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Everything posted by D.Pack
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Thanks to reply. Heavy wet coats, those small Humbrol cans really blast out the contents and the dried surface, I can even catch my fingernail on it. Definitely more extreme than the blooming I've had when tried spraying in too cold weather. Already tried some sanding, does improve the finish. So now to sand the whole car! My Slixx nascars are jinxed am sure! Even when the decals lay down, the final step always fails. On another bodyshell, even had paint cracking due to a Microsol solution reaction.
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Hey all. Some advice please on how to complete this rattlecan clear. I used Humbrol semi-gloss acrylic, but I have read that humidity could be a cause of this frosted surface. It's possible, as at time of spraying it was a warm humid afternoon. Damage is done now, but how to fix or at least improve it? Rubbing compound to remove or will another clearcoat hide all this mess?
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I replied with this on another thread, but perhaps it's worth a post as a heads up for all us Euro members. This chart, can see the grade differences of USA and Euro wet'n'dry. Japan too have their own number system. Cutting compounds will also use this system? Meguiars vs Farecla for example. And another chart for the MicroMesh, also some different numbers but the same micron grade.
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Rattle can lacquer finish questions
D.Pack replied to atomicholiday's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Even with the various genuine MicroMesh, there are also 'equivalent' differences. And between USA and Euro. 800 USA = 1500 Euro, with USA having finer grades of regular paper. -
Rattle can lacquer finish questions
D.Pack replied to atomicholiday's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Could be some high points you can't see with a matt finish primer. My Nascar bodies, their wheelarches have some uneven edges that I can ONLY see when I sand down the gloss colour coat, always a glossy strip in-between the matt. -
Rattle can lacquer finish questions
D.Pack replied to atomicholiday's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
800 wet? Wow! Currently I am sanding this car down to 2400, so will stop here. Am keen to complete some painting jobs. Have also learned of primer pinholing whilst working on this. I had dozens of them. Have to say, am finding that a sanded colour coat is better to work than the actual primer. Surface problems are much easier to see. -
Rattle can lacquer finish questions
D.Pack replied to atomicholiday's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Am a rattlecan user, some great info here. But what if one must wetsand between coats? For orange peel or debris. What's the minimum grade for sanding to so that the recoat will easily cover the sanding scratches. 3000, 4000 or down to 12000? 'I sand between coats' or 'sand it out' is only part useful info. -
Good info. Will try the eraser. Also, I wonder if Gauzy contains some solvent. One of the decals curled up at edges. And I did find this, not truly for sealing decals.?
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This Gauzy clear, is supposed to be the same (almost) as Johnson's Klear and it's spin offs. I can find it's review videos, but nothing yet said on how to strip it. Will try the sanding of it.
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Hi all. Some advice needed on how to continue this build. I have brushed on Gauzy Agent acrylic clear to this car body, but with a lot of debris included. Annoying, body and paintbrush were both cleaned and free of dust. So, can this Gauzy Agent clear be sanded down and recoated and sanding marks will disappear? Or is an ammonia strip possible, dabbed on with Q Tips? And hopefully I can then complete this Nascar build.
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Most non chain/indy hardwear shops. They sell also a brand called AutoExtreme, costs even less money but the fumes are very noxious and not really worth the stink it produces.
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Are there many Limeys in here? So, £5 or less for 400ml. This SupaDec grey primer. Dries smooth, between Tamiya and Halfords and won't eat the styrene. The white though is a bit coarser when dry, like the Halfords Bodyshop primer.
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Auto metallics, grain size.
D.Pack replied to D.Pack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
From your other posts I see that you do also 1.1 painting of cars. So with auto rattlecans, is there an industry standard of flake size? And for custom car colour aerosols, will a supplier use an even smaller size if asked and if it's available? Am wanting a pearl finish, not metallic. Here in the UK I can buy online two custom 400ml cans of 1 colour and 1 clearcoat for £20. Which is equal to a regular off the shelf price. -
Auto metallics, grain size.
D.Pack replied to D.Pack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Perhaps (I hope) it was the brand of paint I used, Hycote. And Tamiya being out of scale too? I have their pearl clear, but not yet used. Here in UK, the other 1.1 paint is Halfords. Though there is a forum member who uses a flat coat, then a gloss coat over auto metallics which I will try out myself. -
A question for rattlecan metallics only, the acrylics for 1.1 cars. Is the powder/granules used, a larger size so they're cheaper to manufacture? Compared to thirty years ago? Here is a pic of my nascars from the 90's, the metallics look quite fine and almost in scale. I have this year tried a pearl and metallic rattlecan and surprised at how large the mica/flakes looked.
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Thanks for replies. A bodyshell twist is my main concern. Here in UK these Oldsmobile kits average £50, so a lot to spend for a kit needing the hot water bath to fix the bodyshell. I can straighten my Nascar shells to almost perfect, but they cost only £25. And I have ruined one out of four. Doh! So with the above info,something for me to consider if buying. Though the Castrol car is my favourite scheme, I don't see any for sale (in UK) at moment.
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Hi all. The 90's Monogram funny cars, Sentry and Raybestos Oldsmobile. How is the kit's quality? That long bodyshape, is it prone to warping and needs to be fixed? Like Mono's T Bird nascars which I also build. Am sure the old kit decals will be unusable too or just yellowed, but the old Slixx decals, are they also tough to work with? Not much choice, just Pisano and Rug Doctor cars.
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A NATO or rubber black? It's off black tone may give a different sheen.
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Hi all. Am looking for an opinion on the this Polyvine water based varnish, for use as a clearcoat alternative to Quickshine? I can't upload it's pdf details, but it has 'water based polyurethane copolymer with surfacrants'. That's for the chemists who can understand this terminology. It may be similar to Miniwax Polycrylic that US modellers use as a clearcoat
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Great Superflo build. I wonder if someone will eventually build all the DOT cars onto this body shape.
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Off black paint for scale effect.
D.Pack replied to D.Pack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
The glossy finish of a car is I think a problem to show a colour tone difference, unless it's race weathered and beaten or perhaps clean and very highly polished so light can reflect of certain areas? But anyways, for my Davey Allison #28 builds, I am to try these RAL code paints from Cosmoslac. Have bought Signal and Traffic black tones and a black/grey, see if all this overthinking is worth it. -
Well, I decided to strip and repaint. A lot more work on the roof flaps required.
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Food Dehydrators & Paint Dryers
D.Pack replied to JayVee's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Likely old news, but for the new buyers of dehydrators, do an actual temp check of your new machine. Perhaps the fan placement will decide on the heat produced? Some pics of my unit and stated temp vs actual temp. Am in UK so Celcius is being used. -
Off black paint for scale effect.
D.Pack replied to D.Pack's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have recently painted with a pearl black to attempt to 'lift' the shade, I think it does work to some extent. That pearl shows off the cars lines. This is to be a Rusty Wallace #2 car, the actual car is just gloss black. The nascar wheels, am painting with Tamiya NATO black as I do with the props on my WW2 aircraft. -
Hi all. Are there members here who are painting their 'black' cars very dark grey/off black? For scale effect? If you are, can you post some pics of your builds? Not everyone subscribes to scale effect I know, but when I have painted black 1.72 aircraft, it just looks wrong. So I always use an off black shade. In the past I have built two full black Nascars and was always disappointed with the finish, 25 years later I now know an off black would be preferable. And if you don't agree with scale effect, am on Britmodeller too, so know how a decisive subject this is!