tim boyd
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Model A coupe reference
tim boyd replied to BrianC's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I just posted pictures of all four of them, from my '15 Cobo Autorama album, at the end of the thread (bottom of page 9) in the link posted by Greg two messages above...TIM -
Hmmm......if/when a production version of this possible kit hits the market, you can be sure that I will both review it and do an on-line "QuickBuild" of the kit. BTW, did anyone see the feature article in the new Rodder;s Digest on four different '30 A Chopped Five Window Highboy Coupes? Terrific cars, everyone of them. Here they are....as exhibited at the 2015 Cobo Autorama.... Of course, my most favorite is the Midnight Blue Solid painted / blown Y-Block powered one pictured above (a new build that debuted at '15 Cobo Autorama), but I'd be mighty proud to drive any of these four in 1.1 scale, and/or to have 1/25th scale replicas in my display case. So needless to say, I hope this rumored kit eventually becomes reality, and much sooner than later to boot. Cheers...TIM
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Jeff....that 'Revell '58 Chev 348 is mega-nice. Superb detail, and lotsa plated parts that are perfect for a Hot Rod engine. Matter of fact, there's some pictures of this engine, built up and modestly detailed, in my article in the current issue of the other model car magazine. The Olds engine is also a great choice for a Hydro/V-Drive boat. I'd love to see pictures when you are done with that one. TIM
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Virgil....looks very, very sharp. Great job on the weathering and patina, of course! The instructions state to use floorboard #13 for the channeled version, but the correct assembly sequence is to use floorboard #62, the same one used for the Highboy version. The #13 part is used in a future version of the kit tool, with a different body and interior panels that align with the slots on that floorboard. There are no fit issues when using floorboard #62. Revell agrees and will make a correction on the instruction sheet of future releases. . There are chrome exhaust tips that are entirely hollow, cast on the ends of one of the chrome trees. They are really easy to overlook (I had to go trash can diving to retrieve my first set), but they are there. Looking forward to seeing where you go with your next builds of the kit. Cheers...TIM
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Gene...yes there is....at this link http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105160-revell-29a-hot-rod-roadster-quickbuild-update-4-final-photos-of-completed-kit-and-my-final-thoughts/ on the MCM Forum, and at this location in my Fotki album http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyd-on-line-mo/tim-boyd-on-line-ho-6/ Best regards...TIM
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One more piece of advice for anyone building the Model A chassis. The two holes in the bottom of the number 62 floorboard that fit the tranny crossmember pins need to be fully drilled through the floorboard. Do this and your body will sit parallel with the bottom of the frame rails. Don't do it, and your body will sit too high at the cowl. Takes about one minute to do,but makes a big difference in the finished appearance. TB
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Here are some additional comparo photos in the "under glass" section, showing the completed Revell '29A Highboy compared to three previous Boyd '29A Highboy on '32 Rails models: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105498-comparo-built-revell-29a-highboy-roadster-vs-three-previously-completed-model-a-highboy-kitbashes/ And here are some comparo photos of the Revell '29A Channeled Roadster comared to three other Channeled Ford Roadster models I've built previously: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/105497-comparo-built-revell-29-a-channeled-roadster-3-other-channeled-ford-roadsters/ Best Regards...TIM
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How's the Revell '29A Highboy compare to previous '29A on '32 Rails models from the Boyd model car archive? This was my first '29A Highboy on '32 Rails, built around 1974. It was inspired by an article on model Highboys by Pat Ganahl in Street Rodder, and by Bill Burnham's yellow 326 Pontiac Highboy as pictured in a Street Rod Pictorial mag c. 1974.. Note the differences in stance, open vs. closed engine compartment, headers vs. concealed exhaust, wheels, etc. The second Highboy was built about one year later, in 1975, and updated around 1978 with Kelsays replacing the original '40 Ford Deluxe wheels/caps. It runs a Flathead Ford based on the AMT '49 Merc engine, with heads and intake from the AMT '50 Ford Convert kit. The last highboy was built around 1999 or so, and it was based on the Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland resin offering of a '29A on '32 Rails. The engine is a 428 Cobra Jet FE Ford. This was uber-current of the build style at the time when it was built. How things change.. . There are a number photos of each of these three builds at the link...start with image #189 and go onto the next page thru to image #208. Here's the link: http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyds-124th--12/boyd-street-rods-ra/boydstreetrodsratro/page8.html Thanks for looking....TIM
