Pg265

Good evening, The straps are shaped on the tanks, equipped with fixing plates, primed and painted. Same thing for fresh air ducts painted gray. The aluminum will be sprayed over the masked part. Painting session for small elements. The air ducts are painted and installed on the car. The rear view mirrors are just waiting for… their mirror. We are not immune to a clear coat attack... Well, well, of course, I took in the face the thing I was not immune to!… I was not happy with the top of a shock. I redid it using a 1/10th shaped aluminum strip, all that remains is to paint. I didn't really know what to do while waiting for the varnish to dry... I decided to make a small bungee cord and a container to collect the overflow of coolant. More soon. Pascal

Good evening, Back on the Chris Amon car I started to work on the gearbox: ...but was not very satisfied. So, I tried to add some more details: J'ai aussi bien travaillé sur le reste des éléments du train arrière et des photos ne devraient pas trop tarder... Plumbing time for the front bulkhead: A bit of work on the rear: Prep and primer of the exhausts: First try of the white color: ZP "pure white". And weld lines: Plumbing of the dashboard started: Black painted caps, then mask and paint process including Klir for the finish coat and oil . Seam is intentionally left in order to depict (or try to...) the plastic bottle. Lockheed bottles installed: Light wash on the metal tanks: ...And finally a small test fit: ZP White is now applied on the exhaust parts: Few details added on the dashboard: Nuts, bolts, wiring... Still working on the battery... waiting for cables: New machined knob, polished and installed on 0.8 SS rod. The beautiful genuine grid is just detailed with machined bolts and lightly weathered. Cockpit is now almost done. I also decided to scratch build the fuel tap which appears on some of my pics, but not on others... Tube installed on the expansion tank: Test fitting of FWD parts: Still adding tubes and cables on the engine...: Do and undo... I was not so happy with the fuel lines: redone: The wire mesh that protects the velocity stacks against ingestion of foreign objects (FOD) is shaped using the included tool. The mesh is a bit too "flashy" for me. I put the grid under the flame to give it a more suitable color. The shaping is thereby slightly more facilitated. A small test seems to validate this solution. As mentioned above, the heat shield is made, its implementation validated. it only remains some paint and weathering: Exhaust assembled: And exhaust clamps installed: More soon. Pascal

Good evening, Thank you very much for all your kind comments! I’m glad you enjoyed the WIP and like the result. That really was a pleasure to build this one. I looove the car, Dan Gurney is one of my all time favorite pilot and an awesome guy, the kit is a marvel… What else?! Thanks once again. Pascal

Thank you Pierre. Yes, the V12 was used till 1969 on the 312F1, then the 312B appeared with the flat 12 in 1970. More soon, as I have to modify the original thread in order to have the pictures visible…? Pascal

Cool! Great job!! The engine is… big and beautiful! Pascal

Hi, Thank you very much for your nice comments! @Pete J.: well… once you know how to do!…? For me, one of the main feature of the Eagle are its stunning chrome exhaust tubes. There are so visible and offer a great contrast with the blue. So, as I wanted to depict as well as possible the real thing, I thought it wouldn’t be stupid to use the same material: Steel. I study few good pictures of the real car and just try to replicate the heat stains using a mini torch on my steel tubes. I first made a first try on one to see how the color changed around the red hot area, then try to be as close as possible of the real thing. That’s all! Just steel tube, a mini torch and great pics! ? Nothing more, nothing difficult! Pascal

