whale392

HooRah. Hope dad likes it; I know I would if my boy bought it for me.

So after 3 months of the back-and-forth with 'facts' thing ended, you have to come in here, Romell, spit your 'holier than thou' drivel, and then insult us with the question of 'knowing what end of the torque wrench' to use? The Marines must have messed with your head. I did try to PM you about this, but thanks to this sites constant server issues, it never made it. You want to go toe-to-toe with me about the mechanics aspect, we can do it in PM to preserve Andys thread. Don't you have a build going in at least 2 different sections of this forum (for maximum 'look at me' factor) you need to be worrying about? Andy, the 'Plum Crazy' will look good on the A-body. Let us know when it gets her shiny coat! (Happy Birthday by the way)

Looking REAL good so far Jared!

I would like to see the pics, Tony; I believe the SVO was one of the most under-rated cars for its time and didn't get the love it deserved. The extra $5000 that it cost over the GT might have had something to do with that though. I see my red kits have the same problems (as a matter of fact, one of them is what led me to look hard at the new white kit) and will be dealt with in time. Right now, I am correcting the rear spoiler issue as well.

Well, not dealing with him directly, I cannot judge either his personality or casting perfection. With that said.......... I am a FOX Mustang kind of guy, and to boldly state that he markets the only 'CORRECT' Mustang LX Coupe body out there is a big target to hold up. Now, I am not the only one who will make these same observations (based on extensive knowledge of the real subject); Dons LX is not correct. Up to this time, it is the most correct offering available for the 1987-93 crowd, but it is by no means correct. I can easily pick out 4 things that are not right now, one of them gets a hall pass when the roof gets hacked for the 'vert (but that brings its' own issues to the table). Anyway, the only gripe I might have with Don is his 'Boldness', even in the face of those who point out things to make his product 'more correct'.

I love the 87-88 style 'Birds (especially the Turbocoupes!). Yours looks great for 'some bits missing'!

Pegasus offers 19" and 23" sleeves. If you are going 26", why not score a set of the rims in the Revell UPTOWN series kits, or some of their DONK offerings and (if need be) shell them and glue the wheel center you want into them?

Block will be either Semi-Gloss Black (or Light Gray, depending on year and application), oil pan will be the same as the block, head will be left natural Cast Iron, exhaust manifold will be rusted Iron or burnt metal, Valve cover will be Aluminum (most guys re-shoot it either Gloss Black or a contrasting color and polish out the fins/logo), intake manifold (both upper and lower) is a natural sand-cast Aluminum. Turbo (being an IHI-Werner T3 .60-.48) compressor side will be Aluminum, with the center Cast Iron, and the turbine housing/wastegate/downpipe housing being rusted Iron to burnt metal. Distributor cap was usually the Gray FORD unit, wires either Gray or Black, and the front dress cover that Eggshell/Plasic Black color. Pullies were Gloss or Semi-Gloss Black.

Tony, We did have E-check here about 7 years ago. However, believe it or not, the county found it too expensive to continue running the program and cancelled it on one of its' budget cut rounds. Not that I am too worried, as even if they do bring it back, every modification I do to the car gets the computer re-tuned (if that mod would effect the Air/fuel ratio the car runs at) so that it stays within spec. Now, that being said, all of my brake and suspension mods don't add up to 'Carbon Footprinting' like engine mods would. I will be running engine mods, but the mods I do, coupled with judicious timing and fuel re-mapping (coupled with my compression ratio bump-up), will actually help it to burn a little cleaner with more power. Will I be leaving some power on the table to the EnviorNazis? Yes, but not much. I am working on about 40 different FOXes at the moment (some are merely mock-up idea phases). I am currently working on the Revell re-issue of the 85.5 SVO. I will try to get some pics up. You have seen some if you have cruised back through this thread, but MANY more hide in dark places! FOR THOSE WORKING ON THE REVELL/MONOGRAM SVO: be advised that the nose cap will have to be narrowed .100" to get it to fit correctly AND look correct. You will want to take .050" out of the lower nose outboard of the fog lights on each side, and take .050" out under the headlights on the upper nose each side. Cut between the fog light section to the headlight section parallel to the body molding (on its' lower edge) on each side. With the .050" sections removed, clean up your cut lines and glue the nose cap back together. Sounds like a PITA, and it is. BUT, this is the only way to get the nose cap to sit correctly on the model, and to have the hood line up properly fender-gap wise. Cover it all in a thin coat of your favorite body-filler, sand smooth, seal and primer. This is just one of the areas that needs to be addressed on the SVO kit. I will post more later if anyone wants to know what to look out for when building this kit.

I too have hit up 4 different Wally-Worlds and have had ZERO luck. I am not even a Taurus fan, but the new body style just has something I like to it, and this model (yes, I know it is a die-cast) just calls to me for some reason! Beautiful job on the super-detailing of this, took an already good base and went to another level with it.

Yeah, I think the boys need a rest after blazing through the spring, getting their rides ready for the upcoming summer cruising season! Hope they have a case of their favorite beverage handy, as cleaning up the garage might take a little elbow grease after all of the work they put in! (on a side note, I have been busy working on my 1:1 1991GT, trying to get the new round of mods into it for this summers season. She is still ugly and slow, but with the new suspension and brakes it will handle and stop better than a 'Vette) Just for the heck of it, I ought to see if I can round up all of my FOX projects (scale that is, not 1:1) and get them all together for a family picture!

Good looking snake, Harold. First of the 4.6L DOHC powerplants and an all-around nice car.

Color looks great, and the 05+ Bullitts work with the car. I see the supercharger came from the 'Super Stallion' kit. Looks good overall; I will have to pick up a can of that color for later use! As to Justins comment, the Cobra wasn't produced in 2002 as they didn't see the need, as the 2003-04 'Terminator' Cobra plans had been leaked and figured the sales of the '02 model would be abysmal (who wants a 320hp N/A car when a 395hp Supercharged car is only one more year away).

Tony, those are looking GREAT! Both of those guys need to be proud of their rides!

I don't know how well the pickup bed will go with everything so far, but as of right now I REALLY like this.

Mine accompanies me to the club meetings and has been to a few of the shows with the club/with me. She has her own small stash (doomed to never be completed....she follows in my footsteps) and will look around when we go to a Hobby Shop. She doesn't get into it like I do, but she has her own O.C.D stuff to flitter with!

When I switched mine to the 'updated' IE9, I lost the ability to see all of the icons and prompts. Sometimes it won't even load pics. I am using Google Chrome now, and it works fine for that, but has its' own issues. One of the BIGGEST things I have encountered so far (both using Chrome and IE) is the 'SQL server fail' message and inability to continue with what I have typed. It happens constantly here, and many of my responses have not gone through due to it. I type slow, and just decided to not re-try versus trying to type it all out again only to have the SQL server fail deny me a second, third, fourth time.

I use our dryer at work. it has fan and temp control from 50* all the way to 400* (we cure resins and carbon/composite laminates). I set the body in there and let it dry all shift (10 hours) at anywhere between 100*-105* and have had good luck. My Hot Wheels bodies.......I have had those to 150*, and let me tell you that Testors brand paints become silly smooth and shiny when dried at that temp for that long on a die-cast!

Dang, what a cool friend to let his neighbors park their rides in his garage! Looking good Tony; both Mustangs, the D50, and the garage!

Jim, while the SBC into a Skyline is beyond me (not comprehending, just in 1:1 doing), I think you did a killer job of pulling off a 'what-if' scenario. I like the color, and the overall look of the car. You have been beaten up pretty bad on the heater hose thing already and I can see how it would happen as you don't usually build RHD cars. Overall, a good build. George53........nevermind. I removed what I had stated as all it would do is get me banned.

Supra AND RX-7 widebodies. Like the Supra; the RX-7..........the 'widebody' looks good, along with the paint.

Sounds like a fair plan! I am converting one of the Revell 56 Nomads into a 4 door 210 wagon myself, using some scratch-building and some 56 Del Ray sedan parts thrown in. The real car is a somewhat-rat on 20" front/23" rear 5 spoke wheels sitting on airbags.

The only experience I have with R&R is from almost 20 years ago. Then, the product quality was very good, and he was easily reached by phone. With that said, seems to be (from reading others experiences here) that is not the case anymore (both quality and service-wise). Others will chime in I am sure.

Joseph, If your local shop didn't have it but carries the Testors line, they can order it. Wimbeldon White (1964 paint code 8378) in Model Masters Custom Laquer System line, paint #28132 (UPC code 75611 28132).

Might I suggest talking to Kris Morgan, Shucky, or Casey as to what they use/how they do their resin casting? So far, they are 3 of the best, cleanest, and friendliest casters I have had the pleasure of conversing with/purchasing from.