Bernard Kron

Very nice. What's the paint and color? Beautifully applied.

I performed my usual fettling on the Revell ’32 Ford front suspension, a variation of the Tim Boyd Drop (Thanx Tim!) where you narrow the spring-mount tab to lift the front suspension closer to the crossmember. I also removed two spring leaves and notched the rails at the front crossmember to lower things some more. The rear suspension is essentially at the stock height, the lowering coming from the approx. 4 scale inch Z-job. Below are a couple of stance check photos with the tires I’m going to use (from Modelhaus, T-120 fronts and I-lost-the-label-on-the baggy-so I-don’t-know rears). There’s virtually none of the rake of the Stroupe car but not it’s not quite as low as the Lacy car. The last photo compares the two bodies with the leading edge at the firewall flat to the ground. You can see the enormous difference in size of the two with respect to cowl height. I make the Deuce almost 8 scale inches taller in that dimension compared to the ’27 T. This will require a chopped grill shell to get a proper line from the cowl. I was planning on using a Moder Car Garage p/e grill anyway and they can be ordered with either 4” and 6” chopped shells, one of which should do the job. You’ll notice that both the Stroupe and Shimaya cars have chopped shells, but I think I want a bit more shell showing between the front rails so I’m guessing I’ll opt for the 4” chopped version. Now that the basic stance is established it’s time to fill the space in front of the firewall…. Thanx for lookin’, B.

What's the steering wheel and dashboard combo? I'm not happy with my padded dashboard idea... Also where/how did you find/make the Limefires? Inquiring minds want to know!

Tim, the interesting thing about the body shell you used is that it includes the correct panel detail below the lower edge of the turtle deck, something I haven't see anywhere else. On the other hand... it has a cowl seam just below the top door hinge, something which is not present in any of the 1:1's I've seen.... Your ,build is a really pure expression of the kitbash aesthetic. Very cool!

Thanx again, guys! Wayne, your very kind. You might be interested to know that Dennis Lacy works with his dad in his dad's shop called The V8 Garage. They specialize in pure, period correct hot rods from the immediate pre- and post-war period. Dennis grew up around this stuff and built his '27T a few years back at the tender age of 25. Another HAMB member started his own version when he was 21 and Dennis contributed a post expressing how envious he was that that guy could start his "so young". I think it's incredibly exciting that these guys can create rods that so perfectly "get it" without all the "rivet counting" of slavish copies. I consider your comment a very big compliment because it addresses the very heart of why I build model cars.

The interior pieces are now completed. There’s still a bit of smoothing and polishing to do but I’m confident the fit is good and it’s time to move on to the stance and chassis setup so I can get an idea of what I have going on here. The bench seat and side panels are Revell ’32 Ford Highboy pieces radically massaged to fit the much smaller ’27T interior. The side panels have been shortened, sectioned, curved somewhat, and trimmed to fit the sides of the ’27 properly. In the photos they’re held in place with tape so the fit, especially at the rear up by the top of the seat, is not as precise as it will be during final assembly. The bench seat had 3 pleats removed on each side and 1/8th inch half-round stock added and shaped to conform to the side of the cabin. The dashboard is the custom part from an AMT ’37 Chevy coupe kit, narrowed down and squared up to fit the ‘27’s cowl. Using a tuck and roll dash is an indication of the direction I’m headed in. I think I’ll be combining some of the early 60’s show car aspect of the Twister with the more conservative vibe of the Stroupe car but with the sleek stance of Dennis’s roadster. Thanx for lookin’, B.

That ‘27T is just breathtaking, Tim! Of course it’s a LoBoy. I built a LoBoy ‘27T a couple of years ago. It was done in a late-50’s show car style, not the handsome Contemporary Traditional TRJ style of this one. Also, my modeling skills have progressed since then so I guess I’d better do another one… Over on the TRaK board Dennis Lacy posted some comments about the origins of all the ‘27T roadster resin repops out there. In them he referenced an article you wrote around 1992. Here’s what he said: The original body was made and sold by Ron Anderson's All American Models in the early 90's. I have an '92(ish) issue of Street Rodder magazine and in the Modeler's Corner column by Tim Boyd there is a picture from an NNL show, showing the body and describing at as newly available. It was in primer posed on '32 chassis. (Since then it has been sold by Altered States, Bandit, Jimmy Flintstone and maybe others.) I have studied it and the cowl/door area is from the AMT '27 Touring and the back may be modified from the XR7 (which was a '27 roadster under all that ugly) which came with the '27 Touring as a double kit in the first couple of issues. The body is okay but is more representative of a 1-piece fiberglass body and needs a lot of adjustment (mostly in the sides of the turtle deck) to look like one that came from Henry. It also shares the same problem with the '27 Touring in that the cowl top is flat when it should be nice and round. The Revell John Buttera '27 Touring body is much, much better in this regard. He also provided some pictures he took on the last day he had his car before shipping it off to its new owner in Australia. They’re much better than the ones I found on line. He also posted some photos of the Coco Shimaya ‘27T roadster, a sort of upscaled take on his car. The Dennis Lacy ‘27T on its last day in SoCal: The Coco Shimaya ‘27T roadster:

