nitrojunkie
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Posts posted by nitrojunkie
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The Exacto knife is the safest and usually the most accurate.However if you insist on the saw blades Crazy Modeler offers a set of 3 and the needed mandrel in a photoetched set.Be forwarned they are nice and fast I am sure they will cut hands fingers etc faster than styrene and it will not feel good!!!!Good luck in your endeavor and be careful if you go the saw route.Here is a link to what I have check with Strada Sports http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=170
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You could always move up to a bigger scale like 1/20 or 1/16!
I actually do have a couple of 1/16 FED's in the future.The readers are actually not too bad once I got used to them.The only draw back is now I see stuff I missed on other builds and some stuff looks like ###### to me, that before looked good and actually has placed in contests.Oh well live and learn new glasses are in the near future most likely bifocals not sure yet.The best is yet to come.
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Here is the latest on the Willys.The body is ready for clear I'm going to mix and spray it as soon as I'm off of here.I should finish it up in a day or two.I have included a pic of the materials used for the body paint.Click on pics for better view and thanks for looking.The Kandy was mixed in SG-100 intercoat clear it is not in the picture just the Kandy Intensifier (concentrate).I mix it on the strong side it looked like blood in the airbrush.
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Check out straight line modeler that may have the plumbing references you need for the fuel pumps.It will depend on your induction system as to how you plumb it.
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Flatout I like the Ranchero great color combination I really like the interior clean and simple just like the office should be. I hope to get back on the altered this weekend.I have to machine the flat stock for the front uprights,and since I am going to be soldering with an oxy acetelene rig my soldering fixture will be fabbed from aluminum plate.The altered will take some time but will be pretty neat I think.
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I'm just west of the Mooresville area.Our club meets in Conover, we are the Foothills Plastic Pros.I am the IPMS contact person for our club.
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Are the Hex fittings used on the front end in your product line up?If so what are the part numbers?
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Gee,
And I can look across this room at a gorgeous Dumas 1930 Chris-Craft dual cockpit inboard runabout that has yet to see th water, almost 20 yrs after it was built for me by a customer of my then-hobby shop! My nephew cut scale planking from Honduran Mahogany to replace the cheap Phillipine luan sheeting Dumas packed in the kit, dual water cooled Mabuchi 540's, an electronic speed control.
Hmmmm! Do I hear the park lagoon calling me? Wonder how this thing would be chasing ducks?
Art
Yeah I got the 55 Cobra had it about 12 years still not finished gonna be a pretty boat one day.
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It happens to all of us. I don't think I have anything that I'm Blissfully happy with but I use it as a learning tool and try to do better next time.Just remember nothing is perfect but we will still aim for it.
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Yeah gettin old sux but we have to deal with it Ive been using the readers a little bit today but constantly looking over them or switching to my regular prescriptions.I think my next stop is what Harry suggested wich is also what I referenced in the original post.The one we have in the tool room at work even has a loup we use it to inspect carbide inserts when wear is minimal.I have pretty good lighting but will probably add more thinking about flourescent like I have over the table top mill and lathe out in the garage.I'll probably have to get a magnifying lamp for out there too.Over time needs to start rolling back around like a week ago....
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Well its finally happened.Ive built off and on since age 6 or 7 and never had any problems but I am trying to detail a Big John Mazmanian Willys and the optivisor just is'nt doing the trick any more.I picked up a pair of "Reading Glasses" and they seem to be helping out pretty good but I guess a trip to the eye doctor is in order for a pair of modeling glasses.I came to this realization after it took 2 hrs to attach the injector linkages on a 1/25th Hilborn injector body. I really want to do more in depth builds like this.Are there any other good alternatives?I thought about a flourescent lighted magnifying glass.This will solve the ligthing and magnification.
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I'm hoping for something like this to happen down here at Z-Max preferably sooner than later.Can you say Cackle Fest?
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Here is a pic of my progress so far on the Pure Hell project.It is going slow but I knew it would.I am also working on a Big John Mazmanian gasser for the build also. So I'm bouncing back and forth for a little relief. I hope to get the majority of the P/H uprights cut this week and the diagonal pieces.The soldering iron is not quite hot enough so time to break out the Oxy Acetylene rig for the soldering task. Yeah I have a very small orficed torch tip "made for body work".It is similar to a hobby type torch as far as flame size.Gotta figure out the soldering jig now.Anyway here are the pics of both projects.
