Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

BIGTRUCK

Members
  • Posts

    2,581
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by BIGTRUCK

  1. I spent my share of time waiting in lines to get in model swaps but the Feb 26th show was the longest. It opened at 9:00 I got there at 9:10 and got in at 9:40. Im glad the weather was fine and happy the shows are coming back stronger then the last 2 years.

    20230226_091427.jpg

    20230226_091430.jpg

  2. A glue bomb save of another showrod almost did not happen when the clear coat and paint crazed . I figured all the clean-up work time and started over prime,paint and clear. This time going lighter on the purple shade and adding wider front tires. Other changes to the build were new roof lights,chrome signals , exhaust pipe,new glass front and back ,steering wheel and column , tac, shifter and extinguisher then topped off with a roof whip & flag.

    20230228_201721.jpg

    20230228_201915.jpg

    20230228_201933.jpg

    20230228_201944.jpg

    • Like 3
  3. As smooth as it was going when I shot the last coat of clear the finish started to craze. I really dont understand what happened as all the paint, pearl clearcoat and high gloss clear coat were all Tamiya. So off to remove all paint and start over. While the body was soaking ,I worked on the chassis which was in poor shape do to a glue overdose from the original builder. Only difference in paint this time was I changed the shade of purple to a much lighter one. Now to repaint the interior and get the motor cleaned up and painted. I also upgraded the front tires to a wider tire.

     

     

    20230227_135945.jpg

    20230227_135903.jpg

    20230227_135821.jpg

  4. Well I started a re-do of another needy build from yester-year "The Li'L Van" a Tom Daniels design from Monogram. It was released again in 1996 but this one I believe was mid 70's. It came apart pretty good but needed alot of clean up. Paint and glue were pretty thick. All chrome needed to be removed because of all the glue and repainted or done with Molotow, such as the mags. So far only a few items were from the parts box. Body , chassis and roof are close to being done. Once I get the VW engine cleaned up  and painted , make 1 axle shaft , things should move along nicely.

    20230217_093758.jpg

    20230217_093835.jpg

    20230217_093849.jpg

    20230217_190837.jpg

    20230217_190841.jpg

    20230221_111623.jpg

    20230221_111629.jpg

    20230221_111753.jpg

    20230221_111944.jpg

    20230221_112228.jpg

    • Like 2
  5. This build up of a 51 Chevy with a some what hopped-up 6cyl. dual carbs and dual exhaust with header , worn faded paint and chrome, and blanket on the front seat was more work than if I built it as a gasser or custom.

    The seat cover was made from a tissue coated with a mixture of warm water and Elmers glue sprayed onto the seat, when it dried it hardned and contoured to the seat and painted. All parts were kit parts. Wide whites were painted on. Bare metal foiled and painted Hunter and Light mist green then slight wear was being done as I was building.

    20230216_170143.jpg

    20230216_170151.jpg

    20230216_170227.jpg

    20230216_170252.jpg

    20230216_170349.jpg

    20230216_170409.jpg

    20230216_170418.jpg

    20230213_140343.jpg

    • Like 3
  6. This kit is not a very popular kit, I ve never built one so gave it a try. I gave it a 60ish style interior build with fur and piping. I went with the drop top but it does come with a hard top. Built right from the box except the (2) spots , sidepipes, skirts and mirror. This kit was an early 90's issue.

    20230201_073345.jpg

    20230201_073608.jpg

    20230201_082017.jpg

    20230201_082026.jpg

    20230201_082044.jpg

    20230201_082049.jpg

    • Like 2
  7. Still doing this 66 TBird, but now will be without the roof. Fur the interior floors in pink and pipe trim the seats in pink,  add a chrome Targa bar and a few other goodies such as side pipes spots etc. . 

    20230125_135333.jpg

    20230125_135353.jpg

    20230125_143058.jpg

    20230125_143137.jpg

  8. Ive never built a 66 TBird before for lack of interest but a custom one sounded alot better and this early mock-up with parts box wide whites and front and rear custom treatments along with parts box skirts and custom hood will work out nice. Targa bar open top or complete roof or maybe a half roof I have to see which way this is going to go. 

    20230104_094321.jpg

    20230104_094337.jpg

    20230104_094525.jpg

    20230104_094540.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. I started this in October and it fought a pretty good battle but its nkw done. It started as a 3D printed body only item and after I gathered up interior and chassis items I decided curbside was going to be my route. I tried my hand at resin casting simple items such as the :  tires,wheels,gas cans, tools and tool box, light beacons and winch. Seat is 53 Chevy SD ,chassis is a modified Ford 4x4, boom, bumper,mirrors and cradle are made from evergreen plastic and glass is from clear sheet platic. Paint is Tamiya green and racing white all toned down with dull coat. Decals are Gofer everything else is parts box. Other than alot of sanding and scoring door and hood lines the only issue was when I bought this Jeep is seemed like it was not fully cured so I had to purchase a UV light to complete that.

     

    20230102_085235.jpg

    20230102_203607.jpg

    20230102_203616.jpg

    20230102_203622.jpg

    20230102_203640.jpg

    20230102_203650.jpg

    20230102_203704.jpg

    • Like 3
  10. This build has been a nightmare from day 1 when a crack developed on the back of the cab. I fixed the crack and then noticed a wet spot next to the repair....another crack. After chasing 1 more wet spot and another coat of primer I let it sit for about a week. No more problems so I continued the build. I drilled 2 pin sized holes for levers and the next day wet spots appeared. I contacted the person who did the 3D printing and he said the leak means in areas it has not fully cured. My options are put the body out in the sun so the UV can do its thing to complete the process or hit it with portable UV light. Sun is not really an option where I live maybe until next April, I dont have a portable UV source that would help so Im boxing it up until next spring before trying it again. Besides the leaks getting all over the body and making the primer soft heres what I found out about the problem on a 3D site:

     

    Why Do Resin 3D Prints Leak/Explode/Pop?

    Resin 3D prints can leak or explode due to uncured resin being trapped inside the model. This uncured resin is trapped inside but is still slowly curing and expanding, so it produces extra pressure inside the model until it finally finds a way out. This can either leak, explode, or pop so it can be very dangerous.

     

    So until the next update on a sunny day next year, on to another different build..😁

    20221213_113344.jpg

    20221213_113349.jpg

    20221213_113403.jpg

  11. This is what I came up with up to now. There were small running boards (if I remember right) came in  a 66 AMT Lincoln kit, I made a mold of them , cast a few and they fit perfectly in front and behind the rear tires. Cobbled up a pipe bumper and completed the boom assembly. Now to get that body as smooth as I can and try to get it done this year .

    20221121_165843.jpg

    20221121_165856.jpg

    20221121_165904.jpg

    20221121_165910.jpg

    • Like 2
  12. This is the SMP Imperial box and custom parts, directions and decals. Everything is in  pretty great shape except the decals, they are pretty dried out. Looking for intresting trade. The white parts are also common with other SMP/AMT kits of that era. Only wear is from being 61 years old but no box splits or repairs, just 2 very small cracks in folds of instructions

    20221102_080450.jpg

    20221102_080456.jpg

    20221102_080502.jpg

    20221102_080520.jpg

    20221102_080853.jpg

    20221102_080918.jpg

    20221102_080927.jpg

    20221102_081306.jpg

    20221102_081058.jpg

    20221102_080840.jpg

×
×
  • Create New...