tractoraholic

Thanks, yea the resin was getting frustrating but I persevered. So far it seems good, I let the primer dry for a few days and wet sanded the cab tonight and had no issues with the primer pulling away so I think I got it. I'm probably going to color coat the cab this week, as it's going to be a enamel paint, so it can sit for a few months to dry while I continue this build.

I really like your colors, they look real sharp. The General you built with those colors looked real sharp.

Thank you for your comment. You can buy the White Road Commander from ST Supply out of Canada, he has a couple in stock. I also have one of those in my stash, it's a nice kit also.

Got a coat of primer on the cab. I bought these 1/24 scale air valves and I think I'm going to give it a go with doing all the airlines from the compressor to the air dryer, supply/ reserve tanks,and to the brake cans. It will be my first time doing that to one of my builds. I also have this radiator mesh from CTM, and I am going to use it on the front of this radiator as there is no detail.

Looking Good!

I finally got a coat of primer on the interior of the cab. The only issue I can think of was I used Palmolive dish soap instead of dawn, it was what the wife had. I went out and bought Dawn and rewashed everything, shot some primer though the airbrush and no issues. 1st coat.

A quick mock-up, I shortened the chassis to make a 196" wheel base, I know Schneider used shorter wheelbases than that as they wanted the gap between cab and trailer narrow for fuel economy reasons with their set back front axle 9670 tractors. On mine the step to get into the cab is between front axle and fuel tank vs in front of steer axle like the set back axle model. I made sure there was clearance for that step and I also wanted to leave room between fuel tank and rear quarter fender for a step to get up on the catwalk to hook up the gladhands. So I think the little longer wheel base will work out well.

Small update, Murphy's Law. So in the beginning of my thread, I talked about cleaning the resin and following the kit directions, cleaning with warm soapy water, toothbrush and I followed up with Ajax surb with a toothbrush. Thursday night I went to shoot a primer coat on the cab, Duplicolor Gray Primer. Shot a light mist coat inside the interior and it immediately fish eyed in a couple spots. Now it was a mist coat, so a little lacquer thinner on a brush removed the primer. So I opted for what I know works, took a risk and put the cab in bleach white overnight, found out it does not harm kit form resin, cleaned it up good, scrubbed it with dawn and warm water and let it dry. Went to shoot primer again and it's fisheyeing in the same spots, so the mold release is being real stubborn. Any advice from you guys that use resin, I was thinking denatured alcohol or 90 percent rubbing alcohol, I want to stay away from purple power on resin, don't ask me how I know lol, what do you guys use for stubborn mold release spots?

It is, I have other resin kits from different manufacturers, but I have to say Kit Form is probably the best resin kit I've delt with for trucks along with Auslowe. Not thick, better than a plastic cab, very clean and crisp lines, nice crisp interior detail, such as door panels, sleeper walls, head liner, and little to no flashing to clean up. The downside is under the sleeper bed is all solid resin except where the dog house is molded out and is heavy. Wondering if a plastic chassis will stand the test of time.

Just a update, Don't seem to many modelers delt with KFS resin, I ended up just doing what the instructions said, washing parts in warm soapy water and scrubbing with a tooth brush. Let it dry overnight and shot it with some duplicolor primer and had no issues.

Thanks Guys, This is the route I'm going to go.

That's going to be a nice build, I like those Fords. The trailer is a nice kit, I have built one and it went together easy.

That looks like a cool build, I'll be watching

Started on the truck today, spent some time scrubbing the resin parts with dish soap, warm water, and a toothbrush. Usually I soak resin parts in bleach white overnight, but I opted to follow the directions for cleaning that are in the instructions, as I don't see to many of these 9760 kits out there so I didn't want to take a chance with damaging the kit, although I doubt Westley's would of harmed it I also started on the chassis by sanding off some of the frame detail, (power steering reservoir and filter bracket) as the springs are moved back to accommodate a cabover. Also sanded off the moulded fuel filter on the engine and I will make my own from round stock. I plan on doing a semi detailed engine such as adding fuel lines, oil returns, and turbo oil supply line.

Good Morning All, Question for those that have built or used Kit Form Services Resin Kits. I am currently starting to build one and I usually clean all my resin kits by soaking them in Wesleys bleach white overnight followed by washing them in dawn dish soap. The kit instructions say to just wash in dish soap and maybe follow up with a scrubbing with Ajax powder. I know different mfg use different mixtures of resin and I don't want to throw a expensive kit into bleach white and find out there was some sort of reaction. Any one use bleach white on these kits? I have no problem following instructions, I just know I never had a paint bonding issue when I cleaned resin with bleach white and dish soap. Thanks in advance for your replys

That's going to be a neat build, I have one of these Astros in my stash. I'll be watching this one.

Here is a few pictures of the kit I am planning to build over the year. I am going to replicate a Schneider National cabover. The KFS kit is very nice, nice parts, and casting. I am using the Freightliner FLC as a donor chassis. Will be adding some aftermarket parts from CTM and fuel tanks from Auslowe. Decals are from Modeltruckin. Hope everyone enjoys watching this build, comments and suggestions are always welcomed.

Perfect, Thanks for your help Frank.

Thanks for the reply Frank, I've heard of some using I think it's 2k clear, I believe it's lacquer clear sold at Napa for duplicolor paint and it comes in a spray bomb, any one chime in if I'm wrong. But I'm going to give it a go on a junk cab and see how it works out.

Good Afternoon, what brand clear lacquer do you use? I would like to try it.

That's frustrating. I guess I'll experiment on a scrap piece of plastic, never used it before and was just assuming you have to thin it for the airbrush like their colors.

Thanks for the reply, that's what I was leaning towards, does Tamiya clear work well with Mr Color leveling thinner, like their colors do?

Good Morning All, I have used Future Floor with great success over enamel paints as a gloss clear coat with out issue. My question is, I have a Tamiya Acrylic flat color that I really like that I want to have a gloss finish for. I have read that some people have had a problem with the Tamiya paint wrinkling underneath a coat of future, seems to me the paint wasn't fully cured before a application of future or different cure rates between the two. Has anyone experienced that issue? Or what would your recommendations be for a gloss clear over a Tamiya flat? I also have Alclad Klear Coat that I haven't tried on anything yet. Look forward to your suggestions. Thanks

Good Morning All, Newer member here, I would like to be part of BRGB 2023. I am planning to build a KFS International 9670 resin cabover using the Freightliner FLC chassis as a donor. I will be replicating a Schneider National cabover. Just waiting on a few more parts to come in and will post pictures when I start a thread.

Thank you for your replys, I ended up sanding everything down again, washed it up good, and bought dupl color primer and it sprayed good and no issues. Thanks again guys and now have a new favorite primer to use, spray nice and smooth.