D.Pack

No clear coat yet. And the roof flaps, that is excess putty/primer removed. What you see there is now actually level. It now does pass the fingernail test! My new dehydrator, just two hours of use and it caused all of the ghost seams to appear. I think due to the various fillers finally drying out, though they are already two months old. Milliput and ca glue/talc was used. The car's paint had already air dried naturally for a week and only one faint roof seam was visible, which is annoying.

Hi all. I need some advice on best way to fix this paint finish. Ghost seams, now only visible after the gloss coat was applied and here is them finally removed. But will a partial re -coat finish this to a good standard or a full recoat will be needed? The cowl area will be black, no problem there. But I assume there will be a tonal difference on the roof and hood? Paint is the (pricey) Tamiya TS rattlecan.

That's a great looking build. You have more photos to post? Show off that '96 scheme, which I now prefer to the 97 version! Would like to see how you've detailed the grilles too. Am soon to decal my own #8 using Slixx.

To the Finnish forum members. The KPRT model shop, is still open for trading? And do they sell to rest of Europe? When I try to register with them as customer, my email is always declined.

Great looking car and the grille tape detail is a cool touch. The decals, you clearcoat the sheet before using? I have two of these Pontiac kits to build along with their Slixx sheets.

That #12 is excellent. And it's weathering,what references are you using? If I search for 'dirty/weathered nascars,' my results are the Bristol dirt race or Nascar's dirtiest drivers!

Have been researching more on this. Viewing more videos and the cost of moulding supplies here in UK, not so expensive. I assumed costs would be sky high. Unless I make many mistakes. Will consider this, learn more on similar mouldings like this flat and thin hood.

A great shop in Lincoln city centre, good selection of car kits on 2nd floor. Ground floor is railway kit. Tamiya spray cans and brush paint stockist too. And in Boston is a bubble car museum.

Hi all. The image, the hood is from an ASA Fel-Pro T-Bird. If possible how would I make a replica? A cast of it perhaps? I have an old built ASA Zerex T-Bird without a hood. Lost in time somewhere. It's a tricky shape,centre ridge and with a slight lip at top edge.

Well, I should have used the site's search function. These paints are being used for ten years already! Good to know they are valid to use.

Hi all. Maston One sprays from Finland, any forum members used these already? A lot of colours in gloss and satin and at £3 less per 400ml can than auto paint, looks to be a good option. They also have 2K cans that can be partly used and stored. No expiry limits.

Buying yourself a hefty stash? I did the same thing this past autumn. Though here in the UK their average price is about £25 each. Hellfire. And you posted the Flintstones car too?, am in middle of decals for that same car.

I was to put to put this Q in Randy's forum, but perhaps this body mod is not just nascar specific. So, to anyone who has completed this mod, what are the ways it can fail? If any.I have viewed the old online guides. I want to cut off the lower rounded portion and install a styren strip, side skirts and fill in the join, for a Monte and a T-Bird. For the Monte Carlo, no putty is used for blending the sides, only on the joint. But the T-Bird mod, appears to use a lot of putty as nothing is cut from its bodyshell. Looks easy (well...) if done correctly. But if not, is the bodyshell dumped. Can it be saved?

The nun? From a 'smoking nun' Google search, if smoking nuns are a thing. Ha! Also the pads, still using them and find that a 3000 is about same as a 2000 Micromesh.

Have just started using cut strips of these Mirka Abralon pads. 3 to 4000 grit. They have a 6mm sponge backing, which makes them fit great to the large curved sections of this T-Bird without causing uneven pressure.

Thanks to reply and the polymers Vs adhesion tip. I forget that these auto finishers are to fix clearcoat, not the paint before to clearcoat. Today while buying gritpaper, I was given some Farecla G3 Pro paste to try out. Removed some scratches and gained some too, as I used a microfiber cloth to apply, not the correct sponge applicator, which are £8 for two! The Meguiars Ultimate, it does infill so I think I'll try this.

In the USA do you have a chain of mid range hardware stores? Not the big Home whatever warehouses. Here in UK, this Quickshine is a longtime alternative that's the home brand of our 'Lakeland' stores. One small UK company can't be the only people marketing this? And google 'britmodeller quickshine' for some reviews of this wax.

Hi all. If treating a painted body with Meguiars Scratch X or similar and the faint scratches are'nt then visible, will a decal then make those scratches reappear? This type of polish, it removes the scratch edges rather than infilling. I will be using decal setting solutions to pull them tight onto the bodyshell. I want the paint just glossy enough so the decals don't silver up. Also, the final clearcoat will be a semi-gloss finish (nascars). I assume this will also help to hide scratches?

I will for sure try that balloon hack. And an interesting Google search for static/painting. Static free paint guns? Can effect metallic finish? Lots of info.

Thanks for your replies. Also, today I painted another nascar shell, with debris problem again*, but luckily it fell onto the roof flap. I can use its panel lines to mask off and repair. And about sanding down the colour coat, how smooth to go for the paint to key? I go down to 8000 for my primer, the same or 12000 to continue spraying the above blue colour? *I may start to wear a hair net when spraying!

Hi all. Joined up last week after months of lurking. Just starting to build Nascars again after a few years on 1/72 aircraft. Have been learning about slabsides too,who knew? Not me! My last build was back in the 90's. So I hope to have improved my skills since then. Next year, I should (hopefully) have new builds to post.

Hi everyone. A new forum member from UK with a first post on how to proceed with sanding out faults. Never had to (or cared to) do this before. So, I stopped to spray this bodyshell as I had some debris in the paint. No problem, I'll just sand it out, but then how much to continue sanding? You can see the primer showing, is this normal when builders are sanding between coats? How is the new paint going to lay?