Hi, The 312F1 '67 comes back. Well, not much time to work on models, but I try to continue! I set about installing mirrors on the body ... not so easy! I noted the dimensions depending pictures of the car and decorating instructions for positioning. Drilled two holes to be able to insert copper wire in each mirror, and drilled the upper body including one hole slightly larger on the front for adjustment. I let a bit length for inserting two bolts on the inside face of the bodywork part. Few things were done on the engine and you can see the comparison with his little brother from 1969... Wheels painted gold: Onc again 67 & 69: Time to test the "Surface Primer" from GRAVITY COLORS. the good point is that it works upon resin, metal and plastic. First of all some parts need to be prepared or finished before painting process. ... And holes need to be done once again! But it seems I like rivets :roll: 1st, drilling the PE: In position: holes drilled in the resin tub : another test fitting next to the 1969 little sister. Mirrors details: Time to play with the gun Mr Sparmax Flat Pattern & the Primer from GRAVITY COLORS Pics with and without the camera flash: Surprising 1st almost transparent coat, then miracle and a real pleasure to work with! The nose Still little work to do on the nose Top results: Slight problem on the nose and upper body part due to Staedtler permanent ink marker: still visible after primer... Wet sanding and putty Mori Mori Next step of the painting process. A light color coat is done over the grey primer. That will be the Giallo Modena for a great and bright Rosso Corsa! Sanding and primer... ... Yellow: Rosso: prepared and primed: ZP Black Here are the "wrongdoers"... :twisted: GRAVITY paints are AWESOME!! Easy to work with, extremly thin coats can already give a beautiful result and a strong deep satin finish. They also dry very quickly: perfect!! Next step is the finnish coat that will be given by the Clear. So let's go for the Gravity Colors clear coat test! New gloves, stirrer and cup for the mix. 3 components: clear, activator and thinner with a 3:1:1 mix ratio. I always let the mix at rest for about 5 to 10 minutes in order to let allow to the chemical mix to degas. You can add more thinner if necessary. Then, one mist coat and, 5 to 10 mn later, a wet coat (or more): that's all! Parts drying in the "magic box": To sum up: Great and pleasant product. The gloss is... SHINNING!! Deep gloss even if thin. Only 6ml of clear 2ml of activator and 2 of additive thinner were used... Alclad gold on the center of the wheels. The ones shown before were the 1968 312 F1 :oops: The tub is drilled and equiped with 0.5 stainless steel rivets. Then the tub parts are assembled (welded) with low temp solder (70°C). Same thing for the front tub part with Calibre 35 0.7resin rivets this time. The frontwhite metal bulkhead and his PE part are drilled, but I didn't used the PE part... I just used it as a template for, I think, a more realistic result. Once again, Calbre 35 0.7 resin rivets were used. The steering column is cut and the external part of the steering rack is replaced by stainless steel 1.2mm syringe needle cut at the right size. 0.7 resin rivets once again. Pedals won't be visible at the end... Front face of the dashboard installed in the tub: Aft: Close up: Gauges are covered with a "glass" made of Rodhoid cut with a Waldron Punch & Die but it's not really visible on the pics :? ... Cavallino ! Radiator is ... empty! I've tried to make it a bit more realistic or, if not, just more pleasant for me :mrgreen: Brass 0.8 and Alu scotch "aircraft" type: Nice and still bright... Fwd and aft mesh: Primer GC: Dampers are great: made of machined aluminium. Just a detail added from F1 Specialties. I wonder if I haven't already seen the same detail added somewhere... Not perfect, but not bad Black ...is black: Almost invisible once the engine is assembled to the body, but I couldn't resist :twisted: Teflon mask and Orange FRAM from Gravity Colors. Oil filter done ? Well, here's one which is all disheveled, long hair and loose: We'll have to take care of him ... I did not like the original links more than that. I decided to make new ones: A nice hair cut and new links installed: The "jars" are polished and fitted to the roll bar . I took the opportunity to install RB Motion Banjo fittigs: It remains to connect all this little world ... New paint for the wheels: the Gold done before didn't please me... So Primer, Alclad Black, then Alclad Gold tomorrow: Wheels are drilled for the Valve stems from Rob. Schock absorbers are also primed with Gravity. Wheels in Alclad Pale Gold - Dampers in Red (GC) and Black (ZP). Small placards on the red part: Knobs not painted but treated with Master Blackening agent. Wheels assembled and equipped with RBMotion Valve Stems: Brakes! In order to properly clean, coloring and "scratch" the disks (White Metal), I quickly crafted small plates of turned aluminum. They will allow me to hold them on a small tool holder to be fixed in the drill chuck. Turned parts: Disk on the tooll: Done but still dirty: The rear discs are detailed with beautiful PE parts, but lack detail for my taste. 0.4 holes drilled in the part: Allen head from Rob (RBMotion): Brakes are also... Calipers ? Drilled and equipped with copper pipes and brake bleeders from Rob once again The front discs on their hubs: Rear ones with a first light "wash": I hope you like it... Pascal ?

Hi, Let me introduce the Ferrari 1/20 312F1 1967 from Model Factory Hiro, finished few years ago. This is one of the greatest kits I've worked on and one of my favorite Formula 1 car. Here are few pics: First, test fit. No glue on the parts... nice fit ? 14 first engine parts: few parts of the gearbox: some of the cockpit parts: assembly of oil tank by welding: preparing front cooler for welding: Small progress on engine, some of the parts glued together... Few holes and...few rivets: Resin rivets: Backside view : Hopping you'll like it... Thanks for reading. Pascal

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Hi Chris, Another big piece! Once again you’ve done a great job with the beautiful and complex engine/gearbox sub assy! The cockpit is really nice too with a great seat. Can’t wait to see more! Pascal

Good evening, The Ferrari Tipo 500 is just a marvel, my Roooaaaring Red Bullet! I thought it would not be silly to take advantage of the momentum to launch a new project / challenge ... In the mood for Rosso Corsa, I decided to reopen the box containing an assembly started a long time ago and finished at 95% (there were only all the rivets / Dzus, the decals and some small details ..), the result did not satisfy me. So I decided to deconstruct as much as possible and ... to rebuild to finish the model. Please find below some pictures of the whole recovery. Big job in modifying the resin parts of the bodywork Before passing the internal layer of Grayish Blue FS 35237 from GS (Navy when you hold us ...) without excessive masking: Resumption of the seat on which I pass a layer of beige which will serve as a sanding guide and background for the steering wheel: The exhaust is also modified with the addition of some welds in metal and Tamiya epoxy putty (sorry for the image ... blurred!) The whole is masked to pass a veil of diluted Gunze tire Black. This keeps the heated metal appearance at the outlet of the cylinders. The part before the 2 in 1 is buffered with liquid rubber to simulate the burnt paint which is crumbling, the whole is then passed to oils and pastels. All of the front and rear axles are dismantled, rebuilt, modified and reinstalled. The clamps of the leaf springs are redone in strips of lead sheet of 1 mm: it is thinner, it facilitates the assembly and ... I like it more than before! The rear axle wired, the tanks connected before a new pass of "traces of lives" https://i.servimg.com/u/f12/12/38/43/52/90411910.jpg[/img We don't really see the pretty castellated nuts anymore ... And finally the final assembly with the installation of all the screws, the windshield, the mirrors, the installation of the decals ... The wheels are only provisionally installed so that I can more easily prepare its storage / transport box. I will definitely do more pictures later. Voilà. Pascal

Good evening, Well, the buckles, the straps, the exhaust ... In short, what remained to be done is done! The numbers and letters of the registration have been cut individually for a better rendering without any apparent carrier film. Basically, the Belle de Molsheim is finished. Maybe I'll spray a little dark smoky in some places ... and take more photos tomorrow. img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f12/12/38/43/52/007a4c10.jpg[/img] A cozy nest was built for the Bugatti waiting with her sisters to travel for the next exhibition with friends. I hope you enjoyed this build. It was just a wonderful kit to assemble. I may build the other one I have in yellow and surely make the 1/12 in Blue too. Pascal

Good evening, Thank you very much Mates. The last pics of the wonderful Eagle Weslake. Pascal

Good morning, I wasn’t happy with the steering wheel. So I inserted a 0.3 steel wire into a groove: It suits me better. Same with the tank straps. Their rigidity did not facilitate shaping on the tanks or the final assembly. I remade them in 1/10 aero Alu foil. A copper rod is glued and then coated with photo sensitive resin. The “Superpotente” coil will be invisible or almost invisible. I decided not to go into too much detail. The small lateral tank (brake fluid…) is also installed. Pascal

