whale392

Easy-Off Oven Cleaner (yellow can). If you want it completely stripped, this will do it.

Very nice build! I don't know if you watch Anime or not, but in the later stages of the series, Ky Takahashi drives a Carbon Aero version of the FD3S (Initial D). After the wreck, he rebuilds it into a Z-tune widebody. Just a question, what did you do with the wheels originally in this kit?

Somehow, I think this could/should be stickied in either the Drag Race or Tips section, as the material presented here is of great value to those who build these vintage funny cars. Thank you for sharing this!

Michael, Thanks for answering me. I didn't mean anything bad or insulting by asking, I really did want to know. Every year, I have to have a full eye exam (to include color differentiation evaluation) as part of keeping all of my NDT qualifications. When I was in service, I could tell you the difference between an F-14, F-18, EA-6B, S-3A, and an E-2C at over a mile in the dark of night. I could not imagine the trouble being partially color-blind would cause me, and truly feel for your predicament. The fender looks great with what you have done to it weathering-wise, and was what I thought you were trying to get to. Keep at it, soon it will be cluttering up the road with parts that really weren't needed anyway falling off!

Wow, Primus, Ministry, and Mustangs all in one thread...............monkey likes! Now all we need is some Cake to finish it off and we are all good On a serious note; the Mustang looks good Mark! I need to get off my behind and finish some of mine.

I do have a serious question for you: what drove your choice for the Olive Drab Green fender? In all seriousness and in keeping with the 'salvage yard parts' theme here, wouldn't it have been more prudent to use a color that the factory actually used on the panel in question? With that said, you can actually use that as a base for weathering/shading/fading different shades/tones of green to give it a used/abused look. I can understand the primer, as every rust-bucket-to-show-queen has worn several different shades of primer at one time. I believe you will eventually get somewhere near what you were shooting for, so don't give up. I agree, give us a look at the interior with your comments on what you are not happy with and WHY you are not happy with it. Knowing what you were aiming for and why you are not happy will give us a lot to work with and better be able to guide you in the right direction.

It's all good, glad to see you enjoying the hobby and liking your build. Patience is key to good building (good reference material helps too). Personal opinion here (so take it for what it is worth), I think you did a good job on this kit, and will only get better with every new build. Listen, learn, and apply what you gather and you will be amazed at how you will improve.

Well Andre, I believe that Esslinger Engineering and one other company (that I cannot remember the name of at this moment) were working with Ford to develop an Aluminum block for the Lima 2.3/2.5 market and aim it at the ARCA guys (Esslinger already made a couple aluminum heads for the 2.3, one specifically for ARCA racing), so painting your block aluminum and calling it a 'Ford Special Project' wouldn't be too far out there. They also had a functioning DOHC aluminum cylinder head slated for the 1987 SVO Mustang, but both projects were cancelled due in part to budgeting and overall lack of public interest in the SVO as a whole.

The only real glaring thing I see is that the third brake light is painted over (in the center of the trunklid above/between the tail lights). overall, a good effort on this kit. Underhood detail could be refined a little, but that will come from getting to know the real cars components. Polish/wax will make the color stand out for sure. All in all, good build. (It helps that the GenIV Supra is one of my favorite import sport-luxury cars)

Del, what year is yours? The 86 Merkur XR4Ti I yanked the engine from had a Grey block and pan, with a natural finish valve cover. My 1984 GT Turbo Mustang had the Black block and pan with the Satin Black valve cover (with brushed fins). I guess I should have stated that the fins were aluminum color versus valve cover colored (hence, my polished reference). Both of them had the Ford Grey distributor cap, but one had the Grey wires and the other had the black wires (don't ask me now as both are apart for freshening up. The Merkur motor is going Volvo DOHC conversion). I had an 87 TurboCoupe motor laying around too, and it was Black block/pan with the Satin Black/brushed valve cover. Blue cap with grey wires(both were replaced with Ford units at some time). As to the relevance of this info to the original poster; I believe we were both too late as the engine was together before we both posted our info. I have found both turboford.net and N.A.T.O (North American TurboCoupe Owners) sites to be very helpful with these 2.3Ts, as well as foureyedpride.com!

Getting closer to finished. What will the overall look be, slightly used or freshly painted (considering your $200.00 'Pass Time' entrant reference earlier)?

, , , Not done (started in 1998 when I lived in the Navy barracks in Norfolk, Va.), but it is a drag car.

That looks superb, Mark. Clean and well executed for any scale, let alone 1/43rd.

One thing of note: the re-issue kits decal sheet does not contain the tailfin graphics of the 'Road Runner Superbird' as (conjecture and speculation here) R-M does not hold the License to Warner Brothers characters anymore. Of course, the tires are no-name repops of the original kit tires (or at least close enough to the originals tires anyway). The decal sheet has the numbers 6 and 7 (according to the instructions to be used together), the '426 C.I.D' hood placards, and some contingiency decals, along with the 'Plymouth' flank decals in white or black, the 440+6 air cleaner decal, the Road Runner trunk lid 'chrome letter' decal, and some other minor decals.

Like I wrote Nick, I am not bashing you as it was a knowledge based question. do yourself (and us) a favor and get over your butt-hurtness of me 'singling you out'. I even provided the answer so that you might learn something for future use....but I see you are still the same as you have been. I even went to the extent of justifying not knowing in scale. Now all we need is for you to cry to Harry about being picked on and we will have it all. To the original poster; you can call it whatever engine you would like from the 'B' and 'RB' family. The only real visual clue would be the air cleaner (and the early 'B' engines only having 4 valve cover bolts while later 'B' and 'RB' engines had 6) and the exhaust for the given specific application (read: 413 Sonoramic Commando and the 426 Wedge stages).

The 426 Wedge was canceled mid-64 (for passenger car use), not up to 1966. C-bodies got the 440 in 1966, with the B-Bodies following in 1967. Nick, at this scale, how can you tell a 350 Mopar from a 440? They are all big-blocks (wedges at that), so how do you tell? Can you tell me how in 1:1? (I am not bashing on Nick here, but if he is going to make a knowledge-based comment, he better have the knowledge to back it up). I'll give you a hint, 1958-only 350, 361, 383 (non-RB), and 400cid engines were 'B'-series with no boss on the drivers side front top of the block (across the front depression from the distributor). The 383RB, 413, 426 wedge (and for that matter, the Hemi block.....but it also had crossbolted #2,3,& 4 mains, extra head bolt locators, and pushrod cut-outs), and 440 were RB-series blocks (Raised-Big), and had 1): taller front and rear intake mounting flanges, 2): had the boss on the drivers side across from the distributor. Now, as Dodge industrial trucks had a variation of either the 'B' and 'RB' engines (quite often with their own cid), I cannot speak for them and the years available.

Always liked the Bugeye Sprites.

Dropkick Murphys and Flogging Molly are two of my favorite bands (I have seen Flogging Molly live a dozen times so far). Have fun at the concert!

came out looking good, Rick!

Paint boo-boos happen, and can be dealt with. No real worries on the rear bumper. Tail light panel looks good. Wheel/tire choice is a personal opinion, and therefore is yours (some may like them while others do not). What color will the interior be?

The SVO is looking 'Dark as Death!', and the MPC slot car is sweet!

Sign me up for class!

Yes Shane, a pin vice and bit set is what I am referring to. Wonderful handy tools to have about.

This is superb scratchbuilding and detailing skill. The '7' looks great, Mark.

The ride height will have to be adjusted, as it sits way too high out of the box. It will build up into a fair shelf model, but requires A LOT of modification to accurately represent an SVO for show/contest purposes.