Dennis Lacy

Actually, the only one I've ever set up in this manner with a bracket above the frame is on the '27 T Roadster I built for myself 10 years ago. But, I've seen lots of examples over the years. You just have to make sure the bracket is stout enough. Here's an example on my friend Frank Barone's '29 Roadster. Talk about a car that's been riden HARD! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

I use Zap-A-Gap primarily and anymore I will only buy the smallest bottle. Anything more is a waste of money because the stuff goes bad faster than I can use it. I have found that once opened I can get about 4-6 months of satisfactory use before there is a noticeable decline in performance. I usually find out the stuff has gone bad when it's most inconvenient, too. There's few things more satisfying to a model builder than a brand new, freshly opened bottle of CA.

We can always expect to see a great hot rod from you, Tom! The color choices are fantastic and the Radir wheels & slicks are the perfect choice.Very, very 60's.

UPDATE! Exhaust system is essentially made. This can sometimes be a tedious pain in the ass but this time proved to not be so bad once I figured out a plan of attack. (Coming up with the plan took twice as long as actually making the pipes!) The complete pipes and mufflers are made of sections from the Revell '48 Custom Coupe exhaust. The pipes were shortened and the shape tweaked where they go through the front legs of the X member and attach to the headers. Sections were removed between the hanger brackets just beyond the mufflers and tailpipes to move the pipes forward to where they would snake around the axle, spring and cross member. The only thing I didn't get to was cutting the tails down because the dinner bell was ringing. To make room for the mufflers I removed the short cross pieces from the center X member. Most of the time in the real world when these later X's are installed in early frames these pieces are left out anyway. Also, while I was at the back of the frame I cut off and smoothed out where those goofy raised axle locating tabs were. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Up front I tackled setting up the steering and shocks. For the steering I added a bracket to the top of the frame rail (something that was and is sometimes done in the real world.) This allows the steering gear to sit up and clear of the headers and also allows the steering pitman arm to hang down without getting fouled on the split wishbone. I also made a traditional hairpin style steering arm at the axle out of one of the front upper A-arms from the Revell '37 street rod kits. The pitman arm / drag link are from the old Monogram '30 Woody. The steering box is a modified Revell '40 Ford. The lever shocks are from the Ed Roth Tweedy Pie T. I did nothing to them other than insert some mounting pins and drilling corresponding holes in the frame. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki It's getting there. To wrap up the chassis setup I need to finish the tail pipes and install rear shocks then do an all around fine tuning and clean up.

Nice work on the lid, Tim! Gotta admit, I'm really surprised we haven't seen a string of these posted up by you yet. You were cranking them out left and right when the roadster kit hit the shelves.

Not to mention you can find multiple copies of the Monogram kit on Ebay any day of the week. Just bring money! This is what I did with mine a couple of years back. Hosted on Fotki I honestly don't have the desire to buy any more of this kit because I have no interest in a stock Model A and there's not any good kit bashing fodder in it so to me all the kit is good for is a body and maybe the frame. I'd rather stock up on the new Revell kit and have lots of hot rod parts to pilfer.

When I was about 7 years old (would have been in '87) my Dad unboxed, cleaned up and set out on display some model hot rods he had built in the 60's. I thought they were some of the neatest things I had ever seen so one weekend not long after he presented me with an AMT '63 Corvette kit and one of Testors basic "get started" sets of glue, paint and brushes. We did all of the necessary painting on a Saturday and did assembly on Sunday. He did a lot of the work but I definitely helped. From there I was hooked and continued to build model cars through my teens but boxed it all up as I moved on to other things full-time like real cars, beer and females. All of the sudden when I was 27 (would have been '07) I woke up one morning and had this burning desire to mess with models again. Got on-line and discovered the magazines had forums and was blown away by not only what people were doing but by how incredibly accessible the internet has made modeling. No more waiting 2 months for a magazine to arrive, now I could interact directly with the builders of the models I liked. From there I went on a kit buying spree, re accumulating every old hot rod kit I had known and loved. By early '08 the pile was about 60 kits thick so I decided it was time to have at it. It's funny, too, because my Dad is directly responsible for my interest in the hobby but he thinks it's silly and a waste of time (and money) that I started back in as an adult. He implies that building model cars is a kid thing. Ironically, when I expressed a short revival of interest in N-scale model railroading about two years back (and got my childhood 3x5 layout out and working again) he thought that was just great. That revival was short lived after I became aware of how stupid expensive model railroading has become!