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16 photos at the link compare the new Revell '29A Channeled Roadster to three other Channeled Ford Roadsters. Very interesting to compare body/chassis stance, interiors, engines, build styles, etc. between these models. Here's one photo each of the comparos album at the link... The other channeled '29A Roadster was built about five years ago, also with a Nailhead V8 (mostly the AMT Trophy Series Double Kit '32 Ford "Custom" engine, with stamped steel valve covers from the Revell Tony Nancy Double Dragster kit), and reflects a more traditional "channeled" appearance/stance. ...., while the '27T Channeled Turtledeck was built ten years ago, with a Y-Block Ford for power....those are Revell c.1963 Parts Packs Tall/n/Taller Blackwalls, with Chrome Reverse Wheels from the Revell Beatnik Bandit... ...while the '32 Channeled Roadster was built in 1975 and updated twice, most recently about four years ago. For more pictures of each, start with photo #172 at link here: http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyds-124th--12/boyd-street-rods-ra/boydstreetrodsratro/page9.html Needless to say, one difference between these three models and the newly assembled Revell kit - the latter took about 1/10th the amount of time to complete as any of the others shown here! Thanks for looking...TIM
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JB...AHHH!!!! That's the story - yours is the aluminum smaller Buick V8!. I built one of those myself (from the JoHan kit) many years ago, but it wasn't detailed out like yours. Way cool! Fully agree with you on those spark plug covers - they were on the Nailhead in the AMT Trophy Series Double Kit '32 Ford "Custom"/'40 Willys, and after about two reissues (late 1960's) the tooling for the '32 Ford Custom disappeared, never to return, except for the Tudor body which as released once in the AMT Street Rod Series in 1975 with the Vicky/Phaeton innards. Those spark plug covers would be a terrific aftermarket addition (Norm, are you watching this thread by chance???) With a bit of perspective, now that my box stock builds are done, Bill has hit on what is probably the most significant part of this new kit - its potential for use in literally thousands of kitbashing projects. To add to Bill's info, the Revell '29A frame is slightly longer that stock (probably to accomodate the Nailhead as well as another engine that will surface later in the life of this tool), so it is just a tad too long to fit the AMT '29A Roadster fenders. Shortening the chassis slightly, and removing (or thinning) the frame horns, plus creating space for the kicked rear of the frame by removing the AMT Floorboard beneath the trunk/rumble seat, and it should fit right under the AMT fenders. I haven't been able to confirm that the stock chassis/suspension stance will work exactly, but it not exact, it won't be too far off. Because the '29A frame is longer than stock, it aligns PERFECTLY with the Monogram 124th scale Model A fenders. Again, haven't been able to confirm the suspension/stance but shouldn't be far off. And this info (Bill's and the above) just begins to scratch the surface of what is possible using this kit as the basis. TIM
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Horse....yep I agree. I have a '29 Lowboy Channeled Roadster I built a few years ago....and that's exactly what I did. Let's see if I can find a picture of it......welll....looks like this is the best I have right now Maybe I can try to photograph this next to the new Revell Channeled Roadster for a little comparo....but trust me, this one sits WAY lower.....Cheers...TB
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JB....that's a really interesting Nailhead alright! My first channeled roadster was this '32, which was inspired by a photo of a channeled '32 in one of the Street Rod Pictorial Annuals of the early 1970's (1974 I believe). It's not an exact duplicate, but close. I built it around 1975 or so. This picture is the third time I've rebuilt it....as of about five years ago. More photos of this, and the second version (rebuilt around 1980) are at this link: http://public.fotki.com/funman1712/tim-boyds-124th--12/boyd-street-rods-ra/boydstreetrodsratro/page7.html Funny enough, I was also in the center of the California street rod scene in the early 1980's. I lived in Foster City (10 miles south of SFO), was good buddies with Roy Brizio, Bill Burnham, and Dave Hill, and was doing some full size street rod work for Street Rodder as well as my model column (that oft-seen action shot of the Prufer CopShop '34 was taken by Street Rodder Editor Geoff Carter from the back seat of my Mustang convertible one Saturday afternoon....) I visited Boyd in his shop when it was in his 2-stall wide, 3 car deep garage behind his house in Stanton. Steve Coonan took me around one evening to see his street rod buddies, including that oft-seen-in-years-since Offy powered, Red '29 Roadster Pickup Highboy. This wasn't really the underground scene you are referring to, but for a boy from Michigan, all those guys were great and I look back on that period with great fondness.....TIM
