mcs1056

My prescription has changed, so I have about 100 each of the pictured items available. These are from insulin injection pens. All are brand new. I don't do dioramas, and wonder if anyone wants some or all, to make some kind of thing. (The clear bit looks like it would make something like the red light atop the Batmobile) These would be free for the asking, and I can pay the shipping. As I noted, all are unused.

Is that card...as is my Social Security card...signed by a nine-year-old version of the current adult?

So, how long does it really take to cure under the light. The kit I have never really did. The pieces I tried were clear, not thick, and not bigger than a dime. Sitting overnight it was OK, but the demos I've seen make it seem like 30-second magic. Everything was from China, so my getting junk would not be a surprise.

I used the craft foam. The first time, it was too bulky. I stripped it off and tried again. This time I flattened it out a bit with the wife's rolling pin. Then I used a pizza cutter to do the tuckery and rollery. Came out great. Another option is to cut out the plastic and replace it with the T&R'd foam. Back that up (under or behind the seat or side panel) with putty or sprue goo to get the profile you want.

Negative on the 427 comment. The '66 7 Litre in my garage still has its original 428.

I'll just answer your question. I have a Fortress 2-gallon compressor, from Harbor Freight. Its quiet enough to use in my upstairs room, and the tank keeps the cycling way down. It plugs into any wall outlet. Its been two years with zero issues. I did add the usual water separator and an additional filter. I also put it on a play-pen pad to dampen any vibrations through the wood floor, though this was unnecessary. I got mine for $129.00, but the price has risen recently. They also have a 1-gallon version, which should work just fine. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-oil-free-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64596.html

Seeing the results of "haphazard," I'll go with that process any day, thank you.

OK. You can't leave us newbies hanging. What colors, and a litle technique guidance, please.

OK. I have to retract this one (and so soon, too!). I just saw and bought this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/197393963012. It's amazing...what you can find on the intergoogle. I figure the cost of it is the same as what I paid for the '68 AMT kit (which is really a '67 kit, but I'm a dope) added to the cost of getting a '70 just for the roof line. However, I won't then be wasting the rest of the '70. See, if you calculate the multiplicative inverse of the reciprocal, divided then by the root of the hypotenuse squared, one can easily determine that the smell of the color chartreuse is definitely greater than or equal to the roofline of a '68. Am I clear, now?

I'm also "having trouble" finding a '67 or '68 Cougar. Saw two on on Ebay: - $42.00 FOR THE EMPTY BOX. - $40.00 with mangled rear wheel arches.

I have a newer version of the '68, but my 1:1 was a 2-door Bel Air. It wasn't a fastback, as the kit is. I'm in search of a '70 Impala kit (or better...an unused body), as that has the proper-looking roof line, which I would graft into the '68 kit. I've already reworked the rear bumper from three taillights to two. Just need that roof. The few '70 kits I've seen were ridiculously high priced for something I'd be chopping up.

Cursing engineers is nothing new. If you ever had to rig the flap cables on an old LearJet...two hands AND a tensiometer through a tiny access panel in the wing...then trying to get that tool onto the cable properly...then trying to flip the tool lever to take the tension reading...then seeing that the only way to get the tool on the cable was to put it on upside-down SO YOU CAN'T READ THE TENSION. At least your hands came out bleeding. Oh well. Lears were fast and cool-looking.

Very nice looking. Were the carbob-fiber covers part of the kit, or did you do that? I was hoping to find a Tamiya 1/6 '69 CB750 Four kit f(for less than a year's salary), but am headed to an Aoshima 1/12. Hopefully I can get somewhere near your work quality.

My '69 428 Mach 1 weighed in at around 3600 lbs. At only about 400HP, it would act the same if I were a similar idiot. In that car, I knew to never turn the steering wheel at speed, as it didn't handle anything like today's versions. I never really knew how Camaros handled, as they were always behind me.

Try this. I've done it on one so far. Came out nice. The stuff seems a bit thick to use on seats of a 1:25/25 kit, but headliner use is cool.

I remember viewing a YouTube video of a guy building a large scale USS Iowa kit. He was concerned about painting the hull, so he bought a mini spray gun. Barbatos Rex tests a cheap one in he video below. I have a detail gun for painting 1:1s that work well for that purpose, though I've not tried it on a model kit. I also have a gun mini gun that came with a Temu order. I haven't used it yet, though.

How did you manage the cross-hatch pattern in the vinyl top, which shows up well in the second pic? It looks just as I think I remember them being 1:1.

an old work buddy had a set of books from Germany, 1937. They had a picture of a '37 Ford frame inside the back cover. As you turned pages, which were transparencies, backwards toward the front of the books, you added layers to the previous pages. So, Bare frame on the last page; Rear and front suspension bits when you turn one page; Next page added shocks and some other stuff; And so on, through to the body panels. The absolute coolest automotive pieces I've ever seen. I offered hom $500 for the pair. He said he'd think about it. He retired, never addressing the issue again. These did not begin my interest, but definitely led my down a googlenet rabbit hole.

I have an older Ionic Breeze Air Purifier I run almost full-time. It was good enough to de-funk my son's goalie pads,and it works great in my "I guess you don't want to spend time with me" room.

Oh, C'mon. Did you ever buy a Dodge built after lunch on a Wednesday? WAY worse fit than that.

So; Is there something to be done to protect wheels and cases? Something to keep tires from "melting" them on the shelf? Epoxy? Tape? Polyrazzmatazz? I'll be dead long before this comes into play on anything I'll build, but I don't want my grandchildren to think I'm the ignoramus I really am.

I'll have to head to Cali to get some of the #8 tires I need.

Got the first item pictured a little bit ago. Planning to repaint to become a "Twin Pines Dairy" truck, which was the local milk & egg delivery service here when I was a kid. Teardown to begin this weekend.

Awful lot of body shaming going on here. I thought that was "cringe."

A tire did that??? I get that it's easy to see, but I had no idea. I'm on my first kit in fifty years, so... Do tires similarly affect plastic display cae platforms?