Thanks, Glenn! The tall coupe show rod it started out to be was looking neat but then I started playing with bodies, the ideas started flowing and,,, here we are! Guys on here seemed to like it but what I didn't expect was to have some people bring that buried thread back to life asking about progress (obviously unaware of the change.) I was looking back at pictures of it and now I'm starting to think I should work up another chassis and get back on it, with some tweaks here and there. It's funny, when I look at the models I build now and then go look back and look at models I built in my first couple of years back into the hobby 7-8 years ago it's like looking at someone else's work. Which, to me, is a good thing! That purple '32 was actually the first model I built getting back into it after a near 10 year gap. It definitely has its flaws but I was pleased with the "look" I achieved with it, especially considering it's an AMT '32.

Thanks, Glenn! I haven't seen you comment on my models in a while, I thought maybe I offended you! LOL

A Cadillac intake manifold looks nothing like a Chevy small block but Bill already addressed that. Also, the carburetors in that Parts Pak engine are mid-30's Stromberg whereas the carburetors on the AG car are Rochester 2GC. I think Greg's suggestion above about starting with a Chevy fuel injection bed plate would be the best starting point for the guy who has nothing (unless it turns out that the 67 Camaro intake is available in the aftermarket.) The layout geometry of the 4 plenum flanges is very similar to the Man-A-Fre and with a little rework of the flanges to mount carburetors could be quite convincing.

Thank you, everyone, for your kind comments. This is one of my favorite models I've ever built. It definitely exceeded my expectations for "look" and "style".

Thanks, David! The late 30s Ford transmission was cut off the Dodge Hemi in Amt's 29 Roadster.

Thanks, Bill! Fitting later center X's to early frames is a timeless practice. I also appreciate the vote of confidence. The proportions are pretty much what they're gonna be and I'm pleased.

Anything's possible. In this case, it's not what I want. Although this front end arrangement was done in the 40's it wasn't wasn't very common and not a look that most people liked. I wanted to challenge myself to build a good looking car despite it.

Roadster Progress: Combed through my bin of Flathead hop-up parts and figured out the engine setup. Again, block & front cover from Revell '40 Ford's. Edelbrock heads from Revell '40 Ford's. Intake manifold from AMT '34 5-Window (stock version, which includes some Flathead speed parts.) Pair of carburetors from Revell Ed Roth Tweedy Pie. Crankcase breather scoop from Revell '37 Pickup (which fits perfect into the little firewall recess!) Headers from Revell '48 Coupe. Stock '48 belt drive from Revell '48 Convertible. Hosted on Fotki Did the initial setup on the front axle which, along with the spring and tierod, comes from Revell '40 Ford's. Cut off the molded wishbone and replaced with a pair of split wishbones from the new Revell '29 Roadster. Made my own frame mounts. Still need to add shocks and steering. Also fit up Revell '48 Ford brake plates front and rear. Hosted on Fotki Started working on some interior upgrades. I cut the upper rail away from the '29 dashboard then grafted it to a narrowed '37 Pickup dashboard. Not shown (because it wouldn't stay in place) there will also be a '48 column shift with '37 Pickup wheel. The rest of the interior will be out of the '29 box. Hosted on Fotki Here's some new full mock ups. I decided to ditch the '34 Pickup grill (because, lets face it, it really didn't look good) and put on a Revell '32 with the sides notched to bring it down to the correct height. I also got the front wheels fit flush into the tires and widened the inner rear wheels to take up the space in the wide tires. 8-| Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

I ended up ditching the Tall T body and Chevy engine for a T Roadster body and Hemi. The model is now finished (as of a couple of days ago) and can be seen here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/116627-27-t-retro-dragstrip-roadster/

Thanks, Tim! Just to be clear, the angle of the '48 radius rods doesn't ordinarily match the angle of the rear "legs" of the '40 X. Only in this case because the angle of the rear "legs" of the X has been altered to fit this frame.

Absolutely. A necessary modification any time a later model grill is used on a 29.