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Since you are just starting I suggest where most of us started Tamiya spray cans or Testors spray cans. For detail painting I swear by Tamiya acrylics for ease of cleanup. Good luck with your project.
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I dabble in RC cars and Helicopters a little bit.Now I am no expert tuner by any means but the general rule of thumb is you should always see a trail of smoke when running any nitroengine in an rc vehicle.My question is and not meant to take business from a hobby shop,Why do these people buy these cars and trucks and not learn how to work on them or tune them themselves? They're not that complex and they are very well built and can from my experience take a fairly good beating.Are they scared or do they just have so much money that they just don't care? My R/C stable consists of an HPI RS42 an HPI Savage 25 this actually is my sons and my Thunder Tiger Raptor 30v2 with OS 37 ringed engine.I can't afford a topfuel car so this is how I get my nitro fix!
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The kits I have bought so far have impressed me.Ilike the extras they have added like the line drawings and the stickers along with the miniature box kits.While I don't want to sound cheap I am most impressed with their pricing.I very seldom look at a Revell kit I just can't see the value in their kits.There is alot of stuff coming from Round 2 that I will buy.
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It looks really good.This is a fine example of why molded in color is not always a bad thing.The polishing on this looks as good as paint from the pictures.Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
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Good looking wheels keep us posted if they become available for purchase.A style suggestion or request a modernized Halibrand.
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Hey man been a little while.Iguess Simpsonville.Looks good as usual.Missed Tim's show had to get a Hernia repaired and had alot of stuff to do around the house before being put out of commision.
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Yes MEK is not good; but then again if you get right down to it nothing we use is.Lacquer thinner while a less aggressive solvent still attacks the central nervous system as do most all solvents.The key is ventillation.I also use the Tamiya liquid as well as epoxies.Look at most epoxy labels or resin labels they usually say thin and clean up with acetone thats pretty nasty stuff too but our wifes have at one time or another all used it to strip their fingernails and toenails of polish.Look what it soes to the oil content of your skin.
Ever seen the MSDS on water?If in contact with it long enough it will eat anything or kill anything..Just a little something to ponder.
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As stated above there is no best glue to use.Depending on the application I use the following,Ambroid Proweld,Medium and thin ca,Zip Kicker if needed as a last resort it tends to weaken the joint,Tanax 7,and good old MEK in a touch and flow applicator or an insulin syringe."I inherited them from a death in the family"; yeah thats all I wanted I got funny looks too then I told them what they were going to be used for and the looks got even funnier.At the next family get together I brought a few builds and they all understood.Then I told em to get their kids away from the computers and video games and learn something useful like building something and following instructions.
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KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN MAN!!! CHECK THIS
Yep that clip can bring a tear to the eye.A great movie.
Here is a good nitro read. http://www.wdifl.com/blowerexplosions.html
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TECHNIQUE, SKILL, EXPERIENCE, AND KNOWLEDGE ARE 95% OF ANYTHING YOU'LL TRY TO ACCOMPLISH IN LIFE, INCLUDING PAINTING OR MODEL BUILDING.
TOOL QUALITY AND COST WILL NEVER MAKE UP FOR OR REPLACE THESE FOUR MENTIONED.
Dave I could'nt agree with the above statement more.In my 1:1 work I use an el cheapo HVLP gravity gun with 3 different sizes of needles fluid nozzles and air caps.I get very good results from that gun and use it for everything,primer all the way to clear.I recently bought a Vapor gun from Northern tool to use as a clear coat gun only and it works just as well for $65.00.People ask what kind of money do you have tied up in guns and when their told they usually can't believe what I use.Its all in knowing the spray pattern and as Dave said above solid technique is the foundation everything else will come with time and patience.
LIONS DRAG STRIP "OPEN"
in WIP: Drag Racing Models
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My skills arent that great but thank you anyway.I am trying to improve.Your decals look great. That is the one thing about building that I don't like, applying decals but due to wanting to do alot of drag cars I'll learn to do em better.