nitrojunkie
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Posts posted by nitrojunkie
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Man thats hot.
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Thank you kind sir.I will do my best.Pics to follow of work so far.Long live the art of straightline racing.One more thing and this is solely my personal opinion if you can't feed it Nitro its a waste of time.But I love all straightline cars just prefer Nitro stuff. Ahhh the smell of nitro in the morning there is nothing like it in the world.
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Shane, there is no way you would ever need to buy a gallon of urethane clear. I buy Omni which is an off brand from PPG it comes in quart cans. The Omni Clear plus a 1/2 pint of reducer/catalyst comes to around $35. The ratio of clear to reducer is 4-1 then I cut it 1-1 with standard hardware store lacquer thinner. I have not had a single problem with clear coating anything since switching over to the Urethane Clear 4 years ago.
In the long run price for price Clear Lacquer to Urethane Clear the urethane is less expensive and a lot more user friendly. Just make sure you TOTALLY clean your air brush after shooting Catalyzed Urethane or you'll get to buy a new air brush.
A-Men Brother!!!!!I havent done it but had a buddy almost kill a full size spray gun for not cleaning properly after clearing .At the time it was'nt funny but looking back now it was hillarious.
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I have to admit I have recently bought a quart of the Duplicolor Paint shop lacquer and so far have had no problems with it but I have only used it on chassis parts and to seal mtealizers.Due to having to mix 1/2 oz of urethane clear at a time.I do agree with the light coat,medium,coat and full wet or flow coat.When I shot my SLR I used Cobra colors products.It turned out ok but took 2 weeks to paint and then I had cure time with the urethane in 24 hrs its cured wetsanded and polished.You will need to work with with any new product and get used to it and above all you have to have a good knowledge of your airbrush and its spray pattern.You need to know that at X distance from surface being painted I have a spray pattern that is X in dia.This is critical when shooting kandies and pearls to eliminate streaking or striping aka "Tiger stripes".
Dave is right the catylist will go bad before the clear and is the most expensive of the 2.I store mine in my model room where it is climate controlled and low humidity as the humidity is what causes the catylist to seed.Micro mart sells a can of nitrogen for dispensing into paint to add a protective barrier this should help I don't use it but when I painted for a living I used a P-Mix system and kept 50 plus gallons in the catylist container at all times and always added a nitrogen blanket after the container had been opened.I have sprayed as much as 20 gallons of urethane paints in an 8 hr shift this was me and one other guy.We shot 2 to 3 colors every night sometimes more.
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Thanks Nitro, I don't expect this to get nasty as I'm asking about switching to urethanes. If folks want to be close minded about it start another thread and stay out of this one
I agree totally glad to see this attitude here.Thankyou so much.Kinda like TV or radio ifin you don't like whats on change the station
.Here is another link to see what all House Of Kolor offers you may find a clear here also.These are great folks to deal with they really know their stuff. http://www.coastairbrush.com/HouseOfKolor.asp -
I have a flat bladed hoby knife that is similar to a chisel but I am going to have to get one of these they look real handy Thanks for sharing.
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Yes there is a clear called Econo body that one of the members in my club has had good results with also.I have edited my earlier post to include some safety info also.Thanks for looking.
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Here is what I use most of the time.Don't buy a gallon of clear you probably will never use it and it will go bad.I can clear a car with a little over 1/8th oz of reduced clear with that said a quart will do in excess of 200 1/25th scale cars.You have to use an airbrush.I have never seen the stuff in the spray can and can't comment about it.The SG-100 is an intercoat clear that you can mix Kandies in for a true kandy finish,it is also what you use to seal the marbelizer if you choose to play with marbelizing like my Honda and Minicooper in my Photobucket stuff.You must use a respirator if you use these clears they are nasty and are are bad for you but in small amounts used with a spray booth vented outside or in a garage or shed with an open window and fan running you should be fine.Ive used this stuff for over 10 years and used to spray it professionally on a daily basis.
