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Everything posted by mcs1056
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Personally, I'd return them. I've said I would be unlikely to buy 3D stuff too often. These look unsalvageable. You paid for Cooper tires with those wheels. Even the lettering is bad. If you're so happy with the wheels, it may be a different story. However, those tires are, in my opinion, not good enough. That is, of course, unless the were presented as shon and you still bought them.
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Welp I gotta say goodbye to my Crown Vic😥
mcs1056 replied to NYLIBUD's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Can't even use that front end for an F100. -
show cars & advertising specials
mcs1056 replied to sidcharles's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
If you haven't already, check out the "Weenie 500," run at Indy this summer... -
Really like those armrests and the raised seats. Does raising the seats create steering wheel interference? I see many kits with ridiculously close-to-seat wheels...without seat mods.
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Plenty of detail remains when he's done. Besides, on model kits, rivets and panel lines are almost always exaggerated. This allows polishing that BMF would never stand up to. On real aircraft, we always follow the final polish with a rub down with flour (yep...that baking stuff) on a rag. This draws out polish residue you can't get out any other way. You'll be surprised how black the flour gets after the rub, and by how much "shinier" the aluminum is.
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I've seen websites with "Wish List" options. Folks could let you know what they would want. One even had a "Second" button, so they could better guage broader interest. Of course, that might not prevent the original suggesting person from seconding multiple times, unless there was some block or signature requirement. (EDIT: I recently ranted about not paying for 3D stuff. Looking at your site, those engines are REALLT tempting! Nice stuff.)
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I don't build kits for contests, just as I don't take my 1:1 Galaxie to car shows (OK...I take it, but I park in the lot and go look at the other cars). In fact, I doubt that I'll ever even go to a model car show. I don't build kits to impress my friends or neighbors, who wouldn't know (or care) that the doors didn't open out of the box. I certainly don't build kits to grease the pockets of those 3D printers who make a slightly better window crank handle than I can scratch build, or to invest in bags of "plug wires" or pre-fabbed distributors. I built my XL for me to enjoy driving. I build kits to enjoy the time spent...to relax...and for them to sit on a shelf. I LIKE making crank handles, just as I LIKED almost breaking my back taking the intake manifold off of the 390. If someone came to my house and pointed out that my fittings weren't faceted, I likely wouldn't show them the door, but I would have a revised opinion of them.
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"Dude!!! They're disc brakes. Why are you telling me it took four hours and five cutting wheels to get the drum off? Then, you added the cost of some drum brake pads to the bill!!!. I aint paying you!" - Screamed at me by a guy whose rear disc brake parking/emergency brake shoes were worn to the rivets and seized after 250,000 miles and 18 years.
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Paint a tube with a red Sharpie. Paint a bead with a blue Sharpie. Using the metallic Sharpies is even better, but not necessary. Slide a tube over your "hose," followed by a bead, gluing both. You now have an AN hose end, and can make a hundred more. I got these through Amazon, but they are available at Michael's and Hobby Lobby.
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I'm with Pete on this. If I don't HAVE TO use a primer, I don't. I've had pretty good luck prepping bare plastic for paint only. I agree with him in that; Every layer of anything diminishes detail. Emblems on these things are small enough before we start. Having said that...sure looks like many here who do spray primer get better results than mine. I realize that this is, in no small part, due to my "newbieness." I defer to the experts.
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What did you see on the road today?
mcs1056 replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
By George...I think he's got it! Though my recollection is a boxier piece, perhaps it was 40 years of wear 'n tear that made it appear so. -
What did you see on the road today?
mcs1056 replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Nope. I saw a box. -
What did you see on the road today?
mcs1056 replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Nope. I saw a box. -
What did you see on the road today?
mcs1056 replied to Harry P.'s topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Maybe someone here can help me. I was driving home from Chicago this past Sunday, enjoying the misery that was the Bears post game radio show. On the freeway, I passed some sort of mini campervan. It was a box...vertical front, sides and back, and no taller than my standard pickup truck. It may have been longer than my truck. The driver sat low in the very front, as if the engine was between the seats, or somewhere in the back. The thing looked like what a chopped Winnebago could be, though it did not appear to be a home-built. The only marking I could make out as I passed it was an emblem that had one word (ten letters?), followed by "-21" Searching the googlenet, I found no images with a resemblance. I couldn't get a picture of it, as I was doing 80 MPH at the time. Any thoughts? -
In Hobby Lobby for other stuff, I saw this. Might it work? Might be wrong size. Thumb intentionally there for scale.
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Wires for hoses and lines and stuff...
mcs1056 replied to Lionel's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
A supply of tiny wire can be found inside those super-reliable iPhone charger cables. When it stops working about a week after purchase, just cut the ends off and strip the rubber outer sheath. The attached pic shows what's inside: A- The first thing you'll see after removing the rubber; Put shrink wrap on it for a radiator hose? Put ends on it for a hot rod hose? B- A bit of fiberglass(?) for cable strength or something. C, D, and E- Some braided stainless. F and G- Itsy-bitsy wires. One green and one white. H- One larger red wire. I- The braided stainless shielding seen in A-, but with all of the guts removed. I scrunched (sorry about using technical terms) it together to show how big one could make it. J- A thin aluminum (NOT aluminium...USA! USA! USA!) wrap that is dull on one side and shinier on the other. Now, I don't have access to my Vernier clamp. Thus, the best I could do is the ruler for size comparison. I will not pay Detail Master, or anyone else, for their little bits of wire. -
You must have gotten a Monday morning caliper. Seems like mine was made on a Wednesday, right after lunch. The one I just bought gradually gets worse, being a 16th off by three inches. Definitely clamp material.
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To get good images of individual parts for car kits I'm building or planning, I've recently begun to search Facebook Marketplace. The pic below is one example. Along with the four-in-one pic, the seller had individual shots of each. Want detail for the inside structure of your kit hood? Someone is selling one, and there are likely good pics. Another thing about this is that many sellers also have related items for sale. Clicking on their "Seller Details" will get you to a list of items currently open or sold. Though I'm not as good as most of you, I hope to use images like these to scratch build or modify kit parts to add more authenticity to my builds. You can be a general or specific as you want in your search. EDIT: Looks like I should have put this in "1:1 Reference Photos." If moderator could move it...
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How are you adding the member links to these posts?
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Got this from the internet. Perhaps (Likely) your source is better.
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So, for 1:1 world 3/4" rocks, all you need to do is go out and find some .011" rocks. N Scale ballast is listed as .2 to .3 mm, which is about 0.0007" to 0.0011". This seems small for your stated purpose. I'm with Ace.
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I've really been digging JB Superweld, UV-Curing. It is medium viscosity. It has a reasonable tip on which I've put the CA glue "extenders" once. Takes a hard squeeze, but it comes out. Better to use the looped wire, or Peteski's chopped needles, for precise placement. I do use all three BSI glues, and folks above are right, their kicker is great. I don't use the included sprayer. I just dip a brush in for better control and less waste.
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I meant that latest post to be an admission of my failure to notice vernier element. You pointed it out and I then saw it. I was wrong. You continue to be awesome. As for your inability to find them on the HF site; You are probably correct, and I am probably wrong...again. The attached pic is likely a figment of my imagination. I begin to doubt my sanity, vision, and camera, again (though that is my thumb). (Is the pic actually there??? Are any of us really here??? Who is John Galt???) Regarding the thread moving to verniers; Sorry 'bout dat.