I've been having ideas floating in my head for this roadster project for several months now and I felt like it was time to actually start building it. I've been doing a lot of 50's and 60's styled rods and drag racers so I want to get back to my 40's roots with this one. Starting with the new Revell body and frame. I filled in all of the various notches in the frame rails then fitted in the center X and rear cross member from a Revell '40 Ford frame. The engine block & transmission are also from a Revell '40 with home made front brackets. The rear axle and spring are from the Revell '48 Ford's. I would like to say I planned it this way but the fact that the rear legs of the center X and rear axle radius rods are on identical angles is purely coincidental. But, it's a very happy accident! For the front axle set up I'm going to go less conventional and use the dropped front axle and spring from the Revell '40 Ford hot rods. In this arrangement the spring is mounted in front of the axle (Ford started this in 1935 and continued it through 1948) which helps get the whole thing low. One of the drawbacks to doing this is that it shortens the wheelbase by several inches. However, with the somewhat stretched frame (and resulting extra length in front of the cowl) in this new Revell kit the proportions don't get as wonky as it would on a stock '32 frame. There were definitely a handful of documented West Coast cars built back in the 40's with this style of front end but it seems to be largely an East Coast thing. Wheels are from Revell's '37 Pickup and Panel trucks. Rear tires are from the '29 Roadster kit and front tires are from the Ed Roth Beatnik Bandit. Another less conventional move, I'm thinking about using the '34 Pickup grill. There were a few Model A roadster built back in the old days with these grills and they didn't look half bad (or maybe they only looked half good?) Kind of a "poor guys" '32 grill. One of the reasons I'm thinking of using this grill is that due to the fact it leans back it won't appear to be as far forward of the front axle center line as a vertical grill would. It will help shorten the overly long distance from the grill top to cowl top giving much more favorable "hood" proportions, even without a hood. The angle of the grill also compliments the angled body line where the cowl and doors meet, as well as the angle of the windshield. So, here's a handful of pictures of what I've done so far. Comments welcome! Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

'27 T Retro Dragstrip Roadster Altered States Models '27 T Roadster body. Door line and stock firewall detail removed. Home made firewall from .040" sheet. Chopped and open radiator shell from AMT '23 T competition body parts pack. Partial belly pan cut down from Revell Orange Crate. AMT '25 T hot rod frame with roll bar, seat, center steering box and butterfly wheel from AMT '23 T competition body parts pack. Frame Z'd higher at rear and front spring perch raised. AMT Double Dragster "Moon" gas pedal, tachometer and hand brake handle. Hand pressure pump from Revell Kurtis Midgets. Moon fuel tank from Revell '32 5-Window. Gauge face decals from Ed Roth Tweedy Pie T. Front axle, hairpin rods and tierod from Revell '32 5-Window with scratch-bashed hoop steering arm and home made drag link rod. Revell '29 Pickup lever shocks. AMT '25 T Halibrand quick change rear axle, spring and shocks. Home made spring/shock brackets on axle tubes. Revell '40 Ford ladder bars. Monogram Blue Bandito brake plates. Monogram Slingster dragster 12-spoke front wheels & tires. Monogram Blue Bandito 5-spoke rear wheels & slicks. Monogram Slingster Hemi engine block, heads, valve covers, timing cover and modified zoomie headers. Parts bin log intake, Ed Roth Tweedy Pie T carburetors and home made fuel blocks with hoses. Modified finned valley cover and breather tube from Revell '32 5-Window Hemi. Spalding Flamethrower distributor from Revell Pontiac engine parts pack, drilled & wired. AMT '32 Vicky "Dual Coil". Early Ford 3-speed trans and center cross member from AMT '29 Roadster optional Dodge Red Ram. Home made drive shaft. Tamiya TS55 Dark Blue on body. All decals from recent retro reissue of AMT '32 Vicky. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

Update! A few weeks ago I got everything painted and over this past weekend I managed to get about halfway through final assembly. Hoping to get it finished over the coming holiday weekend. Here's some sub-assembly pictures and a mock up. I ended up changing the decal scheme just before paint after I scored the sheet from AMT's recent retro reissue of the '32 Vicky off of eBay for $3.50. Color is actually very dark blue. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

The new mock up looks fantastic, Bill. Nice work on the frame!

Fantastic work, Chris! Now that I've seen your modified roof version I can't not see the inaccuracies when I scroll up to earlier pictures of the project. This is going to make for a situation where once finished if your model is sitting next to someone elses built from this kit yours is going to look a lot more "right" but leave people wondering why.

Very neat project idea, Bernard. It's interesting because with all of the traditional and neo-traditional hot rods being built these days to try and emulate or relive the past the high bolster look isn't done a whole lot. I think it may have to do with that it excludes the use of a top. Almost everybody I know with a roadster has a chopped and stylized up-top which, I think, is ironic because it defeats the purpose of having an open car. Before I sold my T roadster my ultimate plan was to paint the car shiny one day and have a built-in seat with a bolster that wrapped over the top and sides of the body where the wood tack strip would have normally been.

Great start and color choice!