Whats in the picture? SG-100 intercoat clear used for,an intermediate clear to be applied over pearl or metallic basecoats so you can tape on it and not leave tape tracks in the base coat.You can also mix it per the instructions and add any of the Kandy Concentrates to it to make Kandies they are between the 2 qt cans.The RU-311 is the reducer it is used in all of the urethane HOK products that need reducing SG-100 mixes 1:1 with RU-311 then add KK's or dry pearls these are in the small jars;yes they are true pearls and will go thru an airbrush. The six taller bottles are 6 of the 12 base colors that are recomended by HOK for use under their Kandies.They offer 12 Base coats and 20 kandies this alone can give you 240 colors and then you can intermix to tint base coats etc.
The clear is a 2 part when used on full size stuff that is in the weather.For our purposes I mix it as specified and reduce an additional 20-25%with an MR reducer usually mid temp.I mix my clear in graduated medicine cups graduated in drams or 1/8th oz.I usually mix 1/2 oz and try to clear 2 to 3 projects at a time as once mixed what you don't spray has to be thrown out. (You Cannot Return It To the Can) It will ruin that container of material.
It is alot to take in you can get the HOK Tech Book here. http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/E...HOK_TechMan.pdf
Hope this answers some questions for those interested.This has been known to be a touchy subject to some people I am simply providing info based on my experiences and discussion with the reps of these products.All paint products are hazardous whether they are urethane,Lacquer or waterbourn they all can and do harm your lungs and a minimum of a respirator should be worn and protective gloves are not a bad idea when mixing clears.
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Those are great thanks for posting.I also looked up TxRat's Pure Hell build it is awesome too alot of super detailing and scratchbuilding.I don't know if I'll go that far yet or not.Might be time to knock the dust off the lathe and mill and get busy for a change.
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Somebody needs to do an old Barndoor since this basic model has been done several times now.I would like to see an early Karman Gia too.I still have every VW I've ever owned. 74,70,77,and 63 all standard.63 is hotrodded.
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I like it. Whats next?
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I totally agree with you there. Almost like they are dipped in syrup............
I don't get that look.I always reduce my clears alot of people don't cause they use 2 part clears.Ive even reduced 2 part clears even though they don't recomend it although that is for 1:1 use not for our small stuff no weather to worry about. But I'll drop it for now.Just a suggestion.
Here are some of my builds if the link works the only things not urethane are the F1 and SLR. http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a319/ernest41/
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bringing this back up from the depths with a new body in tow. I had some serious paint and decal problems with the first body and could not save it. True HoK lacquers are hot and must be applied light and slow. I am heavy handed when it comes to painting sooooo....
Heres round 2. I didnt like the resin Dart bodies available so alot of work goes into a stock body.Hope this one turns out better. we'll see....
I know this is sometimes a touchy subject but here goes.Why don't you try HOK urethanes from coast airbrush and an inexpensive 3 part urethane clear coat. You reduce the paint to your requirements and not what someone else thinks you need and you know what you used.Works good on resin and you can still getaway with using lacquer primers.Another benefit is if you want to do any kandies or two toning you can get SG-100 intercoat clear to mix for adding Kandy concentrates to,or be used as a barrier between colors. Urethanes are faster than lacquers and can be rubbed out in 24hrs.
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HELLO, DRAG FANS...I AM READY TO START A NEW PROJECT SOON
AND DOING SOME RESERCH, I STARTED READING ABOUT
THIS FAMOUS TRACK AND STARTED TO FILLED NOSTALGIC.
FUNNY I WAS WATCHING THE MOVIE CARS FROM PIXAR
WITH MY 2 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER AND STARTED TO WONDER
HOW MUCH WE HAVE LOST TRYING TO GAIN...AND MONDAY
I HEARD ABOUT PONTIAC.
I GUESS I AM A CONSERVATIVE, WELL EVERY HOT RODDER IS.
THANK YOU!!!!
I CAME UP WITH AN IDEA THAT WILL KEEP US REMEMBERING
THE GOOD YEARS....A BUILDOFF REMEMBERING LIONS.
THE TRACK OPENED IN 1955 AND CLOSED IN DECEMBER OF 1972.
LETS RE OPEN THE TRACK IN OUR HEADS.
BUILD A DRAG CAR.