You did just what was needed. Great color, stance and choice of details.

Ford ’27 T buckets are relatively rare in the scale model world. The main reason for this is because there are no kits and very few supporting parts for them. Virtually everything must be either kit –bashed or scratch built. This is ironic because resin re-pops of some mysterious and, as far as I’ve been able to find, undocumented donor model are commonly available from several different resin vendors. IMHO far and away the finest resin 27 T is made by Altered States Models: super crisp, styrene-like and with a very nice partial firewall detail. This is the basis for this project. I’ve been wanting to build a ’27 T highboy for a long time. There are 3 influences that I’ll site, 2 I think are each exceptional in their own way, and one that is iconic and which I have never liked. The icon is the George Barris Twister T, AMBR winner in 1962. For me this car is a bad dream with a sky high stance and countless details which crash into each other in a most unpleasant fashion. Unfortunately, like many bad dreams, this one remains firmly entrenched in my memory and has been since I was a boy. Making a list of what needs to be corrected on this car will lead to a very nice 27 T highboy indeed. The Barris Twister T: Most closely related to the Twister T, indeed in many ways the Barris car “done right”, comes out of Roy Brizio’s shop in the early 90’s and featured in Volume 1, No. 1 of The Rodders Journal. Classic Brizio in every way, and an indicator of what was to be the “TRJ Look” in the years to come, it’s immaculate, period correct, and tasteful. Built for James Stroupe, pictures of it are virtually non-existent on the web, so these are scans from my copy of TRJ. The Stroupe ’27 T Hiboy: And finally, probably my favorite, the ex-Dennis Lacy car first made known to me by Dennis a few years back with a magical photo of the car at Big Bear. The polar opposite of the Stroupe car, but a deadly serious period hot rod and no aRt Rod in any way. Loaded with authentic pre-’48 parts and a full house flattie, what makes this car special to my eyes is the perfectly balanced stance, a true highboy in character, but graceful and sleek nonetheless. These are the only pictures I was able to find remaining on the net that show the car to advantage. The stance of this car is where I would like to go, but perhaps with a somewhat later period in finish and detail. The Dennis Lacy ’27 T Highboy: So now to the job at hand. I’m trying not to let this project get away from me, so I’ve decided to let it’s Revell Deuce roots show through somewhat. The frame is Revell Deuce, and quite likely much of the suspension will be, too. The most difficult thing about doing a resin 27 T is that no interiors exists for the car. So if you’re going for a proper tuck ‘n’ roll interior you have a challenge ahead of you. In my case I’ve found a way to adapt the Revell side panels and bench seat from the original Highboy ’32 Ford issue. The chassis is z’d at the rear in an attempt to achieve some of the balance of the Lacy car. So far I have no wheels/tires or suspension on the build so we’ll see how that goes. I’m planning on a Deuce grille shell so my car will be quite different. I’m shooting for some sort of period OHV V8, probably with a fair bit of chrome to pay to my recurring Twister T nightmare. I’ve done a ton of Caddy powered rods so it will quite likely have to be something else.. Below are the initial build pics. Thanx for lookin’, B.

Thanx again guys. For me it's always about capturing The Look. Which by no means is to ignore technique - a crummy paint job, visible seams, misaligned parts, inappropriate details, etc., will kill a build every time - but all the skill in the world won't save a goofy looking car. Ironically, knowing that to be the case allows me to focus on the skills side even more. Even after nearly 6 years back in to car modeling each project involves a lot of new or evolving skills. As simple as this build was, it was no exception. I'm just glad it came out looking like I had hoped it would...

