mcs1056

With the exception of a future Saturn V rocket kit, everything I have is 1:24 or 1:25, and all cars or pickups. Since I haven’t built a model in 50 years, my current build will be as received in the box (painted, of course). My question regards proper scale for detail parts for future kits. I like watching videos where builders add plug wires, bolt heads, and other custom details, and I want to do some of that myself. However, some folks put stuff on that’s way too big. It makes the finished product look amateurish. Plug wires and hoses come to mind. So…I look at online catalogs, but don’t know if a 0.9mm hose joint is more to scale than a 1.5mm joint. As I’m housebound for a little bit longer, I can’t get to a hobby store to look, so I’m asking here. What size stuff should I use? Mike

Reading of decanting and , I just this morning. Did you know that spray can decanted fluids still hold some of the gas? So I, being a smart feller, let it gas for about a half hour, until it stopped bubbling. This was a couple of days ago. With the contents in a Pre-Val jar, I put it on the shelf after I sprayed what I wanted. GREAT! This morning, I grabbed that jar and gave it a good shake to mix. Upon opening the jar, I learned that the stuff had further gassed, and became a spray bottle again when I spun off the top. Hands now white. Workbench now white. To be blue model body now white. Tops of shoes...guess what. Though none of the decanting videos I had seen referenced this phenomena, it seems like one should have let the stuff gas until it fully hardens in the jar. Learn from me, folks. My life is full of lessons. (We can talk about removing the bellcrank from a LearJet fuel control some day)

You could use a boat bilge vent fan. These inline units are designed to vent possible gasoline fumes, so they are safe. Despite being for boats, theyaren't that expensive ($35.00?). They do run on 12VDC, so you would need to adapt to that, or use a car or motorcycle battery for it.

If you want that Bondo to go on more smoothly, add some fiberglass resin to the putty before you add the hardener. It doesn't take much resin, and in the right ratio, it goes on smooth and without bubbles. FG resin is completely compatible with Bondo.

I NEVER sand anything. (Yes...you know I stole the picture from the site.)

I have seen similar works at garage and estate sales. I always passed on them. However, I'm now inclined to start picking up some, as they remind me of my book shelf in the 60's & 70's. It was full of unpainted warships, joints with big gaps, brushed-on Testors paint, and model glue fingerprinted windshields.

Wanna do another?

I would be most appreciative if you could point me to a source for one of these.

I have to ask...was this a kit as a convertible, or did you chop and fabricate? If it was a 'vert kit, what company? I have a hardtop I'm planning to mod to make a copy of my actual car, but I need to re-hone my skills before I start it. Thanks in advance.

I have this. It can spin VERY slow (250 RPM). There are several similar to it, and I picked this one because it comes with a quick-change pin vise. I dont trust anything spinning fast near plastic, so I got this for drilling. I will use it to apply polish, too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DK1D7LCC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title