tim boyd

Dennis...thanks for posting your detaliled critique. It matches my own thoughts in a number of areas.... I fully agree on the grille shell being too far forward. I remember noticing this on the test shots I built 18 months ago, but it is very obvious on the finished, painted model here. It appears, however, that it may be a super-easy fix. The radiator is what mounts to the frame, and the grille shell then mounts to the radiator. It appears that you could section the radiator by about 1/2 its width and that would move the grille shell rearward by the same amount. If that is indeed the case, this is a two-minute mod that will do much for the appearance. As for the headlamps, I had already used the smallest ones (there are three choices of headlamps in the kit) on my highboy build, so I wanted to try a different size on this build. I ended up using the mid-sized ones. More than the size, the biggest issue is that they are too high for a modern-era interpretation of a 1950's hot rod (they are more technically correct for a true 1950's rod where lighting laws were strictly enforced). This is driven by the shock mounts, which are configured to support the Highboy version, and adapted for the Channeled version as a result. Using the smallest size headlamps will help, as you pointed out, but lowering the position of the lamps is going to involve some work and adaptation. To the best of my knowledge, I believe that parts from this kit and an additional future version from this basic tool, are designed to allow swapping between the kits. If this is true, the '32 shell seen on the pictures that surfaced over the summer of a purported future kit variation, would swap right onto this kit version. As to whether you'd have to tweak the radiator to get the height correct (top of shell to align with top of roadster cowl), I couldn't say. Sectioning the windshield (where the top bar meets the side post) should be a very easy mod. Overall, it's pretty amazing to me that Revell was able to get too such different versions out of one kit - it was a masterful work of art from the kit design and tooling team. However, it appears to me that the kit was designed around the '29A/'32 rails highboy configuration, then adapted for the second channeled version. The result is that the channeled version is a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH fine effort, but would benefit from some minor tweaking. Your list above is a great place to start. Best...TIM

Starting at photo #16 at this link: http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-mo-1/ you'll see the chassis completed, interior completed, steps to final assembly, and a number of views of the completed model. I finished one side of the model with the wheels and trim rings only... ...while the other side includes trim rings and hubcaps, accented with the same flat red used on the finned engine accessories, as suggested by Dennis) earlier in the thread.... A total of 17 fresh images and captions at the link above for your perusal and comments, such as this shot of the completed chassis, which has immense kitbashing potential for Model A and Model T-based hot rod model projects... Thanks for following along....I'll be posting some comparo photos of the Channeled and Highboy versions of the kit, photographed together, later this evening or early tomorrow. Cheers...TIM

Very, very sharp paint work, Gregg! And the car looks good, too! Cheers...>TIM

Bill...great project and progress! TIM

Eric...this came out terrific! Anyone driving a 1/1 version of that in the 1970's would have truly been the king of the street. If anyone remembers the Hank Borger "Boulevard Marauder/Ghost Dancer/Firebox" article series....this one could be poised to give the best of those a real run for 1/25th street supremacy! TIM .

JB - I know that multiple assemblies of the test shots were done, because I did one set myself. At the stage I did mine (1st round test shots), I was working from an exploded parts view. Instruction sheets are often the last thing completed (along with decals, just before the kit starts down the line). Revell would have to address how this error occured. But overall I think the instructions are extremely well done, providing clear and easy to follow assemblies of some of the more complicated parts of the kit based on my prior experience. Just my 2 cents...TIM

Second update photos are now posted at this link. http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-mo-1/ Updates start at photo #8. Here's a look at the finished Hilborn injected version of the Nailhead V8. Several additional views of the engine, also, updates on the interior, and a clear look at the Z'ed Model A frame are part of the updates. Thanks for your continued interest and comments. TIM (Please note I still have some cleanup todo - paint touchups...removing extranious glue strings, etc....TB )

Martin...I do plan to build a future Nailhead V8 using the '29A engine except for the dual quad carbs/intake and exhaust manifolds from the AMT/Ertl '66 Riv kit. I expect that everything will match up fine. I'll post pictures when the time comes. Clearly we have established that the dimensions of the Revell header/exhaust ports do not match the 1/1 scale counterparts, but I just don't see the discrepancy as being one that is obvious in 1/25th scale. I acknowledge that some of you do see the discrepancy. For those that are bothered, I think your idea of sectioning through the middle of the header is the way to go, although due to the geometry you'll then need to slightly shorten the #3 and #4 header tubes as well (UPDATE - I see JC (AFX) also mentioned the need to do this extra step). Personally, I'm way to busy planning future kit bashing projects with this kit to attempt the header conversion, but hopefully someone here will do so. Best Regards...TIM PS - will be posting photos of the completed engine shortly. TB

