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nitrojunkie

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Posts posted by nitrojunkie

  1. Bill is one of the nicest and coolest modelers i know B) he's very humble about his accomplishments and is always willing to help out when he can. he's passed some very helpful advice to me and is a blast to hang out with too.

    Dave

    I'll second this statement. I got to meet Mr Stillwagon at the CKM show last month. I had questions about his Starliner F/C.Paint to be exact and he told me the tricks he used on it.Very nice man.

  2. Howdy, folks , just wanted to say a big thank you to the wonderful response to all those who took the time to find me and then personally thank me for returning to North Carolina with the Shell Shaped Shell station that remains ( intact for now ) in Winston Salem . It was refreshing to see a very low pressure show where the participants were like those I remember from my years living out west . A couple of I P M S clubs here in Virginia could take lessions from these folks too ! :D Ed Shaver

    Thanks for the kind words Ed.I enjoyed seeing the gas stations and look forward to seeing the one you are working on now sometime in the future.I did not know the Shell station was here in NC let alone so close.I plan to go see it soon since it is only about 1 hr up the road.For those of you that have seen these gas stations you should look at the information in the binders that accompany the models they have some very neat stuff in them about the stations and the construction of the models and real things.Interesting reading.

  3. Well I bought the Pearl Green Murcielago raced the first time Tuesday night in Mooresville and had a blast.I have added bearings and the Kyosho ball diff.I want a 917 next.This is way better but more frustrating for noe than slotcar racing.It has been well over 20 years since I raced any RC cars let alone on a roadcourse.But each heat I got a little better.I am nor ranked 80th in the world it looks like we are a very small group at the moment.I think if Kyosho will market this right it could get huge.Qon how are you doing? Getting enough coffee???? ;)

  4. Yes you can sharpen blades I do it all the time.Get a white Arkansas stone.You can use a sharpie to mark the edges of the blade to see your progress.It will take a few tries before you get the hang of it but it can be done and you should be happy with the end results.You can also try a very fine diamond type hone it will actually work faster.

  5. I'm probably gonna step on toes with this I appologize in advance...There is only 1 airbrush thats an IWATA.I started with a Paasche H,moved to an Aztek then to a Paasche VL set and finally to an IWATA Eclipse HP-CS. If youve seen Mike Lavalle or Ryan "Ryno" Templeton paint chances are this is what they were using.It is very easy on paint being gravity fed and is also a breeze to clean between color changes.I shoot everything through it,Urethane clears,Base coats,Acrylics I have shot some primer through it but very seldom.I use rattlecan primers.

  6. this is a great topic because I have been thinking about jumping up to urethane clear.

    for me I am kind of leaning towards using the hok paint system. meaning their paint with their reducer, the sg100 intercoat

    and the uc35 clear.

    I have a couple questions about the HOK paint.

    1. why is it a bad idea to use cheap thinner instead of the hok reducer ?

    2. would it be compatible to use either duplicolor or plasticote primer with the hok paint ?

    the reason I ask that is to try and keep costs down a little.

    3. and lastly if time is a problem could you paint the car and then go back and clear later ?

    thank you in advance for any help.

    1,Trust me you want to use their reducer. I have used lacquer thinner before and got away with it but I don't recomend it and don't do it anymore.

    2,I use Duplicolor Lacquer Primer filler and their primer sealer both in gray.I also use their white primer all lacquer have had no problems as long as the plastic is properly prepped.

    3,With HOK's BC & FBC metallic bases clear should be applied within12 hrs if not apply SG-100. I have waited 24 hrs on models with no problems,I usually put SG-100 over all base coats let it dry decal if required let dry overnight and clear ASAP next morning.

    Reducers: The HOK reducer is used in all of their products other than their lacquer system.I use RU-311 extensively but depending on your conditions you may need one of the others.

    RU-300 70-80 Degrees F

    RU-310 65-75 Degrees F

    RU-311 75-85 Degrees F

    RU-312 85-95 Degrees F used in warm humid conditions to increase flow time and leveling. Short and sweet stays sticky longer, better be in a clean environment or dustnibs galore.

  7. As Dave stated above the House Of Kolor line is a very well engineered system and is for the most part a totally compatible system.I love the UC -35 Klear and have used it on models before but for me its overkill for my models.However it is probably the best clear available today.My most involved paint job so far was my Honda Civic Hatchback that I did in Oriental blue Kandy over Silver white Marbelizer with the Kandy mixed in SG-100 and cleared with UC-35.Now no doors were opened up or anything other than the hood as supplied in the kit.But I completed this (once the black sealer had cured as specified in the tech book )in about 2 1/2 hrs.A word of caution when using UC-35 you have to spray an adjacent panel of some type to check the condition of the clear in its flashing stage." The paint (clear) should be sticky and not string when touched at the wettest point before the next coat is applied."What this means is you stick your finger or something into clear that was applied at the same time as your car if when you lift it it does not leave spider web looking strings you are ready to apply the next coat you must touch a new spot everytime when monitoring for this stage.Too soon you have a risk of solvent pop.Too late and it will lift or wrinkle, at that point its trashed! Here is a pic of the Civic it has been posted before on this forum.

    th_P1001132.jpg

  8. Ive used Parma's before with mixed results and the microscales micro mask. It is good stuff but takes practice to get it to work exactly like you want it to.It needs a brand new #11 blade to cut it make sure it drys good before trying to cut it .I apply it with a soft brush and in several coats and let it dry over night to be safe.I hopr this helps and good luck.

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