RULES:
1. MUST BE A 1955 TO 1972 MODEL.
2. MUST BE A DRAG CAR.
3. MUST HAVE PHOTO OF THE 1:1 OF THE ERA.
4. ANY SCALE ACEPTED.
5. ENGINES,TIRES,PAINT SCHEME MUST BE OF THE SAME ERA( NO MODERN EQUIPMENT).
6. MUST BE PLASTICK OR RESIN.
7. PROGRESS POST FROM BOX TO FINISH A MUST.
8. STARTS TODAY AND ENDS IN DECEMBER 31 2009.
9. ALL CLASSES WELCOME.
10. WILL POST ALL ENTRES IN THIS FORUM FOR FINAL JUDGING FROM THE MEMBERS.
LET'S DRAG
THE LAST RACE 1972.
I know rule 6 states "must be plastic or resin". I have started a what I feel is a rather unique build of the Pure Hell Bantam roadster,it will have Competition resins body Front wheels and tires and the gas tank. Engine will be sourced from another kit.The chassis is being made from scratch from brass rod.I am referencing the chassis of the Winged express of Wild Willy Borsch.Will you allow it here?I can provide pictures of progress as I have only formed the upper and lower frame rails and the rear roll bar support and roll bar hoop. No big deal if the answer is no. Just asking; thanks.
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I'm doing a full series on resin casting
It starts in the Aug/September issue.
Stay tuned!
All questions answered!
Can't wait I have cast a few things for personal use.I am mostly interested in smaller parts,Hilborn 4 port injector bodies,superchargers,mostly drag car stuff.I have used the stuff from micrmart but dont like it.I'm thinking AlumaLite white.I am looking for something similar to what Competition resins or Jimmy Flintstone uses.I do like micro-marts mold rubber it is real easy to use.
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Lookin good its nice to see a Merc roof cut the right way in scale it is a pita but results in a very clean roof line. Sam B and Dean J would approve.Keep up the good work.
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I'm glad I'm not the only one.I was thinking I was getting Alzheimers....
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If I were buying anything X-Acto I would go to Hobby Lobby with a coupon.Zona Saws look better and in the long run are cheaper.tweezers and other surgical type items find you a good medical supply house in town they should have them all,tweezers,scalpels for BMF work,hemostats,and good sizzers,while your there you might as well pick up a sleeve or two of plastic medicine cups for mixing paint and epoxy in.Harbour freight and Northern tool is another good source for stuff also "miniature drill bits etc and cheap.
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Celebrities as Roll Models
??? Better get out the Benny Hill Discs. -
The custom color is a different line made by valspar and not HOK they won't mix with HOK stuff with good results.I learned the hard way.If you need to reduce further Lacquer thinner would probably work best.I use the actual HOK stuff.I buy it from the local auto body supply house in 4 oz squeeze bottles made for airbrush use.I reduce with RU 311 mostly but I'm in the Charlotte area you may need a faster or slower reducer depending on temp and humidity.I reduce 1 part paint to 2 parts reducer for airbrush use this is the recomended ratio for airbrushing.The tech book says 2:1 that is for a full size spray gun.
Bob; I couldnt agree more with the lacquer thinner for airbrush clean up thats all I use in mine and have never had a problem.I noticed back when I used enamel that thinning with lacquer thinner enhanced the gloss tremendously.
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Have you checked with Slixx to see if they have them?There seems to be a number of 1/16th resin stuff out there it may be worth a shot.
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I need to get in on this one my self.Here is another good link for research. www.wdifl.com a good site lots of pics on the free side and I imagine way way lots of pics in the pay side.Good history on all of dragracing too.
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I'm interested in at least a set.PM me the details.
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Gary man as always good job.Love the paint.
.Here is another link to see what all House Of Kolor offers you may find a clear here also.These are great folks to deal with they really know their stuff. 
??? Better get out the Benny Hill Discs.
Question for you urethane painters
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Hey guys I used to use a small touch up gun like the one shown above.I have since bought an IWATA Eclipse HP-CS airbrush and that is all I use for models unless I'm doing a large scale or need to shoot flake.It will handle pearls good and probably HOK's miniflakes.