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JB - the highboy in finished form is higher than the Channeled version, albeit not by very much. Compare the top of the rear deck in the side view posted above and you can clearly see that the aqua car is taller in terms of height. Now if you are talking about ground clearance (distance from the ground to the bottom of the frame rails, then I do agree with you - again, the side view comparison makes that point very clear. (Maybe each of us interpret the word "sit" differently - no worries either way). PS - I'd love to see your builtup Nailheads display! **********************. All - Regarding the channeled version, if you go back and look at many 1950's/early 1960's channeled hot rods, the overall stance in many cases was not too different from this model. On the other hand, if your frame of reference is recently (e.g. last ten years) built Channeled Hot Rods and Rat Rods, and you want to mirror that look with your model, you're going to have redo the frame with a Z'ed effect added at the front, and an increase the vertical distance of the Ze'd frame at the back, as some of you have noted above. Cheers...TIM
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Scott....a primer gray or possibly a light blue/gray (like the color of the Channeled version on the box art) might work better with the "fauxtina" decals. In my case, I used them as a way to save a paint job that did not go down as planned due to a leaky paint can that I should have discarded rather than try to use. I also wanted to achieve the biggest visual contrast vs. the Highboy model, which as you know was very :"shiny". That is, I wanted to show just how greatly differentiated a model you could build from two of the same kits. At the very least, I think this Channeled version build may suggest to people the possibility that the fauxtina decals might be worth exploring. Whereas, nearly everyone had serious doubts that they could be used at all, based at just looking at them on the decal sheet. That exploration process is part of what a "quickbuild" like this hopes to achieve. Would I do it again this way? Probably not, and I think that the majority of honest/candid feedback here reflects similar views to that conclusion. But at least now I (and indeed, most everyone reading this thread), knows. Appreciate the question and the feedback. Cheers....TIm
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Mike...following up on your idea, I pieced this together this morning. Only a slight modification to the bottom of the Highboy version inner fender wells (to create clearance for the Model A frame at the back, which is slightly wider than the narrowed '32 frame) is required to make your suggestion of a Highboy version using the '29A Z'ed chassis a go! Best Regards...TIM
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Posted 3 minutes ago (edited) ยท Report post Wanted to post some comparo photos of the two completed builds...and thought this thread might be the appropriate place. So here goes: A ground-level profile shot: And finally, an overhead birdseye front 3/4 view As many people have complained over the last few years about Revell making people buy two different kits of the same topic (e.g. the '72 Olds kits, and the '62 Corvette kits) to get the complete range of building alternatives; Revell deserves huge chops in my mind this time, for packaging all the parts to create two such highly differentiated builds within the same box. These are far more complete and better executed than any of the AMT Trophy Series 3 in 1 kits that so many of us view as a gold standard for this type of kit configuration. Yet one more sign that we are truly in the "Third Golden Age" of the Model Car Hobby right now! Best Regards....TIM
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Mike....I think a highboy using the Model A frame is indeed a possibility. Maybe you could use the Highboy interior and the Z'ed Model A Frame to get the Highboy/A frame configuration. (Hmmm....maybe I should give that a try?) These are the middle of the three headlamp sizes. I used the smallest ones on the Highboy build. Best, TIM
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Bernard...just like Dennis' critique above, I think we can learn a great deal from your observations. I won't repeat my observations/suggestions relative to the grille shell position and headlamps that I''ve just posted in response to Dennis' observations, but they apply equally well here. I too am interested in exploring the AMT '29A shell which for me would make the most sense for the highboy version (where the original factory rear wheel well position would look best). But as one of you voiced earlier, I am really reluctant to give up the much better accuracy of the Revell body in the cowl area (the more accurate treatment of the separation between the side panels and the top cowl/gas tank cover here, as well as the correct body stamping below the windshield frame). What I would ideally like would be the AMT body, with the Revell front cowl/side area and rear wheel well area, and the Revell rear inner fender (with its more accurate side stamping) adapted to fit the AMT fender openings. As to whether this could be accomplished without huge amounts of work, I do not know. Bernard, as I've mentioned before, I highly value your perspective because of how many "reet on" 1/25th scale hot rod builds you've posted before. And personally, I can't wait to see your interpretation(s) of this new Revell kit. Best...TIM