Bonjour, Thank you very much for your kind comments Mates. A bit of cleaning in the working area... Front end progress with radiator mounts and air scoops. Rear completed with anti roll bar and exhausts. It begins to take shape. I finished the rear brakes this evening. Everything is modified and scratched to match my doc. The cockpit is finished and the upper part of the hull will be glued. I also added the welds at the junction of the exhaust pipes and the 3 in 1. Then we have to deal with the front ... Last details added ... I can call this one done today. Sorry for the poor quality pictures... Pascal

Hi, Stunning! Great builds, great choice! I love the wheels. Pascal

Hi, Great job! I love that ace car and the kit looks awesome, Pascal

Good evening, The exhausts are painted, assembled and mounted on the chassis/motor on each bench. I started to apply some pastels. The steering wheel is assembled, varnished and decorated. The nose support is installed after receiving its Grayish Blue layer. Same for the lower tubes of the chassis. The front anti-roll bar is done and installed too. Although they are not very visible afterwards, the new supports of the model are decorated. The two White Metal parts are those provided in the kit. The turned supports are drilled and tapped to be attached to their locations. Pascal

Good evening, Thanks Chris! Here is the progress of the day: I prepared, assembled and added a small weld on the exhausts. Then a primer layer And a quick coat of matte black before pastels and oils. Same for the steering wheel: A light and very light first layer of acrylic. Quickly followed by a second of a slightly darker mixture of 3 shades. And the beginning of work with oils. More soon with the exhausts, steering wheel, chassis and tanks… Pascal