Thanx everyone! I'm glad you all enjoyed it. Given just how few changes I applied to the basic kit, I was surprised at how much of a difference they made. The chopped windshield and raked stance are a must-do in my book, but the matte finish, especially in black, also had a major impact. It's been a long time since I did a primer rod, but you can be sure I'll be doing another one soon enough! And yeah, the "therapy" worked!

I used those seats in my Rat Roaster project, finished with Testors Aluminum Plate Metalizer. The resin ones I had were already drilled out with only very thin flash to remove in the holes and slots. My general approach with my Rat Roaster was to tone down the corny details while conserving most of the original's basic themes. For the interior I went with the Speedway Motors Hot Rod Bomber Seats, drilled out the fake "holes" in the door panels and rear bulkhead, and used a metallic finish for a more utilitarian vibe. For the motor I ditched the exaggerated blower and carburetion and went with Kinsler style dirt track fuel injectors and K&N air filters.

Time to bump this fabulous collection of quarter milers which hasn't been updated in a year. So here are a couple of my more recent diggers: Hemi powered Junior Fueler made from a cut down Ramchargers kit: My take on the new Monogram Slingster revival:

Thanx for the tip, John. I will definitely try it since even a tough primer like Duplicolor is still a dirt and grease magnet and a bear to deal with during final assembly.

Here's my latest '32, the Therapy Deuce, so named because it was a quick build to overcome the disappointment of having trashed an in-progress '51 Chevy custom by melting the body... Mainly Out-Of-The-Box, and my first primer rod in a very long time.

Thanx. The Therapy Deuce is done and the Under Glass pics can be found here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91300&hl=

Just as it was in the 1980's for digital 2-D, there's a great deal of work yet to do, especially to address low-market-value, hobbyist endeavors like miniature models, which require very high resolution output and standardized, easy to manipulate file creation software. But the challenges are well known and in focus so it will come in due course.

The Therapy Deuce - Revell ’32 Ford Highboy Roadster, because Basic Black is always in fashion… After trashing an AMT ’51 Chevy fastback coupe following several weeks’ work in it, by melting it under my workbench lights, I needed a quick pick-me-up to get the juices flowing again. Having built numerous Revell 1/25th scale Deuces of various flavors over the past few years I knew doing one largely out-of-the-box would go quickly, with a minimum of drama, and with a decent chance of a pleasing result – just what the doctor ordered. So, starting with an original series Revell Highboy Roadster kit, and modifying only those things which I consider absolutely the minimum to address the kit’s shortcoming, here’s the result. I even went so far as to do it in black primer to avoid any risks involved in color coats, clear and polish! It took me 5 days to complete and had the desired effect…, I’m ready for the next project. Thanx for lookin’, B. All parts from an original issue Revell 1/25th scale Highboy Roadster kit except as noted. Chassis: Front suspension lowered by removing 2 spring leaves and notching front crossmember. Front bumper bracket notches filled. Wheels and Tires: Front wheels are AMT ’51 Chevy steelies with skinny front tires courtesy of Speed City Resin. 10” reversed rear wheels by Plastic Performance from Early Years Resin. Motor: Kit valve covers shaved and smoothed. Carter AFB carburetor from Early Years Resin. Distributor and coil from Morgan Automotive Detail. Interior: Kit bench seat notched and repositioned to create raised bolster. ’40 Ford dashboard and steering wheel adapted from Revell ’32 Ford 5-window coupe kit. Worn ox blood leather surfaces made using Testors Acryl British Crimson paint and black wash. Dashboard finished in clear gloss. Body and Paint: Kit windshield chopped 2.25 scale inches. Stock hood sides from Revell ’32 Ford 5-window coupe kit. Firewall filled and smoothed to convert from single “curtain rod” hood brace to proper twin braces made from .020” music wire. Firewall finished in clear gloss. Body and frame rails finished in Duplicolor Black Primer. Wheels finished in Duplicolor Flash Red gloss paint. Chassis and motor detailed in various shades of Testors Metalizer.