Chris...you are exactly right on why I tried the fauxtina decals....most everyone who saw them on the decal sheet dismissed them. I wanted to try them (especially since it avoided having to do the paint job over, as explained in one of the photo captions). I think the results are somewhat mixed. They would probably look better over some real 3D rust (like Dr. Cranky does). Using them on this version is 180 degrees opposed to the "shiny" finish of my Highboy version of the kit, which also make for an interesting "comparo" picture later on.... Cheers... TIM

Dennis....the parts fit so well that I decided I could cut them apart and paint the rear wheel wells with the body, and not have to mask off the interior pieces for painting later. Then later I painted the interior pieces the black color at the same time I painted the body the red color. It turned out to be a time saver and I will do it that way with all future builds of this kit. Then everything reassembled as original later on. Thanks for asking....TIM

Dave...I had a real "facepalm" moment myself earlier this afternoon....as at one point I was convinced I had built the Highboy version with the wrong floorboard. But it didn't make sense...because everything was fitting perfectly with that model. You can imagine the sign of relief when I figured out what the real story was. We were probably both trying to figure it out at the same time. Glad to know there was no permanent damage on your end....TIM

I just wanted to clarify for anyone watching the video review above....the channeled version firewall fits fine once you use the #62 floorboard. I just mocked up the entire channeled body/entire/floorboard/firewall fit, and everything works perfectly when you use the Roadster (#62) floorboard. Best Regards...TIM

Dennis....I was leaning that way on the wheels....so your vote may seal the deal! TIM

The first seven pictures of my build of this version are now posted at this link. http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-mo-1/ Here's a look at the injected version of the Nailhead engine.... Also...I am trying out the "fauxtina" decals from the kit, with somewhat mixed results. Check the captions for each photo at the link for much more info....thanks. TIM

Later this evening or tomorrow, I'll be posting in-process photos of my box stock build of the channeled version of Revell's '29A Hot Rod Roadster. But I wanted to post the following info ASAP because I know that some of you are already building your own channeled version of the kit. Please grab a pen.go straight to to page 8 of the instruction sheet, and for step 1 at the top of the page, cross out part #13, and mark in part #62. Long story short, the same floorboard (part #62) is shared across both of the roadster versions. Part #13 has a different tab/slot layout where it fits the side panels, it also has different seat location tabs. It is for a future version of the tool that uses a different body and interior, just like the instrument panel on the same parts tree. I''ll send a note to the Revell team in the morning...but for now you are best served to mark the correction while you are thinking of it. Pictures later! TIM

Regrettably I've had this happen with multiple cans of Testors auto lacquer hobby paints - both the One Coat Metalflakes and the "Custom Lacquer System" Muscle Era duplicates of specific car colors. Yesterday I took one of the cans that had leaked, and sprayed it (I didn't have any extra cans of the color) on a Channeled Revell '29A I'm building. The result was very poor. So if you have any cans that have leaked like this, be sure to do a thorough spray test (wait for the paint to dry) before you spray it on a model car body. I'm a big supporter of Testors, so it is troubling to see this happening with their spray lacquer paints, apparently multiple times with multiple builders. Meanwhile, I have cans of Testors, Pactra, and AMT paints cans from the early 1960's that have never leaked (even in the back of moving vans during multiple cross country trips) that in some cases still spray today like they did when they were new. This is progress? (Don't blame the companies alone, it's the regulatory environment driving changes...) TIM

Michael....I went to the major hobby store chain in metro Detroit yesterday, Nankin Hobby. They have three stores, I went to the one in Farmington Hills hoping they might have the kit. BINGO! They had five there, I bought three (leaving two for others who are looking for the kit). The conversation with the guys behind the counter at checkout suggests that they are already well aware of the early positive feedback on the kit, which of course I added my comments to). I still have two on order from Spotlight Hobbies (expecting to be shipped this Wednesday), and two more from Model Cave in Ypsilanti (where I got my first kit last Thursday). Needless to say, the channeled version is already under constuction. Glad to hear of your impressions of the kit. Cheers...TIM

Thanks for the clarification. Art. TB

Thanks Scott...and to all the rest of you, for your feedback on this review. Needless to say, it's some amount of work, but something I am happy to do to promote a genre of model car building I really like, and an excellent new kit of the same genre/subject. Cheers...TIM

Bob...one of my first kitbashes will be to use the body from the AMT Trophy Series '27T Tub/Touring on the Channeled '29A frame. I'll use the dropped front axle from that AMT '27T kit (which is really sweet, if not overly detailed), and the transverse leaf rear spring/differential/Model A rear crossmember from the Revell Roth Outlaw kit. Since that has an early Banjo rear diff (not a quick change), the engine will be no bigger than a Flathead Ford V8 (maybe the unit from the Chopped '48 Ford convert, which has those awesome Navarro heads and intake manifold). If the rear suspension interferes with the rear seat, I'll can the rear seat and put a tonneau cover over the back passenger compartment. How's that sound for a start? Best regards...TIM

Rob...the air cleaners would stick through the hood as well....and the front corners of the cylinder heads would probably impact the hood sides unless they were made of very thin styrene (or brass sheet). Now if you were to swap the six barrel setup for the dual quads in the AMT/Ertl 1966 Riviera kit, and use the stock exhaust manifolds from that same kit, you might be able to get a nearly full hood/hood sides to work (filing down the corners of those cylinder heads just a touch to boot), but you'd still need to deal with the alternator. Maybe a swap with fan belt in the old AMT '40 Ford Trophy series, which mounts the unit up high (IIRC - did not look this up in the kit box) and out of the way of hood sides? The Revell pickup cab and bed should fit with relatively few changes (primarily, to adjust the pickup bed floor if needed to clear the rear chassis hump/suspension. In any case, good luck with the project, and please share photos when the time comes! TIM

Bob...I'm not sure I understand the question. The mating surface between the fenderwells and the body tucks up under the body when viewed from the side, so you don't see itIt would only be visible when looking at the model from the bottom. In the image below, the mating seam is only seen just ahead of the driver's side rear tire, and for a small section behind the same tire. If that's a concern, the seam could be puttied and sanded pretty easily before you paint it. . But I'm thinking maybe I don't see what you are seeing. Can you explain more? (Sorry for being so clueless!) TIM

Bernard...I've been particularly interested in seeing your reaction, as I view you to be among the most prolific and creative builders of traditional hot rod models in our hobby right now. Without reservation, I share your thoughts and enthusiasm for this new kit. That's a very cool aftermarket list. As for the Deuce grille shell, I like, and regularly use, the setup from Model Car Garage. Comes with a resin shell and photoetched grille. Really nice, and not super expensive. I think that some Nailhead engine accessories may already be under development in the aftermarket. Like you I would love to see a review of the Channeled version. Depending on how quickly I can get my hands on a second kit, ,I may do this, or hopefully some one else on this Forum will beat me to it! Thanks again for the feedback, Bernard. Needless to say, we can't wait to see what you do with the kit....TIM

Martin....I like the Caddy idea...a great swap given the vibe of this kit. Question 1: For standard exhaust manifolds, go with the AMT/Ertl '66 Buick Riviera kit first tooled around 1999,,,either the stock or low rider kits should work. As you can see from the picture below, it's a nearly perfect match in terms of exhaust port spacing (meaning it shares the slight inaccuracy in port spacing documented in the other Forum thread on this kit). Question 2: I didn't try the body on the AMT '29A fenders, but the bodies are virtually identical except for the raised rear wheel wells of the Revell body. That pretty much means that there would be a big gap between the Revell body wheel openings and the AMT fenders. (Revell kit on the left, AMT on the right in the image below) More to the point, it does appear that the new Revell Z'ed chassis will adapt to the AMT fenders with relatively minor mods (thin or remove the Revell frame horns, cut a space in the AMT floorboard under the rumble seat to allow space for the Z'ed portion of the chassis. I don't know how the Revell suspension stance works with the AMT fenders, though. So basically, a rod with the AMT body and AMT fenders, and the entire chassis from the Revell kit, appears to be a fairly easy kitbash. Yes, this one is on my build list, for sure! Norm Veber is working on aftermarket parts for this kit, but he is so busy filling existing orders (and that has to be his priority), that he has not been able to devote as much time to developing parts for this new kit as he had hoped. Patience, patience! Thanks for the feedback...TIM UPDATE - I see Bernard also responded, and his post appeared before mine. Good info in his as well. TB