and Gabin has the money to order one I am sure. Just a thought. You may be right. But it does look cool.

My 1st real car was a 57 Ford sedan just like the Galpin (but stock) Rebuilt a 312 with 3/4 cam and try-Y headers. Painted orange that looks pretty close to the photos of the Galpin. See the pic from 1968 below. I have a kit ready to build (along with 6 or so other cars I have had). I also have a metal print of the Galpin 3 with blower vice dual carbs from retrovisions.com. I hope Derick can get back to models soon.

Always good to have another kit basher Tom. I very rarely build kits as stock. In fact many are partials and pre-started ones from my brother or cousin. And as mentioned above, plenty of help and advice here. Hope to see your stuff soon.

It was an educational ride Mike. Thanks for the detail. I will check out the finals.

Lookin good Mike. Light at the end of the tunnel. Can I ask why you chose to use a flathead engine on a 1960ish vehicle? The detail makes it work but, why not a Shelby small block, say?

You really go out of the way with attention to detail. Thanks for the How-To. Nice technique to have in the toolbox. I just hack them off with an Xacto. Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut it off with an ax.

The metal bands really make it outstanding. I never used bmf since it did not exist for me in 50s and 60s. I guess I will have to be dragged into the modern age (kicking and screaming). Your a learning experience Mike. Loven it.

Tip for hoses. Get some electronic shrink tubing which is available to about 1/16" and then shrink to 1/2 size with heat (soldering iron, match, etc). Black looks like radiator or heater hose. Also available in many colors. Can get a little creative with a cheap $7 soldering iron heating (shrinking) part of the tubing. Also, to make stainless steel woven hoses for race cars (or show), look at the fine woven necklace thread in Micheal's jewellery makers dept. Just a suggestion. Fine work so far, Mike.

You keep surprising me with your intimate detail. Cool.

Mike, when I want to do wiring and tubing, I look at polystyrene solid and tubing, electrical wire and the insulation, and for really fine stuff (imitating wiring harness) I use transformer wire which can be VERY fine. Thicker copper wire is good for fuel lines is very bendable, and very tiny jewelry store beads make nice couplers. Just a suggestion. Looking good so far.

I just love your detail. Thanks for the fine detail update.

Your detail is just incredible. Keep it coming.

Nice job on the roof. It is really hard to deal with the casting marks. It is really one of the things that shows the dedication to detail for model building, IMHO. Quality work.

Yeah, keep em coming James.I got mine on Auto Art and will keep looking for the presentable ones to post.

This is just my kind of models work. Creative, detailed, artistic, etc. Very nice work and thank you for explaining things as we all can always learn more. I try to put little tricks in my works when I figure out something clever or at least out of the ordinary. Even if my talent is from 50 years ago. Thank you for your work Mike.

Here is another drawing but I dont know when except late 60s or probably early 70s.

Thank you James. A lot in common here. Waiting for your drawings.

Thanks Ken. More to come...

Well, I found some dated material to verify my poor memory for the time period of the drawings. A couple of 12th grade drafting class drawings I did for extra credit. And some large size paper drawings of the same vintage but undated, so a little questionable. Below are 2 of the best sheets. A full 2 part drawing and a partial. The front and side view are trial designs for the Fisher Body contests offered in the day. I even labeled the last drawing that, though it was more of a doodle. The stylish big G is the emblem on the car. Anyway, they are dated 1964, my high school graduation year. I will upload a few more related but undated drawings in a few days. Later I will upload some drawings with related models. Some drawings before the model and some after. Stay tuned... OOPs, sorry about the big blank area, part of the scan.

OK, here are 3 more views of the 60s interior. I am not satisfied with the painting quality up close but it looks pretty good from a distance. The steering wheel will be different than shown in the final assembly. The Dash especially looks good from a distance but up close, in the last picture, it looks like a kids Crayon work. I may try to use tape off (masking) in a future painting to see if I can control the sloppy look. Not sure if I can tape such a complex part but maybe I can reduce the mis-paint to a more tolerable level. I already use pens to pre-do some seams but I need more than a black pen, which gets kind of expensive to cover all the possible colors. May not be worth it for the slight improvement in paint quality. Update: I painted the face of the Tach on the dash and will try to update a picture including the steering wheel and Tach later. Could be a little while as I am also busy scanning and uploading some drawings form my distant past. See them at "VERY OLD ART" in Auto Art forum. From the 60s and 70s but kind of modern if I do say so myself 😉

Thanks Greg, I will have a few more pics in a few days.

Well, after a considerable time, I am back. My next car here is another practice car, a 60 Corvette. My goal is a 58 Vette very much like the one I had in the late 60s early 70s, which I have a Revell kit ready to go. But I will do this 60 kit as practice. I am not satisfied with my build quality yet, as you will see. This 60 is a partial kit already started and many parts lost. What I have is not built parts shown in the (and near) box plus the frame. No parts were painted yet so that is my work you see so far. The frame actually had working spring suspension and steering. I was luckily all the parts were still there in the box. In the Hood pictures, the stock hood is the only one the kit had. I found the open hole hood in my parts box. I also found a 64 Mustang hood with a Ford hood blister and cut it to fit the Vette. I wont use it on this Vette but it is nearly identical to the hood on my 1:1 58 (TBC). The 4th picture below is the seats, Engine Bay and built motor from my stock of motors I built before I started a car for this model club. I tried to draw in some wiring on the Bay which came out pretty good. The engine is very similar to my 1:1 58 with cross ram and home made headers (that dont look much like the on this engine). The last pic is another part from my stock. I had to add a 2 mm tip to the front springs (the white tips). I dug out some wide ovals and mags similar to my old 58 too. More to come and hopefully not as tardy as this entry.

Thanks Chris. Like I said to Ace above, show us your work. How does the 90s relate to the 60s? Lets see the contrast.

Thanks Ace. So show us your drawings, maybe? Not much action on the forum in Drawings recently, it seems. I am going to put some drawings on that correspond to some models I started years ago and put the models on WIP. Actually I am not sure how to do it yet. How do I cross reference them?

Another doodle, my wing rod, for lack of a better name. I liked to mix things up so I put a wing on a modern rid. Not bad for 60/70 era, if I do say so myself.