Good morning, Well, let me introduce the superb AAR Eagle Weslake! It changes from red, but orange and green were not that far away .. the red (s) either either! The kit is not more complicated than that, but the installation of the rivets promises to be... sporty and time-consuming. I started by cleaning the parts of the bathtub / chassis, the interior of which is almost invisible once the tub is in place. Only a small part on each side is polished. The assembly is, as often, carried out by welding. The main parts of the V12 are also assembled And we start to put a little color The body parts are prepared, adjusted and the locations of the threaded fasteners for solid fastening. And then, we had to get there, the hull is pierced (0.35) in anticipation of riveting ... Resin rivets with semi-round head of 0.5 for a tail of 0.3. There are many!! Riveting is ... DONE !! I decided to use rivets of different sizes for different reasons. For the lateral parts, rivets of 0.5 for the most part, of 0.4 for the outline of the hatches and of 0.8 in aluminum for closing them. for the upper part of the hull, 0.4 convex / flat head. These are used for: - appearance / aesthetics, a kind of scale effect as with painting, - ease of applying decals. FYI, there are 1620 ... rivets. The body parts have been primed and, for some, painted or partially painted The engine has progressed well I took the opportunity to work a little on the exhausts and their pronounced traces of heating. Temporary assembly. The gearbox is fitted with pretty accessories which I decided to modify: The filter holder, one of the fuel pumps and its filter. The oil filter covers are redone in aluminum, as is the crankcase of the fuel pump motor. Machined aluminum and brass hardware is added to provide a little detail to these subsets. As with the exhaust manifolds, the filters are chemically burnished, then polished and slightly "worn". Here is the set with the gearbox, painted with a mixture of Gun Metal and semi Gloss Black, 53 and 85 Humbrol. Make way for the dashboard. It is primed and painted in my beloved Humbrol 85, a little more diluted than usual and applied in thin coats a little more diffuse to make it slightly less satin. The counters have their strapping polished. The decals installed will be covered with "glass" cut to the punch for more realism. Small machined switches from Top Studio and a few instructions complete the package. The steering wheel is prepared in the same way as the dashboard. The original mold is removed and the Allen hardware and its washers installed instead. A passage of oil allows to shade the colors. Finally, the tank connection pipe is polished and painted with Candy Electric Blue ZP. Still progressing. The steering rack will be installed later .. just like the radiator. It is modified, as well as the pipes connecting to it, in order to weld the fluid inlets / outlets on the body of the radiator. I brought a little detail with the lateral perforated reinforcements and the manufacturer's plate. The interior is quickly fitted with a lead wire to simulate the cooling circuit behind the grid and fill the void. The wheel disc is primed and painted, then finalized, a machined valve installed. Everything is assembled to the machined rim. Masking of the bodywork parts before the passage of the sublime blue whose glitter base is extremely fine. The parts exposed and presented in a white assembly The hubs are detailed, primed and painted he original discs are decked out with important grooves that I don't like ... at all! As for my other models on which I reproduce the scratches of the discs, I made a tool allowing me to maintain them. The shoulders must be thin, both in diameter and in thickness, in order to be able to machine most of the disc. The small "jaws" on the second image are those used on a 312F1 for example. They then went on the lathe to give them a better appearance. Installed on a wheel for control: could be worse. The body of the rear shock absorbers is hidden and then painted. The springs receive a layer of gloss black. The radiator is painted and the tin solders reproduced according to the images I have. The dashboard is finished, wired and the windows installed on the meters. I did not really manage to take a photo that shows it correctly ... Sorry. Last masking step before varnish A shot of white Disassembly of the parts and installation on their support for the varnish step and presentation in the box so as not to be bothered during this step. Gravity (EU) sprayed, fresh (Flat Pattern 0.3 Meng) It dries quietly It's dry!! I couldn’t really resist a little "Test Fit" For fun: I made a small sheet of carbon this morning to dress small aluminum plates. They help me to present the pieces for photos, supports for models ... And, in the afternoon, I decided to make one to present the Eagle with the extra decals and old dry transfers. It's funny, it relaxes and above all I like it! I may shoot a layer of clear coat on it tomorrow to standardize everything and protect transfers, more fragile than decals ... Quite a few tests for the parts to be assembled on the bodywork elements today. The inside of the nose is painted mat black and the decals installed. The reinforcement plates of the anchorages of the tie rods are painted in Polished Alu Metal Cote with a paintbrush and slightly polished. The tank caps are modified and fitted with machined banjo connectors. It remains to tweak them a little with oils. Finally, as mentioned yesterday, I varnished the small presentation plate. It will be used to brighten up the table during exhibitions! It remains to polish the edge of the 2024 Alu plate. Connecting session. The gear box is now installed on the engine. Done for rear with engine/oil filters, fuel connections, underside tubing from engine to radiator... Next step will be the front radiator hoses and ducts installation and the rear drive train. Well, of course, I lost a part ... Not that small and yet nowhere to be found after a good part of the evening and the morning... The part, the lower left anchor of the rear axle push bar (or tie rod ...), has been redone. I quickly turned a piece of 2x2.25, glued to a plastic card base. A 0.8 stainless steel tenon and a resin bolt to finish and install. Quite a few mods and parts for the upper arms to do what I wanted, but it's done. Sorry for the quality of the photos, but the episode "Carpet Monster" (and I don't even have a carpet!) Made me a little ... irritated. I hope it will fit anyway. Pipes, ducts and radiator connected and installed. Lower suspension arms and steering rack in place. More soon. Pascal

Hi, Stunning build! Bravo! Pascal

Hi, Awesome race car, awesome kit and a really great build! Pascal

Hi, Great start on this beastly beauty! Pascal

Hi, Great start! Pascal

Hi? Thank you very much Codi! I really appreciate! I have other of my builds available on the forum. I had forgotten to post a picture of the chassis of the car equipped with its body for test fit. I also prepared, welded, shaped and primed the tubular reinforcement that supports the nose and runs on each side of the lower part of the frame. There’s still the gray to shoot on the parts. The side tank straps are pretty stiff! They are heated with a mini torch, then put in shape on the tank and using cylinders of different diameters. The half wheel rims are also primed in anticipation of woody hues. Pascal