Leo64

It may have been Competition Resins that had the resin hood scoop, but they are no longer in business. I did find this website that says they have 2 of them available from their inventory: http://www.fasteddiesworldofspeed.com/store/p93/Competition_Resins_Olds_Aero_Hood_Scoop_%23_078.html And Slixx says they have a limited quantity available on their website too: https://ecsvr.com/slx/shopdisplayproducts.asp?page=2 You might find one on like eBay also. Another option if you have a way to 3D print, then these are available on the Cults3D website: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/drag-racing-hood-scoop-pack-8-for-model-kit-custom-diecast-rc https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/hq-scoop-for-model-kit-rc-slot-custom-diecast Steve A.

I sent you a PM about the figure. Steve A.

If you know someone that can print 3D files for you, this is available on the Cults3D website. It says they are 18" wheels, but they could be scaled to 17" pretty easily. https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/18-bullitt-mustang?srsltid=AfmBOorvK20TvswFYRBf57aUEjXrwnWeCyxQ-XSjosw3VAu-4d6CPR5I Plus you could scale a picture down for the Cobra emblem for the center caps. Steve A.

I think I have one of the figures, but the problem is that after several moves I'm not sure where it is at the moment. If someone doesn't have one for you, I can see about 3D printing a figure for you. I did find this one listed as the '89 version of the Batman. It comes in several pieces, so it would need to be assembled. Steve A.

Looks nice. If you add a bat symbol to the front and a wing or 2 in the back it would look like a vintage Batmobile from that era. Steve A.

That might have been Bruce Sadewater that had SMP Decals. I haven't heard about anyone taking over his decal business. Here is a build someone did on here using some of his decals for a 1964 Grand Spaulding Dodge. Steve A.

I just sent you a message to see if I can help you out with this. Steve A.

I also found a few other vintage Aqua Lung decals. Steve A.

Hey Ralph, I don't know if you've had any luck finding the decals you want. I don't have the kit these came in, but I was bored and did some searching and came up with some images to make decals from. Attached is what I found. I wasn't sure exactly all the decals for the surf parts that you want, because I'm not sure of some like the red/blue circle one. Also, since I don't know the size of the original decal sheet, I'm not sure what the sizes of each one should be. Steve A.

I tried doing a Google search of your description, and I did not find any 3D files listed. I'll keep trying to doing some searches, sometimes it's a matter of finding the right description to find something. If you could post a pic of what you are looking for, that would help some too. Steve A.

That turned out really nice, you did a nice job. It looks like a real version. Looks like a typical Tamiya great kit. I bought the non-custom version of that kit when it came out because it was the closest I could get to the Yamaha Vstar 1100 I had at the time I added a Harley front fairing with cut down windshield, leather saddlebags and a Corbin custom seat set. I happened to live in the same town where Corbin's was to be at the factory to see the seat made and custom fitted. Steve A.

Where I live, I bought a 8'x12' shed and have it setup as my hobby room. I have the resin printer setup in it, and when I walk in, I don't smell anything strong from the resin. When I clean the parts with Isopropyl alcohol, there is a smell from that, but I usually have the door open and a fan blowing when I'm in there. If you were to setup the printer in a room in your house, I would recommend having something like an exhaust fan pulling the air out of the room. If it was in like a garage, again I would setup a fan at the least. I have seen some resins that say they are "Low Odor", but I've never tried them, so can't say how strong they may be. If you want to try and minimize the smell, I recommend checking into the water washable resins. That way you are cleaning the parts with soapy water instead of isopropyl alcohol. I have also seen some of the printer manufacturers have a filtering system that you can buy for some of the printers. I've never looked into them, or heard of anyone using them, so can't say how well they work. You can probably find some reviews about them on Youtube though. A lot will depend on how sensitive you, or someone else in the house, is to odors and smells. Plus, I've heard of some being allergic to some of the chemicals in the resins or becoming allergic after a while from it. If you are sensitive to the smells, then there are respirators out there that might help, plus chemical resistant gloves also. I've been using resin printers for around 7 years now and not had any major issues so far. I was also diagnosed last year with something they called restrictive airway disease, probably caused when I got Covid back in 2021, and so far I don't have any problems working with the resin I use. Steve A.

I've never tried printing a body and engine and all the other stuff using a filament printer. I don't think you will get the fine detail you need on the smaller parts like the engine pieces. I prefer using a resin printer, even for like the body because of the fine detail you can get from it. I use the Anycubic ABS Like Resin Pro V2 resin for printing everything, and it sands really good and can be drilled and pinned if needed, and I've not had any issues painting anything as long as it is clean and cured properly. I know they make an ABS filament, but you need a more controlled setup to use it. I've read that it is best to use an enclosed printer to control the temperature and humidity, because it is more difficult to print if it isn't controlled. I also don't know how well it sands and reacts to glues and paints. If you were to use a filament printer to do say the body and interior, from my experience you should probably be able to get somewhere between 6-8 bodies (depending on the size of the body from a roll. For example, if you were printing say a bunch of Mini Coopers you will get more prints than if you were printing a bunch of say 60s Cadillacs. You might be able to print engine parts like the block, heads and maybe the transmission, but stuff like carbs, alternators, water pumps and such I don't think will show the really fine details. I also once tried using a flexible black filament to try printing out some tires, and they did not look good at all and didn't show the tread detail at all. In my opinion, you will prefer the results you can get from a resin printer for model parts and bodies over a filament style printer. Steve A.

Sorry, I don't have any of those in my stash of parts, but I do have a 3D file for some truck tow mirrors that are close to those. Attached is a pic showing the front and back of them. If I can help with them, let me know. Steve A.

If you have access to someone that can print 3D files, you might want to check out the Cults3D website. I don't know about all the specific stuff you have listed, but here is one example of the Artillery wheels: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/16-artillery-on-white-walls and I've seen lots of Ford flathead motors on there. Steve A.