
Joe Lange
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Everything posted by Joe Lange
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Thanks Bruce, It's a 1/32 scale Airfix kit. They pop up once in a while on Ebay. I bought this one from an old hobby store in Florida when I lived down there.
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Thanks Ray. Seems I'm getting better results with my indoor photos than my outdoor ones.
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This is one of my better Rust-oleum paint jobs from years ago. For some reason, I have always had better luck with Rust-oleum reds, browns, and greens. It's 'box stock' except I used brass wire in the convertible tops where they attach to the body. The hood was painted with Rust-oleum 'Chrome' silver spray paint. Lots of thin coats. Hope you like the pics.
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The Curtiss Aerocar is a 1/43 resin kit I purchased from a British model car magazine back in the '90s called Model Auto Review, (M.A.R.). I stopped subscribing to them when they went 'fully on-line' about 2013. I don't know if they even sell anything anymore. The kit was extremely crude. Not a smooth surface anywhere and quite a bit of warpage. Oh yea,...included in the box was a full-page photocopy, (internet), of the history of the Curtiss Aerocar Company but........NO Instructions! The Packard is a 'Super 8 convertible' from Solido diecast that I disassembled, stripped the paint from, and cut out the trunk lid. Added the 'post' in the trunk section and painted both pieces Dupli-Color 'Pewter Metallic'. Hope you enjoy the photos!
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After fooling around with my 'background scenery' and lighting I thought I'd put this Frankenstein in the 'Under Glass' section. The drivetrain is a 1955 Chrysler 300C. Paint is Dupli-Color 'Medium Green Pearl Metallic' with clear topcoat. Interior is Dupli-Color 'Medium Beige' vinyl & fabric spray. And lots of bits and pieces from the spare parts box and Ebay! More pics in the WIP section. Hope you like it!
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I have a real problem with these 'Hi-Tech', "PRIMER & PAINT in ONE!" paints. To me, it's a modern term for;.... Yea, I'm lazy! I definitely would not spray a 'paint & primer' paint over a piece you have just primed already. That being said, I see Rust-oleum has 2 Spa Blue gloss sprays. One is their '2x' paint & primer, the other is their 'Painter's Touch', which has no mention of primer in the paint. I would feel safer with the 2nd and use a thin coat of light gray rust-oleum primer, with lots of cure time, for both. I would test it under the hood, oops...sorry, bonnet first.
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Hey David, congratulations on opening a huge can of worms! But, one of the great things about this forum is learning from others mistakes and achievements. I might be a little late to this discussion but, Ace-Garageguy, ctruss53, and Bobthehobbyguy are spot-on. I was never a great painter, (always spray can), and had pretty good luck with Rustoleum spray, however like so many other 'older' products, it's not the same anymore. My Monogram '45 MG TC, and Lindberg '29 Mercedes Benz SSK that I have posted here were done years ago with Rustoleum spray and polished out with toothpaste. (Of course, I waited about a month for the paint to dry!) This was their BASIC spray enamel and primer. None of the 'specialized' sprays now. (All BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH as far as I'm concerned.) Today, I stick to Tamyia or Dupli-Color. And use their primer with their paint! Have you looked at Tamyia TS-10 French Blue or TS-23 Light Blue? That's my 2 cents worth.........Good luck! Please post your WIP pics!
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Thank you for the info, Alex! Temptation just might get the best of me. Just what I need,.....another 'odd' project!
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Thank you guys, for all the good words!
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Great project Ken! Turning out very nicely.
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YIKES Alex! You've got your work cut out for you! (Of course, it shouldn't be called 'work'). I know I'm going to sorry for asking this, but is that a Kaiser-Frazer custom wagon toward the bottom of your list? WHERE did you get that?
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Yes, about 3.5 to 4.0mm's on the bottoms of each side of the roof side panels and then the top of the windshield, (very carefully).
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OK, finally done. Please excuse the dust in several places. As soon as I brush it off it appears somewhere else! Kind of an odd length. Too long for a 'standard' 1/24-1/25 scale display case, and it looks a bit small in a 1/18 case. Hope you enjoy the pics!
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I guess somebody has to be from New Jersey
Joe Lange replied to ToyTund2009's topic in Welcome! Introduce Yourself
Welcome Dave, to the forum and back to model building. There are a lot of great folks with plenty of good ideas and tips on building. WARNING! Once you get on the site you find it very difficult to get off! LOTS of great stuff! -
Finished painting the body, hood, and roof. Forgot to do a 'final fit' check on the interior/body, so.....here goes! Hooray!!!! No issues!
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Actually Emre, there will no reason to modify the hood. One of the reasons I choose the '55 Chrysler 300 drivetrain and engine was because of the really cool, (and different), low profile air cleaner arrangement. I was still a bit worried about clearance, but I reworked the motor mounts and there is just enough hood clearance to keep it 'stock' and still enough clearance between the oil pan and the 'pavement' to be a practical street car. You will see in new photos that the hood has quite a curve on it. Thank you, guys, for all the comments!
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Builders Slump
Joe Lange replied to Rich Chernosky's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
OK Rich, here goes my 'cure'. (didn't someone once say, "One man's cure is another man's poison"?) Up until my retirement I never had enough bench time to have a slump. Now, I limit myself to a couple of hours in the evening after dinner when my wife is off doing her internet business in her own corner of the house. I have found that no matter how involved / in-depth a particular model may get, sometimes you just have to step back from it for a while. My solution is to find another kit, and start to work on it. I know you stated that a lot of your "stash has been started and is in various stages of completion". THIS is where self-discipline comes in! Grab one and close the closet door and don't look back until one or the other is done! I've found having two going in different stages gives me a chance to forget about the other for a while. It really works well if the 2 cars are from different decades. It also works well if I am waiting on a freshly painted body to dry. (That for me is easily a few days). And then, like Bill E. said,....sometimes there are days when you just don't feel like building models. Have a beer and watch a movie. (Something with lots of cars in it.) -
After just getting an email from Ted's Modeling Marketplace I thought a little 'Thank You' was in order. Now that we are all so spoiled with internet 'Instant Gratification', and some are painfully finding out that it's not all that's it's cracked up to be, I just wanted to give a BIG 'Thank you' to some folks who really do give good service and respond to emails. Ted's Modeling Marketplace Texas 3D Customs Fireball Modelworks Morgan Automotive Detail Keith Marks Decals Speedway Decals Jimmy Flintstone Studios These are only a few but, they are still there and giving good service when a lot of good folks are going out of business. THANK YOU GUYS!
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The '55. The one on the left.
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Thanks to all for the complements!
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The best I can remember, there was quite a bit of test fitting first. The body parts were the toughest part. I used a dark red Rustoleum spray paint, and let it cure for about 2 weeks before handling. Polished everything out with toothpaste and s-l-o-w-l-y assembled the body parts with 2-part clear epoxy allowing lots of time between steps.
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Hey Emre, the main reason I used the Moebius Chrysler was because of the engine. However, there are lot of very nicely detailed parts. You will have to shorten the frame, (check the WIP pics). First build the suspension on the stock frame, add the wheels and tires and you will be able to take your measurements and shorten the frame. Line up the rear wheels FIRST with the rear wheel wells. You'll have to open up the front fenders for wheel wells.
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Station wagons! Did you say "STATION WAGONS"! 1965 Chrysler Turbine Wagon 1967 Corvair Sport Wagon 1966 Mustang Sport Wagon