And then later:

Thanx everyone! This project is moving along quickly now. I’m deep into the assembly stage where it pays to be careful, especially with flat black paint which shows the slightest marks and stains all too clearly. There are so many things I now take for granted in building these Revell Deuces – revisions I make as a matter of course with hardly a thought, corrections to what I consider basic flaws. The first thing I do is lower the front end. The stance of the basic kit is just so bland. The next thing I do is ditch the wide front tires! They’re so mid-90’s… If it’s fenderless then I fill the bumper bracket notches in the frame horn tips. The molding dips in the plastic of the frame rails get attention if they’re bad (it depends on the vintage of the kit). And of course, if it’s a highboy, that awful “curtain rod” brace between the firewall and the grill shell absolutely has to go. So that means filling the hole in the firewall and making two small ones for a proper pair of braces on either side made from .020” music wire. So even though this is largely an out-of-the-box build there’s really a fair amount of preliminary prep involved. Here’s a workbench progress shot showing where things are at now over the past 24 hours. The body and interior are glued in place, the motor finished and detailed and installed, the suspension completed and the grill installed as well. The wheels are glued in place, too. What’s left is making the aforementioned grill shell braces, installing the seat and steering wheel, installing the lighting and license plate, and all the small stuff like the door handles, gas cap, etc. I might have this done tomorrow night if I don’t mess up along the way… Thanx, for lookin’, B.

After melting a ’51 Chevy Fastback Coupe right after completing 3 weeks of bodywork and paint (see: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91021 for all the gory details) I needed some simple therapy to get the modeling juices flowing again. For me nothing’s more therapeutic than a Deuce Roadster. And simple too, if I want it to be, having built countless Revell Deuces of one sort or another in the past few years. So I decided to build a Deuce Highboy as straight out of the box as my sensibilities would allow. To keep finish work to a minimum I decided on a primer paint job, in this case Duplicolor Black Primer. Except for the front wheels (AMT ’51 Chevy – yeah, you guessed it…) and tires (courtesy of Speed City Resin, the rear wheels (Plastic Performance Holman & Moody 10” steelies supplied by Early Years Resin) and the Carter AFB carburetor (also from Early Years), everything else is from the old series Revell Good Guys Deuce Highboy or a related kit (the dashboard and steering wheel are from the 5-window coupe). I started this 3 days ago and hope to have it done within the next 2… Simple and to the point in a subject I know well. Just what the doctor ordered! Thanx for lookin’, B.

Thanks for all the comments. I'll get back to this in a few months once I'm over the initial shock of my major screw up. In the meantime I'm in the middle of a Therapy Build that I started 3 days ago and hope to finish within the next 2. A simple Deuce roadster, just what I need about now. Here's a teaser:

Not for the squeamish! This is truly embarrassing. As I was writing my post for the start of this w.i.p. I had left my work lamps on, the Chevy’s body raised close to one of them to get the right lighting and photo angle. After posting I went back into my work room to find this!!!!: There’s just enough damage to the right fender to mean the body is toast as well as the hood. So stupid of me! I’m too disheartened to tackle the whole thing a second time right now, so I’ll move on to another project and get back to this with a second kit, perhaps later this year. Thanks for the kind comments. Sorry for the false alarm! B.

I’ve been working on this for the past few weeks. It’s an AMT ’51 Chevy fastback coupe done as a mid-50’s mild custom. The body was completely nosed, decked and shaved, then new simplified accent trim was added to the sides above the front and rear wheel openings. The trim was made from thin triangular Plastruct styrene stock and will be foiled. The skirts are the stock Chevy units from the kit, extended to match the lower edge of the rear fender using quarter round styrene stock. The headlights are fully frenched and lidded using the stock kit headlight buckets with styrene stock added for the lid extensions. The grille is the stock kit piece with the center bar removed and a ’54 Pontiac center inserted. It still needs some work to get it properly lined up. The front bumpers have been shaved and custom bullets from the AMT ’53 Ford Pickup kit added. The rear bumper will be the kit custom piece to go with the kit roll pan I installed. The front end has been lowered using the kit lowering assembly and lowering blocks added at the rear to even out the rake. The undercarriage is finished in Duplicolor Wimbledon White with the chassis finished in the same color as the body, Tamiya TS-54 Light Blue Metallic Pearl. The front fender liners and firewall will be Wimbledon White, with the kit modified 6-banger finished with a gold block and head, Wimbledon white valve cover, and quite a bit of chrome bright work. The interior will be a custom tuck ‘n’ roll and promises to be the most tedious and difficult part of the project. Tires will be AMT whitewalls and I’m planning on using mid-50’s style bullet-center wheel covers. Thanx for lookin’, B.

I haven't ordered from them so I can't comment on quality and delivery, but Escort Resin ( http://my.inbox.com/photos/escort500xl/index.aspx ) sell a repop of the AMT 25T Double Kit cycle fenders. Got to the section called "The Parts Box" and click on photo 21.