jevries

The gunmetal speck spraycan cap worked better than the black but a grey resin cast item I polished with Kosutte didn't do the trick....it just became a shiny grey. Metallic silver became also yellowish. The thing is that the coating is really, really thin and even multiple treatments doesn't make the part anymore chrome looking. I'm pretty positive that if your looking for real chrome this doesn't do the job for you so I wouldn't even bother spending $24 on it. This stuff is being sold for at least 10 years now and if it was that great than many model builders would have known about it. I have a metallic blue spray can and will give it a try tomorrow and post the results.

Pretty much impossible to use for window trim...it's messy stuff. Def stick to BMF or similar product like this stuff from Hasegawa: It's a ultra thin pvc like chrome plastic and it looks stunning although I must admit it's harder to work with than regular BMF. The BMF on the right is made by Goodsmile Racing and is trully excellent and better than the BMF I know. I've heard there's an new improved BMF that's almost similar to this stuff though. :lol:

Alclad seems to have the better tint more silvery. Kosutte has the best shine period. Here a bunch of sample pics: The fingerprint test: I must say it holds better than alclad plus you can use a tiny bit of powder and polish it again. Tint comparison outside: Applied to a more difficult black styrene part. As you can see if the part isn't absolutely polished it get's a bit of a dull look. The best silver chrome tint you get using white plastic base BUT...you get a nasty side effect a yellowish tint looking at from different angles. Unuseable. Hope this helps you guys out deciding what works best. As said before I stick to shipping my stuff out to have it chromed. :lol:

I def like all these big '70 Chevy's! Great job on restoring that model.

That's basicaly what it is. It feels a bit waxy and it sticks like hell even on your hands it's hard to remove almost like it's magnetic but it isn't.

Hi guys, 85Biaritz pointed me out to this Kosutte Gin San discussion and here's my conclusion. I bought Kosutte Ginsan last year when I was in Japan after seeing comparisson pictures with Alclad and others. The Pro's: - Very easy to apply even more intricate parts can be done although buffing is much harder. - Pretty much the best shine possible depending on your (black) surface - If there are any fingerprints on your chromed parts it's pretty easy to apply some more powder and polish. The Con's: - It's not looking like regular chrome, it's more of a gunmetal chrome, read darker tone. - It's sensitive to touching just like Alclad - Can't be coated with a clearcoat because it get's dull. All and all a nice product with the best shine out there but I'm sorry it just doesn't look like regular chrome. Looking at your chromed part on the top, like on the spraycan cap I used, it looks like real chrome but as soon as you move the part you will notice it's no chrome. I tried several different basecoats to accomplish the right effect but no luck. To be honest I'm not going to use this product since I'm looking for the best chrome possible and that's achieved by sending my parts out to the chromer. B) Here's a bunch of pics to show you how it shines and the comparisson with regular chromed parts and a small piece of pvc chrome tape.

Cool to see these kinds of mods on diecast models.

Nice color!!

ART is the word to describe this work.

TIGHT!!!

Thanx for your replies. The leds I use are not suitable for police car lights although leds for that use can be found and hooked up with no need for extra electronics.

It's been a while since I posted something on this forum mainly because lack of time. I've been working on lot's of stuff last year which I want to show you guys. The 1/24 scale J-Sonic Color Bar is one of those creations that just happened and it's lot's of fun creating em. Color Bars where highly popular in the 50's and 60's and they still are. The initial idea was to make it actual work to the sound of music but it proved to be very impratical having a cable run from the model car to a MP3 player. I decided to go for simulating the effect by using color changing leds using and the back of a servo to create the housing. Since the housing didn't look like the real thing I scratchbuild a housing using styrene and used a cut paperclip for the knob. First version: Here's the second version I did with the knob/ dial. I still wasn't happy with the result and grinded the leds down to the max creating a new smaller housing. This is the final version and I really like it! I'm gonna use them for my future builds to create a cool atmosphere inside the car. More stuff soon.

Indeed it's a pretty common ride in the US and there's even not a single 1/18 diecast version...beats me.

Nice!! Really well made!

X2!!

I always love this kinda work with working elements! Great job!!

Thanks guys!! Story and pics will follow soon!

Hi guys! First of all: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!! I finally released the official video of Real Deal '64. It's a 1/24 1964 Chevy Impala lowrider model, highly detailed with working suspension all radio controled. Ryan from Scale Lows did the detailing and paintjob and I build the working suspension setup. Here's a pic: The video clip is short but action packed and I hope you enjoy it! JEVRIES.COM

Thats sick! I really love this mechnical miniature stuff! :wink: